Advise on a Car Trailer?

[MattG]

So I'm in the market for an open trailer for my '69 Camaro. Typical trips to the drag strip and to an occasional far away road course or autocross. I think an 18' will do with dual brakes. Just need something safe and affordable. Any ideas or tips?

Matt

[TheJDMan]

Matt,
I know you said open trailer but consider this, you can use an enclosed trailer for storage when it's not in use not to mention the car is completely protected while towing. I store my garden tractors in my 20ft enclosed trailer when the car is in the garage. That said, I recommend going to http://www.racingjunk.com/ and look at the trailer classified section. You can find all shapes and sizes of trailers both new and used there. Two things I recommend regardless of open or enclosed, a beavertail floor and 5200# axles.

[MattG]

Thanks Steve, BTW, we need to meet up sometime. Not too far away from each other...racing junk has opened up some options for sure!

Matt

[Z06vet]

If you go with an open trailer, get the 4ft dove tail. Anything shorter is likely to drag the headers or exhaust. Same goes for the ramps, the longer they are, the smoother the transition, the better the clearance.

[FlyDoc]

I have had 18' trailers, & felt that it was to small, by the time you get your car on there is no room left for accessories.
I currently have an 28' enclosed, 24' of usable space, 1' for the V-nose, & 3' of tongue, with the ramp door. I really like this trailer, for your description on use I think you would like one also. my plan is to put some cabinets in, an A/C, awnings on both sides, generator, and a fridge.
my son sleeps in it when he goes to his 4wheeler races.

[TheJDMan]

Matt,
Like I mentioned, I have a 20ft enclosed trailer but only because I had a 1/2 ton shortbed pickup at the time I purchased it. Now that I have a 2500HD Duramax I would buy a 24ft next time around. The longer the trailer is the more difficult it becomes to maneuver in tight places and with an enclosed trailer the longer it is the more you feel side winds on the hiway.

I would like to meet up some time. I used to work in Chantilly and my commute there was about 80 miles one way everyday. We have a big local cruise in every friday evening at the local DQ. Maybe you can cruise down one weekend.

[nokones]

If you go with an open trailer, get the 4ft dove tail. Anything shorter is likely to drag the headers or exhaust. Same goes for the ramps, the longer they are, the smoother the transition, the better the clearance.

In addition to ZO6's input, don't forget about the fenders insofar as clearance for at least the driver's door, if you don't want to crawl in and out of the window. A couple of designs are a hinged fender or a removable fender. Back in my open trailer days, I solved that problem with a winch to get the car on and off the trailer and I am using the same concept with my enclosed trailer.

Before you select the trailer you want to buy, try to figure out the amount of weight you will be hauling with the trailer. That includes if you have a tire rack on the front, the car, and any stuff you throw in the car while you are driving to and from events. My open trailer had a rock shield in front with a tire rack overhead. Behind the rock shield, I hauled my gas containers between the shield and the car.

After you figure out the max weight that will be on the trailer, make sure that the axle and tire ratings are more than adequate. Do not use passenger vehicle rated tires on your trailer. I recommend that you have serviceable bearings and not the sealed type bearings because they will fail in the middle of the desert. Always carry spare bearings and grease because you will need it. Do not exceed 75% of the rated capacity of the trailer to allow for windage and other unknown factors in order to not over weigh your trailer rating capacity.

Don't forget to check your tongue weight and the rating capacity of your hitch receiver and hitch mount. Also, the towing vehicle is very critical. If you are towing with a half-ton pickup, make sure that you do not exceed the gross combined vehicle weight rating (GCVWR). After you get everything loaded on the trailer and in back of the pickup, fill up the tank and take your rig to a public scale not mean weigh it. Most scales only charge $10 without a certified weight ticket. Again, do not exceed 75% of the GCVWR. If you exceed the capacity rating and you are able to pull and stop the vehicle combination, does not mean it is OK to drive and not expect some serious problems later especially if you get involved in an accident. You will be civilly liable for your action

If you have a set of corner weight scales, weigh your tongue with the trailer fully loaded. If you don't have a set of scales, weigh your tongue by setting it on the public platform scale with both the trailer and truck are off the platform.

If you are towing with a half-ton pickup, make sure that you have a tranny cooler and a heavy duty radiator. More than likely if you tow your trailer a lot, you will be going through a few tranny and rear diff overhauls. Also, you probably be going through more brakes pad/shoes.

If the trailer has a surge brake system, keep an eye on the brake fluid. If the trailer has a electric brake system, I would get a Prodigy brake controller. Weight distribution bars will help a lot on the tongue weight and the stability while driving.

[MattG]

Wow Kenny, lots of good info there! Thanks for all of the info and it will be very helpful in my choice of a trailer.

Matt

[Jody SS]

I have an enclosed trailer. What I learned from having it:

If I could do it over again I would get a Featherlite trailer. Aluminum is the way to go. My steel frame needs to be painted every year do to rust.
Kenny pretty much covered everything else.