Paint Job Costs

[ProTouringCuda]

So a buddy of mine is to the point where the "rough" body work is complete on his 65 Mustang Fastback. He doesn't want to paint it himself, so he went to a local shop to get a quote on a finish body work (blocking) and a base/clear coat.

The guy came back with $20,000. I told my friend I THOUGHT THAT WAS OUTRAGEOUS!!

I mean, after all is said and done, if the car is worth $40,000 when complete - the paint job would be half the value of the car. I just don't see it.

I can't imagine paying that kind of money for a paint job. Am I wrong for thinking this?

[dhutton]

It can be done for less. It all depends on how the car looks now and what sort of quality he is looking for. Of course high price doesn't guarantee high quality. How rough is the rough bodywork? The use of that term worries me...

Don

[gotyorgoat]

I shopped about 15 places when I had my car painted. Prices ranged from 4,000 to 10,000 and my car was pretty rough. I went with a 4k body shop with 500 in changes for some extra repairs and it turned out great. I also went to 2 different Maaacos to establish a baseline and they were both 4k.

[srh3trinity]

I have seen 4k-30k. Most shops want to know what they are spraying over so they usually want to do the bodywork. There could be 3k or more wrapped up in supplies. Paint itself isn't cheap these days.

[jasonsnova]

As a body shop owner I can tell you you get what you pay for.....but with out looking at it I would never quote a price. Now that being said 20k seems high on a car that all they have to do is "final block and paint" .
On the flip side your friend may or may not have done stuff correctly and they may be factoring in redoing alot of stuff....

[snappytravis]

I worked at a dealership bodyshop for years, and have been beating on stuff since I was a kid, The first thing when someone says "It just needs blocked" that could be a minimum of 30 to 40 hours or more,, Then reprime, Then you have all the door jambs, bottom of trunk and hood and inside fenders, are they planning on removing all the glass? It seems a little on the pricey side but a good shop may charge more hourly. You have to realize that shops that have a steady workload are not going to give there time away for something they don't want to do. So they just give a outrageous price to prevent you from bringing it to them instead of just saying we are to busy.

[71maroesteban]

You get what you pay for you want it to just look good from far away or amazing up close? The painting process isn't what cranks up the price it's the countless hours of sanding,blocking and jamming to get to fine and smooth for the paint

[ProTouringCuda]

Thanks guys.

He and another friend basically have the doors and fenders blocked (they're off the car) and they're both mechanics, one of whom has done his fair share of bodywork.

Anyway, everyone he talks to (whom isn't in the paint/body business) says that it seems REALLY high, and I guess that's somewhat confirmed here.

[camaro jeff]

That does sound very high . Bothcars I had done were under 7 k but we're mostly new panels that I already fitted and back on car, they then marked everything ,removed doors, trunk lid, hood and fenders and painted off car then reinstalled. Both came out very good. I did let them have car most of winter and they used it as fill in work which saved me $ because I wasn't in any hurry. You maybe could try that with a shop, use as fill in. I shopped probably 5 different shops some were as high as 15k or wanted to do t+ m which I think is crazy that gives them an open check book.
Jeff

[Wall]

A guy I work with paid $13k for bodywork and paint on his 1st gen Bronco. The Bronco had been sandblasted and had all the bad panels replaced prior to going to the body shop. Seemed high to me because he wasn't building it to be a show vehicle.

[sccacuda]

The one thing I found out years ago is what each individuals perception of "good" is. I've seen some hideous paint and body over the years that 95% of the people thing is great. It's always helpful to have an example of the quality the shop does and the quality you expect. To get to the level the other 5% think is great, 20K is not out of round. Then again if a 5-7k job meets your expectations, then spending more is pretty pointless.

[snappytravis]

then you have the guy that wants the 20k paintjob for 5k,, A good friend of mine owns a concrete business and a few weeks ago he told me that he had a 10k budget for his 57 chevy he wants painted. I told the wife and she laughed and said I should have told him we have a 10k budget for the concrete pad for the shop I want to build. It always seems the guy that wants the low budget paint job, turns it into a showcar when it's done.

[Jetfixr320]

All the products to do body work and paint start to finish adds up fast.
Fillers
sand paper
primers
Paint and Clear

It's very easy to have spent $2-3K or more for quality products and depends if your paying retail or get a discount. I think I spent close to $2K for primers and paint with a discount on my Falcon.

Then to cut and buff and that product and time.

[csouth]

One thing I would say is spending that kind of money on paint will definitely limit what he plans to do with the car IMO. That includes places he will park the car and how he drives. I want a streetable paint job when done only because I plan on tracking my car. I won't have an stroke once something bad happens because it will....

[minendrews68]

I'm hoping to have under $500 in my paint job. But then, I've already got my new rollers left over from a bedroom I did...................... ok just kidding.

[MonzaRacer]

Heck I have seen several paint roller paint jobs. After seeing some expensive paint jobs that DONT impress me and have painted in cool weather, outside and got near perfect results.
Paint is 95% prep and 5% technique.
Sanding,cleaning, masking, and all that.
I can lay pretty much any paint and make it look good.

[minendrews68]

I saw a guy paint a Suburban outside with 2 cases of aerosol paint 30 years ago. Man it was awful. Then there was the guy that painted his little foreign car that was white, with house enamel. Never taped off anything (and I do mean anything) and painted it blue. ugh... it was awful too. It was funny though. He had two of the same kind of cars and painted the first one and thought he did such a good job he decided to paint the second one. Didn't learn anything from one to the other.

[MuscleRodz]

The best quote I ever heard was Roger from Ironworks. He said paint job costs as much as a bag of groceries. It all depends on what you fill the bag with as to what the bag of groceries will cost. I have done paint jobs ranging from $3500 to $30k. With the cost of material these days $3500 barely covers the materials and pulling the car in the booth and shooting it. And don't expect any type of warranty either unless the bodyshop is starting from bare metal. He will only guarantee his paint sticks to the old stuff, too bad if anything below that fall off or it cracks.

[Auto Rod Technologies]

The best quote I ever heard was Roger from Ironworks. He said paint job costs as much as a bag of groceries. It all depends on what you fill the bag with as to what the bag of groceries will cost. I have done paint jobs ranging from $3500 to $30k. With the cost of material these days $3500 barely covers the materials and pulling the car in the booth and shooting it. And don't expect any type of warranty either unless the bodyshop is starting from bare metal. He will only guarantee his paint sticks to the old stuff, too bad if anything below that fall off or it cracks.

Well put!!!

[jerome]

Can anyone comment on whether this estimate from the paint shop seems reasonable? The project thread is here (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/37235-First-Gen-S10-Corner-Carver). This would involve media blasting the body, minimal metalwork (body is solid, no bondo, no prior resprays), block sanding, and basecoat/clearcoat. This was reduced from a higher estimate in response to my feedback that this would be a driver, not a show car.

My issue is that I don't quite care what the truck looks like. I'm happy enough with the 25 year old faded factory paint, I just need to have the truck disassembled to powdercoat the chassis and to paint over all the bare metal on the underside and firewall and make it all the same color. With a completely disassembled body though, it doesn't make sense not to spring for a paint job, but $15k on paint and body is at least $5k more than I'd like to spend. Does anyone have advice on how to cut down the cost and what I should expect in terms of imperfections if I choose to go that way? DIY isn't an option unfortunately.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/16392665663_9c44f0c73b_o-1.png

[vintageracer]

All those wonderful painting costs makes a "Vehicle Wrap" look pretty good!

[dhutton]

Can anyone comment on whether this estimate from the paint shop seems reasonable? The project thread is here (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/37235-First-Gen-S10-Corner-Carver). This would involve media blasting the body, minimal metalwork (body is solid, no bondo, no prior resprays), block sanding, and basecoat/clearcoat. This was reduced from a higher estimate in response to my feedback that this would be a driver, not a show car.

My issue is that I don't quite care what the truck looks like. I'm happy enough with the 25 year old faded factory paint, I just need to have the truck disassembled to powdercoat the chassis and to paint over all the bare metal on the underside and firewall and make it all the same color. With a completely disassembled body though, it doesn't make sense not to spring for a paint job, but $15k on paint and body is at least $5k more than I'd like to spend. Does anyone have advice on how to cut down the cost and what I should expect in terms of imperfections if I choose to go that way? DIY isn't an option unfortunately.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/16392665663_9c44f0c73b_o-1.png

I don't see anything out of line there. It looks like a lot more than a "paint job" to me. I am not sure I agree with all that acid etching, epoxy primer would be my preferred course.

Don

[Jetfixr320]

Can anyone comment on whether this estimate from the paint shop seems reasonable? The project thread is here (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/37235-First-Gen-S10-Corner-Carver). This would involve media blasting the body, minimal metalwork (body is solid, no bondo, no prior resprays), block sanding, and basecoat/clearcoat. This was reduced from a higher estimate in response to my feedback that this would be a driver, not a show car.

My issue is that I don't quite care what the truck looks like. I'm happy enough with the 25 year old faded factory paint, I just need to have the truck disassembled to powdercoat the chassis and to paint over all the bare metal on the underside and firewall and make it all the same color. With a completely disassembled body though, it doesn't make sense not to spring for a paint job, but $15k on paint and body is at least $5k more than I'd like to spend. Does anyone have advice on how to cut down the cost and what I should expect in terms of imperfections if I choose to go that way? DIY isn't an option unfortunately.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/16392665663_9c44f0c73b_o-1.png

If your happy with the panel gaps now, after all it's a driver not a show truck. Take that cost out.

I believe the media blasting will remove the seam sealer, Or you could do it before dropping the truck off. Take that $ off.

You could also disassemble the truck your self.

You could skip the wet sand and buff or do it yourself. There's $600.

There's about $2000 or more off of your bill.

I also would stick with Epoxy primer

[ford396]

Is it possible that they are soda blasting as opposed to other media? If so, they need to acid wash all panels. I do not believe that it will remove the seam sealer as sand or other course media would.

May be better to change media and skip some of these steps if this is the case. ??

[snappytravis]

Just took a glance at your truck, should be cool. The paint costs, That's a tough one. I priced a tri coat red yesterday with sealer, base, mid-coat, clear. $2100.00, does not include the epoxy or urethane primer that I have on it already. I could see if it is a top notch shop them quoting that price. It is a lot of work, I have done bodywork for a hobby and a living.. I think the guys that think the price is to high should start sanding, grinding, welding, spraying primer, block sanding and painting, Oh then start buffing for a few days.. 15g may not look to bad.

[eddiebarrett]

Our shop that I work at is time and materials . You do get what you pay for. An individual that searches for a shop based off of how much money he has is in for a rude awaking. Most quoted jobs are rushed or corners are cut . The materials alone for a reputable paint system will run over 2k. Also areal shop will make sure body work is perfect before paint . Most people who start body work however are unable to finish don't realize the are usually making more work for a shop as well as void any possible warranty . A high end paint job that is hard blocked and flow coated , edged and jammed correctly can easily run 60- 200 hours. Without body work . Our shop paintwork is hard to estimate as no car ever has come in ready for paint and doesn't leave without being show ready . Prob 16 to 20K if I had to guess . I am told we will have a information page explaining the difference on our website..http://www.eddiebarrett.com..within a few weeks.good luck and hope this helps

[keith4909]

That looks about the same as my Gto. I'm in Cali though. Little more pricey. Don't be surprised if they pad the labor a little. Pay step by step and make sure labor is accurate. Many times shops charge a flat rate even if the job finishes faster.

[TheJDMan]

Given the stupid high prices and long lead times for a typical paint job, I can see where the rat rod and patina car movements start to make a lot of sense.

[keith4909]

Everything is stupid expensive. I did a roller cam and needed to pay 120 for a distributor gear

[BB-63]

I wish "you get what you pay for" was really true. That's not to say a good paint job isn't expensive, it's just that there are plenty of shoddy, but expensive, paint jobs out there. Put another way, high cost does not necessarily guarantee high quality.

[snappytravis]

I just browsed over your build thread, I have been doing paint and bodywork for the greater part of my life, Here are my ideas, I would tear the truck down and paint chassis, firewall, inner fenders and interior. I would then reassemble truck and do spray in bedliner in the bed. Then line up all the body panels and take and have it wrapped. Tons of colors out there and you would have 2,000 to 3,000 invested. If a panel gets damaged its easily repairable. Do your firewall and inner fenders semi or flat black, then anything will match it.
The second option. Pull the box off and strip it yourself. Pull the doors and front fenders. Take the panels to the shop and have them done. Then reassemble. If you go with a solid color, you could use single stage paint. Think about this one, Red single stage paint will hold up aprox 6 to 8 years or more maintained horribly.. So realistically you should be able to use a single stage urethane paint and have a paint job that will last for years. Red, black, white,, ( white hides stuff great!). You still need to use a good epoxy on the bare metal panels. Then a good 2k urethane over that. As far as colorsanding and polishing goes. That isn't really necessary if you have a good painter. Unless your planning on show quality vehicle. If you haven't done any buffing, I wouldn't recommend it on a fresh paint job. You could screw stuff up really fast if your not careful. Good luck

[Rod]

why not paint it yourself?....look up some video basics, shoot some panels first like the trunk and hood, those are easy enough to paint in the garage and if you screw up just sand them down and do it again......order paint thru Summit or eastwood and give it a shot....I volunteered at a paint shop for 2 months to learn some basics, its a few hours a night after work but then I body worked and shot my own car, I did this because I autocross and track so having a 10,000 paint job made no sense, knowing that I will have to repaint it every 1 or 2 years from damage...it came out pretty good. the key to me was learning how to lay a decent clear and do a great cut and polish

heres my car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_1254_zpscyswmvoz-1.jpg

here is my car in Hot Rod Magazine for hottest paint trends! for 2015...not to bad right

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/unnameda_zps7x3zrlji-1.jpg

[snappytravis]

why not paint it yourself?....look up some video basics, shoot some panels first like the trunk and hood, those are easy enough to paint in the garage and if you screw up just sand them down and do it again......order paint thru Summit or eastwood and give it a shot....I volunteered at a paint shop for 2 months to learn some basics, its a few hours a night after work but then I body worked and shot my own car, I did this because I autocross and track so having a 10,000 paint job made no sense, knowing that I will have to repaint it every 1 or 2 years from damage...it came out pretty good. the key to me was learning how to lay a decent clear and do a great cut and polish

heres my car

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_1254_zpscyswmvoz-1.jpg

here is my car in Hot Rod Magazine for hottest paint trends! for 2015...not to bad right

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/unnameda_zps7x3zrlji-1.jpg

I saw this guy drive the hell out of this car,, vegas. When it's flying by you can't tell how the paint looks anyways,,,

[Cornbreadx]

All those wonderful painting costs makes a "Vehicle Wrap" look pretty good!

That's the route I am going with my 69. There are a few things to keep in mind though:

1) Vehicle wraps will not have the color depth of paint jobs if you go with gloss finish. It just isn't there and you can tell. Typically matte finishes are the way to go with wraps.

2) Accessory markings like stripes usually need to be color matched and so you will have to find a guy willing to go back to the vendor and request something.

3) The wrap width is usually 60", so unless you have stripes, you are going to see a fine line or two where the two pieces of wrap marry up. It's just the nature of the product.

4) Wraps don't cover door jams, door hinges, or other such crevice type places and so you will need to paint those regardless (at least to some degree).


Those are the major CONS.

The PROS?

1) wrap is usually waranteed for 5 years or more.

2) It can protect your paint underneath. If you don't have paint underneath, it doesn't matter how the car looks so long as it is 40grit sanded smooth (yes that's not very smooth) and no dips, you will see no blemishes with the wrap and it can go right over primer sealer. Bondo on your car? Also not a problem with a wrap.

3) If you get a blemish in the wrap, replacing it is far cheaper than getting the body section in question repainted. The vehicle does not have to be disassembled.

4) Graphics on your car are now an affordable option.

5) Cleaning a wrap requires zero polishing. It's just soap and water with microfibre cloth and you are done.

A typical wrap for a 69 camaro (as an example) with single color option will run you anywhere from 1500 to 3000 and take between 2 days to a week to apply. Adding graphics and design ups the price to between 2500 and 5000 and also increases the time to apply (usually a day) and the time to get it as it needs to be printed and such. Again, I would stress that if you do plan to go for a wrap, matte finishes are your best bet aesthetically. Because matte paint jobs lack color depth, the wrap will literally look no different than a matte paint job.

Here is an example of matte finish:

117523

I am going this route because of the 8k price I was quoted on paint (for literally 600-700 dollars in materials if that), 20k + the 8k to replace the entire underside of my car. Some body shops are just not getting that for 14k, I can have an entire unibody shipped from classic industries - why would I pay them 20k to replace the floor pans, rockers, and trunk pan?? *facepalm* I get it's work and labor and you are paying for quality assembly, but seriously... that's outrageous. Almost sad to see other people on this thread have experienced the same kind of thing. Anyways... Paint simply not worth it (to me) unless I plan to drive the vehicle as show only. For daily or weekly cruising, better bang for the buck in wraps and most people won't notice when you are driving by. Just my two cents on that.

[Cornbreadx]

I wish "you get what you pay for" was really true. That's not to say a good paint job isn't expensive, it's just that there are plenty of shoddy, but expensive, paint jobs out there. Put another way, high cost does not necessarily guarantee high quality.

So true!! They guy that quoted me 20k for the work on my car (without paint) actually came out to my garage to assess my camaro. After shooting me a round about 20k number, he then tells me that he can get it looking as good as his Chevy Step side he showed up in. So I walked over to take a closer look... talk about orange peel galore!! I literally turned to him and said "thanks for your time, but for less I can have a whole new unibody and I wouldn't really be interested in having my car look like your truck. Much appreciated of your time though." and walked off. The guy just kinda stood there not knowing what to say or do.