LS7 in a 66 chevelle. Modifying the crossmember...

[scott_fx]

Hey guys,

I am having a shop do an install on my 66 chevelle. Originally I had planned on a budget lq9 build but the shop gave me a good deal on an ls7 pull from a z06 (i gave him a lot of work based on my referrals). He ran into a stumbling block with the dry sump system and is trying to come up with the best solution with modifying the crossmember to clear the pan. He is thinking of fabbing up a tubular 'patch' to reinforce the cut down crossmember. This sounds like a good idea to me, but i was curious as to what others have done? Due to a purchase of a new house, I don't have the extra ~$1,300+ for the aftermarket dry sump pan and his labor was negotiated into the swap. So... that's where we are at right now. As for the use of the car. I'm building a grand-touring/pro-touring chevell. I have sc&c pro touring suspension, 18x10 and 18x8 bonspeed wheels, kore3/c6 brakes, and a ls7/t56. Track time would be limited and amateur at best (would like to get it on the track, but it will be my first time). The car will see most of it time as a cruiser/tourer.

So... what have you guys done?


Thanks!

[1BADBET]

How close is the motor to the firewall? They have set back engine mounts if moving it back would solve the issue, if not I've seen many notched crossmembers just make sure it's reinforced properly and it won't be a problem.

[Schwartz Performance]

I think we bored the cross member and welded a tube into one we did about 6-7 years ago.

-Dale

[Jmcc214]

Hey Scott. I'm curious to know what you ended up doing ? I'll be running close to the same set up you doing but I'm way behind you. And also how did that teams fit?

[scott_fx]

Hey Scott. I'm curious to know what you ended up doing ? I'll be running close to the same set up you doing but I'm way behind you. And also how did that teams fit?

We ended up going with a modified x-member. I'm not sure about the specifics but I should be out there in the next 2 weeks to check it out. I'll take some pics for you. When i get the car back i can take measurements for you too. We are moving x-country so the timer is ticking away. Should have the car done shortly!

[Jmcc214]

Hey Scott. I'm curious to know what you ended up doing ? I'll be running close to the same set up you doing but I'm way behind you. And also how did that teams fit?
We ended up going with a modified x-member. I'm not sure about the specifics but I should be out there in the next 2 weeks to check it out. I'll take some pics for you. When i get the car back i can take measurements for you too. We are moving x-country so the timer is ticking away. Should have the car done shortly!
Scott
'66 Chevelle

Ok sounds great and good luck on the car and move.

[Bonehead]

Not a fan of cutting up a chassis to cure a pan problem. There are several pans that are confirmed to fit on the 66-7 a body. I did a write up on three pans over on another site. (if you want the link drop me a message. I wont post it here). Truck pan, CTS-V pan and the Canton road race pan. Bottom line is, the Canton pan fit. Cleared the cross member, had no issues with lock to lock on the drag link/TRE and did not hang below the cross member. PLUS it works for stroker motors. The holley 302-2 pan has had the same success if you don't need the clearance for the stroker.

[scott_fx]

It's a dry sump ls7. Those pans won't work in it

[jlcustomz]

Scott, when I did my Ls1 G-body install back in 02' with an f- body pan, I cut out the slightly small rear section of the factory crossmember & boxed it back in with I think 3/16" plate. Seems to have held up ok. Couldn't tell any cornering feel difference after modding the weak g-body setup, which I plan on building my own triangular front cross braces anyways.

There was no muscle car pan, bla bla options in early 02', & several older guys told me back then if done properly, no problem. Some people fabricate, others swap parts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1094.photobucket.com/user/jlcustomz1/media/DSC00605.jpg.html)

Also cut out & boxed in the factory curve in the frame behind the factory idler arm for AC clutch clearance. Factory ac compressor was larger than the aftermarket sanden pictured.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1094.photobucket.com/user/jlcustomz1/media/DSC00601.jpg.html)

[scott_fx]

thanks for the vote of confidence! Hopefully i'll get to check it out this weekend.
thanks for the pics too! i'll post up some of mine (when it's done) to help out the community as well.

thanks again


Scott, when I did my Ls1 G-body install back in 02' with an f- body pan, I cut out the slightly small rear section of the factory crossmember & boxed it back in with I think 3/16" plate. Seems to have held up ok. Couldn't tell any cornering feel difference after modding the weak g-body setup, which I plan on building my own triangular front cross braces anyways.

There was no muscle car pan, bla bla options in early 02', & several older guys told me back then if done properly, no problem. Some people fabricate, others swap parts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1094.photobucket.com/user/jlcustomz1/media/DSC00605.jpg.html)

Also cut out & boxed in the factory curve in the frame behind the factory idler arm for AC clutch clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s1094.photobucket.com/user/jlcustomz1/media/DSC00601.jpg.html)

[jlcustomz]

Anything to stay in good graces of a graphic artist. :cheers:

I know an 83 el camino with f-body pan won't be the same as yours, but at least it's food for thought.
A front crossover's primary function is to connect one side of the frame to another while adding rigidity to the front of the chassis. Stamped steel was the factory method, but any proper modification or complete aftermarket fabrication providing equal or better than factory rigidity will work