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woody80z28
08-28-2015, 11:40 AM
I need to shave appx .100" off my pads to fit a .8" caliper over a 1" rotor on a custom application. Has anyone else done something similar? I figure I can't be the first one...

I'm sure 80 grit on a block would do the job, but my concern is keeping the surface completely flat so I don't get knockback. We have a Bridgeport at work, but I'm guessing GG friction material would probably dull a mill pretty quickly.

This is the last kink left to work out of an interchangeable 11.6"/13.4" rear rotor setup that is easily swappable for 18" street wheels and 15" drag wheels. Cause I like to go fast in turns AND a straight line! haha

dontlifttoshift
08-28-2015, 12:15 PM
You can mill them, wear a dust mask at least. I don't have any specific advice past that regarding milling pads.

Why not run them on the 13" rotors until they are thin enough and then that becomes your drag race set of pads.

Supposedly concrete driveway makes pads thinner in a hurry.

woody80z28
08-28-2015, 01:02 PM
I wish I could, but the street rotors are 13x1 and the drag rotors are 11x.8. And it's the .8 caliper I'm using because it bolts directly to the backing plate in drag mode and then to a bracket to space it out for the 13.4. And it has more swept area & piston dia than the Corvette 1" caliper & pad.

MonzaRacer
09-03-2015, 03:02 PM
You could use a stationary belt sander, make a guide frame to keep pads at min thickness, or even make something from metal , use pipe rollers at each end to be stop guide.
ANY time you grind a pad or shoe, do it wet, running water, to keep dust out of your lungs. Most new pads have some nasty products till "used" or cooked by wear of pads.

Twentyover
09-04-2015, 08:58 AM
Can you fabricate a spacer block opening up the caliper 0.2"?

woody80z28
09-05-2015, 05:07 AM
Wet is a good idea. Thanks.

A spacer would be very difficult. It's a one-piece cast caliper.