Cheapest Cars to Build?

[theFordguy]

I made a post a while back asking for suggestions and ideas on cars to build, I still havent found one, but i really want one and I have found several i like. But now that i think about it... What is the cheapest car to build up? I even thought about a truck but i figured it would take to much to make it handle right.

I dont know a whole lot and I dont have alot of money. Im 17 and addicted to cars.

SO what is out there to build that is fairly cheap to buy and easy to work on?

[BMR Sales]

Fox Body Mustangs, GM G-Bodies come to mind

[Rod]

Fox Body Mustangs, GM G-Bodies come to mind

cheap to buy and easy to build up

[Restomod]

You didnt mention how much $ you have to get started with. There are cheap that end up not so cheap, I mean you can buy a cheap but rusty hulk and start from there and it wont be cheap in the end if you get that far. Or you can buy a 3rd gen camaro that runs and drives very reasonable and start there. To me the would be the better choice.

[Nicks67GTO]

X3 on the Fox and GM G body stuff

[Schwartz Performance]

How are G-bodies cheap?? 28" chrome rims ain't cheap!!!


But in all seriousness, I agree with everything above.

-Dale

[Ben@SpeedTech]

A lot of us started in your shoes. I bought my first car at 16 and it broke down 3 months later. A few months after that I bought my first Nova for $500 in 1987, and on a high school budget over a couple years I turned it into a fun car. Over time it became an 11 second street strip car and it was a blast to drive. Novas have gotten spendy for a first car on a small budget but I've found if you're patient a good deal always comes along. My son is 16 and we recently bought his first car, a 78 Cutlass G body wagon for $500. he's already done some cheap visual upgrades with a few rattle cans of Rustoleum, we've got an inexpensive set of Trans Am 16" GTA wheels on it and we've put a bunch of decent used suspension parts on it so he can do decent at autocrossing. Here's his build thread- Coppertop Wagon (https://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=49887&hilit=coppertop#.VIcjpWczCM0)

G bodies are often overlooked by people who are focused on early muscle cars. They have a 108" wheel base like a first gen Camaro, they weigh about the same as an average muscle car, and there is more and more aftermarket suspension support for them. At Speedtech we just developed the first real front coilover conversion to compliment the full suspension system we already sell. G bodies can swallow big tires with the right offset wheels and up to 315s out back if you notch the frame, which anyone that can weld can handle. You can run any drivetrain a Camaro can take too. G body guys are fairly tight knit so there's a few good forums out there with plenty of info and interior and exterior parts are fairly easy to get your hands on too. etc. etc.

I bought my 79 Cutlass wagon for $300 because it had a little front end body damage and ran terrible. $75 got me front end parts from a parts car and the motor just needed some tuning. Now about 4 years later and maybe $8500 total I have a pretty competitive autocross car with a lot more potential as the budget allows. A really nice stock G body won't sell for much more than $2000-3000 so there's a lot of potential to have an inexpensive platform to start a project on. The biggest draw back is that they don't have much of a resale value, so if you build one, it's likely a keeper, or maybe a tax write off, lol!

Let me know if you have any specific G body questions. Good luck with finding a car that suits you!

Here's some recent shots of my car. It's a daily driver so it has some door dings, paint chips, and I get to beat on it everyday and not worry about tearing up a classic muscle car with a lot of value. It runs a 406 small block Chevy and gets 18 mpg on the highway. It was definitely built with a low budget and runs, drives, and competes fantastic.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/pmk001_zps5ed19778-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/pmk031_zps755e71c1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/pmk037_zpsf16edd7a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/pmk058_zps0ee3df7f-1.jpg

[xavier296]

+100 on Fox body mustangs. At an autocross this weekend, a bone stock 93 GT hatch ran the same times as a 2008 GT500. They only get better from there, and the aftermarket is huge. My first fast car was a fox, and I recommend them all the time.

[Auto Rod Technologies]

I have had a few fox bodied stangs myself.. I agree that you get a lot for you're money there.
I also like trucks but I see that being more than a fox body by the time you are done.

[Buryingthesun]

please. . . . I hope all the kids buy up the fox bodies and crash them. . . PLEASE GOD I HATE THOSE CARS SO MUCH

[slowcpe]

Coming from a guy who sold his last fox body last year to build a truck, I'll tell you a foxbody is much cheaper :) I wouldn't trade my c10 for the world and in fact is what I wanted ever since before I got my drivers license. I've looked back at what I've spent on this truck and could've had the car done already. Definitely a lot of bang for the buck which is why I got into them over 20 years ago.

[raustinss]

Your profile name says it all....FORD guy.....go buy yourself a fix body mustang and enjoy the cheap plentiful parts...as a gm guy I've always said a fox body with a LS gm engine....perfect for fast cheap and reliable...good luck

[Nothingface5384]

How are G-bodies cheap?? 28" chrome rims ain't cheap!!!
But in all seriousness, I agree with everything above.

-Dale
28s are old school 35s on finance plan brah lol

What about a 2nd gen nova
Ive never seen a running one more then 1500 around here...uses same front subframe as 2nd gen camaro

[howehot]

Hmmm, G bodies are cheap to build? I must be doing something wrong, lol. My vote is also for the G body. Take your time and find a clean care so your not spending time on rust repair. So many companies have stepped up recently to get them competitive on the track. Small blocks are cheap and easy to get power out of.

[Kenova]

The cheapest car to build is the one that doesn't need body or paint work.

Ken

[Tomswheels]

Nothing makes power cheaper than a Chevy Small Block. Relatively cheap Chevys that handle good out of the box are 82-92 Camaros, and C4 Corvettes. Start rust free, make sure suspension bushings, shocks and tires are decent, and get out and get tracking!

[72BBSwinger]

Miata.

[Interceptor5588]

Thirdgen IROC or Formula

[Bonehead]

I really hate to agree, but the fox body mustang is probably the cheapest. I think that's fading quick though. Those cars have regained their popularity. Though still plenty out there unmolested. The g body stuff though. Wholly cow. I tried to buy one a year ago and the only things I could find under $5000 were rusted out piles. Everyone is darn proud of those Malibus and El Caminos. Wow.

[theFordguy]

Thank you all for your suggestions
But I actually already have a 93 foxbody, 2.3L
And Ive already tore it apart once,
I tore it down, then me and my dad did a ton of body work to it, then painted it.
I dont think he would let me turn my daily driver into a cheap racecar
I love foxbodies but with all the work ive done and the things i would love to do it, i dont want to have to tear it down again and not have a daily driver to go to school in.

[BMR Sales]

Well, if you already have a Fox and torn it apart, doing another one would be easier on the knowledge side

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

first gen celicas... firstgen 240/60/80Zs... maybe still 240sx's

[jerome]

I dont think he would let me turn my daily driver into a cheap racecar


If a cheap racecar is what you are after, finding something that has already been turned into a racecar is going to be far cheaper than building a racecar out of a street car.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

What's the difference between a race car and a street car? My car has a stout suspension, an 8 pt cage, fully braced frame, and a mildly healthy small block. I drive it to work every day and it gets 18 mpg on the highway. I both drag and autocross race it as often as I can. In my mind it's 100% street car that tears it up on the track. I've never considered it a "race" car. Really Pro Touring is about building "race" car performance with street car manners. That's easy to do.

If you have a fox body 'Stang, take the $ you would spend on another car and put some decent suspension and some 18" wheels and decent tires on your fox. There are two resources I know of for nice "replica" Mustang wheels for under $150 ea for 18's. It's not hard to make plenty of autocross power with a transplanted 5.0, or even turbo the 4 banger. I say go for it, you're already half way there!

[theFordguy]

Ive never really thought about it that way.
The only thing that makes me not want to do it is the fact that i wanted to cut into something and fabricate things and weld and design.
Im decent and metal working and welding, Ive taken tech classes my 4 years of highschool.
I just cant find it in me to cut into a car that has just been painted and had body work done to it. If that makes sense.
Matter of fact i just finished putting the last pieces on it a bit over a month ago

[Ben@SpeedTech]

To build a "fun" (let's substitute that for "race" right now) car you really don't need to do a lot of fab work to make it handle well. Most parts to get your car on the autocross are simple bolt ins. Again, you can easily have that while still driving it to school. Once you have all the parts, normally a good solid weekend and you've got a whole new suspension and personality in your car. Only thing I can think of that you'd have to weld is a roll bar and frame connectors, (chime in here Fox guys). The roll bar is a safety thing and along with frame connectors help stiffen things a bit But in reality you don't need those to be competitive.

Perhaps we assumed you wanted a mainly driver/ occasional track car, sounds like the cutting and fabbing is moving you more towards the "show" end of pro touring. That's a tough one to pull off cheap, and they take a long time to build so driving it may not be for 2-3 years if you're on a really tight budget.

Clarifying what I said earlier, if you want to get some fun decent track time in with your daily driver, you can do that relatively inexpensively with the car you have. If you want a WOW! pro touring car, start saving your pennies.

Buying someone's bailed out on project is a good way to get a car already half done, you always pay less than what the other person has into it.

[theFordguy]

Thank you
I wouldnt say that i want a show car, I mean i do want a nice car, but no high end build type of car.
Fun is exactly the word i was looking for when i made the post. I want a car that I can go cruising around in whenever i want and to be able to try to autocross it.
I want something different and to do it up differently than someone else would.
I do want a WOW pro touring style car but nothing too fancy. I love patina and rust and bare metal or satin or matte paint.
Heck, I even think primer looks good.

[Aficionado]

Mustang parts are no doubt cheaper (at least they were last time I looked), but there's a fair amount of potential in the C3 Corvettes, and the mid-to-late 70's ones go begging. Already have IRS and four wheel disc brakes. A lot of DIY tech out there on them, and mods run from easy bolt-ins to serious aftermarket chassis with late-model Vette suspension.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

How about let us see the Mustang? Got pics? :)

[theFordguy]

Of course, I just dont have any of what it started out as
106359

[theFordguy]

Dont you just love it when computers dont work right?

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Can you run a 275 on the front of those things? If not, these wheels would look killer with a set of 255-40 and 275-40 17s...

You can't beat a price like $114 per wheel for a 17x9.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-2003-cobra-wheel-7993.html#shop-by1

[silvermonte]

Im going to go with Ben on this one. Throw some 17s or 18s on that thing and go to an auto-x. Then replace one part at a time as you see fit. I have a buddy that autos his completly stock 66 mustang. So I would see no problems with you car being able to do that.

[jlcustomz]

Any car will pass up cheap when you want to build it into something really competitive.

Probably the best deal out there is something someone already spent a great deal of their money properly modifying with quality parts, then has an urgent need for money, taking what they can get.

This requires luck , something many of us never seem to have enough of.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Im going to go with Ben on this one. Throw some 17s or 18s on that thing and go to an auto-x. Then replace one part at a time as you see fit. I have a buddy that autos his completly stock 66 mustang. So I would see no problems with you car being able to do that.

True true! This past season we brought my son's wagon to an SCCA autocross event with only the 16" wheels and my old Varishocks on the rear as upgrades over the factory 1978 all original (including blown out factory front shocks) suspension. I took a lap in his car and it was more fun to drive than mine, I had a blast trying to not fly across the bench seat with it's factory seat belt and major body roll. I shaved one of the front tires half way down the side wall fighting understeer, but I was laughing and wooting through the whole course. Now we've got the Varishocks all around, lowered heavier rate springs, performance control arms front and rear, and new steering linkage and ball joints. It still has factory front and rear sway bars which will be upgraded in time. The next event for us will be in March as we (im)patientiently wait for winter to leave. The coolest thing is that he raced it basically stock, and now he'll race it with some decent upgrades. Next on the list is sway bars, 18" wheels and more power and by then he'll be an even better driver. The build as you go method takes the edge off of the pain of dropping all the coin at once, and you become a better driver while your car becomes a better car. You also learn a lot about suspension systems and how different parts affect your handling. It's a win win deal.

My car is a little rough around the edges looks wise so I was a little embarrassed to take it to a big pro touring event. What I found is that no one cared what it looked like or how fast it was, but everyone supported me showing up and joining in the fun. There were slower cars and faster cars and a couple lot more ugly cars than mine there, but that didn't matter, all in all we all had a great time and ultimately that's what it's really all about.

[theFordguy]

Can you run a 275 on the front of those things? If not, these wheels would look killer with a set of 255-40 and 275-40 17s...

You can't beat a price like $114 per wheel for a 17x9.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-2003-cobra-wheel-7993.html#shop-by1

I do like those wheels, Im just not sure what I want to do
If i were to go and build up my car I would want it took look something like this:106385
I know it is probably out of my reach to do a car like that, but thats what I would want to do, I love the fenders on this thing

[Ben@SpeedTech]

That's a pretty wicked 'Stang and I don't even like Fords, lol! That pic is a great example of what you can do with a Fox body, so really unless you just plain want to build a different car your answer for your original question is in the garage. If you're anxious to get on the track, Like Nike says, just do it. In time you can add stuff like the spendy wide wheels and widebody fenders and 1/4 panels and high hp engine, and ...

The other philosophy is build it slowly over time to spread the cost and when it hits the ground it's done. I collected parts for 3 years before my 1st Nova was ready to go drag racing. Having gone through that to me the first option above sounds a lot more fun. :)

[Jetfixr320]

I do like those wheels, Im just not sure what I want to do
If i were to go and build up my car I would want it took look something like this:106385
I know it is probably out of my reach to do a car like that, but thats what I would want to do, I love the fenders on this thing

That makes me want to go buy another Coupe.

[andrewb70]

Second Gen RX7 with a LS swap.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wimCgP3iY4&list=UU8a3QHlrv6ZmwvkR8gqPfiw

Andrew

[79-TA]

I'm a fox chassis Mustang proponent, but the recommendations on this thread are getting a bit rose colored. You can do a lot to a fox chassis Mustang for not much, but limitations and difficulties exist.

To address a question above, you're basically limited to a 245mm wide tire up front if you're not cutting up the fenders. Running 245/40/17's on my Mustang resulted in slightly reduced steering angle with the inside of the 8x17" wheel hitting the anti-roll bar. I think with the amount of camber I was running, I could have fit 9" wheels and maybe a 265mm tire with absolutely perfect offset and a bit less steering angle . . . which was already insufficient in stock trim for making tight u-turns. Yes, I had rolled the fenders out.

The 4 link rear, despite being "triangulated", has trouble controlling lateral movement of the rear beam axle. The fox chassis is ridiculously floppy without a cage or bracing. Once I started getting my car dialed in, I kept chasing alignment settings as the car would just flex more with more grip.

A '94-'95 Mustang is a much better starting point for a build concerned with handling. You get a stiffer chassis, 5 lug hubs, bigger front brakes, and rear disc brakes. Another option is to cannibalize an early SN95 and put the parts on your fox while adding a cage or other bracing. I would love to go back and do this to a notchback car. It really is nice having access to so many cheap used aftermarket parts on craigslist. My '87 GT sourced almost every upgraded part from Craigslist.



I'm not saying any of this to be discouraging, but just realize that there are hurdles with the fox platform. Once you get to a certain performance level with a fox Mustang, it makes more economic sense to just start with a more capable platform. Economic sense isn't the whole story though . . . otherwise I'd not be into the pro-touring scene.


Here's a picture of my car from a couple of years ago.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[theFordguy]

I'm a fox chassis Mustang proponent, but the recommendations on this thread are getting a bit rose colored. You can do a lot to a fox chassis Mustang for not much, but limitations and difficulties exist.

To address a question above, you're basically limited to a 245mm wide tire up front if you're not cutting up the fenders. Running 245/40/17's on my Mustang resulted in slightly reduced steering angle with the inside of the 8x17" wheel hitting the anti-roll bar. I think with the amount of camber I was running, I could have fit 9" wheels and maybe a 265mm tire with absolutely perfect offset and a bit less steering angle . . . which was already insufficient in stock trim for making tight u-turns. Yes, I had rolled the fenders out.

The 4 link rear, despite being "triangulated", has trouble controlling lateral movement of the rear beam axle. The fox chassis is ridiculously floppy without a cage or bracing. Once I started getting my car dialed in, I kept chasing alignment settings as the car would just flex more with more grip.

A '94-'95 Mustang is a much better starting point for a build concerned with handling. You get a stiffer chassis, 5 lug hubs, bigger front brakes, and rear disc brakes. Another option is to cannibalize an early SN95 and put the parts on your fox while adding a cage or other bracing. I would love to go back and do this to a notchback car. It really is nice having access to so many cheap used aftermarket parts on craigslist. My '87 GT sourced almost every upgraded part from Craigslist.



I'm not saying any of this to be discouraging, but just realize that there are hurdles with the fox platform. Once you get to a certain performance level with a fox Mustang, it makes more economic sense to just start with a more capable platform. Economic sense isn't the whole story though . . . otherwise I'd not be into the pro-touring scene.


Here's a picture of my car from a couple of years ago.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I understand what youre saying entirely and I know that you are not trying to be discouraging.
What would be a better platform than a Fox Body?

[bryant]

with your desire to fabricate, i would suggest building your own subframe connectors, strut tower brace, and rear control arms for your current mustang.
consider that it will make your daily driver that much more fun to drive every day.
i think the 4 cylinder foxs used a smaller front anti sway bar than the v8s, and dont have one on the rear. you should be able to go to the salvage yards and get the v8 anti sway bars.
i would suggest getting the global west front control arm bushings for the stock control arms, and some polyurethane rack and pinion bushings.
then switching to the sn95 spindles, brakes and rear diff will give you 5 lug and 4 wheel disk brakes. chances are you can find a sn95 8.8 diff with a lower gear already.
also the 4 cylinder is lighter weight than a v8 so you will have a lighter weight front end to work with.
down the road when you want more power the options are endless. you can swap an ls or a 5.0 windsor or coyote, or anything else that you can get a hold of.
its cheapest to work with what you have.

[srh3trinity]

I would start with a G-body or an lsx powered Camaro or firebird. You never mentioned a price range, but those f bodies have been getting cheaper and cheaper

[1965gp]

Can you give some clarification on what you want? Let's look at the goal and we can try to find something that fits. For example- you may feel like you need a classic muscle car- or it may be a requirement that it run a certain 1/4, or it may need to hold its own on an auto cross.

We all remember being where you are- I would say most of us went through this from 16-20 yrs of age.

Unlike the others I say leave the fox body alone- it's a 4cylinder and will never be extremely fun unless you swap a SBF or turbo it- and then you run the risk of blowing up your daily driver. Then you have a problem and your dad will be pissed. It's a nice car now- I would leave it as is.

[theFordguy]

Can you give some clarification on what you want? Let's look at the goal and we can try to find something that fits. For example- you may feel like you need a classic muscle car- or it may be a requirement that it run a certain 1/4, or it may need to hold its own on an auto cross.

We all remember being where you are- I would say most of us went through this from 16-20 yrs of age.

Unlike the others I say leave the fox body alone- it's a 4cylinder and will never be extremely fun unless you swap a SBF or turbo it- and then you run the risk of blowing up your daily driver. Then you have a problem and your dad will be pissed. It's a nice car now- I would leave it as is.

Im not so sure what I want exactly, I mean I have a pretty good idea, but I just like them all, its hard to choose.
Im not too picky on what Im looking for, i just want some form of car pre-1974, I dont want to have to deal with emissions crap.
I just want a project and to test what knowledge I have and learn from the experience.

No matter what vehicle i find, whether it be a Falcon, a Fairlane, a Wagon, a Nova, etc, I would like to build something that I can drive any day I want, rain or shine, and just enjoy it when i feel like driving it and I would also like to try to auto cross it.

[Tomswheels]

In that case, I'd go 65-66 Mustang. At least they are light..

[1965gp]

That's good info- makes a difference and in my opinion a good choice. There are several options - let's see what everyone suggests.

[theFordguy]

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

I have a ton of ideas for different cars and what I would do.
I just dont know whats out there thats easy to work on due to my lack of experience.
I was thinking of building a truck, but then I realized that it would be difficult for an inexperienced 17 yr old to try and make a truck handle and compete in autocross, so I scrapped that idea, but I do have many more for various vehicles.
Thinking of cars is what I do when I have nothing to do lol.

[Finch]

My advice would be to spend a little bit more initially and pick up an early SN197 Mustang GT (2005). Many great suspension options out there and you can fit a 315/30/18 on all 4 corners with no cutting of the factory sheet metal. Can be built to do both autocross and road course very well and is a good daily driver to top it off.

[1965gp]

If you want something pre 74 (or that era) you should look at cars that are not mainstream. Instead of a nova maybe look at a Buick Apollo, Olds Omega or Pontiac Ventura. All of the suspension will interchange with a 2nd gen F body. You can put pretty much any motor in it with almost no modification. Same goes with GM A bodies- off brands are cheaper but prices are still kind of high unless you look at the 73-77 cars. For Fords you could look at a Falcon, Ranchero, Comet or Maverick.

I would think you would want to look at cars that have a large aftermarket and have a large selection of used parts. For example- you wouldn't have any problem finding drop spindles or a clean set of 17's for next to nothing on this site. Most of the heavy hitters here are beyond 17's and tubular control arms- all of which you should be able to get used at a very reasonable cost.

Right now you don't need to re-invent the wheel. Go with proven (possibly dated) combos and you will be able to build a nice cruiser that will be a blast to drive. No need to be on the edge of technology if your budget won't allow it. People have been modifying these cars for 40 years and there are a lot of good tricks.

Hope this helps- it would have helped me when I was 17.

[06RangerSTX]

I would recommend a 1970-1972 Ford Maverick, Mustang parts and there is actually a aftermarket for this car! or a Chevy Vega GT, I have always wanted to build a Ford Courier or a Opel GT... All of these cars can be bought as a solid roller or running car for $3,000 or less...

[octane speed shop]

Fox body mustang is the best bang for the buck. what about a 1973-1987 chevy c10 square body, i found them around my area for about $1200-$2000. They won't take much more than drop spindles+springs, rear flip kit, and steel cragar soft 8 17's.

[79-TA]

I understand what youre saying entirely and I know that you are not trying to be discouraging.
What would be a better platform than a Fox Body?

A '94-'95 Mustang is a better starting point, but lacks some of the character of a fox.

The 245mm tire limitation isn't all bad. When you run enough events tires don't last very long. Having a common size like that makes finding new (or even used) tires a much more affordable experience. I tried all kinds of tires on the Fox . . . RS-3's, Star Specs, 615's, Ecsta XS's, etc. You can even sell your worn out tires to drift guys with a size like 245 40 17. From the standpoint of running costs and seat time, 245's are awesome.

A fox can be taken to that next level, at least in pure race car form. Look at Maier's national championship winning CP car or Ryan Walton's NASA AIX race car for good examples. Maybe getting big fender flares isn't such a big deal. :confused: I just never wanted to do it to my car.



Right now, I have probably the worst example of a 6 speed LT1 C4 Corvette that I can't recommend anyone buy. I haven't done enough with it to come to any solid overall conclusions.

In theory, the C4 has a lot going for it:
- well-designed suspension all around
- ability to fit big tires on all 4 corners
- decent power
- good ZF transmission
- low prices due to living in the shadow of the C5 and C6 while not yet being a classic

The major drawbacks of the C4 platform are very frustrating:
- bad ergonomics
- heavier than my fox Mustang
- bad visibility over the fenders/nose (this coming from a 2nd gen Trans Am owner)
- bad serviceability - you can never just access a given part without un-burying it out from under other parts. Currently, I'm angry with the clutch slave cylinder location and design.

I'll just say it was a lot more fun to have a reliably functioning Mustang than it is to have a potentially quick car that something is always wrong with . . . and then not fun to fix.


E36 M3's are also limited by tire width, but are a good budget candidate.

Occasionally, manual S197 Mustang GT's sell for less than 9k and would be a pretty good deal. You hit the $10k mark really quickly with something like that though.

[nekkidhillbilly]

80s b body gm is another cheapie. i got the one i had free and seeing the shared everything with a 2nd gen a body frame up wise parts are easy to come by. they arent real heavy either for a full size car. think mine weighed very little more than my 66 skylark. the best to build is a late 80s caprice. has the 8.5 rear 700r4 and a 350. they are factory 4 link rears also. finding 2 door ones are kinda tough though if it has to be 2 doors. but it is just as capable as a 70 chevelle when built up.

[wimsattk]

Volkswagans are by far the cheapest to build/rebuild

[BMR Sales]

Volkswagons are by far the cheapest to build/rebuild

Depends on which one

[dontlifttoshift]

pssshhh! There are two kinds of VWs, ones with the check engine light on and the ones with the bulb burned out.

Trying to go fast in an old beetle seems like an exercise in futility.

[BMR Sales]

pssshhh! There are two kinds of VWs, ones with the check engine light on and the ones with the bulb burned out.

Trying to go fast in an old beetle seems like an exercise in futility.

lol - spot-on