Aftermarket FNSL6R Wilwood rotors?

[Buryingthesun]

Hello Pro Touring forum!

I was wondering if anyone knew of any other brands that make replacement rotors for my FNSL6R kit. I opted for the slotted rotors being I don't care for the looks and "supposed" need for drilled rotors. These rotors are a 12 bolt inner circle part numbers are located below. My main reasoning is they are $200/rotor with racing compound pads im going to eat through these rotors in no time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/GT48CurvedVaneRotor12bltlg-1.jpg





Left Hand - Part No:
160-12962 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-12962)


Right Hand - Part No:
160-12961 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-12961)

[Buryingthesun]

Guess not ��

[dontlifttoshift]

What pads are you running? The GT rotors hold up very well with either the BP or the E pads. The only set that I have replaced were because we ran out of pad and were using the backing plates to stop. The rotors currently on that car have been on two full seasons and still look great.

You could try coleman, but I would be surprised if they were much cheaper.

[Buryingthesun]

What pads are you running? The GT rotors hold up very well with either the BP or the E pads. The only set that I have replaced were because we ran out of pad and were using the backing plates to stop. The rotors currently on that car have been on two full seasons and still look great.

You could try coleman, but I would be surprised if they were much cheaper.

I plan on running Hawk DTC 60 race pads at the track (road course)

I've seen what they do to my buddy's stop tech rotors lol

[dontlifttoshift]

There are a lot of factors that go into that, car weight, rotor size, where it was driven, etc. Race pads on the street will kill rotors quickly. You are not using the friction to stop, just abrasion, if that makes sense.

Try the E pads. I don't think you will be disappointed.

[Buryingthesun]

There are a lot of factors that go into that, car weight, rotor size, where it was driven, etc. Race pads on the street will kill rotors quickly. You are not using the friction to stop, just abrasion, if that makes sense.

Try the E pads. I don't think you will be disappointed.

I will look into them! Thanks

[Ron Sutton]

Donny is offering a lot of good advice & I have had the same experiences.

For the Wilwood brake packages I configure for my clients, we typically run BP-10 pads on the street ... and with the right pedal ratio, piston area in the calipers & correct M/C size have 3200#+ braking force ... which my clients love. For autocross days, they swap in their "E" pads ... not because they create any more braking force ... but because they work well at colder temps seen in autocross. If they do serious road course track days often, they swap in BP-20 pads ... which do offer more braking force (we're getting 3600#+) and handle the higher temps seen from road course runs.

None of those pads eat rotors. The BP-10's are optimum for street use as they are inexpensive, easiest on rotors, don't dust up too much & long lasting. The E's & BP-20s will dust up some, cost "a little" more & we use them for a specific purpose, not everyday driving.

But ... if you don't have enough piston area, insufficient pedal ratio and/or incorrect M/C size ... then you can't make these pad combos work. You're stuck running race pads to get enough stopping force. Then you're spending 3-4 times as much for pads ... that wear out 2-3 times quicker ... and eat up rotors in the process. All because they're so abrasive. But if your brake system is configured well, you don't need that aggressive of a brake pad.

If you want us to discuss your brake system, post your:
Caliper piston area:
master cylinder bore:
Pedal ratio:
Rotor diameter:

[Buryingthesun]

Donny is offering a lot of good advice & I have had the same experiences.

For the Wilwood brake packages I configure for my clients, we typically run BP-10 pads on the street ... and with the right pedal ratio, piston area in the calipers & correct M/C size have 3200#+ braking force ... which my clients love. For autocross days, they swap in their "E" pads ... not because they create any more braking force ... but because they work well at colder temps seen in autocross. If they do serious road course track days often, they swap in BP-20 pads ... which do offer more braking force (we're getting 3600#+) and handle the higher temps seen from road course runs.

None of those pads eat rotors. The BP-10's are optimum for street use as they are inexpensive, easiest on rotors, don't dust up too much & long lasting. The E's & BP-20s will dust up some, cost "a little" more & we use them for a specific purpose, not everyday driving.

But ... if you don't have enough piston area, insufficient pedal ratio and/or incorrect M/C size ... then you can't make these pad combos work. You're stuck running race pads to get enough stopping force. Then you're spending 3-4 times as much for pads ... that wear out 2-3 times quicker ... and eat up rotors in the process. All because they're so abrasive. But if your brake system is configured well, you don't need that aggressive of a brake pad.

If you want us to discuss your brake system, post your:
Caliper piston area:
master cylinder bore:
Pedal ratio:
Rotor diameter:



Ron thank you for chiming in! I have so many questions as im still building my car. My front brake kit came with the BP-10 pads from Wilwood.

Here is a quick run down on my set-up, The front will be a standard out of the box Wilwood FNSL6R 12.88" rotor kit p/n 140-9803 The rears are my own concoction of Wilwood FNSL4R calipers and factory G8/2010+ Camaro rear brakes. I will be running that IRS rear suspension in my 1967 Firebird, I will retain the G8/Camaro rotors and adapt the FNSL6R calipers with my own brackets. As for master cylinders I have yet to determine what I need, I have not found the math to determine sizing yet. I am also running the Wilwood 3-pedal box with an adjustable bias bar p/n 340-12411 with a pedal ratio of 5.25:1

FRONT*
Caliper piston area: 4.04
master cylinder bore: Undertermined
Pedal ratio: 5.25:1
Rotor Diameter: 12.88"

REAR*
Caliper piston area: 1.96
master cylinder bore: Undetermined
Pedal ratio: 5.25:1
Rotor diameter: 12.76"


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is the first brake system I have put together from scratch.