Wiring side marker and parking lights with AAW Power Plus 20 '69 Firebird

[jlwdvm]

I'm wiring up the front end of my 60 firebird track car with an AAW Power Plus 20 kit since a 69 firebird specific kit isn't available. I have the headlights wired up and the turn signals wired as well. The kit has a single wire coming from the fuse panel to wire up parking lights. The 69 firebird also has a small side marker light on the front side corner of the front fender. Any ideas on how to wire the side marker light and parking light up on each front corner of the car with only 1 "parking light" wire coming from the fuse block? If I wire everything in series will this be too much of a load for 1 wire? Any ideas ohttps://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111028&stc=1https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111029&stc=1n how to splice this together? Thanks!

[Sean Cooke]

T- the running light off at each parking light location. I would cut the wire and splice it into One wire into a butt connector and two wires coming out the other end On the whichever side of the car you are starting on. Run one wire to lamp and other across to the next running light. Where you can do the same thing ending the wire at your last parking light.

[H2Ogbodies]

No, it isn't too much of load. I build full OEM style harnesses with all the correct breakouts, looming, rosebud clip locations, etc. You should run your single "parking light" lead (I assume it brown 14ga?) to your further routed location a presumably the RH side marker. Now, you will have to run a parking lamp lead from the RH turn signal to that wire as well as the LH turn signal and LH side marker lead to it as well. I build factory fit harnesses so I make my splices by scoring the jacketing about 2" long where it will not be noticed, then take the closest lead to the fuseblock first (in your case it'll be the LH side marker) and strip 2" off the end of the wire. Now I keep 12" strands of 10ga wire on hand to barrel roll the two leads together, then I solder the splice-next I slide a 3" section of dual wall polyolephin shrink tubing over the solder splice to seal it. Then move to the next splice down the line and so on.
On shorter splice runs, there's nothing wrong with running 3 or 4 wires to one common solder joint-it just depends how large the gauge size is and how big if a solder joint it will end up being because remember-all your wiring gets wrapped in heat resistant loom afterwards. It takes time to assemble and route a nice harness if you are doing it "on the car" and arent using a premade harness.

The attachment shown is a front lighting harness I made for an of a local customers 1968 C10 truck-he wanted a relay upgrade as well as a headlight reminder buzzer circuit (in Canada they require daytime lights so he always has his lights on but sometimes forgets they're on when gets out of the truck) so this was a stock fit harness with a relay mount near his voltage regulator and the buzzer circuit ties in like factory with his stock headlight switch using a Packard pigtail for a simple upgrade.
I'd suggest taking the time to follow GM's lead with how they assembled their OEM harnesses and then upgrade from there. Do you have your old harness to work from? I assume AAAw included all the correct looming, rosebud clips, breakouts, grounding rings, act. for a factory install, correct? I guess I'm wondering why you can't build the front harness section first and then route it...?

[jlwdvm]

The 69 firebird is a one-year-only model, so they don't make a specific harness for it yet. I had to take the wires they give me with the Power Plus 20 kit and adapt them to the 69 firebird configuration. I had to reuse the stock rosebuds, but all else is new with factory-style Type f connectors. I ended up taking the parking lamp lead from the fuse box and branched off at the drivers front corner with a short lead going to the side marker, one to the parking lamp, and then a run to the other corner where I branche doff to the parking lamp and side marker. I soldered all joints and covered with shrink wrap. I did twist and solder splices...probably not as good looking as yours, but hopefully effective.