Budget front end rebuild

[69Nova]

Pulling the car apart for a front end makeover shortly. Trying to make sure I do everything I can to get the front end better than before. Currently the car has the Hotchkis TVS kit and normal street shocks.

-The ball joints, tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves, idler arm and pitman arm all have about 6,000 miles on them so the plan to to inspect and re-install them unless they seem worn out.
-Going to re-use stock control arms until I can afford new upper and lower arms.
-Re-use hotchkis springs
-New Ridetech HQ shocks
-New bushings control arm bushings(energy suspension)
-Re-use hotchkis swaybar
-New disc brakes from SSBC with spindels.

What else should I be doing to get the most out of the front end on a budget? Not doing the G-Mod since I will replace the control arms in the future.

[wendell]

I'd swap in a+1/2" Howe ball joint and set of Delrin bushings, forget about the fancy control arms and call it done.

[68Formula]

Whether you do the G-mod or not, has nothing to do with control arms; unless the ones you choose have taller ball joints installed.

[another69]

Yeah Delrin is good but stay away from poly for bushings except maybe for the swaybar. SC&C has some decent options for budget suspension rebuilds

[69Nova]

Whether you do the G-mod or not, has nothing to do with control arms; unless the ones you choose have taller ball joints installed.

I was reading David Pozzi's website and it says you will have to trim to the old holes for clearance and cannot return to the old holes unless you weld material back on. So that's why I was thinking that. Tubular arms bolt into the factory location correct? Possibly I am mis understanding what he wrote? Or maybe there is better info????

[68Formula]

I was reading David Pozzi's website and it says you will have to trim to the old holes for clearance and cannot return to the old holes unless you weld material back on. So that's why I was thinking that. Tubular arms bolt into the factory location correct? Possibly I am mis understanding what he wrote? Or maybe there is better info????

There are versions of the G mod. The one on Pozzi's site drops the control arm lower (I think it's closer to an inch), which is probably why you have to trim.

I believe the latest version seen here would not requiring trimming: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/0607phr-car-handling-tech/
Drop is only 0.75."

DSE had (at least when I bought mine), their own version, but I don't know how that compares to the G-mod in the above link . IIRC their template had less caster, since it was already extra built into the arms, and the drop might have been more like the 0.75" G-mod. It was a while ago though.

[69Nova]

I'd swap in a+1/2" Howe ball joint and set of Delrin bushings, forget about the fancy control arms and call it done.

Any experience/data with this? How does it compare to the g-mod? I'm no expert but seems like it would have a different affect vs moving the upper or lower a arm. Not trying to discredit anything just want to learn and make the best possible choice.

[69Nova]

There are versions of the G mod. The one on Pozzi's site drops the control arm lower (I think it's closer to an inch), which is probably why you have to trim.

I believe the latest version seen here would not requiring trimming: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/0607phr-car-handling-tech/
Drop is only 0.75."

DSE had (at least when I bought mine), their own version, but I don't know how that compares to the G-mod in the above link . IIRC their template had less caster, since it was already extra built into the arms, and the drop might have been more like the 0.75" G-mod. It was a while ago though.

Am I correct in thinking that there is no welding or cutting involved with the method you linked? So if I wanted to go back stock it would be as simple as using the stock holes. Absorbing too much into from too many places and trying to make sure I understand everything.

[68Formula]

You can go back to the stock holes with that template.

[69Nova]

Ok thanks.