Ridetech stage 2 air ride question

[firebirdzig]

So I'm installing my front ridetech air ride suspension. On the driver side I can't get the lower a arm to fit. I can get each bushing in individually however when I go to install it I can't get both to fit. It looks like the back of the front crossmember needs to be moved back toward the rear of the car. There's a gap toward the front of the crossmember. The subframe is brand new. The passenger side fit and was installed w/o a problem. Any suggestions on how to mitigate this situation? Thanks for the help!

[dhutton]

Do you mean lower control arm? It sounds like you are describing the lower. Might be some help here if it is lower:

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/116409-My-Ride-Tech-lower-Strong-arms-are-too-narrow!

Don

[firebirdzig]

Thanks Don! I have no idea why I said upper A arms (who proof reads anyways, point shoot aim is my motto), I definitely meant lower. I checked out the link and looks like I'll be ordering some little screw jacks.

[Aaronbang]

Rather than using that screw jack, you could try some all-thread with 2 nuts and washers if you have the room to get wrenches in there

[Josh@Ridetech]

Firebirdzig,

What is the exact year, make, and model of your car? Also, when you're able to, give me the dimensions of the control arms' inside measurement (inner bushing to inner bushing).

Over time, it is possible that the mounts being tightened down tightened up the tolerances for the control arm mounts. Because we use delrin bushings, the dimensions need to be very close. The material isn't as forgiving as a poly bushing would be.

[firebirdzig]

Hey Josh,
It's a '68 pontiac firebird. The frame is brand new, bought it from Matts Claasic Bow ties (also where I bought the suspension from). I get off work tomorrow morning and I will send you the measurements then! I talked to Matt and he said sometimes the a arms can be tough to get in. I tried using a rubber mallet to tap it in with no luck.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Hey Josh,
It's a '68 pontiac firebird. The frame is brand new, bought it from Matts Claasic Bow ties (also where I bought the suspension from). I get off work tomorrow morning and I will send you the measurements then! I talked to Matt and he said sometimes the a arms can be tough to get in. I tried using a rubber mallet to tap it in with no luck.

Thanks alot! You're welcome to email me with the numbers that you come up with and pictures if you'd like - [email protected]

[Josh@Ridetech]

Replied to your emails, let me know what you come up with! I'll be leaving for a show tomorrow morning but I'll post back on here as soon as I get the chance.

[firebirdzig]

I ended up using the little screw jack and a hammer. It fits now, albeit tight, it fits. Just have to drill out the hole a bit where the top of the air shock goes through (the little plastic piece won't slide through to connect to the other plastic piece) and it'll be good to go. Thanks again for the help!

[Josh@Ridetech]

I ended up using the little screw jack and a hammer. It fits now, albeit tight, it fits. Just have to drill out the hole a bit where the top of the air shock goes through (the little plastic piece won't slide through to connect to the other plastic piece) and it'll be good to go. Thanks again for the help!

Good to hear! Post up some pictures of the car :headbang:

and you're welcome!

[bret]

I ended up using the little screw jack and a hammer. It fits now, albeit tight, it fits. Just have to drill out the hole a bit where the top of the air shock goes through (the little plastic piece won't slide through to connect to the other plastic piece) and it'll be good to go. Thanks again for the help!

While you should NOT have to go through such gyrations to get our control arms installed, you apparently have a stacking of tolerances that have contributed to the situation. While your subframe is "new", I believe it is a reproduction of the OEM unit. The reproduction manufacturer had to model his product off of an original and "unmolested" subframe. This is harder than it sounds. OEM chassis and body components were NOT computer modeled until well into the 80's, therefore there are no digital drawings available. Hand drawn prints were used to build jigs, prototype units, and subsequent production parts. Even if the reproduction subframe manufacturer used a truly unmolested component to create their product, the oem tolerances could have been to the high side or low side [or a combination of both] and still been "within spec". Add to that the inevitable manufacturing tolerances that exist to this day [although much smaller than 50 years ago] ...AND the inevitable manufacturing tolerances of mating product form other manufacturers [ours in this case] and it is not hard to imagine coming up a few thousandths of an inch from a perfect fit.
I explain this not to deflect responsibility for proper fitment away from us or the subframe manufacturer but simply to explain to the rest of the forum how these situations come to be. Fortunately todays design and manufacturing processes have minimized these situations for newer cars...those parts are relatively easy to prototype and build for proper fitment.
Isn't hotrodding wonderful! :)

[firebirdzig]

If everything was perfect and easy it would take away some of the fun and pride of the finished product.