Is there a Wilwood master cylinder pressure bleeding adaptor, can someone make one?:

[cactuss4]

There are a few reasons the Wilwood Master cylinders make me mad. No insight into them without pulling 4 fasteners and no way to use a power bleeder..

So with all the 3D printing tech now, how hard would it to come up with a semi opaque cover with a vacuum port/pressure port in order to use a motive type pressure bleeder? it would make it so much more convenient if I could just pump a few times, go to the back of the vehicle, open it and watch all the air come farting out. Close it, go to the next or go verify fluid level and add some pressure.

I'm hoping I've just overlooked this, since these type of MC's have been out for a long time, and while they look "cool", they are not very mechanic friendly.

Yes since there is no screw the seal would be interesting thing to overcome.
Yes I'm playing with my brakes again today, hydroboost is all hooked up and I'm working on bleeding it as I'm getting soft pedal than kick back and a slow return. But I need to make sure my brakes have no air as well since those lines were open for a week or so

Tory

[Hydratech®]

I viewed the images in your other post and noticed that you are running braided stainless flex hose instead of standard brake hard lines from the Wilwood knob adjustable proportion valve. I don't know how much flex hose you are running, but anything more than what is needed at the front wheels / rear axle (to accommodate suspension movement) is going to strongly contribute to always having a spongy pedal. If you have more flex hose installed throughout the vehicle than the combined total of the required flex hose (say 10" at the right front / 10" at the left front, and 10" at the rear axle), you will never achieve a firm / crisp pedal response. If you have possibly plumbed the entire vehicle with flex hose, then don't beat yourself senseless trying to remove the sponginess out of your brake response (as you never will get a good solid pedal until you replace everything with hard lines)...

[cactuss4]

I viewed the images in your other post and noticed that you are running braided stainless flex hose instead of standard brake hard lines from the Wilwood knob adjustable proportion valve. I don't know how much flex hose you are running, but anything more than what is needed at the front wheels / rear axle (to accommodate suspension movement) is going to strongly contribute to always having a spongy pedal. If you have more flex hose installed throughout the vehicle than the combined total of the required flex hose (say 10" at the right front / 10" at the left front, and 10" at the rear axle), you will never achieve a firm / crisp pedal response. If you have possibly plumbed the entire vehicle with flex hose, then don't beat yourself senseless trying to remove the sponginess out of your brake response (as you never will get a good solid pedal until you replace everything with hard lines)...

Thanks Paul your insight is appreciated.

I have flex line only from the front prop valve to junctions at the wheel well, drivers side and hard line from there to the pass side, so only a couple ' in each connection from prop to the various connections (rear is right under the firewall, driver side is well right there and pass is also run to the drivers side where it picks up a hard line that goes through the frame (Cross member) to the other side. So again it's only in that area that I'm using the flex. Well I'm getting better at bending line, so maybe it's time to start considering replacing it all with hardline. As I know each section is 2' currently.

Thanks again!
Tory

[benno505]

Just installed the hydratech unit in my charger, had the same symptoms as you describe.
only exeption is i had flex line only from chassis to caliper on both fronts and flex line from body to diff so max 4 foot all up.
anyway i replaced all my hard lines just to be sure, then bench bled the master cylinder, then installed it and pumped it up a few times, then went around and loosened all my bleeder screws, went in and made a scotch and there was brake fluid puddles on the ground where my wheels were, so itghtened all of the screws up, got the wifey to jump and and did a final bleed and voila all good. still get pump whine for some reason though.

[cactuss4]

Just installed the hydratech unit in my charger, had the same symptoms as you describe.
only exeption is i had flex line only from chassis to caliper on both fronts and flex line from body to diff so max 4 foot all up.
anyway i replaced all my hard lines just to be sure, then bench bled the master cylinder, then installed it and pumped it up a few times, then went around and loosened all my bleeder screws, went in and made a scotch and there was brake fluid puddles on the ground where my wheels were, so itghtened all of the screws up, got the wifey to jump and and did a final bleed and voila all good. still get pump whine for some reason though.

Thank you sir, that helps. Ya I just replaced all my flex line except to the caliper at each corner, including removing a bunch in the rear. (ran out of copper though). So will finish it up tomorrow. I had whine until I got the system fairly well bled and then I noticed my belt was slipping (marked the belt and the pulley started it left to right, brakes, shut it down and the marks didn't match), fixed that and it seemed to fix the whine, but I still had very little bite at each corner and the kick back was pretty annoying, soft soft hard kickback.. really terrible feel.

I also replaced my pump with a dual inlet pump so no T.

Thanks Paul (hydratech) for the kick in the pants, you were not the first, but I guess I still needed to remove more Flex line. So after tomorrow it will be hard line except for the small piece to the caliper.

Tory

[JustJohn]

I wondered about using a Motive bleeder myself (mine is ~ 13 years old). I called and there is a longer adapter plate, PN 1115, which is 5" x 8.8". Should work?

The 3-D printer is not a bad idea though. We have one here at work that I can play with. Only issue is material. I can print with ABS and don't know how that stands up to brake fluid.

[JustJohn]

I wondered about using a Motive bleeder myself (mine is ~ 13 years old). I called and there is a longer adapter plate, PN 1115, which is 5" x 8.8". Should work?

The 3-D printer is not a bad idea though. We have one here at work that I can play with. Only issue is material. I can print with ABS and don't know how that stands up to brake fluid.

Just settled my own question about ABS plastic - No.

Easiest route is either the adapter from Motive, which I'm ordering, or just buy a new cover from Wilwood and tap a hole in it.

[cactuss4]

Just settled my own question about ABS plastic - No.

Easiest route is either the adapter from Motive, which I'm ordering, or just buy a new cover from Wilwood and tap a hole in it.

I thought about tapping the hole, but with the rubber gasket/seal in there, I'm not sure it would work and removing it would remove the seal around the edges, so doubt that would work, so have to get a gasket and cut it as well as a new top. I looked for the motive but it seemed to be for a rectangle top where wilwood is proprietary. It's probably on them to make something but after all this time, I guess we know where they stand on that.

Tory

[JustJohn]

The Motive adapter will completely cover the Wilwood MC and seal it. Shape here is not an issue as the adapter surface is completely flat and you are just loading a compressible gasket. The old one I had almost worked - it was just too short and wouldn't hold pressure at the ends.

I opted to just order a sheet of 1/8" silicone sheet and made a plate out of aluminum. Tap two holes and run to a distribution block, hold down with a c-clamp. Works fine.

[cactuss4]

Interesting thank you sir. Love to see spoof what you came up with. A distribution block?

[JustJohn]

The plumbing name for it is a brass tee (you could probably also do it with a rear brake distribution block).

I'll try to get a picture up in the next few days.


Interesting thank you sir. Love to see spoof what you came up with. A distribution block?

[JustJohn]

114393Had some time finally (and a cracked fitting).

Here it is holding pressure:

[cactuss4]

ahh nice ,ya I went ahead and bought the wilwood "plate" have not used it but wanted to cover all my bases with the trouble I was having. Think I'm beyond it, but going to keep it for future needs.

Thanks for posting!