high powered PT cars and traction on the street

[Johnny Blaze]

I'm curious how pro touring type cars with big hp can hook on the street. Too me it seems the combo of stiff suspension, short sidewalls, and big hp would just lead to a car that does nothing but break loose anytime you stab the throttle. Going to a drag radial seems like a reasonable choice, but then handling will suffer right?

So, how do you guys cope with it? PT cars are built to drive and be pushed, but how can you do this if it doesn't hook.

[David Pozzi]

How much power?
Are you talking 200 tread wear or 100?

[Johnny Blaze]

Let's say 600 plus hp. You tell me on tires.

[PhillipM]

If you get the rear suspension set up right it shouldn't be too bad. But yes, everything is a compromise... always.

[scott_fx]

I'm curious how pro touring type cars with big hp can hook on the street. Too me it seems the combo of stiff suspension, short sidewalls, and big hp would just lead to a car that does nothing but break loose anytime you stab the throttle. Going to a drag radial seems like a reasonable choice, but then handling will suffer right?

So, how do you guys cope with it? PT cars are built to drive and be pushed, but how can you do this if it doesn't hook.

interested about this as well. someone on the FB chevelle's owners group was saying that a 16" wheel/tire combo is far superior to an 18". I always read that a shorter sidewall was better for cornering.

[Johnny Blaze]

Sport Compact Performance did a shoot out years ago, between 15, 16, 17,19" wheels. The 17 performed the best. After that wheels got too heavy, and there needs to be some sidewall. Look at road race cars, they have some sidewall.

Today, everybody goes 18" or bigger because they want to be bigger and cooler. Some guys have to go that big to fit their brakes, but again, like everything else, some guys just go bigger to be bigger.


I'm curious to hear from others. My 427would light up 31x14 slicks on the street with a stab of the throttle. I don't see how I can drive this engine on the street with a 275/40/17.

[Johnny Blaze]

I see so many guys here and other places building 1000hp street cars, and would like to know how they plan to deal with it. The last thing i want is a PT car that I can't drive hard because it just spins.

[scott_fx]

Sport Compact Performance did a shoot out years ago, between 15, 16, 17,19" wheels. The 17 performed the best. After that wheels got too heavy, and there needs to be some sidewall. Look at road race cars, they have some sidewall.

Today, everybody goes 18" or bigger because they want to be bigger and cooler. Some guys have to go that big to fit their brakes, but again, like everything else, some guys just go bigger to be bigger.


I'm curious to hear from others. My 427would light up 31x14 slicks on the street with a stab of the throttle. I don't see how I can drive this engine on the street with a 275/40/17.

i read that article too. ha. i wasn't sure if it translated to older classic cars or just the super light imoprts. I went 18's because of the c6 brakes

[Nicks67GTO]

I just got my Nitto555 265/50/18's {28.4" tall} on the back of my GTO. SC&C Stage II chassis and Ridetech HQ shocks and while it cornered hard and felt great, I blew the tires off from a roll without issue, with a VERY mild Pontiac 455. I'm kind of wondering the same thing. It may have been the temp though. It was around 30*F out.

[Johnny Blaze]

^ I feel ya Nick. I'm trying to figure it out. No sense in putting 600hp under the hood if I can't use it.

I low powered car that hooks is better than a high powered one that doesn't imo.

[Johnny Blaze]

i read that article too. ha. i wasn't sure if it translated to older classic cars or just the super light imoprts. I went 18's because of the c6 brakes

Most of those imports aren't as light as you would think.

[scott_fx]

Most of those imports aren't as light as you would think.

i had an miata then an rx7 fd soon after that. so i always think of imports as being light. but back then most of the imports were pretty light (sans supra)... weren't they?

[Johnny Blaze]

i had an miata then an rx7 fd soon after that. so i always think of imports as being light. but back then most of the imports were pretty light (sans supra)... weren't they?

For example, Listed curb weight for a 1993 RX7 is 2900lbs First gen miatas are listed just over 2000lbs. Second gens are 2400lbs, third gens, 2600lbs

[scott_fx]

For example, Listed curb weight for a 1993 RX7 is 2900lbs First gen miatas are listed just over 2000lbs. Second gens are 2400lbs, third gens, 2600lbs
i had an r1 at 2789... you are right though. that car just felt so light and nimble. I haven't had a car that has matched it yet (power/performance). i think we're getting side tracked though.

[Johnny Blaze]

There are a lot of guys here with big power. I can't wait to hear from them.

[Johnny Blaze]

i realize that we are not here building drag cars, but the trend keeps moving towards bigger power. Look through the project section. There are many builds with 1000hp.

A pro touring car is supposed to drive and handle well.

IMO, a street car with a 1000hp and no ability to hook is a dangerous car. Most PT guys pride themselves on drivability and safety. I want to know how this is being accomplished.

I will admit, the best radial tires I have ran are BFG Comps. But I also run ET streets on some cars. Maybe the NT01 or BFG Rivals can hook a high hp car. I just gotta hear it from someone how does it.

And I am not expecting to be able to dead hook on the street with a wheels up 7000 rpm launch.

But I don't want a car the will get sideways at 50 mph just by nailing the gas.

[will69camaro]

My car isn't done yet, but I plan to take advantage of the Holley EFI integration with the Davis Box traction control. I plan to turn power down on the setup when I put road race/ autox tires on it.

For street duty, primarily the car will be on 345/35/18 MT DR's.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/DZf6Irh-1.jpg?1

[Chad-1stGen]

I don't street race so personally I haven't had a problem. I have a 600hp motor with 315/30/18 rear wheels. Of course it will just spin the tires if you mash the throttle from a stop or slow roll. Even if the car hooks nicely you quickly will exceed the speed limit in a straight line so again who cares. Sure the occasional freeway ramp or canyon run is a lot of fun but now you are cornering so its not an issue.

[Johnny Blaze]

Chad, I'm not talking about street racing. I'm talking about driving on the street.

Getting in the throttle on a corner with a high hp car, it will not brake loose?

So what your saying is that everyone with a high hp pt car just putts around on the street, and saves that 1000hp for corner carving on designated race tracks?

[will69camaro]

Agree to an extent. Depends on how heavy your foot is. I'm sure not many tires are going to give ultimate power on the street for a big power car. Needs prepped surface.

I dont expect these DR's to allow me to lay on it all over town. I just hope it'll help it hook around 60-70 on the street :)

[will69camaro]

Chad, I'm not talking about street racing. I'm talking about driving on the street.

Getting in the throttle on a corner with a high hp car, it will not brake loose?

So what your saying is that everyone with a high hp pt car just putts around on the street, and saves that 1000hp for corner carving on designated race tracks?

It's not just putting around. You can go as fast as the tires allow. Doesn't mean you have to drive Mrs Daisy around.

William

[Johnny Blaze]

I guess it makes me wonder, why guys are building such high hp pt cars. Seems that hp would be hard to control on a tight autocross course. History at the Good guys events have shown that low hp cars can perform right up there with high hp cars.

I thought maybe I'm missing something. Maybe these NT01's and BFG rivals can hook hard and are not just for handling.

I'm trying to avoid having a PT car ( which are supposed to be great drivers) that is useless or down right dangerous on the street due to an over abundance of HP.

[OG_Racing]

a ton of variables go into making a car hook. my little miata has 500hp and a 225/45r15 tire. hot day, i can mash the gas in first and it will shoot out into orbit. ive found that tire compound makes the biggest difference. if you have a 275 all season you can spin it off very easy, as a 275 bfg rival is going to hook. also think about how the power is being made. is it all motor, or a turbo. the way a turbo makes power is not beneficial to grip. it has a big upward swing and not an idea lineal power delivery. if we look at mike Dusold's twin turbo camaro. he was running in the top 5 shoot out with us last year @lsFest. he had to turn his boost down so he could try and keep traction. it's 100 times easier to keep traction with an all motor build vs turbos.

[will69camaro]

I guess it makes me wonder, why guys are building such high hp pt cars. Seems that hp would be hard to control on a tight autocross course.

Why build an old car at all if you can do the same for less money with a C6Z06/etc. Different strokes. I'm definitely not building mine for autox as I dont find it to be a lot of fun. Just my preference.

I agree fully on power delivery of NA being much easier to handle than TT setup.

I'm building my car for the OCCASIONAL road course visit, maybe some autox if there is a big event, but primarily to just enjoy to drive on the street. 1000+rwhp in Houston will get you invited to the big meets, not make you competitive :)

[Chad-1stGen]

Chad, I'm not talking about street racing. I'm talking about driving on the street.

Getting in the throttle on a corner with a high hp car, it will not brake loose?

So what your saying is that everyone with a high hp pt car just putts around on the street, and saves that 1000hp for corner carving on designated race tracks?

Certainly I don't drive my Camaro the same way I drive my wife's civic when driving on the streets.

However, the same principles that apply to the road course or autocross apply to driving on the street. Whether I'm driving on the street or driving on the track smooth movements and application of the gas pedal > than overly jerky or poor driving. If you apex a slow corner (turning right at a typical intersection) and mash full throttle then yes I can spin the car. However, canyon runs and whatnot 600hp with 200tw tires is not a problem.

I don't know anything about 1,000 hp on the street. The gas pedal is not an on/off switch and yes as the power levels rise then how you drive changes. Generally speaking that applies to the track and the street.

[Johnny Blaze]

I did not intend for this to be a build bashing thread.

So, again just looking to hear from guys driving high hp pt cars and their traction issues or expereinces with sticky non drag tires and their abilities and the street.

Thanks for everyones input so far!

[Johnny Blaze]

Certainly I don't drive my Camaro the same way I drive my wife's civic
However, canyon runs and whatnot 600hp with 200tw tires is not a problem.


That's exactly the type of feedback I am looking for. Thanks!

[will69camaro]

I did not intend for this to be a build bashing thread.

So, again just looking to hear from guys driving high hp pt cars and their traction issues or expereinces with sticky non drag tires and their abilities and the street.

Thanks for everyones input so far!

Sorry man not trying to bash anyones threads. Everyone is different. I dont have experience yet as i'm not driving mine. I'll settle the traction issues by tuning the boost level, sticky tire selection and traction control system.

William

[Johnny Blaze]

No worries! I was afraid my tone was coming across as bashing.

You're plan of drag radials is exactly what I was thinking for but having no experience with them Im afraid of loosing the drivability a pt car is made for. Of course they are stiff than et biasply so maybe I'm worrying for nothing. Which is why I started the thread, to see what others have done.

[Y-TRY]

My car was about 925 flywheel and I'm going for 1000 on the new set up. Sending the car into a rolling burnout at any speed was no problem if that's what I wanted to do. Trying to use all that power instantaneously would be impossible to control. The same could be said for anything over 400hp on street tires.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

I didn't have time to read the replies, but I used to drive my 11 sec street strip Nova daily on the street. With honest street tires traction was a joke. Punched from a stop and not using the brakes to start the wheels spinning, it would finally hook up in 3rd gear and moving along at about 65 mph. Even with 28" tall full drag slicks at 12 lbs psi, the car would spin all of 1st and 10-15 feet of second before hooking. On the drag strip it pulled the left front wheel 4" high off the line and ran 1.63 60' times. Only difference was surface. That car had about 550 hp at the flywheel, and ran 4.56 gears and a 4500 stall converter. Stiffer suspensions and low profile tires without flex in the sidewalls to spread out a contact patch compound the problem. That's just my experience.

[ccmc]

My stock 99 ls1 in a 1969 Camaro daily driver with 275-50-17 tires is plenty of horsepower for a daily driver. Sure, I'd like 400+ but there are times I hit a yellow light and hit the gas to get past the light. If I had 1000 hp it would get sideways fast with no traction control!

[Aficionado]

Kind of curious about this myself, since my build has 600+, and isn't drivable yet. I've spent a fair amount of time driving ~400 in all kinds of conditions without any issues, and have driven 550 hp with a five speed in traffic with no issues--didn't spin the tires (275x17) or stall it. Of course I was terrified....

Having traction control was important to me (I've got the FAST XFI ITC box) as well as having a chassis stiff enough to take the power without serious flex, and the widest tires I could reasonably fit.

As for actually being able to lay *all* that power down on the street...that's what tracks are for. Using a serious PT car to its potential on the road is probably going to mean jail, not to mention endangering others. Like you, I'm mostly concerned with the car still being semi-reasonable transportation.

[Poorhousenext]

Type of driving you plan to do most plays a part in tires. Rub (square patch), Scrub (rectangular patch)

Mostly straight line, Rub (taller sidewall for more flex and footprint for straight line traction.)

Canyon carving, Scrub (shorter sidewall for less flex and heat and rectangular footprint for better traction in turns.)

Horsepower. Why not base it on weight of car and how fast you want to go, Horsepower to Weight. Build light, less HP, Build heavy more HP. Same results.

Handling both straight line and corners like a PT car can be a compromise. You can bet the best PT cars driven in competition with big HP the owner/buider has spent a lot of time and money on car suspension to allow the car to use that HP.

There are a lot of builds that are called Pro Touring, that are not competition cars, maybe not even be PT cars. I call mine that as they meet the Pro Touring definition of what make a PT car. Are they really? If compeated, probably only a poor imitation even with someone who knows how to drive a competition car. They are automatics that can be manually shifted up or down through 6 gears quickly anyway.

Look at all the show cars built with big horsepower engines, just so they can brag about how much Horsepower car has to make us oooh and awaa.

Same can be said about most street builds with big HP, is it bragging rights more so than useable/needed power to get the job done?

Question I run into most of the time is people asking how much Horsepower my car has at rear wheels.
When I tell them the truth about how little it has, they say "I thought a car like that would have 600-700 HP.
I just tell them, "Why do you need big Horsepower if you can't use it." Car Smoke's the tires on the street, but can't spin them on a prepped track...LOL

360 RWHP, 12.1 to 11.97 in 1/4, 2.01 to 1.97 60' time 300 TW tires I can't spin at track, 117 MPH to 120 MPH, 3559 LBs with driver and 4 gallons of fuel, with 52% of that weight on rear tires and 48% on front. Rear Tires, more Rub than Scrub.

[will69camaro]

Awesome response^^^

I agree with it all. My goals are 3500lb, 1100rwhp, high 8s at 150+

All going right it should do it and be docile enough to go on power tour which. Is the plan for 2015! I hope to make drag week at some point also.

Part of my build keeping me from calling it a pro-touring build and simply saying restomod is I didn't opt for all out track function (twisties) like the theme suggests. It should so ok with full DSE setup and stiff chassis (welded subframe/ connectors and a cage) but it's just a car I built to enjoy driving.

[Dusold]

There are a lot of factors involved that affect putting power down. Where your car makes power and how is very important. I rarely use my 1000hp tune unless I'm over 100mph. Rear suspension geometry is super important also.

[Ron S]

Same as any car, big HP can be pedaled. Drove Mustang to the track, didn't even check air pressure on BFG KDW's (300 tw). Still went 10.94 in the quarter mile, spun a bit but managed to keep it straight for a decent pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-oChZkQGsA

[Typhoon1015]

The Chevelle I built is around 750-800WHP. That is on 17-18psi. I turn down the boost on the street, but depending on weight/passengers it will still hook decent at speeds. Boosted HP is alot different than N/A hp in the power ramps in as speed goes up. Depending on how fast it spools helps it not blow the tires off as much. I also run a 3.31 gear which helps the traction issue with higher hp.

Example: 2 guys riding in the car=+400 lbs, plus a trunk full of 2 coolers of beer= 800whp dead hooking at 50mph on 18 inch 295 kdw's.

It's all what you get used to really and how good you are at pedaling. IMO anything over 600-700 whp is pretty much worthless as far as trying to hook and not spin at speeds on the street. For a PT or street car anything more than that is just a # and is for bragging rights really.

[High Plains Mopars]

I'd be curious how many of these 1000 hp cars are actually getting driven aggressively to a point where 200tw tires are a liability. Sure, we see a some at the Optima USC races. There are a few that show up at Good guys. There may even be a few that run SCCA CAM. However, I'd postulate that the vast majority of them don't ever get driven to a level that hooking up is ever a concern. Like it or not, there is a high percentage of pro-touring cars that are nothing more than pro-parking. In that regard, its not considerably different than Pro Street of the 80-90s or any of the 600hp blown big block street rods you see at any show across the country.

Thinking back to when PHR was still alive, 4 out of 5 builds that published usually had a line something like "the owner has not tracked the car yet but thinks 9s are possible." Similarly, what is the membership here on PT.com? 10k? 20k? Out of those members, how many do you see getting into deeply technical discussions about actual performance improvements beyond asking how do I fit 315s on my car?

If the few that do get beat on are any indication, its like RonS said above, you just have to learn how to peddle it once you have optimized geometry.

[manOwar]

This was when my GT500 was at 725whp. The tire was a 275 Nitto N555 which is a 300tw... they wanted no part of boost! I tried MT's and Nitto DR's with no sucess. But, M&H DR's would dead hook in second even on the race tune making 826 at the wheel. M&H are the only DR I will run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56S_kP_rzpw

[mmosley]

Targeting a little under 600hp with the new heads, 6 spd, and EFI. Old heads, auto, and carb was about 550hp. Hooked pretty good w/ 325/50-15 DRs. Current tire for the new set up is 200TW 295/40-18. Have the FAST XFI 2.0 w/ ITC and plan to use the ITC. I have room under the back to go 325/30-19 for sure, maybe even 345 for a regular street tire. I guess we will see.

There is a nice 325/40-18 DR made by M&H that I could use for straight line acceleration trials at the appropriate closed course facility... my old 15x10s w/ the drag radials just might clear my new brakes, I need to check.

[gmorris]

My 69 chevelle with a 800HP flywheel big block and 315/30/18 R888's would hook perfectly in second and above if the street was warm. First would obviously light them up if you wanted but you can easily manage the power. It actually amazed me how well it hooked up. Wasn't an issue at all on the road course either.

[TheJDMan]

I'm right at 550hp to the rear wheels on Dust Off and truth be told I don't think I would want much more than that. My 385 SBC builds good torque but is very drivable so long as the throttle is not used like an on/off switch. It will easily spin the 335/30-18s KDWs in first and second by simply stomping the throttle. However, the car is completely able to drive in stop and go traffic with no problem. I have to admit that the first time I laid into the throttle I was caught a little off guard at how easily the tires broke loose. But once I became familiar with the car it has a very predictable power curve. Bottom line is that I did not build a drag car (been there, done that) and frankly I could care less what my 1/4 mile time might be. I built a car that was fun to drive in on a road course or autocross or just to cruse twisty back roads. I personally don't see any point to a 1000hp on the street beyond bragging rights.

[Rod]

part of the traction is in the suspension tune, doesn't matter if a drag car or Autox car....if you put 600 HP in a factory chassis...it will suck....its not designed for it,,,and self control also helps...I was just in Vegas at Optima and a friend of mine drives a GTR (all wheel drive, big hp) and we were cruising on the freeway and at 75mph he down shifted and lit up all four tires at speed (smoke coming off and all) and he does daily drive the monster...some of the traction is called restraint.....my car Jane wont do it at 75 but at 50mph she will slip the rear sideways till you let off the throttle

HP helps on the large tracks (road courses) the Goodguys little tracks have become larger also ...for example at scottsdale I was on the rev limiter (7000rpm) in second gear on the straightaway and for my car that 70mph

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/10329888_10203709227641644_2475257602605-1.jpg

[Bill Howell]

My charger has 540 HP at the crank and dynoed 426 at the rear wheels a few years ago. Plenty for sure. Six speed and 410 rear gears. I drive the car regularly on the street, both in town and not as much as I used to , but trips too. The car has been driven to Vegas twice for SEMA. Yes, you can't dump the clutch, but regular daily driving is fun, and I love loping down the street at the rod runs here locally. The only time it gets edgy at all is in the rain. You have to be careful shifting gears very gently in the rain or you will find yourself headed in a different than desired direction.

[1966longroof]

The control is the right foot. Larry Larson (5-Time Drag Week Champion) was often seen driving his Chevy II to and from work, running errands, etc. even in the rain. I never heard or read anything from him saying that 2000 hp was difficult to handle on the street.

[72BBSwinger]

I have Toyo RA1 335/30/18's and these things are amazing. They last, even with a 100AA rating, and hook amazing once in 2nd gear. First is a joke even with 28x12.50 ET street slicks on the street. If you're scared of power or don't have the common sense to treat the car different on public roads, your gonna be in for a real treat.

[tazzz25906112]

It's not how much power you have,, it's how much common sense you have in my opinion... I drive my cars (all range from mid 500FTlbs of torque to 644 at the wheel) on the street regularly and adjust accordingly in my driving style... Save the real spirited driving for the track,,, otherwise no matter how it's setup they call them accidents and we've all likely had one in our time (again no matter how the car is setup)....

[nokones]

Also, you can design the engine build with less low-end torque so you don't blow off the tires if you mash the throttle. If the motor is already built, drive the car with some throttle discipline. Drive it like you have a raw egg between your foot and the pedal.

[Ron Sutton]

OP,

If you are interested in how to get the most grip/traction during throttle roll on ... for autocross or track events ... post your question in my rear suspension track performance thread & I'll share some keys to achieve it.

Thread is here: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/111964-Rear-Suspension-amp-Geometry-for-Track-Performance

:cheers:

[MonzaRacer]

Yeah traction IS a lot about tuning the geometry like Ron Sutton will prove. Most suspension modifiers have little clue HOW to dial in a car too hook under different conditions. I learned a long time ago from lots of work, study and some great books and teachers.
Also being able too see , in my head, how the cars parts are working help.
Learning more road/track oriented tuning is in my future.
77 Chevy Monza 2+2 hatchback.
Gonna run a 283/double humps and LT1 fi intake then add in twin eBay gt2871r .64ar turbos. It will most likely run a Comp 268h and STILL push from 550-650 HP in a 97in wheel base car. And most likely widest tire will be 275 in front.
Bad thing is unless I do some serious clearance work my max front tire is in 215-225.
ALSO I am dumping the torque arm setup as it eats up exhaust room and I just hate torque arm setups, especially if they tie into trans case.
My plan has always been to build a bolt in cross member that has both 4 link and 3 link mounts for ability to choose. I also talked to Jim at Fays2 about a Wattslink he even said his fab guy could make the adapters for smaller axle tubes for me.
But for me I also will be able to dial back my power due too the turbos having integral WG, and will hit higher (15-16psi) boost using a controller.
But still even at lower boost levels I'll have traction issues and in a 97 in wb car. Tires suspension design and tuning will be critical.
Also in not having funds to buy 12 different tw tires and multiple wheels.

[chichirone]

Our cars have 600+hp and ridetech 4-links on both. While they do not have the forward bite of a 3-link, they are very streetable. My Camaro has 275's square and 4.11gears with a TKO600. I run Dunlop Direzza's. It's pretty easy to break the tires loose when I want to but it is an awesome driver. Our TA has 335's square with 3.42 gears and its a completely different driving experience. Power comes on later and definitely not nearly as loose in the rear as the Camaro. The suspension tune is key IMO. Dialing in the shocks and having a street setting vs track setting makes a big difference. The most important adjustment is the driver. It requires restraint when the d-bag in the family truckster pulls out in front of you and all you want to do is pound on the angry pedal.

[tazzz25906112]

Our cars have 600+hp and ridetech 4-links on both. While they do not have the forward bite of a 3-link, they are very streetable. My Camaro has 275's square and 4.11gears with a TKO600. I run Dunlop Direzza's. It's pretty easy to break the tires loose when I want to but it is an awesome driver. Our TA has 335's square with 3.42 gears and its a completely different driving experience. Power comes on later and definitely not nearly as loose in the rear as the Camaro. The suspension tune is key IMO. Dialing in the shocks and having a street setting vs track setting makes a big difference. The most important adjustment is the driver. It requires restraint when the d-bag in the family truckster pulls out in front of you and all you want to do is pound on the angry pedal.

What r you doing typing???? Get out there and pound that angry peddle.....

[shmoov69]

It's not how much power you have,, it's how much common sense you have in my opinion... I drive my cars (all range from mid 500FTlbs of torque to 644 at the wheel) on the street regularly and adjust accordingly in my driving style... Save the real spirited driving for the track,,, otherwise no matter how it's setup they call them accidents and we've all likely had one in our time (again no matter how the car is setup)....

What Albert said. You gotta use your head. I don't have 1000hp, but about 700+ at the wheels now, with an insane amount of TQ from the turbos. If you Matt it from a stop (or pretty much anywhere!) it can get out of control in a hurry. If you use your head and roll into it safely, you have controlled tire spin and then leave the WOT for big open spaces. 3/4 throttle is PLENTY for playing around!! LoL! But, like any man (almost), build it if you can and use it only when necessary... Remember Tim Allen on Tool Time? LoL!
Suspension and tires big as noted too. With the composite leaf springs I used to have, straight line was about it under power because it would axle wrap and then spin very easily. After we built the TQ arm setup, is spins, but it goes as its spinning. Before it was almost like a top fuel and "got up on the tires", now it is trying to bite as its going.

Use your head and biger power is fine.... Not necessary, but sure fun when you want it! LoL!

[Neil B]

I have tried several different combinations. 670rwhp with 315-30-18 BFG drag radials would not hook until top of 3rd gear. 315-30-18 MT ET Streets would spin in 2nd but hold 3rd pretty well when new. With 315-35-18 Toyo TQ radials same story but you could feel them break away better. If the roads are cold, forget about it - the car would spin in 4th gear at 100 mph on any tire. My new motor made 800+ to the wheels and I used 345-35-18 Hoosier R6's. This combo would normally hold if I rolled into the throttle slowly in 3rd. Every now and then they would surprise you and break lose in 3rd or 4th gear 80+ mph. I also tried 325-710-19 GTO Continental Road race slicks at the Texas Mile. Bad wheel spin with these in 2nd but would hold full throttle at the top of 3rd.

Take your time and get used to big power or it will bite you. You always have to be on your toes.