PPG epoxy and evercoat g2 reaction - help

[67rstbkt]

Looking for a little paint help - I sprayed ppg dp50lf epoxy on my fenders and let it dry for 3-4 hours. I followed up with g2 featherfill, let dry a few days and then blocked it. I went through in a few spots to the epoxy and a day later noticed some issues. The epoxy was wrinkling under the feather fill. I know lots of people have no issue, I'm wondering where I went wrong? I only used feather fill on the spots that needed it (bodywork). Did I not wait long enough for the epoxy to dry? If so, how long should I wait? I featherfilllef the hood without issue, but I sprayed the epoxy on the hood over a year ago.
Currently, I have all the bad sections sanded down and ready to go again. I don't want to mess it up again. Thanks

[MuscleRodz]

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/A0320685-0081-4DBE-B240-D3E0B4005CB7/09/p-196_dplf_epoxy_primer-9-13.pdf

must wait overnight before applying body filler.

[67rstbkt]

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/A0320685-0081-4DBE-B240-D3E0B4005CB7/09/p-196_dplf_epoxy_primer-9-13.pdf

must wait overnight before applying body filler.

I have that - I guess I didn't consider feather fill an actual filler. I'm going to give it another go and wait at least a week this time

[snappytravis]

I didn't look at the p-sheet on the dp, I do know there is a window of time to topcoat. If you wait to long as well you need to lightly scuff it. I don't even think it needs to be sanded all the way to bare metal. Just block it with 180 down to the dp. Then reprime watch flash time on the primer as well.

[MuscleRodz]

featherfill is nothing more than sprayable bondo. Frankly, I do not like DP epoxy. It has no hold out or sealing properties, works about as good as edp does, it will rust right through it. I have always like Duponts 2500 series epoxy because of its excellent holdout and sealing properties. PPG recently added a high build DTM to their vibrance line, VP2050. On my latest project I have been using it and like it so far. Car was already in Dupont epoxy, I body worked it, then 2 coats VP2050 then waited 1 hour to top coat per specs and applied 3 coats VP2100, which is a sprayable polyester. I have already been using the VP2100, and like it alot.

[67rstbkt]

I didn't look at the p-sheet on the dp, I do know there is a window of time to topcoat. If you wait to long as well you need to lightly scuff it. I don't even think it needs to be sanded all the way to bare metal. Just block it with 180 down to the dp. Then reprime watch flash time on the primer as well.

I read that too - I was in the window for a topcoat, I just assumed that feather fill was ok to go with. I assumed wrong. I used the same DP50 epoxy on the hood over a year ago, I lightly blocked it with 180 before doing the featherfill and that turned out fine. I think I just have to try the same process with the other stuff. I just am not sure how long to wait - I'm hoping 7 days is enough.

[67rstbkt]

featherfill is nothing more than sprayable bondo. Frankly, I do not like DP epoxy. It has no hold out or sealing properties, works about as good as edp does, it will rust right through it. I have always like Duponts 2500 series epoxy because of its excellent holdout and sealing properties. PPG recently added a high build DTM to their vibrance line, VP2050. On my latest project I have been using it and like it so far. Car was already in Dupont epoxy, I body worked it, then 2 coats VP2050 then waited 1 hour to top coat per specs and applied 3 coats VP2100, which is a sprayable polyester. I have already been using the VP2100, and like it alot.

I already bought all the stuff and have almost everything already covered in dp50 at this point. I'm going to attempt a small area with the featherfill over the epoxy (after lightly sanding and dry for a week) and report back on that. Thanks for the advice so far, really appreciate it. Other than the featherfill, everything else I have is PPG.

[MuscleRodz]

just let it sit overnight and you should be fine.

[HotRod47]

If you call the PPG tech line they will tell you when spraying a Poly primer over DP you should wait the full seven days for full cure of the epoxy. I have seen it fail, as you now have, when people put the poly on too soon. Epoxies are great, but anything that has a 7 days receipt window it super slow for cure.

That is why no issues on your hood, but failed on the parts you waited a short time on.

Try the newer DP-LV. I like it on bare metal, but unlike the DP-LF, the LV has build to it. It is also sandal, even powders up. I used it on several jobs now on bare steel, waited the proper times then block sanded it and did my filler work on top of it. Then reprise with amy good 2K primer.

[HotRod47]

featherfill is nothing more than sprayable bondo. Frankly, I do not like DP epoxy. It has no hold out or sealing properties, works about as good as edp does, it will rust right through it. I have always like Duponts 2500 series epoxy because of its excellent holdout and sealing properties. PPG recently added a high build DTM to their vibrance line, VP2050. On my latest project I have been using it and like it so far. Car was already in Dupont epoxy, I body worked it, then 2 coats VP2050 then waited 1 hour to top coat per specs and applied 3 coats VP2100, which is a sprayable polyester. I have already been using the VP2100, and like it alot.

First off, you are a pro and I am a hobbyist so take this as what it is, just my .02$. However, I am a guy that studies P sheets.

That being said, I really question you putting VP2100 over the VP2050 without sanding, and especially without waiting longer. Yes the P sheet says both Topcoat times and Recoat times are 1 hour @ 70*. But, it also states that if applying body filler over the VP2050 it should air dry over night and then a light sand. Now, I know some people don't think of Poly as body filler, but it really is nothing more than a sprayable filler.

I caution this process so you don't have issues down the road on some of your very nice jobs you do. That being said, if your PPG rep, or the tech line says that is the way to go and will back it, then by all means keep right on doing it.

[67rstbkt]

If you call the PPG tech line they will tell you when spraying a Poly primer over DP you should wait the full seven days for full cure of the epoxy. I have seen it fail, as you now have, when people put the poly on too soon. Epoxies are great, but anything that has a 7 days receipt window it super slow for cure.

That is why no issues on your hood, but failed on the parts you waited a short time on.

Try the newer DP-LV. I like it on bare metal, but unlike the DP-LF, the LV has build to it. It is also sandal, even powders up. I used it on several jobs now on bare steel, waited the proper times then block sanded it and did my filler work on top of it. Then reprise with amy good 2K primer.

Thanks for the tip - I will wait 7 days before applying the feather fill - I would try the other stuff, but I already bought and sprayed almost everything with the dp50lf. I have not sprayed any feather fill on anything else so I'll fix the fenders and hopefully move on. Do you know if there is any issue with time with my next step? - After the feather fill is sanded, I was going to apply PPG K-38 over it. I would hate to have an issue there too.

[Tincup]

FeatherFill can be tricky, If you have an bare metal from sanding, you should re-coat with Featherfill again, otherwise the breakthrough will show up. I have switched to Evercoat's Super Build, it's a DTM polyester primer, works much better and saves the step with putting the epoxy first.