Suspension update for Daily Driver 70 Chevelle

[Greenchevelless]

Hey guys I have a 70 Chevelle, well it used to be a daily driver, but I bought a truck and daily that now. But I still drive the Chevelle alot. Its a original SS 396 car so it has the f41 suspension, Poly Bushings in the front, rubber in the rear. I updated the swaybar to the 1.25" bar and Im running 16" zq8 wheels. The front springs are original, the rears are moog variable rate springs. I also have the JGC steering box.
Problem is I think the alignment shop is aligning it to the bias-ply tire specs. Steering is incredibly sensitive and easy, way way too easy when driving down the highway. It makes me nervous because of it.

Well im thinking about upgrading the whole suspension setup, tubular arms, new springs, shocks, alignment specs, rear discs ect.

Considering what I've told you I already have what would you go about doing to update it? Ive been looking at the BMR setup with the bilstein shocks.
It is a iron headed big block with ac and full interior.

I dont do any autocrossing or road racing, But i do go to the drag strip a few times a year and hit the highway loops when commuting a lot and considering what it has it can do the loops fast enough that I can't keep myself in the seat.

[hotrodalex]

For alignment specs, this is a good place to start.
Camber: -1 to -1.5*
Caster: 5 to 6*
Toe: 1/16" toe-in

Most new tubular control arms will be able to get you those specs. All of that caster will increase steering effort and the slight toe-in should help with stability on the highway.

[MonzaRacer]

Honestly after installing Ridetech CoolRide rear springs, with only manual fill lines ran to each rear spring i would honestly look at building a simple kit. You can do CoolRide on stock arms or StrongArms. and add in Ridetechs awesome new shocks in single adj. you couldnt go wrong.
I ran full on CoolRide on my78 C10 for almost 5yrs till carb issues sidelined it.
I used an A6 ac compressor for air, three paddle switches and three guages in place of stock dash guages.
And had 5 gallon tank bolted to frame. but smaller tanks also work.
for bare bones you could run pneumatic paddle switches either in separate lines all the way up to full digital control. You would have too ask but I believe they still sell stock type shocks designed to regular driving specs. But for me jumping to HQ single adj shocks would be no brainer.Just depends on cash reserves.
Heck for $2150 you can get Strongarms lower front, coilovers in hq series and then add hq rear coilovers in back and still keep stock rear arms to start. You an also wait to add strong arm uppers to front a while. And rear bars for A body are only extra $500.
Honestly my 71 Monte never rode or handled better than with the rear air ride.and I just had Monroe Sensa Trac shocks in rear. They were new take offs , customer had jacked up rearend of his Nova and we had to find longer shocks which we wound up using Monroe Gas Magnums instead, longest shock we could get. And i got to keep Sensa Tracs! Rode great, launched pretty good on street tires, and since the 350 roller motor made nearly 500 lb ft of torque traction was critical.
Just depends on wants, desires and wallet or credit score!

[BMR Sales]

Hey guys I have a 70 Chevelle, well it used to be a daily driver, but I bought a truck and daily that now. But I still drive the Chevelle alot. Its a original SS 396 car so it has the f41 suspension, Poly Bushings in the front, rubber in the rear. I updated the swaybar to the 1.25" bar and Im running 16" zq8 wheels. The front springs are original, the rears are moog variable rate springs. I also have the JGC steering box.
Problem is I think the alignment shop is aligning it to the bias-ply tire specs. Steering is incredibly sensitive and easy, way way too easy when driving down the highway. It makes me nervous because of it.

Well im thinking about upgrading the whole suspension setup, tubular arms, new springs, shocks, alignment specs, rear discs ect.

Considering what I've told you I already have what would you go about doing to update it? Ive been looking at the BMR setup with the bilstein shocks.
It is a iron headed big block with ac and full interior.

I dont do any autocrossing or road racing, But i do go to the drag strip a few times a year and hit the highway loops when commuting a lot and considering what it has it can do the loops fast enough that I can't keep myself in the seat.

Our Tubular Arms have Geometry changes to really update how the front end handles. Bilsteins are a Great Driver Shock that will hold up at the Drag strip. I have a Package with everything included for the Full Suspension.

T.C.

[TheJDMan]

A word about alignments. Many shops will simply look up the year and model of your car on their computer alignment system and set the alignment to the factory specs regardless of suspension mods. I had this happen the first time I went to a local commercial alignment shop. When I told the alignment guy I had a DSE subframe and his specs were completely wrong for it he said that was all he was allowed to set. Needless to say I did not pay for that alignment and I did not go back to that shop. In short order, I learned how to do my own alignments with a digital level and some string. Find a shop that will set the alignment to specs you provide or learn to do your own alignments.

[Nicks67GTO]

EDIT* Forgot link

The nice thing is you have a huge selection for your 70. BMR, UMI, Ridetech, SC&C, Detroit Speed, etc. As long as you stay with an American made manufacturer, you really cant go wrong.

Iv'e also got a backburner 70' Chevelle that i'm kind of kicking around ideas on. One of the ideas is a budget oriented, April-November, daily driver. Every day rain or shine. If I go that direction ill be buying the kit linked below more than likely. It has some really nice features like the adjustable HQ Ridetech shocks, frame mounted rear sway bar as opposed to lower control arm mounted, roto-joints as opposed to just poly or spherical rod ends in the rear control arms. It seems like the best deal in the game, it's all american steel and american made to my knowledge. On holiday weekends UMI will have big sales occasionally too. Its just another option to look at.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_254_364

[Boxjohn]

A word about alignments. Many shops will simply look up the year and model of your car on their computer alignment system and set the alignment to the factory specs regardless of suspension mods. I had this happen the first time I went to a local commercial alignment shop. When I told the alignment guy I had a DSE subframe and his specs were completely wrong for it he said that was all he was allowed to set. Needless to say I did not pay for that alignment and I did not go back to that shop. In short order, I learned how to do my own alignments with a digital level and some string. Find a shop that will set the alignment to specs you provide or learn to do your own alignments.


This is very true. Process at my work is basically just to pull up the specs for the year/make/model/package and twist stuff until it matches the specs. Camber and caster are often extra, and custom specs on custom parts is a request we deal with maybe once every 6 months. We're not targetting that market, and frankly aren't knowledgeable enough that we should take in that sort of work. Many places will still give it a try, though.

[Greenchevelless]

For alignment specs, this is a good place to start.
Camber: -1 to -1.5*
Caster: 5 to 6*
Toe: 1/16" toe-in

Most new tubular control arms will be able to get you those specs. All of that caster will increase steering effort and the slight toe-in should help with stability on the highway.


Would these be the correct specs for the stock control arms as well?

[hotrodalex]

Would these be the correct specs for the stock control arms as well?

With the stock control arms you won't be able to get as much caster. I think 2* caster is about the max.

The upper control arm is the important upgrade for alignments. I know some guys run a tubular upper and keep the stock lower until they can afford to upgrade it as well.

[UMI Tech]

Not sure how I missed this question.

UMI sells Made In PA-USA suspension for your car. Our upper a-arm adds caster to improve steering feel and to reduce float.

We can do pieces a la carte or full kits. And like mentioned above, we always have an awesome Black Friday sale.

Happy to discuss on here or on PM or on the phone or on email...

thanks

ramey

[Greenchevelless]

IM thinking about buying the BMR front control arms I found them for $960 shipped or the UMI arms are $998 shipped. My brother has a new front set of Hotchkis 1" drop big block springs hes gonna give me. And I found all 4 bilstein shocks for $66 a piece shipped. My car already has the 1.25" front bar and the new rear springs. Also has the factory frame supports, boxed rears, and rear sway bar. so I think the arms, shocks, and front springs will get me going good for now. And I can always update the rear control arms at a later day if i find a good deal.

So BMR vs UMI control arms. I like the way the UMI looks but for almost $40 less i can get the BMRs. So i wonder which one is the better performer and strength.

[UMI Tech]

IM thinking about buying the BMR front control arms I found them for $960 shipped or the UMI arms are $998 shipped. My brother has a new front set of Hotchkis 1" drop big block springs hes gonna give me. And I found all 4 bilstein shocks for $66 a piece shipped. My car already has the 1.25" front bar and the new rear springs. Also has the factory frame supports, boxed rears, and rear sway bar. so I think the arms, shocks, and front springs will get me going good for now. And I can always update the rear control arms at a later day if i find a good deal.

So BMR vs UMI control arms. I like the way the UMI looks but for almost $40 less i can get the BMRs. So i wonder which one is the better performer and strength.

We are friends with BMR but for competition purposes of course I feel we deliver a more superior performing and quality product. :headbang:

When you get to comparing a few dollars here and a few dollars there it gets tough for vendors because we all feel our parts are worth the cost. It all comes down to who's going to support you after the purchase, who can provide tuning at the track on a moments notice and so on...

[BMR Sales]

We are friends with BMR but for competition purposes of course I feel we deliver a more superior performing and quality product. :headbang:

When you get to comparing a few dollars here and a few dollars there it gets tough for vendors because we all feel our parts are worth the cost. It all comes down to who's going to support you after the purchase, who can provide tuning at the track on a moments notice and so on...

We can both debate this for Hours - Ramey & the Guys @ UMI are Stand Up dudes.

Both American Made, Quality Parts!

[Greenchevelless]

Well here is an update. I put bilsteins on the car couple weeks ago. Ive only driven it once (bad weather) it made a world of difference in how it rides. Doesnt feel like the rear is on pogo sticks anymore and feels like it might actually hook up better.
I just hit the black friday sale at BMR and ordered their front control arm kit. Now just waiting for it to come in so I can get to work.