5 on 5 5/8 stud Wheel?

[scogin918]

Does any body have the ability to make an aluminum wheel that will accept a 5 on 5 bolt pattern with 5/8" studs? The 5/8" studs will require a 1" open lugnut. Fikse can not make this wheel. They said their center section does not have enough material to support this bolt pattern. I need some help.

[TLWiltman]

I've been on the same search...

www.circleracing.com (http://www.circleracing.com) has aluminum wheels up to 18x12 or so 5x5's are definitely available.

I would imagine that BBS can do it. IIRC Big Red is sporting those.

For the record, I also think that any company that could make 17 & 18" NASCAR type steelies would pick up a lot of business, too (just in case any are watching:naughty: )

[scogin918]

Those look real close to the Mach V's that Fikse is trying to make. I called and talked to Peggy. She was real helpful and told me her wheels would probably work. For Fikse, it's not the 5 on 5 that's the problem, it's the 5/8" stud which requires the 1" lugnut. That's too much material for them to remove from the center section.
I've got one option left and that's to take out the 5/8" stud and use ARP Chrysler Studs. They are the same size at the knurl(maybe 2/100ths bigger) but they step down to 1/2". Fikse says that that should work just fine.
If this doesn't work, then Peggy will be getting a phone call from me.

[TLWiltman]

Hmmm...:idea:

the only trouble I see with swapping out the studs is that, at least on an SCP SS hub, is that the brake rotors are "located" by the wheel studs in shear (from a rotational standpoint). If the studs are swapped out, all of the braking forces would be left to the rotor/hub bolts (1/4-28 times 5 bolts). I could very well be wrong in your case (your components may not be the same, yada, yada,yada), but in my case... the 5/8" studs gotta stay.
Another thing I came across. Generally speaking, wheels for the floater style hubs are considered lug-centric (the wheel is centered and located by the stud/nut assy.) as opposed to hub-centric (centered and located by the hub, the studs/nuts are merely a clamping device). In the worst case, the hub hole is not a precisely machined hole or precisely centered (circle racing will probably tell you not to use the hub hole for balancing, as I believe it says in their website. Rather, use an adapter for the stud holes, as they are precisely machined/located.). The big deal in this for guys like you and me (weird folk using weird components) is that all of the weight, and all of the forces are carried by those studs (most of it anyways). The solution you propose may work for you, but I figured I'd bring this up as a strength/durability consideration now, as opposed to later. It just seems to me that a 1/2" stud may be marginal, especially with the fitups, or lack thereof, when adapted to the hub (designed for a bigger stud).

With that said... I like the sounds of your project:drool:

[scogin918]

The new studs will be here on Tuesday and Fikse is going to ship me back the wheels they had made the 1st time. It had a 5 on 5 but for the slightly smaller stud. If the rotor doesn't work out, then the wheels will have to back to Fikse and I'll have to go to plan B.

I just talked to Wes at www.BSRproducts.com and in regards to the rotor, what was important was having the 5 flat socket cap screws that locate it on the drive plate and the hub. So, hopefully this might work out for me.

Have you checked the camber on your rear end? When I bought mine they said ithe ends straight up with no camber. I do know that some housings do have camber built into the ends depending on what track they are at.

[TLWiltman]

I ended up ordering a housing with -.5* camber @0 pinion angle, 58" track (I specified drive plate to drive plate, that's what I got. It comes out to 58.5" with the brakes on). It checked out as ordered, but the brake brackets and TA pads still need to be welded on. Therefore, it'll need to be checked again later and probably straightened.

You are right about the 5 socket-head capscrew locating bolts. I just got those a couple days ago from Summit (needed a brake hat, those locating bolts, and ARP brake hat bolts... Summit was the only place where I could order all from the same place).
1- They really don't thread in very far (about 2 threads)
2-They're only 1/4-28...not real stout. It seems they're just designed to hold the rotor square on the hub when a tire/wheel isn't present.
But I gotta ask... isn't this the most frustrating/secondmost fun part of the project:hammer: :Alchy: :banghead:

[scogin918]

I'll agree with the most frustrating part. Those 5 bolts were originally intended to keep the rotor from turning at an angle inside the caliper during pit stops while the wheel is off. I'll be sooo glad when this is behind me.

[scogin918]

I've done some more research on the subject and talked to a couple of different people. The 1st being the people at Speewday Engineering (www.1speedway.com). They said the drive plate won't have an issue with the smaller studs. Once the lug nuts are on, it won't even be a problem. They also had a good idea if it continued to be a concern. They said to use cut pieces of metal tubing as sort of an insert to take some of the load surrounding the lugnuts. They could be cut long enough to match the thickness of the brake hat and the drive plate together and kill two birds with one stone.
I also called Brembo USA and they gave me the phone # of their North Carolina office which handles the NASCAR rotors and they turned me on to a guy who machines brake hats for whatever bolt pattern you may need. There is more cost involved this way so I'm going to try the insert route 1st.
I've received the "Chrysler" studs from ARP. The knurl is a 1/100th bigger than the hole and then it reduces down to 1/2" stud. That will allow the Fikse wheels to work. I'm just relieved that I'm starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel.

Update: I found the company that makes the hats for Brembo and they said they would have no problem making the hat with 1/2" holes vs the 5/8". No creative engineering required.

[TLWiltman]

excellent!!!

I'm very glad to see that you have solutions. They all make perfect sense to me. I like the "no creative engineering required" part

[79T/Aman]

why can't you use a rotor hat for 1/2 studs that's what I have and they have a multi patern on them 4.5", 4.75", and 5"

[gchandler]

I am also running a 5x5 pattern with 5/8 studs. My hubs are also the SCP style and require the 3.190" center bore in the wheel. It has been one real adventure finding wheels. Circle racing make their sexy aluminum rims that will work and wheel vintiques billet ralleys come with the correct bolt circle and center bore. I was unable to get an answer at to if they could make 5/8 holes for my studes, but there are other places that could handle that after the fact.

I also found lug nuts that have a smaller outside diameter, but work for the 5/8 studs. I however ordered them over a month ago and have yet to recieve them in the mail. I will be calling up the company on monday and see what the hold up is. When I ordered they told me it would take 2-3 weeks, but that time has come and gone.

[gchandler]

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