The Jenny (Craig) Chronicles -AKA DOOM

[RobNoLimit]

It's time for another one. The Roach is about to go together for the last time, Tina's Mustang is getting well sorted out, and the HellBoy and Velocity are going through some winter tune-ups. so, it looks like I may as well load up my plate with a new build. I have wanted to do a Cobra since as far back as I can remember. Honestly, after driving a few Cobras in the '90's, I kinda lost interest. They really didn't live up to my expectations. Lately, seeing Bruce's OG Cobra on track has re-kindled the idea. Then, as fate would have it, a B.S. session with Mike Maier a year and a half ago put the bug back in. "we've got a body up in the rafters..." he says, "..my dad used to make them. We still have the last one he made. You wanna buy it? - we're cleaning up the shop." OK, so we were getting ready to move, and I had no time to drive up to Hayward to go get it. "... no problem, my dad has this old guy that hangs out at the shop, he'll bring it down for the gas money". So, that's how I got a Cobra body. It already has history. The last Cobra body to come from Maier Racing. We put it in a container to Tennessee, and it's been up in the rafters since. Until a few weeks ago, when I got it down.

Here's what I've learned about Cobras. The wheelbase is appx 93", pretty short. The rear tread width space avail is close to 68", and the front is around 63". What? Yes, a 5" difference between front and rear track width. Hmm, no wonder they have a tendency to 'push' going into a corner and the 'snap loose' in the middle and exit. Gonna have to look into a fix for that. I have a big list of goals for the car, and at the moment the only real bummer is the 'no kit car' rule in the USCA, but maybe they will address that this winter, If the car turns out how I think it will, it will be a great competitor at the OUSCI.

Some basic build plans : Light Weight. Square track. IRS. Smart build, updated styling and safety. Simple enough, stay tuned

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Probably my favourite car of all time so I will be following along. What is square track? Same WMS front and rear and square set up for wheels?

[LS7 Z/28]

Looks like a lot of fun Rob. Looking forward to watching it come together.

[bmbrzmn101]

liking the approach to one of my favorite cars. Looking forward to more!

Chris

[wfo guy]

I'll be watching. Years ago, I was going to build one. I found many downsides so I moved on to something else. Is your goal just an autocrosser or an all around fast car?

[RobNoLimit]

Thanks guys. Yes Peter, I would like to run the same wheel/tire/offset on all four corners, with the same tread width (or very close) front and rear. But, I don't want an overly "wide' car, as I already have that in the truck. WFO, We probably noted many of the same downsides, I had moved on from the Cobra as well, but now I've come around full circle. I really think i can build a nice functioning car from this platform. - All around fast and fun.

The wheels in the pict are off of the Roach Camaro, not for Jenny here. If you want some interesting 'enginerding' IRS info, check this out from my old Alma-matter http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1021&context=mesp it's cool to see this progress, I worked with some of these instructors in the early '80's (damn that hurts to say)

[RobNoLimit]

My first project on a list of many was to figure out just what a Cobra is supposed to be. Or, what this one is. After much measuring and head scratching I finally made some decisions. #1, This body is not perfect. It was after all a race body, so I'll just roll on. #2, I will have to cut it apart and and do some glass work. - not my favorite thing to do, but, if I am to get what I want out of the car, it has to be done. and #3, At some point you have to stop staring at it and get to work. So, step one was to fab up a cart for the Cobra to sit on. I built the cart as square as I could, it measures out with a laser level to be +/- .030", close enough for me. The crossmembers in the base are set the front and rear body edges ('new') the front and rear axle C.L. ('new'), one under the engine center, one under the trans center, and one under the seat area. The cart is 48" I.D. and 56" O.D., so hub mounting uprights will have to be spaced outboard. To set the body on square, I struggled with this a bit, I came to the conclusion that the headlight and tail light centers were as good a place as any. After plotting out the centers, I drilled them out to 1/4" and put in some stands to hold the body square. I also set the mid section ride height at 4 1/2" with some cut blocks, When finished, the scrub line is to be 4".

[19,69camaro]

Just an idea you can take it or leave it but if you cut a line right down the middle and added 3 or 4 inches you could effectively make it a wide body without having to do a crazy amount of fiberglass work. It would have more of a square stance like the GTD z4's http://www.turnermotorsport.com/race-cars.aspx. Also more enging bay room for those big ass Coyote motors

[RobNoLimit]

Just an idea you can take it or leave it but if you cut a line right down the middle and added 3 or 4 inches you could effectively make it a wide body without having to do a crazy amount of fiberglass work. It would have more of a square stance like the GTD z4's http://www.turnermotorsport.com/race-cars.aspx. Also more enging bay room for those big ass Coyote motors

Nice! widening and Coyote power are on the table. Today may be the day she goes under the knife. Just a little plastic surgery, a nip here, a tuck the, a few more cc's here and there.....

[RobNoLimit]

One of my reasons for wanting to go with an IRS, is the total reduction of un-sprung weight. The total weight may be equal to or slightly more than a solid axle, and the suspension build is more complex, but the reduction in un-sprung weight is the the goal that wins out. I looked at all of the common units. Vette, Nissan, Mustang, BMW, and a few odd-balls that didn't make the grade. I need a WMS width of 60 1/2", and all of the units I studied are wider. Some can be narrowed, and some are more difficult. Those got the early axe. Then there is the expense, and lack of aftermarket support, gears, posi's.... Again, some got the axe. I t really came down to Vette of Ford (and I don't really mean the Cobra Mustang IRS). In the end I chose the Ford mix/match plan for several reasons. Then the E-bay and Craigslist search starts. Once I had a few parts to play with I could do some mock up and move forward.

Ford put IRS units in Mustang Cobra's, T-Birds, Lincolns, Crown Vic's and Explorers. Some shared parts and some were vehicle specific. I keep having to remind myself of the weight and HP targets to keep things in range, I don't really need an axle or gear set built for 600 hp in a 3500 lb car. I found some differences in the 8.8 cases. The 'car' case has two front mounts, and a goofy rear case mount off the back of the diff cover. The Explorer case has a nice two point mount on the back cover, but only a single mount on the front of the case. I rounded up one of each, and some other spare parts, and this is what I came up with. I used the 'car' front case, and the Explorer rear cover. This will give me four mounting points that are easy to plot out. I also got some half shafts to play with for mock up, but they are too wide.

[RobNoLimit]

I plan on using a 4 1/2" bolt pattern, I'll get into why later. This was another reason for choosing the Ford IRS parts. - Because all fords are 4 1/2" right? Unless it's an IRS, then there 4 1/4". Imagine my surprise, I made a neat hub stand that I could use to hold the hub at Ride Height, and it didn't fit. First I went back and checked my math for the bolt circle, it was right on. Then I pulled out my handy plastic bolt pattern gauge, and it showed the pattern to be 4 1/4". A quick google search confirmed it. Rats, Forded again! Next was to make a drill guide and fix the problem. I also put the bubs in the lathe and checked the surface run-out and trued them up. I chose a Dorman press in stud, 1/2" x 20, and went to work.

[RobNoLimit]

Well that wasn't too bad. It took about two hours to do all the machine work and press the studs. The uprights are Lincoln Mark-8, And while these cars had no toe adjustment, these will when I'm done. The uprights are aluminum, and weight 5 lbs empty. Once I had them blasted clean I pressed in new heavy duty bearings and pressed the hubs back in. The complete assembly (upright/hub/bearing/studs) weigh 9.8 lbs each. I will be re-using the OE Ford upper bushing, but I am going to replace the lower bushings with spherical bearings, so that will add a few ounces each.

[sdg0080]

Very interesting on the rear suspension. And the 8.8 is a very strong setup. I've seen the solid axle hold 1200 hp with only upgraded shafts.

[iadr]

To me, I sat in a Factory five, and was very sad- I wouldn't want it.
Driving position. Shoulders had to be inward of hips, feet tight together & both splayed left. Impossible to get comfortable or even in a position I could do my best driving. That Texas Co (IIRC, Lonestar) who extended the wheelbase a significant amount, had a good idea.
Don't suppose for this built you'd move the drivetrain forward, but for 95% of builds, that's a legit solution, too.

[RobNoLimit]

To me, I sat in a Factory five, and was very sad- I wouldn't want it.
Driving position. Shoulders had to be inward of hips, feet tight together & both splayed left. Impossible to get comfortable or even in a position I could do my best driving. That Texas Co (IIRC, Lonestar) who extended the wheelbase a significant amount, had a good idea.
Don't suppose for this built you'd move the drivetrain forward, but for 95% of builds, that's a legit solution, too.

I felt the same way in the Cobra's I have driven. So, if I close my eyes, and dream, - what would a cobra be like if it was built in '66, but with the knowledge and insights of today's car builders? - or something like that. The simple fact is that when it comes to automotive design, we demand more today than we did 50 years ago. More comfort, performance,..... Even in our Hot Rods.

[iadr]

Agree, although the first problem is the 302 is small, smaller than any current mass-produced V8. So right there, you are a step "backwards" further yet.
IDK... for me, I examined it, and reexamined it. Small, short engines (rotaries, Subaru's- no seriously) are going to give you room, but needless to say going to pale in comparison to what "should" be in there! They might, on paper come up equal on power, but they just aren't of the culture the car is. Even the Euro supercharged V12 build isn't a proper Cobra.

Ax15's and T5's can do OK and will stand up if built with aftermarket parts, and they are pretty small trans. Build the tunnel tight.

I didn't want to sit quite as far back in the wheelbase as stock, let alone move the seating back further yet.
So, seriously, what I came up with was - offset the engine several inches and around 8-10" forward. I do believe, especially with the tunability of IRS, you could make a very, very good handling car with the drivetrain moved "diagonally" quite a bit. But I knew if I was building for anyone but myself, that would be, basically, mocked.

So I gave up.

[RobNoLimit]

Harley Earl is one of my designer heroes. Like his work or not, he took everything down to the most basic shape, and then started there to build it back up. There is no secret that his design basis was the female body, Just look at a '48 Buick. When I look at the Cobra body I can see the same thing (I know, H.E. was not involved in the Cobra design...) but this really is a goofy looking gal. Great shape on the hips and rear end, but the shoulders and rib cage are far too narrow. How can this poor girl wear a backless gown to the Big Ball? The Egyptians charted out the most beautiful women as having the tips of the shoulder blade being the same width as the hips. - and I have to agree with them. Poor Jenny here isn't even close, so under the knife she goes. The plan is to split the rib cage and pull both sides out 2", as well as stretch the torso 3". There are other procedures to follow, but this will be the most drastic, and require the most recovery time.

OK, The key here was in the prep and set-up. I had spacers, blocks and alignment holes in place to position each front corner 3" forward and 2" out. I also roller strips of .090" aluminum to match the shape of the hood/nose top. These each had two sets of holes in them for Cleco's, one set at a 'beginning' spacing, and a second set of hole 2" out on each side. These were all on the same line. I was carefull to measure out the placement of each aluminum strip so that the Cleco lines were parallel to one another. This way, once the body was cut, The Cleco's would be move out to the second set of holes in the aluminum, and re-use the same holes in the body. Back at the door latch area, I fabbed up a tab to hold the latch pin location. This had to move out 2" (second set of holes) and forward 3" (this was done with material choice). The cross bar for the latch pin was 2" square, and the movable tab for the latch pin was made of 1" tube, with a small tab on the end. Moving the tab from the 'back' side of the crossmember to the 'front' side of the crossmember gained 3". The prep to about four hours, the actual cutting and moving only took about an hour.

[sdg0080]

It's going to awesome. Love the layout table you set up.

[brawls43]

Did you consider the MkIV Toyota Supra IRS? I believe they had a ~60" track width. Fairly light weight, and the Twin Turbo IRS can hold plenty of power, or if you're staying more manageable, even the naturally aspirated cars had a nice, lighter IRS, with LSD options including helical from the factory. Kinda weird throwing Toyota parts in a Ford, but a decent option. Unless you're too far along.

Also, did you consider the Corvette setup with the torque tube and rear mounted trans? Not sure if that would help with some of the footwell issues from engine/trans placement.

Either way, can't wait to see more of this. I'm sure you'll make the Cobra right.

[RobNoLimit]

Did you consider the MkIV Toyota Supra IRS? I believe they had a ~60" track width. Fairly light weight, and the Twin Turbo IRS can hold plenty of power, or if you're staying more manageable, even the naturally aspirated cars had a nice, lighter IRS, with LSD options including helical from the factory. Kinda weird throwing Toyota parts in a Ford, but a decent option. Unless you're too far along.

Also, did you consider the Corvette setup with the torque tube and rear mounted trans? Not sure if that would help with some of the footwell issues from engine/trans placement.

Either way, can't wait to see more of this. I'm sure you'll make the Cobra right.

I did look at the Toyota IRS, but when it came down to it, And I'm really only using a few of the parts anyway, I went to the Ford 8.8. The availability of parts for the Ford diff was a big factor, gears, posi units and such. I looked long and hard at the C-6 platform, and although it is tried and true, somehow it didn't match up to the spirit of what I wanted to do. Also, narrowing the C-6 IFS into the range I need would have negative effects on the turn in. - I could work through them, but then again I'd be using very few of the OE parts to do it. Thanks for the positive push, I hope I can turn my vision into reality.

[RobNoLimit]

The first step was to move the mid and front of the body 3" forward, so now the cockpit is 3" longer, and the wheelbase is 96". Initially I had a 4" spacer block in front of the headlight center, now it has a 1" spacer. You can see the second hole that is 2" outboard on the front body riser. All of the alignment strips are in place and ready to go. Time for more carvin.

[iadr]

Also, did you consider the Corvette setup with the torque tube and rear mounted trans? Not sure if that would help with some of the footwell issues from engine/trans placement.

Either way, can't wait to see more of this. I'm sure you'll make the Cobra right.

I think you'd trade bootwell issues for ... umm, butt-well issues, just based on how tightly these cars are packaged. lol

I'm sorry if I came off negative with prior posts. I'm interested, too. Like at least one poster to this thread, I ...tried and failed to figure out how to make this style of car work for me.

And as far as your anatomic comparison goes, these car are roided-up 5'1" female body builders. :)

[RobNoLimit]

That was scary, but it went just fine. From the hood forward I cut it right down the middle, and now there is a 4" gap. Behind the hood and back to the dash, I cut it in two places. This looked the best way to keep the arch over the center. And anyway, with all of this glass work, what's one more cut. The mount points and alignment strips worked perfect and all of the cutting and moving only took about an hour. Planning pays off. I tried to get picts of the front/rear sight lines over the side of the body, I hope it makes sense in the picts. There is now only about a 1/2" difference in wheel opening width from front to back, and i think it looks great. I'm just not looking forward to the glass work.

[brawls43]

I think the 8.8 is a good choice, just making sure you had heard of the other options. Its hard to beat the options and value of the 8.8 center sections.

Wow, the cuts look good. A little wider is really going to make this thing look mean! I agree with iadr, I think those of us who thought about Cobra builds, but ditched them after we sat in one, are really going to follow this and be jealous.

On a side note, can you maybe adjust the title of your thread? The parentheses mess up the link when you get emails about new posts.

[I_make_oil]

I am REALLY enjoying this thread. A Cobra is high up on my want list. This project is giving me lots of ideas. Looking forward to watching it go together.

[RobNoLimit]

I think you'd trade bootwell issues for ... umm, butt-well issues, just based on how tightly these cars are packaged. lol

I'm sorry if I came off negative with prior posts. I'm interested, too. Like at least one poster to this thread, I ...tried and failed to figure out how to make this style of car work for me.

And as far as your anatomic comparison goes, these car are roided-up 5'1" female body builders. :)

I didn't see any negatives, I guess the desert sun makes us a little more thick skinned. Negative around here is like "that guy's just a dumb $h1t" and even that, if said with a smile is not all bad. Any input is appreciated. So Thank you for being interested. HAHA, 5'1".....

[RobNoLimit]

I think the 8.8 is a good choice, just making sure you had heard of the other options. Its hard to beat the options and value of the 8.8 center sections.

Wow, the cuts look good. A little wider is really going to make this thing look mean! I agree with iadr, I think those of us who thought about Cobra builds, but ditched them after we sat in one, are really going to follow this and be jealous.

On a side note, can you maybe adjust the title of your thread? The parentheses mess up the link when you get emails about new posts.


I am REALLY enjoying this thread. A Cobra is high up on my want list. This project is giving me lots of ideas. Looking forward to watching it go together.

This is the same way I felt, and I think a lot of others have had the same thoughts about the Cobra platform. I see the future, and to be competitive will require a light, nimble, and very responsive car. The Clamor approach of Big HP, Big Tires, and Big Wide Platform have been effective and will get you in the top 10, but the future will belong to finely crafted Fencing Blades. I could have gone the 'Vette route like the current crowd, they may be smarter, as there is no doubt that that is a much easier build. But, what fun would that be. It's been a lot of fun seeing the crop of Camaro drivers wonder how fast the Truck will be at a given event, and I hope it will be as much fun seeing the "Vette club shake from the Snake.

[RobNoLimit]

Got in a few parts and played with the rear brakes last night. The Rotor is from Speedway Motors, it's a circle track item for Open Wheel Mods. -these cars usually weight 3200 lbs +/-. The rotors measure out to be 11.75" x .810" and weight 5.6 lbs. I have some experience with this stuff, and I can tell you that they work just fine, and feel just like a normal 11.75" brake. But, they will get hot on a long run, so cooling is a must. Also, they don't last too long. If I ran this set up on the car for a full season of driving, auto-x and track days, they'll be smoked. - Good news is they're cheap. about $70 bucks a rotor (almost less than good pads), so a new set each season won't kill the bank. The rotor hat is from U.S. Brake - I bought them from Speedway also in the "Garage Sale" section, $20 bucks each. The hats were 1/2" thick on the top surface, which took up more of the wheel stud than I really liked, So I cut them down to .320" thick, and cut them true just to be sure. The hats weigh less than 1/2 a pound. So, now the Upright assembly with rotor and hat is up to 16 lbs. I'm still doing some research on calipers, but it looks like I can get calipers and pads under 4 lbs, so the entire outer assembly, less wheel, tire and halfshaft will be under 20 lbs.

[brawls43]

Going to do TBM calipers or try to stick to something Ford? A sneaky fun 4 piston aluminum caliper is from '96 Lexus LS400's. Sorry for all the Toyota stuff, just happen to have used it on our race car. Pad selection is poor on the LS400, but places like Porterfield will make whatever you want. We run Raybestos ST43 pads from Porterfield. But its a 9lb caliper for 12.4" diameter and 1.1" thick rotor. Lots of fun aluminum 4 pots out there though.

[wfo guy]

Rob, I fully agree with your glass statement. I start itching just thinking about it. Is there a need to glue some core mat under the seams for reinforcement? My thought has always been that if the chassis is rigid enough, the body stays in shape forever. But can the chassis be too rigid in a car like this?

[RobNoLimit]

Rob, I fully agree with your glass statement. I start itching just thinking about it. Is there a need to glue some core mat under the seams for reinforcement? My thought has always been that if the chassis is rigid enough, the body stays in shape forever. But can the chassis be too rigid in a car like this?

I don't think so. When I get to the chassis, I'm going to try something new (for me anyway) and the whole concept is centered around making it strong and light. Hold the chassis still and let the suspension do the work.

[RobNoLimit]

An update to the build cart. Now that I have the body cut, and I'm looking at how I'm going to lay in the new glass, I have a lot of work to do upside down. And gravity is not going to be helping me on this one. So, it would be nice to turn the body over, but I can't cut it loose from the cart. So, the cart needs to turn. I want to be able to use it as a build cart, or a rotisserie, so I am trying to make it modular. - and not so permanent. I drilled 2" holes with a hole saw (man that's loud) right on the center line, to fit in 2" x .188 tubing lengths that I had. I also had some 2 1/2" x .250 DOM that I cut some sleeves from. The 2 1/2" was so snug that I had to cut .015" on the ID on the lathe so it would slip over the 2" and rotate easily. More picts on this later.

[RobNoLimit]

I've also been studying and working on the wheel openings. I know that these cars were designed in '64 or so, but it's 2015 now, and we all expect a little more. With concerns for visual appeal and aero, I think this is one area I will have to work on. I mean, I already cut it in half, why not go farther. I am pretty well set on a tire that is 24.5" O.D. +/-, and with a mock up in the wheel opening, there is a huge amount of air space in front of, and behind the tire. The leading face of all four tires is also un-shrouded from the wind, and aero nightmare. Half of the air that hits the tire face will want to go 'in' into the wheel well and under the car, that's no good. So I have been studying 'Vette's, BMW's, Jag's and Austin Martins. They all have a slight eliptical opening that is fairly close to the tire's radius. I started a drawing with a circle with a 12.75 radius, then into an ellipse that is 27.5" wide on the horizontal axis. Then from the from the centerline down, I pulled the arc open progressively away from the tire. OK, so I have this drawing of an arc that I like, but it's 24" high and 28" wide. cutting out four of these will eat up a full sheet of material. So I section the drawing into three parts and stacked them, and got everything to make four arch templates out of a single 24" x 48" sheet. -more to come

[RobNoLimit]

Here are some of the models for my case study on wheel openings.

[rustomatic]

I like the engineering in this build--it's what makes sites like this cool. It's interesting that your wheelbase sounds like that of a C4 Corvette (96 inches?), which I guess was proven to be an effective length for various purposes, for many years . . .

[GrabberGT]

I like the engineering in this build--it's what makes sites like this cool. .


Ditto! Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work.

[RobNoLimit]

Rack update. I fabbed up some end stands from some overstock material. On one end I drilled 6 holes to pin the cart in a certain position. I was surprised how easy it is to rotate the cart/body. The stands simply slide on/off of the cart, so it is easy to change the work set up. I'll get some picts of it rotated later.

[RobNoLimit]

Back to the body shape. The wheel arch templates are tacked together. I will be following the outside shape. It looks 'tall and skinny' in the picts, but I can assure you that the arch is wider than it is tall. I added standoffs to the cart spaced evenly for and aft of the axle centerlines, and made up some riser tabs to set the elevation of the wheel arch. Most of this work is to help me get the body even and squared up on all four corners. - and I can tell you that it wasn't that close before. With a mock up tire in place you can get some idea, but still can't really see the fit from the tire to the outside edge. Hanging the templates over the body before I cut the OE lips off showed how much different it will be. I hope it turns out OK.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

This is bada$$. But..... don't you need a rendering first! What's this beast going to look like?

[RobNoLimit]

This is bada$$. But..... don't you need a rendering first! What's this beast going to look like?

That may help, but I doubt I would stick to the plan. Yesterday while working on the body shaping, I decided to cut the door opening and make the door longer, moving the back half of the opening back 3". The stumbling block with this decision is that I have to make doors now. And, I already have to make the hood. I'm stacking up more spare Cobra parts than I wanted to, but.... BTW, thanks for the blessing.

when I do a project like this I start gathering pictures of things that inspire me and that I might incorporate into the project. I still print, or cut them out, and put them in a little note book for the project. Cars, art, motorcycles, airplanes, machinery, women, nature, ..... that works better for me that a rendering.

[RobNoLimit]

Got some parts from QA-1 and my machinist friend for the rear suspension. The uprights had rubber bushings all around, andwhile I am going to use the upper rubber bushing, the lowers have to go. My plan is to use a cam-bolt to have some static toe adjustment, so I need the lower bushings to pivot to allow some slight angle change. So, I came up with a plan, drew up some parts and off we go. The new bearing shells are aluminum, and have an internal shoulder to hold the bearing and an external shoulder to act as a stop for the shell. My first step was to press the bearings into the shells. The bearing is a chomoly PTFE lined unit from QA-1, with a 5/8" I.D. Then I put some red loctite on the shells and pressed them into the uprights, from the 'inside'. This way the shell shoulders and the lower control arm will hold all of the parts in place without the need for lock rings. The stand-offs, or bearing spacers are stainless, and fit into the 5/8" eye of the bearing and have a 1/2" I.D. for the mounting /cam bolt. Later on the control arm, the rear bearing mount will be fixed, and only the front will have a cam bolt for alignment. !/2" bolts may seam too small, but the load calc for the bearing/spacers/bolt assemble in dual shear is over 28,000 lbs, and there are two per upright. So, I feel pretty confident that this will be plenty strong enough. This is the little stuff that I think is really cool. And, no one will ever see it when the car is done.

[RobNoLimit]

Ahhh sanding. Not my favorite part, but it's got to be done. I started on the band saw to get the foam blocks close, then its on to a file and sanding block. The idea is to get the block to fit in tight from the back side, and push through enough to line up the face of the blocks even with the lower standoffs on the cart. the blocks then tip out 2 degrees from the bottom to the top. My goal is to have the top of the fender cover the tire, with room for the tire to travel up inside, then have the wheel opening be flush with the sidewall at the height of the tire centerline, then start to show a small amount of tire as the wheel arch goes down from there. Once I had all four fitted, I used some construction adhesive and expanding foam to glue the blocks in place - I don't want them to move. You can see some of the shape now, and yes, the front looks really wide. I think it will look a little leaner when I'm done.

[Motorcitydak]

Awesome build! Going to follow for sure. What kind of foam is that? Need it for something similar

[RobNoLimit]

Awesome build! Going to follow for sure. What kind of foam is that? Need it for something similar

So I asked the guy I got it from and he said it is 2 lb B grade. (Styrofoam) This is the same stuff that the Home stores sell for insulation. - This guy cuts it for a lot of them.

[RobNoLimit]

More carving. After looking at the whole door/side/fender area, I decided to make the doors longer. So, I fabbed up some more body tabs to hold things in place, and a side panel to hold the arc, then cut the body at the bottom of the door opening. I pulled it back 3" to the OE front/rear location, so I could use the body locating fixture that I already had. I do think the door/fender area looks more Cobra like now, and the shape should be a little more pleasing. Once in place I used expanding foam to fill some of the gaps. This stuff can be rough sanded once it cures, and makes a good enough backer to work from. The down side is that now I have to make doors.

[RobNoLimit]

So, one week of sanding and shaping is done. I still have a ways to go but the shape is coming in. Now don't laugh to hard, but, yes, the shaping filler is drywall mud. It goes on smooth, it's very workable, and it sands easy. And, I only need it to hold up one time. I know that some of you that love the traditional Cobra are thinking "NOoooooooo", but, this isn't your car, and it's not that kind of Cobra. - so be kind, it's OK if you hate it. No new mechanical parts this week, but some are on the way.

[brawls43]

Are building in a bit of aero in front there too? With a little bit an air dam to work with a future splitter?

[RobNoLimit]

Trying to get the wheel openings to shroud the tires from the wind, and smooth the airflow around the car a bit. - these cars are almost as bad as the truck aero, almost. The front will have a splitter attached to the chassis, to protect the nose and front fender edges from possible cone smacks. More sanding today.

[RobNoLimit]

Time to get serious. I'm starting to get some of the quarters in shape where I want them, so it's time to lay some glass. I have a few prep steps beforehand. Once the foam/filler is in shape, next is to cut and fill in a separation line. Some of the OE glass is still under there, and soon I will want to cut it out so that I can lay glass on the underside. Using an 1/8" cut-off wheel, I cut a small groove right next to the edge where the mud meets the OE glass. I try to cut 'almost' through, but not quite. Once I have cut the perimeter of where the 'old-to-new' blend will be, I filled the cut with drywall mud, let it dry, and sand it smooth. This will be easy to see later from the inside. Next is to scrub and wash the 'bond' areas on the OE glass. Warm water and a scrubber, then wipe with alcohol. Last is to create a 'mold release'. No normal release product will work on the foam/mud, and the resin will eat the foam in a heartbeat. So, I carefully cover the 'mold' areas with masking tape (the cheap kind) the waxie surface on the tape acts as a mold release and protects the lay up mold. Then it's time to pre cut the glass cloth and matt, and set all of the peices out in order. I usually mix up 12 oz. at a time. I was able to lay up one quarter (fender and door seam) with a 12 oz. batch. Using a playing card to chop out bubbles and extra resin, and to wipe the surface is a great trick.

BTW, I learned most of my fiberglass tricks from a guy named Manny Flores, in Mira Loma, Ca. - The best boat painter I ever saw. I'll have to tell you all about Manny in some upcoming posts.

[Rod]

looking AWESOME!

[wfo guy]

Are you itching? :)

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Are you currently working on the frame or are you literally making the body the way you want it and then building the frame to match that?

[RobNoLimit]

Are you currently working on the frame or are you literally making the body the way you want it and then building the frame to match that?

Getting the body in shape first. But, I am collecting and prepping parts for the chassis. Also doing some design stress analysis with CAD software. And, I am testing and learning about materials and hardware and epoxies. Kinda fun.

[RobNoLimit]

Still sanding and laying glass. But I am making progress. While most of the planning is going on in CAD or on paper, I do feel that I need to have actual parts to measure and hold, and just to look at. I'm doing a lot of fab/build in a style I have never done before, so I am a little apprehensive (but not too much to stop me). After a lot of searching and number crunching, I ordered a wheel and tire to look at and measure. There is a slight chance I may change from this size, but I doubt it. Here is some of my reasoning.

As a basis, this build is about mass and size. As a comparison I use the HellBoy as a baseline. (I have also been very impressed with Ryan Mathews Camaro, at 3500 lbs with 275 tires on all four corners). The truck weighs in at 3100 lbs and has a 315 tire all around. The wide five hubs on the truck open the door to a very light wheel, the 18 x 11 weighs 18 lbs. (a similar Forgeline would be 20+, which is still very light) and the 315 tire weighs 34 lbs. So the trucks wheel/tire combo weighs 52 lbs. Remember this is unspung, rotating mass - the worst. The 315's tread patch is appx 11.8" wide. So, four tires would total up to 47.2" of tread width to support 3100 lbs, or 65.7 lbs per inch of tread. - Now, this is a very basic view, because I am looking at the tread width vs. weight in a static form, and driving forces are all dynamic, but for simplicity, the comparisons are very close. For the Cobra I am using a 17 x 9 wheels from Wed's Racing (TC-105N) the wheel weighs just 15.5 lbs. The only draw back to this wheel is that the lug holes are machined for a 12mm stud, so I had to drill them for a 1/2" stud. The 255 tire weighs in at 24 lbs, so the wheel/tire combo comes in at 39.5 lbs. This is 12+ lbs lighter than the HellBoy's combo. Or, 24% lighter. The target weight for Jenny is 2100 lbs. (which is 32% lighter) The 255 tire has a tread patch appx 9.8" wide, times four ties = 39.2" of total tread width. Do the math and you have 53.6 lbs per inch of tread. That's 18% reduction in weight per inch of tread width. If I can get the geometry to stick it to the ground it should be awesome.

While there are a ton of other factors, this is an insight into the thought process that is leading the build. Also here is a pict of a Cobra that I like, but alas it is not real, a CGI myth, Oh well, it looks cool.

[Z06killinSBF]

Man this is awesome! Have you looked into the UV activated resin? Looks like you can work it all day, set it out in the sun and it instantly (almost) cures. Just a thought.

[RobNoLimit]

Man this is awesome! Have you looked into the UV activated resin? Looks like you can work it all day, set it out in the sun and it instantly (almost) cures. Just a thought.

Haven't tried this yet, but it looks cool.

[RobNoLimit]

I hope to never see Jenny in this position once she's done. But. for now, it make the work a lot easier. Trimming off the bottom edge of the front valance I decided to add an aluminum panel into the lower edge. This will help establish a flat surface for future splitter mounting, and stiffen the leading edge. After some sanding and prep on the body, I fashioned what looks like Spock's Scimitar from some .090 5052 alum. This is now sandwiched between two layers of matt glass, and will get some more layed up on the inside later. I'm now in at 40 man hrs on the body work, and just about ready to start pulling the foam blocks out.

[2ndroundko]

I love this build! do you plan to finish the flares with a small lip like the rendering or leave that as they are. will this be a track only car. and will you be selling the frame for these in the future?

[RobNoLimit]

I love this build! do you plan to finish the flares with a small lip like the rendering or leave that as they are. will this be a track only car. and will you be selling the frame for these in the future?

The flares will be close, but the lips on the rear will not be as pronounced, and they will start a little farther back (about 2 o'clock) Jenny will sit a little lower than the average Cobra, so the rear tire has to go up inside the fender

[RobNoLimit]

Now that the outside of the new shape has some strength to hold itself in place, I can go in and clean out all of the mess on the inside, foam, tape, mud, .... and sand and prep the inside to lay up some more glass. This is where the rear body strength will be.

[RobNoLimit]

Still really rough, but I'm pretty happy at this point. I was able to clean up the two passenger side openings and mock up the wheel/tire. The shape and clearance look good. Once I had checked a few things, I wanted to confirm all of the earlier math. (reality is often a bit different than the drawing board) With the tire up front at -3/4* (for static camber) and set for proper clearance on the fender, it measures out to be 60.25" WMS width. This is what I was after, close enough to use the Sniper IFS geometry with very little tweeks. In the back, with -1/2* static for the IRS, it measure up at 59 1/2" WMS. very close to the front, and I may push it to 60" and plan to run -3/4* static camber. Anyway, I'm happy that the body mod plan has worked out to put the wheel/tire combo very close to square and that I can use existing IFS geometry and components. Plus, I do like the shape of the body now. It's hard to see in the picts, but it looks very aggressive.

[RobNoLimit]

Making some progress, I'm just about done with the base 'glass work (thank god, I'm tired of itchin'). The body is shaping up nicely. It's strong and now it's a lot more symmetrical. Although I have a lot of body work left, I'm getting ready to move on to some chassis work. Most of the body work will now be done bits at a time. I'm sure the chassis is going to through me some hurdles that will require some custom parts and material, so I'll have down time for body work here and there. At this point i haven't spent much money, but I'm about 63 hrs in.

[RobNoLimit]

Starting with the rear, I programmed and cut some hub stands and then cut some blocks to support them. I like working with large material when possible. The blocks are 3" x 4" material, cut 8" long. I have a really nice Omada band saw that cuts more accurately than I can measure (less than .002" blade drift in a 6" cut) so the blocks help out when it comes time to square the set-up. Planning for these blocks I cut the hub stands 4" wide on the leg. This makes it easy to line up the hub stand onto the block. I put four heavy tacks from the stand to the block, now they stand on their own.

[wfo guy]

Rob, this is a ways off but have you thought about color choice? Once you change the shape of a known body, they can become color sensitive as to the overall intended design. I was doing a mental pic of this car coming down a straightaway at speed and can see the frog and the prince. :)

[RobNoLimit]

Ohh I hear ya. I was originally thinking about a dark green, like the Mitsubishi, Porsche or Jag. (possibly with med. metallic grey stripes) But then my wife Tina is saying dark blue. - there's a lot of blue Cobra's, but then again, that's the 'Cobra' image. I have also tossed around the idea of a copper color. This is where I get lost. Scratch build one off custom chassis - no problem. Choose a color, Oh crap!

[Z06killinSBF]

Green for sure.

How about Ford's Deep Forrest green (often called Tourmaline). It's a dark green with blue pearl in it.

[67SSDan]

Holy crap this is cool! I'm in the same boat with many other commenters, I've always liked looking at those cars, just never really wanted one for the same reasons as you guys. Good stuff!!

Dan

[brawls43]

I think Copper would look awesome. Needs to be a bright color to photograph well on asphalt tracks. Dark colors just blend in. Something orange, red, lime green, yellow, more of a grabber blue. Those colors pop. Car is coming together awesome, love the new shapes.

[bmbrzmn101]

Rob, this was a color I was looking at when considering a cobra build a few years ago. Hope this doesn't muddle the waters with paint choices too much.

Chris
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/bmbrzmn101/media/Goodguys%20lonestar%20nats%20spring%202013/100_2278_zpsqgfqn0ev.jpg.html)

[RobNoLimit]

Rob, this was a color I was looking at when considering a cobra build a few years ago. Hope this doesn't muddle the waters with paint choices too much.

Chris
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/bmbrzmn101/media/Goodguys%20lonestar%20nats%20spring%202013/100_2278_zpsqgfqn0ev.jpg.html)

That's pretty sweet. I already look at this and think, wow, mine looks way different from this.Fuel cap - yes. Side louvers - yes. Side pipes - no. Bumper-ettes and grill guard - no.

[RobNoLimit]

Funny how many people have the same thoughts about a Cobra build, and the Cobra marketplace hasn't caught on. Glad to hear I'm not alone on this. So I started playing around with the rear set up last night. It took me a while to set the hub stands into place. Hub width, both total and from CL out, elevation (set by the block) Toe (set at 0, parallel to the CL) and static camber, set at - 1/2*. Then i could bolt the hubs and uprights in for a look. Next the carrier. I had cut some parts to help stand it in place. Then I learned some things. The pinion is offset from the CL of the carrier, I kinda knew that, but now it's time to plot it out. Also, the rear mounts on the Explorer back cover are not symmetrical. Didn't know that. But, at least I have something to look at.

[Bob in St. Louis]

That's fantastic. Your fab work is nothing short of amazing, and quite inspiring too!
I've seen photos of one of the most wicked looking Cobras I've ever seen, and would love to show you, but I can't find on Google. Looks like you're right on track for building something equally mean looking.

[67SSDan]

Funny how many people have the same thoughts about a Cobra build, and the Cobra marketplace hasn't caught on. Glad to hear I'm not alone on this.

I mean... when you're done with your body, you could always use it for a mold for mass production. Same thing with the chassis when you're done. Just say'n... :bananna2:

Dan

[RobNoLimit]

I mean... when you're done with your body, you could always use it for a mold for mass production. Same thing with the chassis when you're done. Just say'n... :bananna2:

Dan


The mold idea has already been tossed around, we'll see how much interest the is when I'm done. As for the chassis, I think I would have to develop a more traditional build platform, this one is going to be tricky.

[RobNoLimit]

That's fantastic. Your fab work is nothing short of amazing, and quite inspiring too!
I've seen photos of one of the most wicked looking Cobras I've ever seen, and would love to show you, but I can't find on Google. Looks like you're right on track for building something equally mean looking.

Thanks Bob. I've been fortunate to learn from some great fabricators. BTW, I'm up for seeing picts of anything inspirational, Cobra's or otherwise.

[RobNoLimit]

More prep. The little brackets are for the rear lower control arm. These will be the attachment point from the arm to the bearings in the upright. They will be joined with a 1 1/2" tube through the large hole. The tabs will drop from the upright at a 35* angle, this was needed to have the cross tube clear the CV joint. - Yes, I made a straight set first. I was so proud, until I mocked them up. :( Up front, I cut a 4 x 4 tube to act as a spacer and fixture for the IFS cradle. It will have 4" of ground clearance under the cradle at RH, the rest of the car will have 4 1/2". Once the centerlines were plotted, I drilled two 1/8" holes for cleco's.

[RobNoLimit]

And so it begins. Ahhh A-LU-minium. Love it! The geometry for little Jenny will be the same as the Sniper IFS, I will be making a very slight change in the A-arms to set the track width. Also, the rack will be mounted higher, 'above' the steering arm, so the wheel clearance with the 17"'s isn't a problem. The base plate is .125", and the LCA tabs are .188". All of the chassis material, unless otherwise stated, is 6061-T6. In the chassis construction, there will be a mix of TIG and aluminum MIG with a spool gun. You will start to see the layering, and overlapping of materials to gain strength in certain areas. Last shot is from our oldest drop saw. 25+yrs old, and not what you would call a big $$ item, but with upgraded bearings and guides, proper set up and blade selection, it works like a charm. This is a 21* cut right through the edge with no drift. Pretty cool.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Thanks Bob. I've been fortunate to learn from some great fabricators. BTW, I'm up for seeing picts of anything inspirational, Cobra's or otherwise.

OK, you asked for it. ;)
Took me a LONG time to find it, but here's the one I was thinking of.
No idea who should get credit for it.
Hope you find some inspiration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089-1.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/BobinStLouis/media/Crap-n-Stuff/Random%20Screen%20Shots/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089238931_n_z pszeosvwjf.jpg.html)

[hotrod56]

Oh boy. That is amazing eye candy.

[RobNoLimit]

OK, you asked for it. ;)
Took me a LONG time to find it, but here's the one I was thinking of.
No idea who should get credit for it.
Hope you find some inspiration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089-1.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/BobinStLouis/media/Crap-n-Stuff/Random%20Screen%20Shots/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089238931_n_z pszeosvwjf.jpg.html)

Wow, that's bad a$$! The shrouding on the front tire is very similar. I like the rounded roll bar.

[RobNoLimit]

Spent the morning working on the front cradle. For the last 6 months or so I have been testing mounting concepts for this project. Bushings, bushing sleeves, load washers, mount and tab design and material type and thickness. The process was mostly the same. Start with an idea, get some material, fab and machine a full size part, then start applying a load (in much the same manner as the component would see in reality) until it fails. Sometimes CAD analysis is correct, sometimes close, and sometimes not so much. In all of this I did learn a LOT about material strength and loading. Little tiny details can have a huge impact. In one instance, for the LCA bushings, the first plan was to use a 1/2" through bolt. Material stretch started around 3300 lbs and tear out was 5100 lbs. By making a combined bushing sleeve with an internal load washer (up against the aluminum tab) and machining an outside load washer with a 5/8" inside shoulder (hole in the aluminum tab now 5/8") and using a 7/16" bolt the stretch went up to 6700 lbs and the tear out up to 9450 lbs. Now remember that there are two bushings on the LCA so the stretch limit where material starts to get damaged would be around 13, 400 lbs of load. - But, I did my tests with solid aluminum bushings, not Urethane. The finished bushings will be Urethane with Delron liner, so the bushing will flex first and soak up some of the load. I think that the entire chassis would flex before this.

[2ndroundko]

I'm ready to see what this does to a factory 5 car.

[RobNoLimit]

I'm ready to see what this does to a factory 5 car.

Well, you have at least a bit of a wait. lol. but we're workin on it.

[brawls43]

Nice work on the cradle! I love how No Limit Engineering does actual engineering!

[RobNoLimit]

I case you're wondering 'why' I'm skipping around, and why things may look a little different, I'll level with ya. I have very little experience with Cobra's, less with 'glass body cars, and even less with aluminum chassi'd 'glass body cars. So I'm making up a lot of this as I go along. I have an idea, I do some test parts, I throw them in the trash and try again, then I move forward a bit, and sometimes take a step back. So, you guys missed the picts of me sitting in the tubb on some plywood and a block to start to figure out where my feet will be, and how high my head/helmet are. My idea for the side rails/door jam area started out as a single layer of 1/8" with an 1/8" band under the jam edge. CAD view showed this to help the chassis rail strength as well, but it did show that the flexing rail would try to push the jam riser 'outboard'. Overlapping the riser on the outside of the chassis a 1/2" and having two weld seams helped, but only a little. (total weight of this plan was 8.3lbs of material). So I tried a double wall riser with a triangle cross section (mostly) using .080" outer and ledge and .065" inner. This showed to be way stronger, and weighed a little less. (material weight 6.7 lbs) I made some test parts, this is basically a 3" long section of the plan that I can put in a vise and beat on, or in a press and squish, and the double layer proved to be a big advantage. That's the basics. In the lower sections the dimpled holes are needed for access for body mounting the rub rail later, so I matched them on the back panel (inner only) just for fun. I have to say, that even with the structure still mostly tacked together and held on with clecos, the body is way more solid and stable.

[nicks67camaro]

This is a great build!

[RobNoLimit]

This is a great build!

Thanks Nick. Doin' my best.

[RobNoLimit]

So excited about this I had to post now. OK, so I was looking at how to make the front door jam and planning my next steps. I came up with a pretty good plan, but need to get some different hardware, that will be a few days. So, later this afternoon I thought I would give a try at making some door skins. Mostly because I was dreading it and I had the material cut. I used a slip roller and a few passes on the english wheel for shape, and did most of the trimming on a band saw. I gotta tell ya I'm pretty happy with these. They fit really nice. They wanted to be doors. I think Jenny wants to be a bad ass Cobra. She wants to go to the big dance, swanky little cocktail dress...... you get it. anyway, that was actually fun, and that's one more hurdle off of the list. WOO-HOO!

[Bad94]

Rob, this build is pure BADASS.


Looks like I need to load up my sanding blocks and head south.

[rustomatic]

Just curious, since I saw the Miller 211 there in the next set of pictures (I have that same welder!), are these tubes welded with the mig spool gun? I got one for free with my welder, but since nobody talks about using it, there's little precedent/discussion on that topic in this community . . . you'd seem to be the guy to show the way . . .


I case you're wondering 'why' I'm skipping around, and why things may look a little different, I'll level with ya. I have very little experience with Cobra's, less with 'glass body cars, and even less with aluminum chassi'd 'glass body cars. So I'm making up a lot of this as I go along. I have an idea, I do some test parts, I throw them in the trash and try again, then I move forward a bit, and sometimes take a step back. So, you guys missed the picts of me sitting in the tubb on some plywood and a block to start to figure out where my feet will be, and how high my head/helmet are. My idea for the side rails/door jam area started out as a single layer of 1/8" with an 1/8" band under the jam edge. CAD view showed this to help the chassis rail strength as well, but it did show that the flexing rail would try to push the jam riser 'outboard'. Overlapping the riser on the outside of the chassis a 1/2" and having two weld seams helped, but only a little. (total weight of this plan was 8.3lbs of material). So I tried a double wall riser with a triangle cross section (mostly) using .080" outer and ledge and .065" inner. This showed to be way stronger, and weighed a little less. (material weight 6.7 lbs) I made some test parts, this is basically a 3" long section of the plan that I can put in a vise and beat on, or in a press and squish, and the double layer proved to be a big advantage. That's the basics. In the lower sections the dimpled holes are needed for access for body mounting the rub rail later, so I matched them on the back panel (inner only) just for fun. I have to say, that even with the structure still mostly tacked together and held on with clecos, the body is way more solid and stable.

[chevyz240]

OK, you asked for it. ;)
Took me a LONG time to find it, but here's the one I was thinking of.
No idea who should get credit for it.
Hope you find some inspiration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089-1.jpg (http://s85.photobucket.com/user/BobinStLouis/media/Crap-n-Stuff/Random%20Screen%20Shots/11038695_10153139779452112_9192881446089238931_n_z pszeosvwjf.jpg.html)

This is Swede Magnus Jinstrands's Cobra. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/07/shelby-would-have-approved-the-v12-cobra/.

[chevyz240]

This is a very inspiring build! A lot of engineering, fabrication and body modifications! I like it! Have you done some calculations on what stress level you allow the chassis to reach, since there is basically no fatigue limit for aluminum?

[67SSDan]

I think Jenny wants to be a bad ass Cobra. She wants to go to the big dance, swanky little cocktail dress......

LMAO Oh, Jenny wants to dance alright!

Dan

[RobNoLimit]

Rob, this build is pure BADASS.


Looks like I need to load up my sanding blocks and head south.

Anytime you need a weekend by the lake, you let me know!

[RobNoLimit]

Just curious, since I saw the Miller 211 there in the next set of pictures (I have that same welder!), are these tubes welded with the mig spool gun? I got one for free with my welder, but since nobody talks about using it, there's little precedent/discussion on that topic in this community . . . you'd seem to be the guy to show the way . . .

Yes, that's the gun. We are using a 5052 blend wire, .035 dia. It takes a lot of practice to get the hang of it, there is very little feel, it's almost all visual. MIG type spatter shield does work and helps, Also, wipe al parts down with stainless-steel wool and acetone to prep.

[RobNoLimit]

This is a very inspiring build! A lot of engineering, fabrication and body modifications! I like it! Have you done some calculations on what stress level you allow the chassis to reach, since there is basically no fatigue limit for aluminum?

This is one of my biggest concerns, no reason to BS. I have done some calcs and the stress/stretch ability of the chassis structure together isn't really the problem. The problem is hot-spotting of specific load forces. Such as A-Arm mounts, engine mounts, coil-over mounts and swaybar mounts. I am working through several ideas on how to solve these and incorporate them into a sensible chassis design. A chromoly tube chassis would have been way easier, but I've done that many times. BTW, the Z is Bad Ass!

[RobNoLimit]

Still waiting on hardware so I got a little bit done on the rear arms. To start with the lowers, I had made up the tabs already. The bearings and retainers were done in the uprights. Although I could, I don't see the need to build a fixture to build two arms. So I am going to build these 'on spec' to the car. The tabs need to drop away from the upright so that the crossbar will clear the CV joints. I set them at 35* off of the alignment slot. The cross tube is 1 1/2" x .083 CM tubing, the lower control arm will be built out from here. I originally built this section with the mount tab gussets cut straight across. After welding I was not too happy, and a little concerned. I couldn't get the adjuster to move more than half way out. I did take me a minute to realize that the body of the upright was hitting the tab gusset. Die grinder to the rescue. - hey, it happens. But now there is plenty of adjustment, and everything fits nice.

[Bob in St. Louis]

This is Swede Magnus Jinstrands's Cobra.

Thank you!

[RobNoLimit]

Don't worry, I have been working on it. I've been doing a lot of 'build prep'. Making the little parts that will make bigger parts, and then sub assemblies, to make assemblies, that will finally be a part of the car. So here's a look at the "How far will you go?" question. The front mount on the IRS carries has two bushings. I am going to 'top' mount them through a crossbar in the rear chassis section. The majority of the torque load will pass through these mounts, and the diff carrier will do it's best to 'push' the mounts 'up' and out of the car during acceleration. - Ask Smitty about this, as he broke the carrier mount on the 48hr 'vette earlier this yr. Most of the chassis is being fabbed from 2" x 2" x .125" T6061 'square corner' milled tubing. Even with a sleeve welded in, I believe this style mount would taco on the first hard launch. So, I needed a full insert to take the load and spread it out. I found some 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" solid 6061 bar stock from a supplier and this will help a bunch. It is a medium press fit into the 2" x 2" and when drilled will provide a solid mounting surface. The fit is so good that everything has to be clean and deburred, and I think I get one shot at the install, no taking it out. So I cut the needed piece at 13" long and weighed it, 4.1 lbs. It just feels heavy compared to everything else I've been working with. (A 13" long piece of 2" x 2" x .120" wall steel tubing weighs 4.6 lbs) So, I thought about the high load areas, did some math, and went to the mill. After some whittling, I dropped the part to 2.5 lbs, a 1.6 lbs savings! And, while it looks cool now, once installed inside the crossbar tube, no one will ever see it. :( But, this is part of the "How far will you go?" approach. Farther. Anyways, I'm getting closer to actually putting the rear section together, more updates soon.

[RobNoLimit]

Inching along. One thought I was investigating was the front spindle/hub assy. While the front geometry will be spec. Sniper IFS, I was considering a lighter spindle/hub assy, since the projected weight will be reduced by appx 30% from the average Camaro. My thoughts were to machine an aluminum spindle and use a uni-bearing hub. The lightest (within reason) hub I found weighs in at 10.6 lbs. That's the Mitsubishi Evo. 370z, E70, Camry... and others all weighed more. Compared to the Sniper set up at 17 lbs for the spindle/hub/steering arm/bearings and hardware, this leaves me 6.4 lbs for a spindle and steering arm and hardware. Keeping in mind that I can cut about a pound out of the Sniper spindle, I don't think I can make a new spindle for the uni-hub at under 5 lbs. So, I'll stick with the Sniper gear. Hey, I had to at least take a look.

Back on the rear diff carrier. The rear cradle is starting to come together. I found a good source of odd material called onlinemetals.com There a little pricey, but you can buy small sections ( 1 ft. + ) and they ship to your door. While I needed some 1 5/8" x .125 tubing to make two 2" long bushing shells, I don't foresee needing any more in the future, so paying a premium for 1 ft. is not so bad. Hopefully next week I will finish the rear cradle and start on the rear control arms.

[RobNoLimit]

Hmmm, seams like there's not too many comments on these last few posts. I know it's not that exciting, but I am trying to document what is really going on, and the fixes required to move forward. So, today I really wanted to move forward, and I received my special tubing, and some urethane mounts for the IRS from Dee Engineering. This were looking up. I had the rear cradle crossmember already cut and drilled, so I cut some tubing for inserts and got started. So far, so good. Then it was decision time. The Explorer rear cover is threaded in 14mm for the back mounts, the bushings I have are .875" I.D., and we usually use 7/8" x .120 DOM tubing for sleeves with a 5/8" bolt. My first thought was to cut and drill special sleeves and use the 14mm threads like OE. Now, out here in E.T. land (East Tenn.) a 14mm bolt is not so easy to come buy. Not wanting to wait three days, or pay to overnight two bolts, I went to plan 'B'. Drill and re-thread the back diff cover and use 5/8" bolts (We have lots of those). Really the only trick here was drilling the hole out on the same angle as the OE, which is 5* from the cover. - Had I known in the early stages of this little project that I was going to thread the cover, I would have cut it to 0* and squared up the through bolts. - But, too late for that now. Threading the cover was easy, and I managed to get the threads straight and even. (It's the little victories you have to celebrate) The bushings are 90 duro urethane, these are the upper control arm bushings in our WideRide IFS, and then cut some sleeves to fit. Fit up like a charm.

[RobNoLimit]

Then it was time for more welding. Everything fit up as planned, and in a few hours, I had a finished (nearly) rear cradle. Total wt = 22 lbs. :) Time to bolt in the diff and check it out. The diff fits in easy with a little twist as you drop it in under the front mount. I will need to notch a washer for the pass front mount bolt. The clearance all around is very nice. Oops, time for another lesson. I test fit an axle, - from the Mark-VIII - with the ABS sensor ring - and it hits the back of the mount ears of the Explorer cover. What ??? Ahh yes, Explorers use a three channel ABS and the pickup is off of the ring gear. OK, well, it's only about 3/16", a die grinder will fix that later.

[RobNoLimit]

Too far along to quit yet. So, I set the cradle and diff back into the car. It's nice to see progress. This little step ate up a lot of time, but the result is worth it. Things are starting to come together, and the cradle fits just like I had hoped. Yeah us!. A little more prep and I'll be putting it in for good.

[RobNoLimit]

In the spirit of Christmas, it's give-a-way time. As I was admiring my handy-work, I noticed something that just struck me as cool. A good sign. Something that put a smile on my face. This is the same angle I was looking at it when I noticed it. The coolness of it all. So, I'll send out a free Hat for the Holidays to the first person who see's it and gets it right in a comment. :)

[gmanxpress]

It looks like a keyhole and you're unlocking the hand built, modernized Miss Jenny.

[Ppd1979]

You could see straight thru the hub/ diff to the wall.

[Jetfixr320]

I'm trying to see something else. But, I keep seeing a face. LOL and looking past what you saw.


Awesome build! Wish I had your skills and shop/toys!

[2ndroundko]

I have no clue on what you saw. As to the lack of comments, your post are always clear and concise as to what you are doing and why and my skill are no where near the level that would allow me the critique or offer opinions to your build. In other words keep up the good work.

[iadr]

Also, as mentioned, unfortunately the punctuation in the title means we can't easily use the "thread subscription" messages to forum sends out.

And it's a busy time of year...!

[sdg0080]

That rear set up is incredible. Almost makes me wish I'd done irs instead.

[SSLance]

Rob, I'm reading and watching and am always stoked when I see an update to this thread. Like said above, I can't really comment much as the fab skill you so generously share with us is far and above my skill level, but rest assured...I dig it. Please keep it up, can't wait to see this build progress.

One question, are your updates in pretty much real time? I mean, this car isn't already in paint and you aren't just teasing us along with work done 6 months ago right? If it's basically posted as you go along, I marvel at the speed you make progress. Especially considering it's all from scratch.

[chevyz240]

This is one of my biggest concerns, no reason to BS. I have done some calcs and the stress/stretch ability of the chassis structure together isn't really the problem. The problem is hot-spotting of specific load forces. Such as A-Arm mounts, engine mounts, coil-over mounts and swaybar mounts. I am working through several ideas on how to solve these and incorporate them into a sensible chassis design. A chromoly tube chassis would have been way easier, but I've done that many times. BTW, the Z is Bad Ass!

Yes, I would imagine that those places are where the stresses are the highest (and also gets cycled the most), and where fatigue may occur. In real life I imagine that it'll be OK, as you probably aren't going to put too many hundreds of thousand miles on the car! Checking for cracks every once in a while may still be a good idea! :) Thanks for you comment on my Z!

[bmbrzmn101]

I just wish my brain worked liked yours when staring at problem solving suspension issues! I am loving the design of this build.

[RobNoLimit]

gmanxpress

It looks like a keyhole and you're unlocking the hand built, modernized Miss Jenny.

OK, I'll give you that one - I think you see it.

Ppd1979

You could see straight thru the hub/ diff to the wall.

You got it. and both hubs are in. I was pretty surprised when I realized that they all lined up so well the the sight line was so close. So you two guys win the hat. Pict one and PM me and address and I'll get it right out. "Mesh Trucker", "Cloth Trucker", or "Flat Top"

20151222_085949_resized_1.jpg (406.9 KB)

Thanks for the compliments. Yes, this is real time, as real as it gets. Last nights posts were done only a few minutes after I stopped working. I would like some of the welds to look nicer, but I don't TIG on a daily basis, and some of the material thicknesses are giving me some difficulty. I'm not to worried about weld strength, just the style. They will get better, I'm sure.

[RobNoLimit]

one more thing, If someone can tell me how to change the thread title, I'll get the () out of it.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Hmmm, seams like there's not too many comments on these last few posts.

Please don't let our silence worry you. I'm eagerly looking forward to your posts. This is an awesome build.

As far as the thread title is concerned, I think you have to edit your first post on page one to change the thread title.
At least, that's the way it works on some forums.

[RobNoLimit]

Please don't let our silence worry you. I'm eagerly looking forward to your posts. This is an awesome build.

As far as the thread title is concerned, I think you have to edit your first post on page one to change the thread title.
At least, that's the way it works on some forums.

Well look at that. Thanks Bob

[brawls43]

Awesome updates, that rear is looking good. Sorry, not something I usually say to other guys.

Love the progress, I wish I could make so much progress on my projects. Really excited to see this thing rolling. Digging back into car details, are you till leaning towards the Coyota power? This thing would be pretty insane with the flat crank from the GT350...

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hang on, hang on. I think you see a key hole and you have unlocked Jenny's chastity belt!

[KYLE22]

I see a very distinct Christmas tree in the aluminum tubing of the center section mount.

[Rod]

Rob...I'm silent because I'm in AWE brother, and and as you know I'm never quiet....ok build on!!!

[Ppd1979]

This thread is just amazing! The amount of work and thought that went into this project is amazing.

[ekmxryda]

When I go over to visit my friend who rebuilds vintage Indy cars, I just listen to him describe what he is doing and nod my head. I think that is what most of us are doing on this build since you are in unfamiliar territory for most of us.
I have also been following the build since the beginning and enjoying how you are pushing yourself to try new things, and your solutions to new challenges. Judging from your past builds I am sure this thing will handle and drive great, do you have any idea on total weight yet? Might be a little early to bring it up but I am guessing around 1700 lb.
Looking forward to see how you deal with attaching the roll bar to chassis. Keep up the great work.

[67SSDan]

When I go over to visit my friend who rebuilds vintage Indy cars, I just listen to him describe what he is doing and nod my head. I think that is what most of us are doing on this build since you are in unfamiliar territory for most of us.

No doubt! Don't you worry about us, just keep right on doin' what your doin'.

By the way, when I looked at it, I immediately saw the laser gun thing from the original Tron movie that sucked Jeff Bridges into the machine.

Good stuff!

Dan

[RobNoLimit]

Hang on, hang on. I think you see a key hole and you have unlocked Jenny's chastity belt!

HAHAHA I like the way you think!

[RobNoLimit]

When I go over to visit my friend who rebuilds vintage Indy cars, I just listen to him describe what he is doing and nod my head. I think that is what most of us are doing on this build since you are in unfamiliar territory for most of us.
I have also been following the build since the beginning and enjoying how you are pushing yourself to try new things, and your solutions to new challenges. Judging from your past builds I am sure this thing will handle and drive great, do you have any idea on total weight yet? Might be a little early to bring it up but I am guessing around 1700 lb.
Looking forward to see how you deal with attaching the roll bar to chassis. Keep up the great work.

OK I'm gettin it. Thanks for all the upside comments, critics are welcome as well. 1700 may be a bit on the light side, but we'll see. I have a target in mind, but I'm going to hold that back for a while.

[RobNoLimit]

Rob...I'm silent because I'm in AWE brother, and and as you know I'm never quiet....ok build on!!!

WOW, I silenced Rodney - even for a moment? - I must be WAY out of the box

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Will the coyote be stock?

[GrabberGT]

Will the coyote be stock?

The new A52XS looks to be a heck of a motor.

[RobNoLimit]

I was planning on a pretty stock 5.0. May have to look into the A52XS.

Made some more progress, one forward, one back, one forward...... After bracing the rear bulkhead, I was about to fit and weld the rear cradle. Had it all set and clamped in perfect. Then I walked through the next steps (imagin-eering) of the assembly to see how that would go. After some consideration, I decided to pull the cradle out and add the rear uprights and the Upper Control Arm (UCA) mounts before welding in the cradle. This was kind of a pain, holding the cradle with the lower rails at 2.60* and setting the UCA mounts parallel to the LCA mounts........ and. hoping in doesn't pull much from the welding. Good news is it all worked out fine and and I can't measure any pull after it cooled down. One little detail, on the lower bracing for the forward UCA mount, I cupped out a small window to let any water/debris out. - planning ahead - I hope.

that's all for today. Have a Very Merry Christmas my friends.

[SSLance]

Rob, I hope you take more pictures of the cradle from all sides (and share them) before you put it back into the chassis for the final time. It's a freaking work of art...

[RobNoLimit]

OK lance, here ya go. Finished a few details today, just about to put it in for good.

[RobNoLimit]

One detail was for the ABS ring. Now, I'm not sayin she will have ABS, I just want the ring to clear. You know, just in case. The Explorer ABS is three channel, and it takes the rear pulse count off of the ring gear. - So, the side mounts are no issue. The Mustang/T-birds use a four channel ABS and have stutter rings on the inner axle. - These hit the Exlorer side mounts. So, a little die grinder work solves that one. you know, just in case. Or, to save some extra weight.

[RobNoLimit]

Damn, look at that mess on my work bench. I feel bad now. Not so much that it's there, but that you saw it. :) OK, last few shots. I bolted the diff carrier in and actually tightened the bolts! Just to see if they fit. At the end, I test fitted a axle one last time. It will take me a little while to be sure I am ready to weld, Making it level, flush, centered, ......... So, more picts later. So far, so good.

[brawls43]

Looking good! A dirty workbench is hard to avoid mid-project.

[SSLance]

lol... I didn't even notice the messy workbench, I was more paying attention to the frame on the stand in the background.

Thanks for posting the pics, awesome!!

[Rod]

keep going! Im digging it

[RobNoLimit]

lol... I didn't even notice the messy workbench, I was more paying attention to the frame on the stand in the background.

Thanks for posting the pics, awesome!!

Thanks, - that's one of our Pro-C10 chassis. Raised rear rail, 67-72 SWB

[KYLE22]

I have been following this build and fab work like a hawk, great work. Always looking forward to the photo updates and thought process behind it all.


In the spirit of Christmas, it's give-a-way time. As I was admiring my handy-work, I noticed something that just struck me as cool. A good sign. Something that put a smile on my face. This is the same angle I was looking at it when I noticed it. The coolness of it all. So, I'll send out a free Hat for the Holidays to the first person who see's it and gets it right in a comment. :)


I see a very distinct Christmas tree in the aluminum tubing of the center section mount.

Was it the keyhole through the diff that you were expecting people to see or my suggestion, didn't see a definitive answer on this.

[Jimbo1367]

WOW. Nothing else to say.

[syborg tt]

First let me say it's been a long time since I have been hanging around Pro-Touring.com and the first thread I read is this one. Holy crap talk about a bad ass build !!!

What I like the most is all of the engineering and thought that is going into this build. The wheel and tire choice confirms my argument that bigger isn't always better when it comes to building an all out car. After riding in a new 1le Camaro and realizing how well it rides and handles there is no need for monster tires that seem to being put on all of our cars.

Keep posting updates please and btw I will be ordering a new hat to hang in the garage.

and last note the v12 Cobra is insane !!

[RobNoLimit]

I have been following this build and fab work like a hawk, great work. Always looking forward to the photo updates and thought process behind it all.





Was it the keyhole through the diff that you were expecting people to see or my suggestion, didn't see a definitive answer on this.

Yes, it was the fact that you could look through the hubs and diff all at once. It makes sense that you could, I just never thought of being able to sight through there.

[RobNoLimit]

First let me say it's been a long time since I have been hanging around Pro-Touring.com and the first thread I read is this one. Holy crap talk about a bad ass build !!!

What I like the most is all of the engineering and thought that is going into this build. The wheel and tire choice confirms my argument that bigger isn't always better when it comes to building an all out car. After riding in a new 1le Camaro and realizing how well it rides and handles there is no need for monster tires that seem to being put on all of our cars.

Keep posting updates please and btw I will be ordering a new hat to hang in the garage.

and last note the v12 Cobra is insane !!

Thanks Marty

[RobNoLimit]

Pulled the plug yesterday. There's no way the cradle is coming back out (unless things go terribly wrong on track some where) I started by adding in half of the diagonal bracing in the rear bulkhead, - outside/lower to inside/top corners. Then sanding the mount surfaces on the back side. The cradle went in nice and I used a ratchet strap to hold it up snug. I repeated this step about four times. Install, set, clamp, measure, mark, remove, trim/sand - repeat. Not too bad. The lower control arm axis is at 0*, while the lower rail rises to the rear at 2.5*. Diff is on CL and level side to side. The diff was torqued in to help normalize during welding. Next was the side/angled lower rails. These are spaced just inboard of the rear lower chassis corner, to make room for as big as 295 tire, if needed later. Tote that they tie in just ahead of the rear LCA mount, to help shed off some of the loading. Up front on the bulkhead, filler pieces were fitted and installed to solidify the connection point from the lower cradle to the bulkhead. and finally, the second parts of the bulkhead "X's" were put in place. I'm starting to feel better about the safety factor in this area now.

[RobNoLimit]

No rest. With the rear cradle in place I added two rear rails and a crossmember to the back of the body. There really won't be much back behind the diff, but I do need to add some body mounting and a nice trunk area. This is all 2" x 2" x .120" 6061 aluminum. The rear rails are sloped up slightly, these will set the rear belly pan and de-fuser slope, and in the center, the muffler. Yes, the muffler. No side pipes. Look, it 2015, almost 16, and I'm tired of being hounded by SCCA and NASA about the noise. So, eventually, there will be one big Black Widow muffler, and a cute Porsche style oval tip. An .090" alum. pan covers the muffler well, and from the underside, you can see the space created. Later I will have to notch the rear crossmember for the exhaust tip. Also, now that the rear crossmember is in place, I need to add some fiberglass to the inside of the trunk lid lip to rest on the crossmember for body mounting. - yeah fiberglass.

[RobNoLimit]

Next was to move forward and fit the first section of the trans tunnel. I'd usually say "driveshaft tunnel" but lets be honest, most of the tunnel is for the trans, the driveshaft will only be like 20" long. With the eng/trans offset 2" to the passenger side, and the diff yoke offset 1 1/4" to the pass side, the tunnel is also offset. There will be more room for the driver than the passenger. - But, the passenger side will still fit a 16" seat.

[RobNoLimit]

Looks like Christmas!!! Got some parts in today, and yesterday. 1. New gears, 3.73, and a True-Track for the diff. 2. Bellhousing for the Coyote motor, aluminum, 18 lbs. 3. Wilwood pedal set and masters. These are really cool. Fully adjustable and the throttle has a rocker and link so that connecting to the Ford DBW module shouldn't be too hard. Best of all, three pedals, and three masters, only 7 lbs.

[brawls43]

Fuel tank going over the diff?

[Kenova]

Damn, look at that mess on my work bench. I feel bad now. Not so much that it's there, but that you saw it. :) .

My bench looks like a landfill site. Just finished installing a new wire harness in the Nova. Damn there's a lot of extra wire!
It's nice to see someone working with aluminum for a change. Makes me want to run out and buy a spool gun.lol
I'm no engineer but so far your chassis is looking pretty stiff (that doesn't sound right), especially around the door openings.
Keep up the stellar work.

Ken

[2ndroundko]

like kenova said above the frame looks really stiff. I thought frames need to have a little flexibility to absorb some of the impact? I'm sure you have your reasons and calculations for stiffness just asking because I am curious about frame design and rigidity as I want to make some modifications to my c10 frame.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Rob, can you elaborate on how the throttle pedal will interface with the Ford dbw? Thanks

[k7king]

Looking good Rob.

[RobNoLimit]

Rob, can you elaborate on how the throttle pedal will interface with the Ford dbw? Thanks

Well, I got the Wilwood pedal that has the 'rocker' assy to drive a cable or rod vertically, and has a wide ratio adjustment range. I am hoping that I can connect this to the Ford throttle pot (potentiometer) and match the pedal throw to the pot range.

[RobNoLimit]

like kenova said above the frame looks really stiff. I thought frames need to have a little flexibility to absorb some of the impact? I'm sure you have your reasons and calculations for stiffness just asking because I am curious about frame design and rigidity as I want to make some modifications to my c10 frame.

At the extreme end, if it is too rigid, it may crack. what you don't want is 'flexible' here, and 'rigid' there, then it will crack at the transition point. So keeping it consistent is the key.

[RobNoLimit]

I know most of you have seen an edger, or edge scraper. These are handy little tools. The most common are the swivel blade cutters in the $10 range. If you do a lot of sheet metal of aluminum fab, you need one. When welding thinner or softer metals, the sharp corner will overheat and possibly crystallize and contaminate the weld. Rounding the corner off will help prevent his and make the weld lay in smoother. Now, the 'double roller' stripper is the ticket. It cuts both edges at the same time. These are in the $16 range, and I can tell you that the blades in mine have only been rotated once in 5+ years, and it's still sharp as heck.

[RobNoLimit]

Last one this year. I was going to buy Kirkey seats and modify them, but then buying $500 bucks in seats and then cutting them up didn't seam to smart. I was still going to do this, but i wanted a blend of two different seats. Also, due to the offset of the driveline, the drivers and passenger seats will be slightly different. So, I started to make my own seats. Please don't be too harsh yet, they are no where near done. But, it fits OK, and is not bad to sit in. This all came from the pedals. I measured out that I need 52" from the back floor/seat up to the front footwell bulkhead. That just doesn't seem right. So, I wanted to sit in the car and double check. Almost ready to do that.

Have a safe and happy New Years, come to "Cruisin the Smokies", sign up for the "Road Trip" (Auto-cross Week) and have some fun in 2016.

[hotrod56]

NOGA DB1000 Double Edge Cutting Deburring Tool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwizOcFy03o

[RobNoLimit]

So, the seat base helped me get a better idea of the foot wel depth for the pedals. This helps me with the final engine placement and firewall line. I have all of this drawn out, but honestly, once I sit in it and put the pedals in place, it looks like the foot well will need to be about 2" farther forward than I had planned. But, No changes to engine placement from the original plans. I will have a cross tube under the engine, in line with the engine mounts. While I am still planning on a Coyote engine, I am also looking for a reasonable deal on an aluminum 302 W block (and 8 stack injected all aluminum 331 would be too cool) So, I have made up some adapter plates for the MOD motor that use #2267 SBC side mounts, and this spacing is very very close to both the Ford W and an LS. My plan is based on a modular mount system with a steel side mount bolted through the aluminum upright. To strengthen up the upright, I pressed in a 4" long piece on solid stock, and welded it in the inside. Then I drilled the through holes for mounting. To set the upright onto the cross tube, I made some pads to spread the load and strengthen the crossbar. Later there wil be some 1/8" aluminum gussets added, so the outside of the pads were sanded flat. Then the risers were welded on.

[syborg tt]

Okay I am sure it's in here somewhere but what motor are you installing and where are locating the fuel tank and how large will it be ?

[iadr]

While I am still planning on a Coyote engine, I am also looking for a reasonable deal on an aluminum 302 W block (and 8 stack injected all aluminum 331 would be too cool) So, I have made up some adapter plates for the MOD motor that use #2267 SBC side mounts, and this spacing is very very close to both the Ford W and an LS.

There you go. With some editing... lol

[syborg tt]

There you go.

Thank you very much. I remember reading when I was in Florida last week and when I searched for it today I just couldn't find it. Probably shouldn't have been viewing the site on my phone at lunch.

I would think weight of the actually motor and accessory's is also a big factor in the motor choice for a project of this level. Have you ever considered some of the new 4 or 6 cylinder engines ? I know bigger better in most peoples eyes but when you look at the Lotus and a few others it's something that has intrigued me.

[RobNoLimit]

Thank you very much. I remember reading when I was in Florida last week and when I searched for it today I just couldn't find it. Probably shouldn't have been viewing the site on my phone at lunch.

I would think weight of the actually motor and accessory's is also a big factor in the motor choice for a project of this level. Have you ever considered some of the new 4 or 6 cylinder engines ? I know bigger better in most peoples eyes but when you look at the Lotus and a few others it's something that has intrigued me.

Very true. Surprisingly, the For and GM V6 Turbo packages aren't much lighter and have a much higher cost. Here are some I really considered. Stroker Mitsubishi turbo 4-cyl (RS Motors), Ford Ecoboost 4 cyl, Subaru flat 4 turbo - this concept has a lot of upside, and an = downside. But it is worth a look. The one I really was caught on was a three rotor 20B Mazda = turbo. Light, small and high RPM ability. but, I don't know anything about Rotory engines, and as it turns out there kinda pricey. Then, factor in some the rule books that call for 'American' power, or even the same manufacturer as the body. ... still thinking and looking around on this

[RobNoLimit]

Here is the eng crossbar with the risers in place. This will span the lower rails with addition ties to the chassis. If needed, by changing the steel side pods, and possibly adapting mounts on the given motor, the eng platform can be changed with out too much difficulty. It also helps to have all of this in CAD form, to make new parts later.

Sorry for the bad pict

[brawls43]

Those RS Motors guys know how to build some nice engines.

[slimjim]

A quad rotor would be insane, I hope any kiwis on here see this, the New Zealanders seem to specialise in rotarys. the looks this thing would get with a big rotary idling would be interesting.
But as you said, they're not common here, and it could be a big expense in the future requiring a rebuild.


Very true. Surprisingly, the For and GM V6 Turbo packages aren't much lighter and have a much higher cost. Here are some I really considered. Stroker Mitsubishi turbo 4-cyl (RS Motors), Ford Ecoboost 4 cyl, Subaru flat 4 turbo - this concept has a lot of upside, and an = downside. But it is worth a look. The one I really was caught on was a three rotor 20B Mazda = turbo. Light, small and high RPM ability. but, I don't know anything about Rotory engines, and as it turns out there kinda pricey. Then, factor in some the rule books that call for 'American' power, or even the same manufacturer as the body. ... still thinking and looking around on this

[GrabberGT]

Very true. Surprisingly, the For and GM V6 Turbo packages aren't much lighter and have a much higher cost. Here are some I really considered. Stroker Mitsubishi turbo 4-cyl (RS Motors), Ford Ecoboost 4 cyl, Subaru flat 4 turbo - this concept has a lot of upside, and an = downside. But it is worth a look. The one I really was caught on was a three rotor 20B Mazda = turbo. Light, small and high RPM ability. but, I don't know anything about Rotory engines, and as it turns out there kinda pricey. Then, factor in some the rule books that call for 'American' power, or even the same manufacturer as the body. ... still thinking and looking around on this

Not to be that "fanboy" but I could sit and read your ramblings all day. Thanks for sharing.

[syborg tt]

Very true. Surprisingly, the For and GM V6 Turbo packages aren't much lighter and have a much higher cost. Here are some I really considered. Stroker Mitsubishi turbo 4-cyl (RS Motors), Ford Ecoboost 4 cyl, Subaru flat 4 turbo - this concept has a lot of upside, and an = downside. But it is worth a look. The one I really was caught on was a three rotor 20B Mazda = turbo. Light, small and high RPM ability. but, I don't know anything about Rotory engines, and as it turns out there kinda pricey. Then, factor in some the rule books that call for 'American' power, or even the same manufacturer as the body. ... still thinking and looking around on this


My buddy had a 3 rotor in his track car and since pulled it out and is building a SB2 motor for the car. I am going to have to ask him what he is doing with it.


Here is the car at first start up. Sounds really good and the track video's are even better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtvHW7U02t8

[RobNoLimit]

My buddy had a 3 rotor in his track car and since pulled it out and is building a SB2 motor for the car. I am going to have to ask him what he is doing with it.


Here is the car at first start up. Sounds really good and the track video's are even better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtvHW7U02t8

Thats cool. At the very least, I'd like to talk to him about it

[johnnysrx]

Love this build!!! Just wondering have you ever kicked around the idea of a rally car setup with a sequential gearbox? Have you seen the Ken Block Mustang? something like that I would think would be killer. I have know idea how much it would all cost, I'm sure its not cheap but it would be cool and effective. Banging threw gears up and down at will, game changer I would think, would be very cool to see something like that.

[RobNoLimit]

Love this build!!! Just wondering have you ever kicked around the idea of a rally car setup with a sequential gearbox? Have you seen the Ken Block Mustang? something like that I would think would be killer. I have know idea how much it would all cost, I'm sure its not cheap but it would be cool and effective. Banging threw gears up and down at will, game changer I would think, would be very cool to see something like that.

Sure did, until the price tag came up. I am looking at electronic (paddle) shifting though.

[RobNoLimit]

last weekend was the local "Cabin Fever" indoor car show, and it was a plus for the Jenny build. There were three Cobra's there from Unique Cobra, and it was an opportunity for me to study them a bit. The owners were very knowledgeable about Cobra history and very helpful. I get to sit in them, measure them and take pictures. They were honest about the cars abilities, and difficulties, and driving impressions.
A good look and measurements and then sitting in them showed me that Jenny will have a lot more room. Unique has a really neat steering column with a quick disconnect and the turn signal lever on the right side. Two of the cars had 427 FE motors, one was built with new aluminum block and heads. - pretty cool. I thought my tunnel was on the high side, but a comparison to these showed me I was in good shape.

The blue car in the picts is built to be an accurate representation of a known 289 track car. Complete with wipers and heater/defrost ducts for racing in bad weather, and "badge lighting" on the doors to light up the numbers on the side for night racing. I'm not so sure I'll go so far as the side lights, but the wiper/heater/defroster is pretty cool. - not sure I really want to race one of these in the rain, but...

[syborg tt]

last weekend was the local "Cabin Fever" indoor car show, and it was a plus for the Jenny build. There were three Cobra's there from Unique Cobra, and it was an opportunity for me to study them a bit. The owners were very knowledgeable about Cobra history and very helpful. I get to sit in them, measure them and take pictures. They were honest about the cars abilities, and difficulties, and driving impressions.
A good look and measurements and then sitting in them showed me that Jenny will have a lot more room. Unique has a really neat steering column with a quick disconnect and the turn signal lever on the right side. Two of the cars had 427 FE motors, one was built with new aluminum block and heads. - pretty cool. I thought my tunnel was on the high side, but a comparison to these showed me I was in good shape.

The blue car in the picts is built to be an accurate representation of a known 289 track car. Complete with wipers and heater/defrost ducts for racing in bad weather, and "badge lighting" on the doors to light up the numbers on the side for night racing. I'm not so sure I'll go so far as the side lights, but the wiper/heater/defroster is pretty cool. - not sure I really want to race one of these in the rain, but...

Wow I never thought about lighting on the door for night racing.

Seriously that's just crazy

Just in case you haven't seen these wheels yet. Bad news is they are only available in 15"

http://www.rocketracingwheels.com/rocket-sunburst-hypershot/p583

122114

Rocket Sunburst Hypershot

The original Halibrand Sunburst pin-drive wheel made its’ debut on the AC Cobra in the early 1960’s. The AC Cobra was one of the most important performance iconic cars of the 20th century. While the Sunburst classic turbine style wheels were only in production a very short while, even today they are frequently discussed and highly sought after, fetching thousands of dollars for a single set. Not only are these wheels, a really rare find, they are absolutely stunning! The first thing you notice is that the long, free flowing spokes begin at the center hub and reach all the way to the outer rim lip. The spoke length gives you the visual impression that the rim diameter is larger than a 15” diameter. The hub area is perfectly framed with what appears to be the fairing of a jet engine of an airplane and spokes that look like fins of a turbine.

Rocket Racing Wheels successfully re-engineered the Sunburst wheel to provide the safety and security of a 5 lug bolt-on application without sacrificing the classic appearance of a pin-drive knockoff. The NEW Rocket Sunburst features dual drilled, 5x4 ½ and 5x4 ¾ bolt patterns into each wheel. The recessed lug holes with utilization of our special black anodized spline-drive lugs, successfully creates the appearance of pin-drive style wheel.

The NEW Rocket Sunburst will be available in 15” sizes in early 2016 with fitments for Classic Cobras and Classic Muscle Cars of the 1960’s and 1970’s. Stay tuned for additional sizes to follow. Let us know what you'd like to see next by sending email to: [email protected]


Thats cool. At the very least, I'd like to talk to him about it

Rob,

Al said you are welcome to call him anytime you want & I will send you a pm with his number and few more pics of the motor.

122112

[19,69camaro]

I don't know if you ever saw this build but it is pretty nuts http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/gallery_custom.shtml

[syborg tt]

I don't know if you ever saw this build but it is pretty nuts http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/gallery_custom.shtml

Aldin, I am not going to be able to sleep tonight after looking at those pictures. That right there is my kind of Porn !!

[wfo guy]

In case you have never heard a rotary with open exhaust, it's one of the worst noises I've ever heard. I called NHRA and asked about a blown alky setup years ago. When Farmer Dismuke caught his breath, he told a story about one running on the east coast that the track owners had to tell not to return. Seems the sound shattered some windows in the tower. I have a video of a standard 2 rotor with a B&M blower running at Amarillo dragway in the 80's. It's nasty. :)

[justanova]

I cant get enough of your builds Rob, I love the outside the box thinking and all the details that you follow through on. with a car like this being lightweight and all I'm going to throw an unconventional engine choice out there for you to ponder. They are compact, lightweight, powerful, and have a lofty rev range.

http://www.holeshot-racing.co.uk/index.php/engines/h1-v8-busa

I have wanted to do a small, lightweight car for a while now with one of these engines but haven't had the resources to do it.

[RobNoLimit]

I don't know if you ever saw this build but it is pretty nuts http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/gallery_custom.shtml

Yes, I have. And that does not in any way detract from the total Bad-Ass'ness of that project. I have looked around and never found picts of it finished or driving. I hope it is driving somewhere

[RobNoLimit]

In case you have never heard a rotary with open exhaust, it's one of the worst noises I've ever heard. I called NHRA and asked about a blown alky setup years ago. When Farmer Dismuke caught his breath, he told a story about one running on the east coast that the track owners had to tell not to return. Seems the sound shattered some windows in the tower. I have a video of a standard 2 rotor with a B&M blower running at Amarillo dragway in the 80's. It's nasty. :)

I have to agree, but 'snail mufflers' can calm the noise down, and lift the HP numbers. Lack of torque is the problem mostly. But the power to weight and cu-in is impressive.

[RobNoLimit]

I cant get enough of your builds Rob, I love the outside the box thinking and all the details that you follow through on. with a car like this being lightweight and all I'm going to throw an unconventional engine choice out there for you to ponder. They are compact, lightweight, powerful, and have a lofty rev range.

http://www.holeshot-racing.co.uk/index.php/engines/h1-v8-busa

I have wanted to do a small, lightweight car for a while now with one of these engines but haven't had the resources to do it.

If I hit the lotto, you will see this. But, at 40K + U.S. for a total runner, it's a bit over my motor budget. Actually, it's over the total budget. I'll bet it sounds amazing.

[justanova]

If I hit the lotto, you will see this. But, at 40K + U.S. for a total runner, it's a bit over my motor budget. Actually, it's over the total budget. I'll bet it sounds amazing.

Its definitely on my lotto list as well....., they do sound pretty cool there are a few vids on youtube, just search "hayabusa v8".

[Newton27]

In case you have never heard a rotary with open exhaust, it's one of the worst noises I've ever heard. I called NHRA and asked about a blown alky setup years ago. When Farmer Dismuke caught his breath, he told a story about one running on the east coast that the track owners had to tell not to return. Seems the sound shattered some windows in the tower. I have a video of a standard 2 rotor with a B&M blower running at Amarillo dragway in the 80's. It's nasty. :)

One of the best-sounding race cars ever: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81zhOQ5PvaE

[RobNoLimit]

One of the best-sounding race cars ever: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81zhOQ5PvaE

That does sound sweet. The difficulty leaving the pit shows low torque levels, common to high rev engines. That's the problem with street driving, the dang stop signs.

[RobNoLimit]

Working away on more chassis parts. The front IFS will basically be a clone of our Sniper IFS, just fabbed in aluminum. Also, the rack will be re-positioned to clear the 3" tall lower rail. This took some re-figuring of the geometry to raise the inner pivot point, and widen the center to center span of the inner TRE to get the geometry to match. Also, the sway bar will be mounted up high, with a longer link down to the LCA. I'm still waiting on some custom machined parts for the LCA bushings, and I don't really want to build the LCAs until I have them. For the UCA mounts, I am using 2" x 2" x .125" tubing, with inserts pressed in each end. I have found that a rubber mallet does a better job than the press for installing the inserts. I drilled the holes to mount the cross-shaft of the UCA at it's spec 8* anti-dive angle, so that the aluminum tube would be level. - it's easier for me to set it in the chassis that way (instead of drilling it on center and having to tip the mount at 8*) Rising from the UCA mount is the upper coil-over mount. This also has an insert, that I milled out for weight. Hey, I cut out a pound. The upper shock mount will then bolt on similar to the engine mounts, and have multiple positions available. It's kinda slow going, but I'm moving forward.

I bought another third member on E-bay, and another explorer back cover locally on CL. After fitting, these are off to be powder coated, the assembled with the new gears and diff. I think I'm going to pull the plug on the DSS billit stub axles and Porsche 930 CV's and splined axle shafts. I probably don't need it for strength or torque load, due to the light weight, but I have to go custom anyway for the width, and this stuff is also 20% lighter than the OE gear. - sorry wallet.

[Rod]

DANG! you gotta really teach me how to weld aluminum...just digging it

[RobNoLimit]

More goodies! The calipers and pads came in from Wilwood. This is good because I need to machine the caliper mounts to fit the uprights and spindles, so that will take a little time. I chose calipers based on a few factors. 1) I wanted a 'lug' mount, not radial mounting, so that I can make the mounts easier. (that casts out about half of the choices right there) 2) Fit to the chosen rotor size. 12.19 x .812" rear, and 12.88 x .812 front. 3) the piston size / area = clamping force available. 4) is there a large selection of pads/compounds. and 5) weight. The rear calipers are #120-9693 with four 1.75" pistons = 4.808 sq.in. piston area the fronts are #120-13429 six piston, the pistons are 1.62" (one) and 1.38" (two) = 5.05. Pad area for the front caliper is 28% above the rear. the front calipers weight only 4.5 lbs, and the rears are 3 lbs. SWEET!

[iadr]

Math seems to show that set up is really going to be dependent on the proportioning valve. Any reason you didn't go with with a smaller hydraulic area in the rear?

[Motorcitydak]

Loving the build! So manual brakes then, can't wait to see more

[RobNoLimit]

Math seems to show that set up is really going to be dependent on the proportioning valve. Any reason you didn't go with with a smaller hydraulic area in the rear?

to be honest it's a gamble. 52% rear weight (is the goal), very low CG, low front dive, matched with twin cyl balance bar, 5/8" cyl front, 3/4" cyl rear. Trying to get a smooth pedal that is easy to modulate. If the rear proves to catchy, I'll swap to 1.62" or 1.5" bores.

[RobNoLimit]

OK "iadr", you had me thinking about this last night. I did all the math a while ago, so I went back and did it again from scratch.

The pedal is a balance bar tandem cyl. 5/8" front, 3/4" rear. My basic calcs were with 55% to the front cyl. 60 lbs. foot pressure, 5.5 ratio. So, 60 x 5.5 = 330 lbs, 182 front, 148 rr. Front cyl has .306 sqin, rear has .44 sqin. This nets 607 psi ft., and 337 psi rr. (net line pressure to calipers)

Ft. caliper has 5.05 sqin, x2 = 10.1 sqin ft clamping area this nets 6130 lbs clamp force. (with 607 psi)
Rr. caliper has 4.808 sqin x 2 = 9.62 sqin rr clamping area, this nets 3242 lbs clamp force (with 337 psi)

Pads will be BP-40 in front and BP-20 Rr
Ft CF is appx .55 adjusting the front clamping force to 6743 lbs
Rr CF is appx .45 adjusting the rear clamping force to 2917 lbs.

Rotor diameters are 12.88 ft, and 12.19 rear. I used 1" as a "center of pad" adjustment to the rotor radius.
Ft rotor R = 6.44, -1 = 5.44 in. = .453 ft
Rr rotor R = 6.1, -1" = 5.1 in. = .425 ft.

Finally I got to the net brake torque.
Ft is 6743 lbs x .453 ft = 3055 ftlbs
Rr is 2917 lbs x .423 ft = 1234 ftlbs
Total brake force 4289 ftlbs

Net front % = 71.2%

- looks great to me. Front brakes will have coolant ducts, rears will not, so higher psi up ft is OK. With 2200 total est weight, 48/52 balance, I may actually need more rear brake, and run the balance bar closer to 50/50. *** But maybe we can get Ron or Tobin to check my math.

[2ndroundko]

Any updates? What motor are tou using for mockup?

[iadr]

I'd done the math with the front and rear diameters confused (I misread your post, which stated rear diam first in the written sentence, a little against convention. And I have a car that came OE with the rears larger, so didn't cause me to re-examine).

Plus I assumed same pad compound front and rear.

Yes, 71.2% is great in my books! :)

[RobNoLimit]

I'd done the math with the front and rear diameters confused (I misread your post, which stated rear diam first in the written sentence, a little against convention. And I have a car that came OE with the rears larger, so didn't cause me to re-examine).

Plus I assumed same pad compound front and rear.

Yes, 71.2% is great in my books! :)

Yeah, you have to watch me on that. I don't mean to, but I swap the numbers around from time to time. Not dyslexia, but too much of a hurry I guess. - But it did make me double check, and that's OK.

[RobNoLimit]

Any updates? What motor are tou using for mockup?

The mock-up motor is a 4.6 Mod Ford. Not exactly the same, but similar to a 5.0 Coyote. Actual motor should be here soon.

[RobNoLimit]

More parts. The trans is here. This may surprise you all. I chose to go with a simple platform of a T-5. This trans is from Pro-Motion with some upgrades. Considering HP - sub 500, and the low weight, I think this will be a good choice. It saves at least 18 lbs over the next lightest reasonable choice, and is a bit more compact. I really like the Legends Gear 700, but there is no need for that level of brute force here. In my Silver Bullet F100 I used a T5, a used one, we just put in a new output bushing and seals. I thrashed on it for four years, with more torque and HP in a truck that weighed 3300 lbs. With a good shifter and clutch, it never let me down, never had to force a shift, hardly ever missed one (not the trans fault when I did). The total package, Trans, Bellhousing, Flywheel, Clutch, Throwout bearing, and Shifter comes in at 139 lbs.

I've also been working on the chassis and front section, and sanding on the body, more picts soon.

[RobNoLimit]

More fab work on the IFS. This is the sub assembly that will mount the upper control arms and coil-overs. It is also the bulk of torsional strength in the front of the chassis. The UCA mounts are fitted with solid (milled out for weight) slugs to prevent crushing of the tubes. The main crossbar is 2" x 2" x .125" stock. To bridge down to the LCA mounts and plate the center rib was built up. The panels are .090" 6061. To stop the upper shock load from bending the upper mounts 'in' I added some diagonal bracing. The entire assembly is very strong, and weighs in at 16 lbs. This will have plenty of room to get the eng/trans out, but it is tight getting the radiator in place. I'm starting to feel the pinch of a small car build. With the sub assy set in, I mocked up the UCA just to do a quick check of the spindle placement, and everything checks out nice.

[2ndroundko]

the pictures aren't working

[71RS/SS396]

I'm letting the air out of your tires when you show up with this thing. :naughty:

[RobNoLimit]

I'm letting the air out of your tires when you show up with this thing. :naughty:

They will have helium to cut weight.

[RobNoLimit]

I'm letting the air out of your tires when you show up with this thing. :naughty:

They will have helium to cut weight. :)

[RobNoLimit]

photo test

[brawls43]

That works. I can see it, but nothing in post #195

[RobNoLimit]

Yeah I don't get it. I did crop this that test pict a bit, I wonder if the others are too big.

[brawls43]

Its weird, now I can't see the pic in 194 either. I swear I saw it before, but its only 194 and 195, all the other pics you've put up have worked.

[RobNoLimit]

Photos fixed. Operator error.

[RobNoLimit]

Got some parts today from my friendly machinist Todd. These were side projects for him, so it took a while, and I wasn't dying for them (OK, I kinda was, but just to touch 'em), but now I have them. These are the bushing sets for the front and rear lower A-arms. I had several problems of friction and loading to overcome due to the aluminum mounting tabs. My solution was to design in a specialized part for each job, more so than the normal set up.

The outer shell (which will be part of the A-arm) is almost normal just a bit narrower to make some room for other parts. 1 3/4" x .120" wall CM tubing. Next in is the red urethane bushings. These are close to normal, just trimmed down a bit to fit the narrower shell. These are 90 duro, and a little stiff, but will soak up the harmonics a bit. - Urethane is a reasonable bushing material, but not without compromise. While it is firmer for performance than OE rubber, it usually has a high friction (drag) and can be noisy (squeaks). By comparison, Delron or Nylon bushings have very low friction, but tend to transfer all of the harmonics and vibration. So, I thought to blend the two. The inner sleave is Delron, and has a snug fit to the urethane bushing, although is appx .100" shorter in total (.050" per side). The steel 'sleeve' has been replaced with a stainless sleeve that has a built in load washer to fit up to the aluminum tab. The inside corner of the sleeve has a .040" radius, this is why the Delron liner is a bit shorter. Once in place, the outer washers will go on. Note that these have a .160" shoulder to fit into the aluminum tab - this way the through bolt never touches the aluminum tab. Once the bolt is tight, the bushing mount is extremely solid, and has no 'hot spots' transferring the suspension load to the chassis.

I know, but at least I think it's cool.

[PhillipM]

Awesome Rob, thanks for sharing!

[RobNoLimit]

One step....... SO, the bellhousing that I fist purchased is a no go. Although I I was told it would fit the T5, it does not. It does fit Tremec 500/600, but that's not what I'm going to run. Kind of disappointed about this. Yes, it was 64 days from purchase when I finally checked the fit, and due to CJ's policy of 60 days, they would not take it back. - Even though they did agree that their salesperson gave me bad info. So, I have a new bellhousing for sale (Coyote to TKO) if anyone needs one. (No more CJ's for me) Moving forward I got a Quicktime bellhousing that does fit, and is safer to boot. But, it is 6 lbs heavier. On the plus side it is a bit more compact, leaving a little bit more room for exhaust. Now i have the bellhousing and T5 in place so I can start on the tunnel and center tub fab.

[wfo guy]

That pic makes the engine look high compared to the floor. Am I correct in the scrub line determined how low the driveline could be and the other parts are lowered to the bottom of the oil pan level?

[iadr]

If I may answer for Rob- the "beams" you are seeing are the build table, and the tops of the cross beams represent the asphalt!
Put it another way-
The spacer at the bottom of the bellhousing is the full height of ground clearance- and that is what, 3"?

[RobNoLimit]

Right on both counts. BTW, it's 4" of ground clearance. At some point as the car is getting closer to the ground, some items, like the motor and trans can't go any lower. But, if the chassis and body keep going down, it does start to look like the engine is sitting a little higher in the chassis, and it is. Most Cobra's really aren't that low. And It may go lower. I have an oilpan on order and if it is actually the spec dimension, the I can trim the lower lip off of the bellhousing and drop the eng/trans 3/4" and have the same ground clearance, but then that's it, nowhere else to go from that point but up. Right now the trans output is .850 above the pinion yoke, if I did drop the eng/trans .750", the offset would only be .100".

[Rod]

it was 64 days from purchase when I finally checked the fit, and due to CJ's policy of 60 days, they would not take it back. - Even though they did agree that their salesperson gave me bad info.

wow! thats really crappy....

[bmbrzmn101]

But, it is 6 lbs heavier. On the plus side it is a bit more compact.

One way of looking at the weight difference in a positive light is if you ever explode the clutch/flywheel package the quicktime should contain it and not remove part of a foot. Lol . Still enjoying watching you progress on this.
Chris

[RobNoLimit]

One way of looking at the weight difference in a positive light is if you ever explode the clutch/flywheel package the quicktime should contain it and not remove part of a foot. Lol . Still enjoying watching you progress on this.
Chris

Haha, damn straight! I do like my toes, and feet and ankles..... without them, it would be tough to ride motorcycles. And I do love motorcycles.

[Grey65]

My car is right at 4" off the ground and the oil pan is 3.5" off the ground...

[brawls43]

How's it coming Rob? Any new progress this week?

[RobNoLimit]

My car is right at 4" off the ground and the oil pan is 3.5" off the ground...

I'll be a little bit higher, trying to keep the scrub at 4"

[RobNoLimit]

How's it coming Rob? Any new progress this week?

A little, but, as luck would have it, we're really busy here at the shop (not so bad really) but i am making progress, I just need to get more picts up.

[modmotor46]

This build is incredible! I especially love the IRS fab work and the extensive use of aluminum!



Danny,

[Peter Mc Mahon]

ahem, having withdrawal symptoms over here.

[2ndroundko]

Yeah what he said.^^^

[2ndroundko]

Man thanks for the ride along today. Your truck is awesome and Im sure this car will be as well. Im the big bald black guy (Darius) lol.

[ezccole]

I'm getting hungry, please!

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Anything new?

[johnnysrx]

anything new to report?

[brawls43]

Any new updates or too many customer projects?

[OLDFLM]

Bueller? Bueller?

[OLDFLM]

Anyone? Anyone?

[RobNoLimit]

Oops, sorry for the drop off. We've been super busy at the shop. But, I have been making progress. I'll get some picts up soon.

[Ppd1979]

I've been looking forward to some updates to this thread!

[OLDFLM]

It's been over a month... need a fix!

[brawls43]

It's been over a month... need a fix!

Ditto, but these posts from people like us are just teases that Rob might have put up a new post. lol.

[OLDFLM]

July is almost over... progress?

[OLDFLM]

Bueller? Bueller?

[OLDFLM]

Whatever happened to this build?

[Motoracer838]

Whatever happened to this build?

What he said!!! just stumbled upon this yesterday, spent too much time reading through just to have it die out in the last couple of pages...

So come on Rob, let us know what became of Jenny.

Joe

[Ppd1979]

What he said!!! just stumbled upon this yesterday, spent too much time reading through just to have it die out in the last couple of pages...

So come on Rob, let us know what became of Jenny.

Joe

Still waiting for updates.

[OLDFLM]

Hello... can you hear me...?

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Hopefully Rob is just super busy. He hasn’t posted since end of April. He is a great source of information and inspiration here

[johnnysrx]

updates? project still going?

[BuzzKillian]

updates? project still going?

I saw it at his shop, May 2018. It looked like it had been raced... had numbers on the door. I know Rob has been covered up with work.
171781