Molding fiberglass wide kit to car, which materials are needed

[xboxhaxorz]

So i have a project car im working on, currently the fiberglass pieces are riveted to the fenders, door and panels with bondo filler layed on which has several cracks and chips

I want to know the best way to proceed

Should i remove the rivets and start totally from scratch, or just start this point after removing all the bondo filler

I did a search on molding fiberglass to metal and found this thread and this product

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/lord-fusor-plastic-to-metal-cross-bonding-adhesive-medium-116-p-15938.aspx

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/89485-Bonding-fiberglass-to-steel

My plan after molding, is to use dipit paint and i do not want cracks or chips to occur or at the very least reduce the chances of this occuring

[jlcustomz]

I commented in the thread you pulled up. No experience with that lord fuser product, but it is a lower cost version of the 3-m 8115 automix many of us have come to trust.
To recap, you either rivet & have a separate look with paint between the 2 parts OR go down to bare metal where needed & bond the parts together, then sand & fill & epoxy any raw metal showing. You will need to clamp the parts together to glue, could even use screws till glue dries & fill the holes with panel adhesive.
That's pretty much your 2 choices........

[HotRod47]

I agree with the above response to your question. You really only have two choices on what you should do, but there are different ways of going about it.


So here is what I, and several friends in the area have done. While I do like 8115 from 3M, and the Fusor products are good, I like West Systems epoxy based adhesives. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/new-six10-epoxy-adhesive/ The benefit to this product is great bare metal to fiberglass adhesion, as well as 'glass to 'glass of course. It has a 24 full cure time, but can be sanded faster than that if needed. The biggest benefit to me is that unlike 8115 where the excess needs to be sanded off before body filler work, the six-10 is sandal and can be reapplied for more filler, or topcoat with any body filler for a faster repair. Being epoxy, once it cures it does not settle or shrink, at all. Not a lot of "car guys" know about West Systems as it is mostly used in the marine industry, but if it works great there on boats, it will certainly work well in our industry as well.

Have you ever seen a guy with a 'glass car where they did repair work, and out in the sun you can see where it was done? 99% of the time that is because of the polyester based resin and not using epoxy based. I have done work on my 32 Ford, out in the baking sun you can not see where anything was done, years later.

That, is just my way. everyone has their own way of doing things, you just need to figure out what is best for you.

[jlcustomz]

Glenn's recommendation of the west epoxy for a project like fender flairs is likely a better & lower cost choice for a project like fender flares. Haven't used the six10 yet, but I do have west marines epoxy holding my fiberglass upper hood skin to my custom made aluminum lower braces, among other uses. Epoxy, NOT polyester resins is also part of what gives carbon fiber it's strengths.
While both products mentioned are very strong epoxys, the 3-m is mostly best just as a glue, while other epoxy's can be used more extensively into the repair & fabrication of fiberglass material itself.
In general, epoxy is more costly & nastier to work with than poly resins for fiberglass repair & construction, But the benefits can be well worth it. Epoxies also deteorate faster in sunlight if left unfinished.

[xboxhaxorz]

After selecting an approach, when all is said and done ie; molded which would be the best product to use as a filler