bpmack16
08-06-2015, 03:56 PM
So I have been looking around and can't make up my mind. Any thoughts on good reputable trailing arms?
POL
brothers trucks
Porterbuilt
Ex......
RobNoLimit
08-07-2015, 04:58 AM
It depends what your doing. DD, drag, cruise or handling. The assembly of the rear axle and two trailing arms work as one unit. they almost form a triangle. ALMOST. (It would be better if they did form a triangle, for axle motion, but then it's tough to get the driveshaft to work). This may get a little confusing. For the best handling/drive quality, you want the axle to be free to move up/down, and to rotate, or 'tip' side to side. The links (or arms) should hold the axle front/back on the Center Line, and control the pinion angle, have a locator to hold the axle side to side. We use springs, shocks, and sway bars to control the total roll stiffness. If the Trailing arms are too rigid, the axle can't 'tip' or if it does, it's binding the trailing arm bushings, and this becomes very difficult to dial in. The OE arm, and it's 'I' beam design is designed to twist to allow the axle to tip. Urethane bushings may help here to stop for/aft motion and some axle steer issues. But, if you swap to a tubular (round or square) trailing arm - these don't twist - then a hard bushing is a bad idea, as it increases the bind in 'tip'. These are OK for drag cars, I suppose, but even a drag car would benefit from free motion. The best arm assembly would be a tubular arm with an adjustable pivoting mount bushing, like a Monster Ball or a Johnny Joint. This would give you accurate axle placement, limited rear steer, and free motion.
Wes.Drelleshak
08-09-2015, 11:55 AM
I've run the set up Rob is talking about for years and had some good times with it. I used large Johnny Joints modified to fit on the ends of CPP Trailing Arms. That set up worked OK. It was only after I switched to No Limit Engineering's Three-Link and tested it via the Road Course, autocross, Speed stop, street and realized the huge performance gains a 3-link can offer. A well designed Three link is key to applying power out of a corner and that's where most trucks suffer from oversteer. Hope this helps. ~WesD
Another thing about truck arms is that they take up a lot of room under the truck. Makes it tough to fit an exhaust. I plan to swap out to 3-link when I build my new frame.
GEARBOXGARAGE
08-13-2015, 10:49 AM
If your factory arms are in good shape, you can stitch weld the seems every few inches or so to stiffen them up and then use the Hotchkis swivel ball kit. This is a budget alternative to expensive aftermarket arms that is effective.
http://www.hotchkis.net/product/1963-1972-c-10-swivel-max-bushing-upgrade-from-hotchkis-sport-suspension/?mk=47&yr=1971&md=1998&sm=20
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