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minendrews68
06-08-2015, 05:16 PM
GEEZ! I'm block sanding the new body panels on my Camaro. I've never seen so many small dents in new panels. Not really big or deep dents, just the shallow ones that give you a fit! I bet I've used a case of guide coat so far, does everyone have this problem?

dhutton
06-09-2015, 03:36 AM
What are you blocking? Slicksand or something similar? I like to use Z-Chrome Rust Defender, the first coat has a built in guide coat. It builds nicely and sands relatively nicely. Lots of guys like to use Slicksand.

Don

minendrews68
06-09-2015, 06:23 AM
I'm using different guide coat labels. I am blocking the deck lid at the moment. I'm also using Evercoat blending putty to fill the low spots. These "low" spots are not very deep at all, I just think if I'm going to paint this car black anything will show up. Using the guide coat to find high and low spots when blocking. I also filled the seams around the rear tail light panel and the rear panel below the back window. When I get to where I think it's smooth, I will block sand back down to almost nothing (short of the low spots) and then prime with Metal Lok. It is a two part epoxy primer that can go over bare metal. I've never heard of slicksand, I'll have to look it up. I also used a zinc chromate self etching primer on the low spots I filled. Funny, I used to paint quite a bit about 30+ years ago, a lot has changed in the way of materials...

CampbellshotrodsAZ
06-09-2015, 07:26 AM
Yeah, I noticed that last weekend. I removed the door skin for my 71 Firebird because of some poor prior repairs. I thought, sweet, I'll put a new skin on and it'll be like a brand new door, put it on and go. Had the skin laying up against the car, the sun caught it in the right light, and wow, the whole top edge was super wavy. Going to see what I can hammer out before I put it on. Not too pleased with that, was hoping to not have filler in it, but it's looking like I'll need a lot.

dhutton
06-09-2015, 08:57 AM
I'm using different guide coat labels. I am blocking the deck lid at the moment. I'm also using Evercoat blending putty to fill the low spots. These "low" spots are not very deep at all, I just think if I'm going to paint this car black anything will show up. Using the guide coat to find high and low spots when blocking. I also filled the seams around the rear tail light panel and the rear panel below the back window. When I get to where I think it's smooth, I will block sand back down to almost nothing (short of the low spots) and then prime with Metal Lok. It is a two part epoxy primer that can go over bare metal. I've never heard of slicksand, I'll have to look it up. I also used a zinc chromate self etching primer on the low spots I filled. Funny, I used to paint quite a bit about 30+ years ago, a lot has changed in the way of materials...

Spray the whole car with a coat of slicksand or rust defender. They are high build polyester primers. Rust Defender can be applied to bare metal. Then block it all at once with the longest block you can. Doing it piecemeal like that will not get it straight in my experience. Not sure what blending putty is but if it is a 1K (no hardener) product I would not be using it....

Etch primer has been largely replaced by epoxy primers. Check out southernpolyurethanes.com

Don

minendrews68
06-09-2015, 10:00 AM
Ironically, I don't use anything that doesn't require a gardner. (except for the guide coat), which usually gets sanded away.

ok that's Hardener, not Gardner......

dhutton
06-09-2015, 10:28 AM
Ironically, I don't use anything that doesn't require a gardner. (except for the guide coat), which usually gets sanded away.

Check out 3M's dry guide coat. It is a great product.

Don

minendrews68
06-09-2015, 01:45 PM
Just did, that looks interesting.. now if I could find someone that worked as cheap as I do lol.