PDA

View Full Version : Drip rail removal on 67 Camaro



inSANe DIEGO
09-13-2004, 12:28 PM
Has anyone done this? I have a plasma cutter, grinder and 1/4 panel skin replacement bodywork experience. My main worry is will there have to be a lot of hacking involved or can i just cut them off and weld the joint? Will that joint hold up if I do that? My drip rails have some major rust in them and I'd like to clean up the look.

Thanks guys,
John

ProdigyCustoms
09-14-2004, 07:07 AM
That is a wicked edge to weld and finish. Warping of the entire roof edge is real easy, and a ***** to finish. If you are not a cracker jack welder, bodyman, you better sub it out or your roof could become ocean wavy.

inSANe DIEGO
09-14-2004, 01:18 PM
Ok, that's what I was thinking. I remember having to smooth out along the welds when I did my 1/4 panel skins. Back then I was naive enough to do 1 to 2 inch welds every foot or so until the skins were completely welded. =WARPAGE!!!! From what I can remember, the drip edge area is impossible to get to the inside of to metalwork. Would I be ok doing tiny spot or 1/4" welds (while letting the areas around the welds cool before continuing) until the entire edge was welded? How else could I fix the rust to maintain structural integrity and make it look good again? The shaved drips were just a "might as well do it if I'm working there" type of thing. I don't dislike them and if there was a way to fix them AND leave them I'd consider doing it. I'm looking for the best structural solution. If the welded edge would be structurally sound I'm up for the challenge.

Thanks

TA219
09-15-2004, 08:58 AM
I am curious about this topic now too after seeing this pic in the for sale section
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

could you shave it and use lead or body filler to fill the gap ??

DLinson
09-16-2004, 10:04 AM
I removed the drip rails on my 62 Nova. It took a little bit of time and it didn't warp the body or roof. I used a cut off wheel to cut the drip rail off about 1 or 2 inches at a time and then welded the gap. Weld about 1/2 inch let cool, weld another, let cool until the 1-2 inch gap was filled. Then cut off another 1-2 inch section and weld it. Repeat, repeat, repeat........ You will want to melt the lead out of the "A" pillar and "C" pillar where the roof is welded on. The lead will mess up the welding. They may have also brazed the roof to the pillars instead of welding, that's how my Nova was done. The brazing will also mess up the welding. Try to grind it out as well.

The Camaro looks smooth all of the way to the door oppening. My nova actually has a body line that I left in there about 1/2" above the opening. I also closed the gap between the rear side window molding and the roof and sail panel. The molding on my car is actually painted mild steel.

I'd give it a shot.

my Nova's body working page (http://www.et-motorsports.cc/project_cars/nova_62_menace/Construction/Body_work/index.htm)

Good Luck,
Dennis

TurboLark
09-16-2004, 10:30 AM
I am curious about this topic now too after seeing this pic in the for sale section
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

could you shave it and use lead or body filler to fill the gap ??
I think that it is a preety major structural area, thats why everyone says to be careful, and why it needs to be welded.

inSANe DIEGO
09-16-2004, 08:51 PM
I like it like this more! :bananna2:

Anyway. I'm guessing if I take my time and slowly stitch it together it should be fine. How about if I actually cut back about a half inch on either side of the edge and fabricated a 2 inch wide (1" x 1" brake) edge piece to weld in? That should be plenty strong then, ya think? I probably wouldn't do this until I had a roll cage installed- which should take a lot of stress off the welded edge (I hope.)