Chevelle LS1 Motor Mount/ Oil Pan/ Spacer Problem.

[626Chevelle]

I have a 1968 CHEVELLE and a LS1 Swap was just completed with GM performace Muscle Car Oil Pan. The centerlink and tie rod were hitting the large pan when I would turn to wheel lock. I bought some 1/2 " inch spacers to lift the motor. Now I have the spacers in and I can't get the mounts to alighn so I can bolt it up. Any recommendations?

i know people are going to say to buy another smaller pan from Holley etc. But I'm trying to save money.


Thanks

James

[alocker]

There will be no money saved when you smash your current pan because it hangs too low. The Holley pans are on sale now, it's really the right way to do it.

[626Chevelle]

You're right. Just checking to see if someone had a cheaper solution

[raustinss]

You have the wrong mix of parts, I can't recall which motor mount "bases" you need but I do know some of the A body guys swap out the inner tie rods for ones with the grease fittings which come at a 90 . I will see what I can dig up as for other info and tips

[Bonehead]

I used the Canton pan because it supports a stroker. It fit perfectly.


106690106691

[IMPALA MAN]

Google "Adapter Plates be careful" and you will find my thread on where your problem may be. I promise it will be worth in. PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.

[andrewb70]

Be careful when raising the engine to clear tie rods. The driveline angles are bad enough with a LS swap, and raising the engine further will only make the problem worse!

Andrew

[IMPALA MAN]

You may need to purchase the trans tunnel pan from speedtech. Go check out their website

[garys 68]

Well, as others have mentioned, the muscle car pan hangs way low, even on a stock suspension. I went with the CTS-V pan which still hangs below the crossmember, but only about 3/4". With stock ride height, not an issue.
I think all but the new holley pan will contact the grease fittings on the tie rods. The 90 degree fittings actually protrude farther. My solution was to grease them, remove the fittings, plug the holes with an allen head set screw. I put the grease fittings back in once a year to regrease.
Ideally, some time in the future I'll buy new inner tie rod ends, plug the existing hole, drill and tap for a different location.
You'll want to lose the spacers, probably cause more issues than they're worth.

[dhutton]

The Mast pan is another option here. The GM muscle pan really has no place in just about any LS swap into an older muscle car. It just doesn't work in my opinion.

Don

[csouth]

F-Body pans work too and they are plentiful. If you wanted to raise the motor, I would have put a plate between the frame and the frame stands. As Andrew said, you want to be careful with driveline angles. He's done a few of these, so I'm sure he knows.

[vintageracer]

Remember that there are 3 DIFFERENT frame engine mounts that bolt to the frame on a 68-72 Chevelle for the different V8 engine options that were available in a Chevelle/Malibu from 68-72. 1 is for a Big Block engines, 1 for a Small Block engines and 1 that is SPECIFIC for a 307 engine ONLY. IF for example you were trying to mount a 327-350 small block engine with stock engine mounts for a 327-350 in a Chevelle with 307 engine frame mounts you will have a Hell of a time trying to get the engine mounts on a 327-350 to fit into the 307 frame mounts as they are different and position the engine different in the chassis.

Now how does this relate to an LS swap?

Answering a few questions might just solve your problems. First do you know what engine was originally installed in your car? Second does your car still have the original frame mounted engine mounts and/or do you actually KNOW which of the 3 frame engine mounts are installed on your frame? Third are the engine mounts you purchased compatible with the engine frame mounts bolted to the frame in your car?

IF your car was originally equipped with a 307 and still has the original 307 frame engine mounts this could very well be your problem as I must assume that all the LS engine mounted engine mounts are manufactured for the small block or big block frame engine mounts and NOT the unique 307 frame engine mounts. The 307 engine frame mounts are very different from the 327-350 frame mounts and the big block frame mounts. When all 3 are placed side by side it's very obvious how different they are!

Something to consider as to why you are having problems and a possible solution!

Here is another thread you may wish to reference to see different frame engine mounts:

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/108129-LSx-a-body-motor-mounts-what-to-look-for

[626Chevelle]

You have the wrong mix of parts, I can't recall which motor mount "bases" you need but I do know some of the A body guys swap out the inner tie rods for ones with the grease fittings which come at a 90 . I will see what I can dig up as for other info and tips

Thanks a lot I appreciate that.

[626Chevelle]

Fits perfect Bonehead

[Motown 454]

You went with the Canton pan?

[gray86hach]

The holley pan with their baffle if you are going to auto cross it. I used it on dads car with no issues with the tie rods.

Ground clearance is great

I have the mast pan for my wifes camaro.

Tim

[626Chevelle]

You went with the Canton pan?


I'm going to order the holley pan tonight.

[626Chevelle]

I'm going to order the Holley LS1 Pan. Which one do you recommend 302-1 or 302-2? I'm looking at the 302-2.

Thanks fellas for the advice.

[dhutton]

You need the 302-2, their newest version.

Don

[626Chevelle]

Ordered the pan 302-2 and should be delivered today. I'll let you guys know how it worked. Thanks for the responses and help fellas.