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kamaroman68
10-15-2005, 09:03 AM
Hey everyone. I don't know if I'm having a brain fart or what but maybe someone can give me a hand. I ordered a max g frame from art morrison. What I'm looking to do is channel the body over the frame but in a bolt on fashion. The frame rails are 2 x 4 .120 wall steel. I would like to put the channel over the frame rail and bolt it down. I would like to use 1/2 inch bolts. The problem is obviously I cant just tap the hole in the frame. I tried nut serts but they spin at 4o ft lbs of torque. I tried another product called weld nuts with bases but the threads ripped out of that product at 50 ft lbs. Plus I would like it to be repeatable in that if I take the body off I know the threads will be reusable. The last option I am about to try is welding some 1/2 - 13 grade 8 nuts on to a grade 8 washer. It would then pass through the frame rail until it hits the washer. I would then weld the washer to the frame. Will the temperature from welding affect the strength of the nut, washer and bolt assembly? Any other ideas on how to do this ? I realize it probably does not need to be as strong as I want it but I tend to overbuild so I know I will not have a problem later. Thanks Chris

Matt@RFR
10-17-2005, 08:00 AM
The first thing that pops into my head is using 7/8 x .250 DOM, drill and tap 1/2-13 for the last half of the tube, and weld the tube into the framerail.

The one thing I would highly recommend is to weld doubler plates onto the 14ga where the bolts pass through. Otherwise you could tear the 14ga and possibly end up with a loose body.

kamaroman68
10-17-2005, 08:23 AM
Matt I guess I don't understand completely.... sorry! Are you talking 7/8 in diameter drawn over mandrel x quarter inch length and weld into the frame? The actual channel I refer to would most likely be 1/8 inch with a washer so I shouldn't have a problem tearing up the channel piece. Thanks again. Chris

Matt@RFR
10-17-2005, 08:27 AM
No, 7/8 diameter by .250 wall tubing by (framerail width). Drill framerails to 7/8", insert threaded tubing, weld in.

If there's room, I'd be tempted to make it a bolt/nut application just simply so you can have some slop in non-threaded tubes to make installing the body easier.

Make sense?

kamaroman68
10-17-2005, 08:31 AM
Matt,I must be a retard. The frame is 4" in height. You want me to drill a 7/8" hole through the frame and insert a 7/8 tube with 1/4" wall thickness. But there would be no threads for the bolt to thread into right? Thanks Chris

Matt@RFR
10-17-2005, 08:55 AM
You'd have to tap it yourself if you wanted threads. That tube would have an I.D. of 3/8, so you'd have to drill it to 27/64 and tap it to 1/2-13, however deep you want. You could tap the entire tube, or you could just tap it 1".

In the pictures...blue is your body channel, purple is the bolt tube, and grey is the frame rail.

kamaroman68
10-17-2005, 09:09 AM
Matt, You kick ass man. Even a drawing to boot. I like it alot. The only change I would make and I would definately like your opinion is instead of mounting the tube horizontally the 2" way I would like to mount it vertically the 4" way. Are you still in business? If you are and I were to give you exact measurements would you build them for me??? Definately like your attention to detail. Thanks Chris

kamaroman68
10-17-2005, 09:10 AM
Is the tubing a Mc Master Carr type item???? Thanks again Chris

Matt@RFR
10-17-2005, 09:42 AM
Thanks Chris, but I'm unavailable for doing any work. McMaster doesn't have the tube, but www.onlinemetals.com does. Here's (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7769&step=4&showunits=inches) a direct link to 3/4 x .188 wall DOM. You can use the smaller 3/4" tube with it oriented vertically since there's no chance of the tube taking any weight of the body. I see no problem whatsoever doing it that way.

McMaster will have the tap if you need one. Drill bits too.

toxicz28
10-17-2005, 04:40 PM
Thanks Chris, but I'm unavailable for doing any work. McMaster doesn't have the tube, but www.onlinemetals.com (http://www.onlinemetals.com/) does. Here's (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7769&step=4&showunits=inches) a direct link to 3/4 x .188 wall DOM. You can use the smaller 3/4" tube with it oriented vertically since there's no chance of the tube taking any weight of the body. I see no problem whatsoever doing it that way.

McMaster will have the tap if you need one. Drill bits too.
Matt, all I have to say to you, is
:hail:

Chris,
Just a question, Why do you want to channel a first gen camaro? You could use half height bushings. Or, is the MaxG a full frame that you want to put under a unibody? I never did any research into this, so I don't know.

kamaroman68
10-18-2005, 09:13 AM
Max G is a full frame toxicz and to Matt I purchased the 1" dom with a 1/2" hole that I will drill and tap for 9/16-18. Do you think cutting a 1"hole in a 2" width by 4" high frame rail will weaken the frame rail too much? Thanks Matt Chris

parsonsj
10-18-2005, 11:29 AM
Alternative suggestion:

Use nut inserts, and put a tack (or two) weld on the edge to prevent spinning. I did that with my threaded inserts for my exhaust hangers. 40 to 50 lb ft of torque is no problem.

jp