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View Full Version : should this rotor be tighter around my studs? Wilwood integrated emerg brake/Moser



cactuss4
06-28-2015, 12:22 PM
I have 7/16 studs and what I initially worried was my diff making noise, it's actually the brake rotor moving back and forth around my studs. This makes me nervous, I don't seem to be able to get it tight enough to stop this and I think this will end up snapping my studs.

Feel free to tell me I'm worrying myself over nothing, or if you have advice on how to rectify. I believe I'm in the right holes in the drum/rotor or whatever.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUQ7KUmpXto

Thanks
Tory
66 Chevelle

cactuss4
06-28-2015, 01:37 PM
Eh.... So I think this is right, would be nice if they were tighter, but if I put a nut with no wheel it seats as it should. With wheel I can't get the lugnut to seat against the drum/rotor and thus the rotor/drum is allowed to move back and forth. So my center bore of my wheel is wrong with the Moser or.. actually it's just the center bore of the wheel is wrong, but they were ordered custom , not sure where it got messed up. the seem to mount okay, but the lug nut does not seem to bite through the wheel to lock the rotor/drum... Fully torqued the drum still moves back and forth freely..

cactuss4
06-28-2015, 02:11 PM
Eh.... So I think this is right, would be nice if they were tighter, but if I put a nut with no wheel it seats as it should. With wheel I can't get the lugnut to seat against the drum/rotor and thus the rotor/drum is allowed to move back and forth. So my center bore of my wheel is wrong with the Moser or.. actually it's just the center bore of the wheel is wrong, but they were ordered custom , not sure where it got messed up. the seem to mount okay, but the lug nut does not seem to bite through the wheel to lock the rotor/drum... Fully torqued the drum still moves back and forth freely.. I'l try a different lug nut, but these are open acorn style, no reason they are not biting, unless the wheel is not flush with the drum, let me try a paper test ", well crap, looks like I have about .072" between wheel and drum face, which means the nuts are not going to tighten up against the hub/drum

bah

gray86hach
06-28-2015, 02:32 PM
The wheel will hold it tight. With 5 nuts on the wheel if the rotor is still moving you have way more problems.

ChevelleNV
06-28-2015, 03:55 PM
once the tire is on it will be tight and wont move

icemanrd19
06-28-2015, 07:29 PM
proper tq and you shouldn't hear it but yes that doesn't sorta still and can cause noise.

What about putting a collar/ sleeve that slides over the stud that takes up the difference between the stud and the rotor? Drive it and see if there noise is still there. get a piece of pipe and cut a small section off the engine of it making something like this .. http://www.fixthatferguson.com/images/181257M1.jpg

Apogee
06-29-2015, 07:05 AM
The rotor looks to be hub-centric, so wheel stud hole clearance is irrelevant. The clamping force between the wheel and hub will lock everything in place. There are several examples of OE applications with far larger rotor to wheel stud clearances...the 98-02 F-body comes to mind. They used the same rotors on the GM and Holden variants of that platform, for which the former used the typical 5x4.75" [5x120.65mm] wheel pattern, the latter used a 5x118mm [5x4.646"] pattern, and they just oversized the holes so they'd fit both.

Tobin
KORE3

TheJDMan
06-29-2015, 07:43 PM
I would switch to 1/2" studs.

Apogee
06-30-2015, 08:29 AM
I would run larger studs too, but not for the reason of tighter fitment between the stud and hat, but rather for the greater lug nut torque used with either an M12x1.50 or 1/2-20 stud. The higher the preload torque, the greater the clamping force between the wheel and hub/axle flange, the less chance you have of ever exceeding those preload stresses while driving.

Tobin
KORE3

cactuss4
07-03-2015, 01:38 PM
Well finally got some time at my friends machine shop. the wheels had an Id of 2.8, the Moser hub has an OD of 3.06 to match Wilwood requirements. So we had to take a bit of metal off and I took it down .175" which is how deep the hub is. I now have hub centric wheels that fit well, and as they should. i didn't catch this earlier but I'm glad I did and glad we got it fixed. the RIM ID was pretty small..

Off to the next project..

Tory