A-body suspension suggestings

[steveracer33]

I am looking for suggestions concerning my car set up... Car is a 1969 Chevelle SS with a BB/auto pushing around 650 HP, for the last 10 yrs its been set up for the sat nite cruise and street strip outings... while this is fun it does not get driven much... so i would like to make my car a driver that handles and has a low stance at the same time if possible for highway driving.
Currently i have the following: Front QA-1 single adjust coil over shocks with Global west upper and lower control arms that take coil over shocks only with 2 in lower spindles . the cross member sits about 3.5 inchs from the ground.... great look on the car and i like that its low... but its a very harsh stiff ride that i believe the shocks are bottoming out .. I just watched a video from global west about there new lower arms that have extensions on bottom for better travel... which pretty much explains my problem with my current set up... that option was not around when i bought mine.. I also have a Spoon sway bar

Rear: QA-1 single adjust shocks, UMI adjustable uppers, currie alum lowers, with UMI 2 in drop springs, BMR anti roll bar ( again the stance is about perfect) i have 18 rims on the back with 17's on the front also


I have contemplating going to all four corners with double adjustable shocks either coil/shock combo or a mix of coil over front and leave the rear springs as is with new shocks added and buy new front lower arms..
but i worry about loosing the low stance... or go to a full air ride set up where i can have a nice ride but parked on the ground when not in use.. i have never driven an air ride car so i don't know the feel..

so i am looking for input from the people that have suggestions as i don't want to keep spending money 2-3 times in order to accommodate my ride... tried to add pictures but its not working

Thanks for your inputs
Steve

[andrewb70]

Steve,

Welcome to the site. You have many options to choose from. We have excellent companies that sponsor the forum and all of them make very good products. We certainly live in the Golden Age of pro-touring performance options.

I have older Global West parts on my car as well, in fact, almost identical to yours. I keep my ride height higher than yours to avoid bottoming out my shocks. I also run the SpeedTech AFX spindles and Corvette brakes in the front.

I guess you sort of have to decide what spindle you want to run, because that will largely determine what companies product you will use. I was just watched the latest episode of Hot Rod garage, and you might find it helpful.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThwBXOeUYoM

I am sure you will also get many other suggestions.

Andrew

[WallaceMFG]

I've got Ridetech stuff on my car. It's not driving yet, but I can verify the car will be low. As it sits right now it's probably too low, I'll have to adjust the ride height higher.

[steveracer33]

Ty Andrew, as far as my spindles i bought them from chassisworks , TY for the video as i like to learn from them.. i am also running Wilwood brakes front and back which have been great for as long as i have had them..

[steveracer33]

I've got Ridetech stuff on my car. It's not driving yet, but I can verify the car will be low. As it sits right now it's probably too low, I'll have to adjust the ride height higher.

air or coil?

[Josh@Ridetech]

I've got Ridetech stuff on my car. It's not driving yet, but I can verify the car will be low. As it sits right now it's probably too low, I'll have to adjust the ride height higher.

Your car should sit 2" lower than factory height (with the air or coilover kit on it), at driving height. If it's too low right now, make sure that your shocks are right at mid-stroke, with the car on the ground. You may just not have enough preload in the springs yet.

[BMR Sales]

Steve, What about your current set-up don't you like or don't think will work. You already have Single Adjustables, did you find yourself making a lot of adjustments? Enough to want to do the same with a Double Adj?

[steveracer33]

Steve, What about your current set-up don't you like or don't think will work. You already have Single Adjustables, did you find yourself making a lot of adjustments? Enough to want to do the same with a Double Adj?

for the most part the aft shocks suffice but i am sure the double adj would be better for when i want to do long drives verses just doing burn outs , the front with the current set up i dont think really gets a fair assessment from me at this point since i believe the travel range of the shock is cut short.. from watching the global west video.. i dont have a bump stop on the frame for the lower arm to hit if needed ( which i never knew was supposed to have one) to hit before the shock bottoms out.. plus the lower arm was not designed to work with a 2 in drop spindle .. if i can fig how to add pictures i will.. the video of the el camino shows the front fender above the rim , my fender lip sits about at the rim and the cross member at about 3.0 - 3.5 from the ground .. so far i have never hit the cross member driving.. but fear i will if i dont get the proper suspension travel set up.. thats why i am not sure if an air ride system or a coil over system would serve me best in order to get the stance plus proper travel requirements ... if that all makes sense..

[WallaceMFG]

air or coil?

I have single adjustable coilovers.



Your car should sit 2" lower than factory height (with the air or coilover kit on it), at driving height. If it's too low right now, make sure that your shocks are right at mid-stroke, with the car on the ground. You may just not have enough preload in the springs yet.


I'm sure I'll be able to raise the ride height, I haven't touched the shocks since I assembled them, so they have very little preload on them now. I'm getting closer to being able to set the ride height though!

[therobski]

On my 64 F-85 build I went with all Hotchkis-including B-spindle front control arms, QA1's in the rear with a Moser 9inch, Tuned Bilstein shocks in the front, Lee Steering box,

[Ben@SpeedTech]

There are lots of ways to skin a cat, depending on the end result you want. If you plan to just cruise the air bags may be the way to go. I don't personally have experience with them but have heard a few folks say the ride is harsh when you raise the car up. That may be in the eye of the beholder tho'. By far, when you're parked there isn't much better way to have the lowest stance possible. Driving the car super low is of course another story. In the handling world such as autocross or road course you can make a car too low so that it negatively affects handling if not done correctly.

If you're planning on having a decent G machine your current set up may not be the best. Typically drop spindles don't do anything for correcting geometry and may possibly make it worse. You may want to look at ATS tall spindles in that case, they offer a 1" drop and do a great deal to correct the front suspension geometry and in and of themselves make the car handle better. Click here for details. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=136/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd136.htm) Using a dropped lower control arm may create some ground clearance issues and in my opinion looks goofy when you see that pocket hanging down so far. It's not difficult at all to get a nice ride height with a decent normal height pocket control arm.

With any decent coilover you should be able to get about a 2" drop with stock spindles. I'm guessing you have the hybrid coilover which has the top of the spring seat in the factory spring pocket. With a true coilover conversion, you have some more flexibility in available spring heights and can use that to your ride height advantage. Converting is as simple as removing the factory shock mounts and replacing them with these- Click here for Chicane shock brackets. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=272/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd272.htm)

On the rear a simple bolt-in coilover shock conversion will kill two birds with one stone. 1.) You get a decent shock that you can adjust for the Caddy like cruise, and in a matter of seconds you can adjust the shocks for handling through the cones OR transferring the weight to hook harder at the dragstrip. 2.) You also get a lot of flexibility in ride height. Trust me adjusting a coilover is a lot more user friendly than buying and replacing springs several times until you get the spring rate and ride height you're after. I've been there and done that, and kick myself for not switching to coilovers a long time ago. Click here to see more. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=202/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd202.htm)

If you want to go with a complete transformation we are currently ramping up production of complete chassis systems for Chevelles. Not only are they killer frames, they will have the lowest static ride height of any aftermarket frame out there and they will have the most advanced design in front suspension that we are comfortable saying will also be the best handling aftermarket chassis system out there. These frames should be available for purchase around March 2015.

In comparison, my car is a newer 79 G body but has a similar suspension to an A body. Up front I use the Chicane coilover conversion with double adjustable Viking coilovers, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, stock spindles, and a 1/2" tall lower ball joints. Out back I use Speedtech's bolt-in coilover conversion and trailing arms. With this set up I have a 3" suspension drop with plenty of shock travel with no bottoming out issues, the car rides great as a daily driver and does well on the autocross. If I go any lower than 3" I'm going to have some bumpsteer issues and camber settings/ adjustability may get a little crazy.

Hope this gives you some insight and options to consider.

[steveracer33]

There are lots of ways to skin a cat, depending on the end result you want. If you plan to just cruise the air bags may be the way to go. I don't personally have experience with them but have heard a few folks say the ride is harsh when you raise the car up. That may be in the eye of the beholder tho'. By far, when you're parked there isn't much better way to have the lowest stance possible. Driving the car super low is of course another story. In the handling world such as autocross or road course you can make a car too low so that it negatively affects handling if not done correctly.

If you're planning on having a decent G machine your current set up may not be the best. Typically drop spindles don't do anything for correcting geometry and may possibly make it worse. You may want to look at ATS tall spindles in that case, they offer a 1" drop and do a great deal to correct the front suspension geometry and in and of themselves make the car handle better. Click here for details. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=136/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd136.htm) Using a dropped lower control arm may create some ground clearance issues and in my opinion looks goofy when you see that pocket hanging down so far. It's not difficult at all to get a nice ride height with a decent normal height pocket control arm.

With any decent coilover you should be able to get about a 2" drop with stock spindles. I'm guessing you have the hybrid coilover which has the top of the spring seat in the factory spring pocket. With a true coilover conversion, you have some more flexibility in available spring heights and can use that to your ride height advantage. Converting is as simple as removing the factory shock mounts and replacing them with these- Click here for Chicane shock brackets. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=272/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd272.htm)

On the rear a simple bolt-in coilover shock conversion will kill two birds with one stone. 1.) You get a decent shock that you can adjust for the Caddy like cruise, and in a matter of seconds you can adjust the shocks for handling through the cones OR transferring the weight to hook harder at the dragstrip. 2.) You also get a lot of flexibility in ride height. Trust me adjusting a coilover is a lot more user friendly than buying and replacing springs several times until you get the spring rate and ride height you're after. I've been there and done that, and kick myself for not switching to coilovers a long time ago. Click here to see more. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=202/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd202.htm)

If you want to go with a complete transformation we are currently ramping up production of complete chassis systems for Chevelles. Not only are they killer frames, they will have the lowest static ride height of any aftermarket frame out there and they will have the most advanced design in front suspension that we are comfortable saying will also be the best handling aftermarket chassis system out there. These frames should be available for purchase around March 2015.

In comparison, my car is a newer 79 G body but has a similar suspension to an A body. Up front I use the Chicane coilover conversion with double adjustable Viking coilovers, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, stock spindles, and a 1/2" tall lower ball joints. Out back I use Speedtech's bolt-in coilover conversion and trailing arms. With this set up I have a 3" suspension drop with plenty of shock travel with no bottoming out issues, the car rides great as a daily driver and does well on the autocross. If I go any lower than 3" I'm going to have some bumpsteer issues and camber settings/ adjustability may get a little crazy.

Hope this gives you some insight and options to consider.

Ben thanks for all the input,
as a added bonus i now know there is a company in Utah that provides performance beyond autozone in this state.. I am sure you know what i mean.. looks like i have more homework and reasearch to do before the dollars are spent as thats what most of it comes down too... what can a person afford.. ill be following your site for updates on the frame also as that may be an option also.
Thanks Steve

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Sounds good. I am currently working on adding info about the frame to the site so maybe check back tomorrow. I didn't realize that you're in Utah, what part?

[steveracer33]

Ben i live in Roy about 30 north of Salt lake, ill be following your site also..

Again thanks for your input

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Sounds good Steve. If you ever pass through St. George stop in and see us, we're happy to show folks around the shop and warehouse.

[Thenovaguy]

Hey Ben,

Im interested in more info about this complete A body kit to be released! I'm currently doing my homework and weighing my options. Any chance we can get a sneak peak?

Thanks
T.J.






There are lots of ways to skin a cat, depending on the end result you want. If you plan to just cruise the air bags may be the way to go. I don't personally have experience with them but have heard a few folks say the ride is harsh when you raise the car up. That may be in the eye of the beholder tho'. By far, when you're parked there isn't much better way to have the lowest stance possible. Driving the car super low is of course another story. In the handling world such as autocross or road course you can make a car too low so that it negatively affects handling if not done correctly.

If you're planning on having a decent G machine your current set up may not be the best. Typically drop spindles don't do anything for correcting geometry and may possibly make it worse. You may want to look at ATS tall spindles in that case, they offer a 1" drop and do a great deal to correct the front suspension geometry and in and of themselves make the car handle better. Click here for details. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=136/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd136.htm) Using a dropped lower control arm may create some ground clearance issues and in my opinion looks goofy when you see that pocket hanging down so far. It's not difficult at all to get a nice ride height with a decent normal height pocket control arm.

With any decent coilover you should be able to get about a 2" drop with stock spindles. I'm guessing you have the hybrid coilover which has the top of the spring seat in the factory spring pocket. With a true coilover conversion, you have some more flexibility in available spring heights and can use that to your ride height advantage. Converting is as simple as removing the factory shock mounts and replacing them with these- Click here for Chicane shock brackets. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=272/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd272.htm)

On the rear a simple bolt-in coilover shock conversion will kill two birds with one stone. 1.) You get a decent shock that you can adjust for the Caddy like cruise, and in a matter of seconds you can adjust the shocks for handling through the cones OR transferring the weight to hook harder at the dragstrip. 2.) You also get a lot of flexibility in ride height. Trust me adjusting a coilover is a lot more user friendly than buying and replacing springs several times until you get the spring rate and ride height you're after. I've been there and done that, and kick myself for not switching to coilovers a long time ago. Click here to see more. (http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=202/category_id=76/mode=prod/prd202.htm)

If you want to go with a complete transformation we are currently ramping up production of complete chassis systems for Chevelles. Not only are they killer frames, they will have the lowest static ride height of any aftermarket frame out there and they will have the most advanced design in front suspension that we are comfortable saying will also be the best handling aftermarket chassis system out there. These frames should be available for purchase around March 2015.

In comparison, my car is a newer 79 G body but has a similar suspension to an A body. Up front I use the Chicane coilover conversion with double adjustable Viking coilovers, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, stock spindles, and a 1/2" tall lower ball joints. Out back I use Speedtech's bolt-in coilover conversion and trailing arms. With this set up I have a 3" suspension drop with plenty of shock travel with no bottoming out issues, the car rides great as a daily driver and does well on the autocross. If I go any lower than 3" I'm going to have some bumpsteer issues and camber settings/ adjustability may get a little crazy.

Hope this gives you some insight and options to consider.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Hey TJ check out this link- http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=149/mode=cat/cat149.htm

The photos show the preliminary suspension design which has all been changed. We'll have more updated pics soon. In the mean time the write up gives you a pretty good idea where we're headed with it. We're using our 67 C10 build as a test bed for the new suspension. We're anticipating the frames should be available for purchase sometime around mid March.