drum brake question

[epeterson]

Hi guys, my brake booster had a bad leak a few weeks back (the pedal would go to the floor and could hear vacuum leak) well I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster with brand new parts from summit and drove it three times. The fourth time I've driven it since then the brake petal started getting very firm so I pulled over and saw that all four drum brakes are overheated and smoking out of the wheel wells. What could my problem be? Firm petal and brakes overheating after regular driving (no excessive stopping) this is a 1966 Cutlass with four wheel drum

[NOT A TA]

Sounds like you got a Right Stuff booster with an adjustable clevis and didn't lock the clevis nut so while driving the rod is loosening, which makes it longer, which keeps the brakes engaged because the piston in the master doesn't fully retract even when no pressure is applied to the pedal.

[epeterson]

How would I go about locking the Clevis? Sorry this is new to me

[NOT A TA]

If I remember correctly on those, there's a rod with a nut on it that sticks through the firewall to the brake pedal that is threaded and attaches to the clevis. You'll have to get up under the dash and adjust the rod so it's not applying pressure to the booster when the pedal isn't being pressed then tighten the lock nut against the clevis.