1967 Mustang L92/T56 Swap

[Zenith]

Here's a few pictures of the car prior to the swap.

It's not a real Shelby, I know it's a silly clone. I bought it that way.

This car is my DD and it occasionally sees auto-x and track use at Laguna Seca and Thunderhill.

I don't feel the need to explain the benefits of the LS platform to this crowd. The Coyote/Ford Mod Motor was ignored because they're huge engines that would require me to chop out the shock towers and get a brand new suspension setup. Besides, I like the pushrod design more for it's ease of modification. The LS beats the Windsor platform on account of it having fuel injection without having to go to a pricey aftermarket unit and coming stock from the factory with loads of displacement from an aluminum block.

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The car has already had these mods:

-4-piston 11" front disc brakes
-Maier subframe connectors
-Maier control arms, springs, Koni Dampers, 1-1/8" Anti Roll Bar
-Moser 9" with Strange axles, 3.73 final drive, TrueTrac Torsen Diff
-Dual 2.25" Exhaust

The leaving engine was a stock 289 with an Edelbrock carb and intake. It felt like about 200hp.

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Onto the swap.

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The engine is an L9H out of a Yukon Denali. It's basically an L92 with better injectors, which is basically an L99 with a truck intake, which is basically an LS3 with Variable Valve Timing, slightly lower compression, and a heavier intake valve.

The engine was given a TSP VVT-3 cam, better pushrods, dual .650 lift springs, a stock LS3 intake, and a C5R timing chain. I anticipate it will make about 425whp.

I decided to keep the VVT because I was not planning on running a monster cam and figured that the extra power at lower RPM's would be nice. It limits my cam options, but the MAST and TSP options impressed me enough to stick with it.

I also installed a Stage 2 Monster Clutch with a lighter flywheel.

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The transmission is a "Stage 2" T56 out of a 4th F-body rebuilt by Mark Corbett (aka gnx7 with an LS swapped FD RX-7). It will use an MGW shifter.

A GTO oil pan was required to make the engine fit the rear-steer design. In addition, the crossmember and steering was replaced with a TCP rack and pinion kit. This kit replaces both units with a single piece, and should help the car around the autocross course. I sure am tired of cranking and cranking and cranking the wheel to make it change direction.

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Fowler Automotive took care of the fabrication to mount the engine and transmission. We used 4th Gen F-body "clamshell" mounts with a polymer transmission mount.

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The Ford motor mount points are incredibly weak on these old things. You can crush them with a wrench, nut and bolt. These motor mounts distribute the forces across several points. The engine has also been dropped and set backwards a few inches to improve weight distribution.

Old mounts for comparison... The old steering gear and crossmember are visible.

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Here's a picture of how the headers will have to run. The tie rods are attached to the wrong points on the rack, I'll fix this soon.

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Here's how it sits now.

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The last truly difficult thing to do is headers. The engine is set back and dropped a few inches, so this will be a challenge to do without going to a full custom set.

351W headers were an option, but since the engine sits so much lower than stock I don't think it will work. Knowing that the deck height of the LS3 sits somewhere between the 351W and 302/289W, I'm considering trying some 302W longtubes to see if they fit.

If anyone has any leads, suggestions, or ideas on headers, I'd be more than happy to hear about them.

[no go nova]

Nice swap, and mods to keep the stock front end.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Very cool, love the car!

[MSTSFabbed]

Oh man this is awesome!
Please keep us updated, pics and details, I'm very interested in this one.

I've been DD a 67 coupe for a couple years now and the steering is done and my little warmed over 289 is getting quite cool.
What are you planning on doing for wiring?
Less important, but how did the T56 line up with the stock shifter hole? How would trans tunnel clearance be if you didn't lower it that much?

Keep up the good work man!

[wfo guy]

I'm watching.

[pro67coupe]

great looking car man

[Bossed]

Damn

[reedld]

Wow! I realllllly like this!

Any chance the oem exhaust manifolds work? If you are set on headers..I have seen companies that mod headers. I bet it's pricey... Best of luck! Subscribed!

[Zenith]

Oh man this is awesome!
Please keep us updated, pics and details, I'm very interested in this one.

I've been DD a 67 coupe for a couple years now and the steering is done and my little warmed over 289 is getting quite cool.
What are you planning on doing for wiring?
Less important, but how did the T56 line up with the stock shifter hole? How would trans tunnel clearance be if you didn't lower it that much?

Keep up the good work man!

Wiring is partially from the truck that the engine came from, just with all the emissions and automatic transmission stuff taken out and partially PSI Conversions stuff.

I know that T56's mated to Ford motors can fit in the transmission tunnel if you use Ron Morris mounts that lower the engine like 1/2 to 1". At a stock height some people have to trim the supporting rib (bad idea). T56's supposedly fit easily in 69-70 Mustangs and not at all in stock 65-66 tunnels.

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Here's a sideways photo of the shifter compared to the hole. It fits well, maybe a little trimming near the bottom is in order.

This is an F body T56. If I used a GTO, CTS-V, of Magnum T56 the shifter hole wouldn't line up.


Wow! I realllllly like this!

Any chance the oem exhaust manifolds work? If you are set on headers..I have seen companies that mod headers. I bet it's pricey... Best of luck! Subscribed!

There's another guy doing a '67 Cougar with Hooker manifolds. That's my backup plan. The stock ones were too big.

Do you have a link to the companies that mod headers? Thanks.

[reedld]

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

Here is one...the other one I believe was an exhaust shop that marked some headers that hung low, cut, re welded, and re coated them.

[Mach Par]

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

Here is one...the other one I believe was an exhaust shop that marked some headers that hung low, cut, re welded, and re coated them.

I like that idea. Price is kinda rough but though.

[MSTSFabbed]

Oh ok. Thats about right on.

What are you planning on doing for a clutch? Hyd TOB?
How about fuel system? New tank or a return to the old?

Thanks for letting me pick your brain. I'm pumped to see this come together!

[Zenith]

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

Here is one...the other one I believe was an exhaust shop that marked some headers that hung low, cut, re welded, and re coated them.

That's a clever way of getting custom exhaust. Shame it costs so much.

Right now I'm toying with Windsor headers. Hopefully I don't have to go full custom. If a header company would actually get around to making off-the-shelf pieces for these cars, I think there would be a good market for them.


Oh ok. Thats about right on.

What are you planning on doing for a clutch? Hyd TOB?
How about fuel system? New tank or a return to the old?

Thanks for letting me pick your brain. I'm pumped to see this come together!

The clutch is the standard Hydraulic TOB setup from a 4th F body T56.

The old fuel tank is pretty small and tired so I think I'm going to upgrade to a properly baffled 16 gallon EFI tank with a Walbro or Aeromotive pump.

[manOwar]

This is the modeling kit I got in 2" for mine... I may rent it if your interested when it comes time....

http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm

[andrewb70]

Nice build. Looking forward to your progress. So did you lower the engine to get the T56 to fit?

Andrew

[MustangX3]

Nice Swap, I'm building a 1965 mustang now and I definitley like the idea of the LS!!

[Tig]

Wow, Holy Shmoly, beautiful car and a DDer to boot.
Hell yeah man.
Great choice in your drivetrain to. Cant beat an LS power plant backed by a T-56.
Looking forward to your updates, oh great shots to. You're quite the photographer

[nytouring]

subscribing...

[Zenith]

This is the modeling kit I got in 2" for mine... I may rent it if your interested when it comes time....

http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm

Cool, I'll let you know. I doubt anything more than a 1-3/4 will fit between the shock towers and the engine. Maybe 1-7/8 if you're good.


Nice build. Looking forward to your progress. So did you lower the engine to get the T56 to fit?

Andrew

Yes, the T56 fits pretty snug, but there's about a hand's worth of clearance around the transmission to the tunnel. There's a stiffening brace in the transmission tunnel that can be chopped out, but I was going for low center of mass anyways so I put the engine as low as I felt was reasonable on a daily driver car.


Wow, Holy Shmoly, beautiful car and a DDer to boot.
Hell yeah man.
Great choice in your drivetrain to. Cant beat an LS power plant backed by a T-56.
Looking forward to your updates, oh great shots to. You're quite the photographer

Thanks!

[Zenith]

It is time for a long overdue update. I've been getting work done, just not updating my thread because I'm lazy.

I've been following a similar path as andrewb70 (https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/109464-1967-Cougar-build/page29) in his Cougar build. It's been good to share experiences with the steering rack, headers, and hydraulic clutch.

Since my last update I've finished the pedal box. The brake and clutch pedal shafts were updated to heavy duty bearings and their supports were reinforced. Here's an example, not my photo. Anyone who's driven an old Mustang knows that the pedals are loose and can be kicked around easily. It didn't feel like a quality product but now the pedals move along a smooth arc. It feels much more like a modern car.

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Here's the final product.

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I used the Modern Driveline Hydraulic Clutch conversion to convert the old Z-bar linkage to the T56's hydraulic setup. This would aid in exhaust routing. The kit was nice, but not perfect. A couple of bolts could have been selected to better suit their task and there was a bad fitting pair in the Wilwood master cylinder.

Here's the pedal setup before I actually hooked it up. Notice how close it is to the parking brake.

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Immediately there was an issue with clearance with the brake master cylinder. As you can see from this picture, the clutch master is located right next to the booster. My 8" diameter master would not fit.

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Luckily a friend had a 7" diameter one that he was planning on using for a Jeep. After a bit of grinding on the outer body of the clutch master, the parts fit together.

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Basically every control that the driver interacts with on this car exists in a 1.5ft cube on the firewall. Brake booster, master, distribution block, lines, clutch pedal linkage, master, more lines, steering column. Everything is in this tiny corner and it is a packaging miracle that it was able to fit.

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In this photo you can see the braided line from the clutch master. I took the liberty of reinforcing the firewall around the steering column lower mount. There's a lower mount for the steering column, then the firewall, then a layer of neoprene, then a layer of rubber (included with the rack kit), and finally another plate to hold it all together. We also have great clearance for headers, but more on that later.

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The final step in the pedal box was the throttle pedal. Although my L9H came with a pedal, it was too bulky to fit well and too plastic for my taste. I picked up a Corvette style DBW throttle pedal. Once again, I was low on real estate. The fuse box was moved over a couple inches and a mounting plate was fabricated and welded in on the firewall. The firewall was curved where I wanted to mount the throttle so this was a stomp-proof solution. You can see in this repeat image how the throttle pedal mounting plate fits snugly between the fuse box and the bottom of the brake/clutch pedal bracket.

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The throttle pedal was placed so that I could rest my foot against the carpet and keep good throttle control. There are plenty of pedal options if I want to move the throttle closer to the brake in order to heel-toe more easily. Luckily this setup is very well placed for my sized foot.


The next part of the driver controls section was the shifter. I got a nice deal on a MGW short shifter from LS1Tech, so it was time to install it. Given the engine's setback, the original shifter hole was slightly too far forward. A bit of the floor was chopped out and rearranged to extend the shifter hole.

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Removing undercoating to weld.

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Nice. I quickly threw a seat back in and quickly discovered that the shift was too far forward. The MGW shifter can be clocked in 90 degree increments, so in order to bring it closer to me I clocked it to 6 o'clock position. Word of advice: bring a torch. MGW found it necessary to Red Loctite that bolt you see up top. It will not budge unless you heat it up. If anyone has experience with MGW shifters coming loose without Red Loctite, I'd love to hear the justification for it. After this minor annoyance, clocking the shifter back simply wasn't enough. With my back to the seat, I would be uncomfortable making 1st, 3rd, and 5th shifts. I put the stick in a hydraulic press and bent it. The final result should be close enough for me to shift easily once a knob is on there. If this fails then I'll have to think of something else. For now I'm happy with it. It feels extremely notchy, but the throws are short and the centering springs are strong. I bet it'll get better once the synchros are worn in and the trans has fluid in it.

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I also installed the slave cylinder in the T56 but didn't take any pictures. It's been done a million times.

Finally the car has a starter, steering, and clutch. It was ready for headers. Three distinct options arose.

Andrew took the easy packaging approach. Hooker makes cast iron manifolds that fit very well between the cramped shock towers of the Mustang.

Another popular option is to take 302 or 352 Windsor headers are swap the flanges. This was recommended by much of the internet and Griggs Racing. Unfortunately I've seen a few of these endeavors turn into massive wastes of time, money, and metal. Bruce warned me that this would probably not work with the engine set where it was in my car, so I went with option C.

Custom headers!

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The specs were as follows:

Stainless Steel - California gas is extremely corrosive now with all that Ethanol. Many classic car guys are losing their mild steel headers to corrosion.
1-3/4 primary tubes - According to my research, the gains of 1-7/8 simply aren't significant enough to deal with the added packaging constraint between the Mustang's shock towers.
4 O2 bungs total - 2 for O2 bungs, 2 for AFR.
V-band clamps and flex pipes - The flex pipes are to allow the exhaust to grow and shrink with heat and not stress hangers or header bolts too much.

These were built by Sanderson Headers in San Francisco. They did very impressive work.

The rack placement and the general layout of the car made fitment a breeze once the tubes got past the shock towers. I highly recommend anyone with a first gen Mustang or Cougar use the TCP rack in order to get a good engine placement. The tubes fit right through the sections of the transmission crossmember.

I figured that I was always eventually going to go to some proper headers, so I might as well get it done right now. Here are some shots of the fitment.

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Right now the car is waiting on a driveshaft (ordered), fuel (ordered), intake plumbing, and wiring.

Also I bought a Maier strut tower brace on black friday because I felt a properly designed export brace would help with the added power. Also the chrome on my current export brace was starting to look a bit cheesy. This will look good caging in the LS.

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[andrewb70]

Great progress!

Do you have any pictures of your motor mounts? I have to remake mine and it's always good to have a reference.

I'm sure you noticed that using the TCP rack allows the engine to be placed lower which helps a lot with drive line angles and easier figment for the T56. Judging by the distance from the blower motor to the head our placement is similar front to back.

Is your balancer right over the sway bar and about an inch above?

Andrew

[joemac]

Nice build. As a Ford guy, they missed the boat on modern pushrod power. They were going in the right direction with the last pushrod explorer 5.0l but axed it for the modulars which are huge. Envision an aluminum 351 block with gt40x heads with a front mount throttle body intake. Easily 300hp+ stock.

[Zenith]

Great progress!

Do you have any pictures of your motor mounts? I have to remake mine and it's always good to have a reference.

I'm sure you noticed that using the TCP rack allows the engine to be placed lower which helps a lot with drive line angles and easier figment for the T56. Judging by the distance from the blower motor to the head our placement is similar front to back.

Is your balancer right over the sway bar and about an inch above?

Andrew

PM'd you.

My TCP rack was spaced even further down to drop the engine as low as possible. 1-1/4" spacers were used to achieve this. Any bumpsteer issues I'll fix on the side of the upright once the car gets rolling.

I think that the TCP rack's single tube/no crossmember design really helps engine fitment. For anyone putting an LS into a Mustang or Cougar, the TCP rack offers great clearance with the GTO pan.

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My Balancer is basically even with the lower bolt that bolts the grill support. Remember that my balancer is extra long (.75" I think) to clear the VVT accessories. I'm not concerned with the ARB hitting the balancer.

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Here's my current plan for the intake.

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Nice build. As a Ford guy, they missed the boat on modern pushrod power. They were going in the right direction with the last pushrod explorer 5.0l but axed it for the modulars which are huge. Envision an aluminum 351 block with gt40x heads with a front mount throttle body intake. Easily 300hp+ stock.

Agreed.

[andrewb70]

Francis,

Sorry for the dumb questions. After I posted I saw that you had already showed pictures of the engine mounts, etc...

Did you end up centering the trans in the tunnel?

I also understand why you lowered the rack an extra 1.25". The shape of the GTO pan is such that as you move the engine further back, the clearance between the pan and the reach decreases due to the slope of the pan, and then the inner tie rod mounts end up hitting the pan.

Looking at your pictures more carefully, I would say that my engine is probably a good 2" more forward than yours. One reason for this is the pan clearance mentioned above, the other reason is that with my alternator up high on the driver's side, it starts getting very close to the front of the shock tower.

As much as I like the Holley bracket, perhaps I will have to look for an alternative alternator location down low on the driver's side. There is plenty of room at the bottom and it would clean up the look from the top.

Just thinking out loud here...LOL

Andrew

[xsboost90]

wow dont know how i overlooked this thread! So many similarities with my build. My front end was converted to AJE stuff with a fox body rack. Engine is prob. alittle higher up but not much- built a triangulated brace much like the Mier one. Very cool build and glad to see your not getting much crap about the motor.

[MSTSFabbed]

I am loving this! I'm hoping to head down a very similar path in the future. Keep it coming!

[Zenith]

Francis,

Sorry for the dumb questions. After I posted I saw that you had already showed pictures of the engine mounts, etc...

Did you end up centering the trans in the tunnel?

Yes, the tail of the trans is centered between the frame rails.


I also understand why you lowered the rack an extra 1.25". The shape of the GTO pan is such that as you move the engine further back, the clearance between the pan and the reach decreases due to the slope of the pan, and then the inner tie rod mounts end up hitting the pan.

Looking at your pictures more carefully, I would say that my engine is probably a good 2" more forward than yours. One reason for this is the pan clearance mentioned above, the other reason is that with my alternator up high on the driver's side, it starts getting very close to the front of the shock tower.

As much as I like the Holley bracket, perhaps I will have to look for an alternative alternator location down low on the driver's side. There is plenty of room at the bottom and it would clean up the look from the top.

Just thinking out loud here...LOL

Andrew

Interesting. I plan on running a 4th Gen F-body accessory drive. That puts the alternator down low. To make it work with the VVT I referenced this (http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1134948-camaro-accessories-while-keeping-vvt-l92.html) thread. The only change is that I'm using the truck water pump so I don't need the pricey waterpump spacers.

The Holley bracket must really put the alternator out there. I like the F-body setup because it puts the heavy alternator nice and low and leaves the passenger side open so I can route the intake over there.

For the oil pan you could consider looking into some aftermarket options. Heck, if you pushed the engine far enough back you could use a rear sump. More thinking out loud.


wow dont know how i overlooked this thread! So many similarities with my build. My front end was converted to AJE stuff with a fox body rack. Engine is prob. alittle higher up but not much- built a triangulated brace much like the Mier one. Very cool build and glad to see your not getting much crap about the motor.

If you're using an aftermarket K member did you chop out your shock towers? It would make header work much easier.

[xsboost90]

i cut out the lower portion of the towers- still have struts but no upper control arms. Makes for more room but keeps the look and strength.

[Zenith]

Quick update.

I added my strut tower brace and made the crossover hose for the fuel rails. They can be seen in the engine bay here.

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I used a Tanks Inc. fuel tank, sender, and filler neck and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. This went in fairly easily.

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You can see the fuel regulator/filter at the top. I plan on running a bulkhead fitting where the old Ford fuel sender wire goes through the trunk on the right hand side. After that, I'll route the fuel line up to the engine bay and to the fuel rails.

The next challenge is the intake. I'm playing with the idea of having a velocity stack cut into the grille or even replacing a headlight. But first I need to find a way to fit an airbox/filter and a MAF tube into the engine bay.

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[Motown 454]

Nice job its looking good.

[andrewb70]

Nice job. Looks like we had similar ideas for the fuel line and regulator routing.

Andrew

[wfo guy]

I like your inlet in the grille idea. If you install one per side it would resemble the factory drag cars.

[Zenith]

@Andrew: Yes, the Tanks Inc is extremely popular with the Mustang guys. Just comparing the costs of the tank really shows why. Most of the other drop in tanks are upwards of $1,000 for the tank alone vs $215. I'm sure a big fat race-style box that hung low past the exhaust would have worked and looked nice, but I couldn't justify the price difference

@WFO: Unfortunately there's a power steering pump on the driver's side of the engine, I also put my radiator puke tank there so I'm probably only going to run the one side. I kinda like the asymmetric look.

[andrewb70]

@Andrew: Yes, the Tanks Inc is extremely popular with the Mustang guys. Just comparing the costs of the tank really shows why. Most of the other drop in tanks are upwards of $1,000 for the tank alone vs $215. I'm sure a big fat race-style box that hung low past the exhaust would have worked and looked nice, but I couldn't justify the price difference

...

FYI...I am seeing about 55psi at the rail with the Corvette regulator/filter as I have it installed in the Cougar. My guess is that I have too many (3) 90 degree bends. In my GTO, the fuel pressure at the rail is right at 58.5psi, which is what it is supposed to be.

Andrew

[Zenith]

FYI...I am seeing about 55psi at the rail with the Corvette regulator/filter as I have it installed in the Cougar. My guess is that I have too many (3) 90 degree bends. In my GTO, the fuel pressure at the rail is right at 58.5psi, which is what it is supposed to be.

Andrew

Hmmm. I've got two 45deg's at the supply and return to the pump, straights on all three sides of the regulator/filter, a 90deg bulkhead, then a 45 and a straight from the lines to the rails. The rails obviously have a pair of 90's.

I'll watch your thread for updates.

[andrewb70]

Hmmm. I've got two 45deg's at the supply and return to the pump, straights on all three sides of the regulator/filter, a 90deg bulkhead, then a 45 and a straight from the lines to the rails. The rails obviously have a pair of 90's.

I'll watch your thread for updates.

For me, it's not so much an issue, because I am using the Holley Dominator. I can tune for that pressure and the Dominator makes adjustments based on fuel pressure. I don't see a huge issue with an OEM ECU either. You just have to tune for it as well...But I would be curious to see what your pressure is at the rail.

My rails have a couple of 90s as well, in addition to the 3 that I mentioned. I tried to keep the tight bends to a minimum, but it's not always possible when routing fuel line. The GTO also has a 1/2" line along the frame rail while the Cougar has a 3/8" line.

Here is what my trunk fuel lines look like:

https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/383.jpg

Andrew

[xsboost90]

hmm didnt know you could buy a tanks fuel tank for the stang- i bought the tanks inc. universal cut in and a new stainless tank....

[andrewb70]

I just got done with doing my pedal mount and we ended up with vastly different pedal positions. I am not saying yours is wrong or anything like that, as I am sure we have different preferences.

Mine...

https://www.pro-touring.com/~andrewb/cougar/464.jpg

Yours...

https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111886&d=1429736005

Andrew

[Zenith]

I just got done with doing my pedal mount and we ended up with vastly different pedal positions. I am not saying yours is wrong or anything like that, as I am sure we have different preferences.

Mine...

Yours

Andrew

My pedal is from a Corvette. I can see that there's a longer arm and a greater rightward offset. I just put the pedal in a place where I could rest my ankle on the transmission tunnel and modulate throttle with my ankle. Yours looks better for heel-toe.

[Zenith]

Update time!

Fuel routing is in progress. I went with a Tanks Inc. baffled 16gal EFI tank. It's basically the stock Mustang tank with provisions for EFI. I'm using the tried and tested Walbro 255(250?) pump and a Corvette filter/regulator combo. This pump is pretty much the standard for aftermarket fueling and is plenty good for my power output. The old fuel sender wire grommet was removed and a 90 degree bulkhead fitting was used to start the routing to the engine. I have 3/8's steel tubing that I'll use to get the fuel to the engine bay. The line will run next to the subframe connectors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/Ule0R8C-1.jpg

The hoses are AN-6. You can also see my battery box in the trunk, right over the rear axle where 50 lbs of battery should be. It will be mounted slightly towards the center, just in case mini tubbing becomes a project once I try to put down 450hp ;)

You can also see the two holes I drilled for the primary battery cables. I went and got some 2/0 welding cable from local shop and crimped some ends on. I could've done 1/0 but overkill is great and it only cost 2 lbs.

Up at the front of the car I've placed my fan. It's a generic Permacool pusher. I'm running a pusher to keep room for my intake setup. As parts are being added to the car, the Mustang is feeling smaller and smaller. Pusher fans are ~10% less efficient than pullers, but they look cool and are needed when space is at a premium in the engine bay.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/6LVYMUi-1.jpg

More in the front of the engine, the fuel rails are connected and the front accessories are attached. I went with a 4th F-body setup because I wanted to keep the weight of the alternator low down. Apparently the GM factory power steering pumps have a hard time keeping up during autocross, so I opted for an upgraded one from Turn One. Clearance between the water pump and throttle body as well as the alternator and frame is tight, but acceptable. I've kept the alternator from the truck. It has a significantly higher output than a standard car alternator.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/JWTvmI5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/a7ijnUK-1.jpg

These power steering lines are a treat. It's a braided outer (kevlar?), braided aluminum middle section, and a teflon inner.

You can also see that the LS wiring harness is hooked up! Now all that's left is integrating the Ford chassis harness and fuel pump (Noooo...)

The PSI harness I used had great instructions and most wire lengths were good. My MAF wires will require a bit of extension and I'll need to swap the O2 sensor connectors for females. Other than that, it's been ripping out old ford ignition related wires and setting up new grounds for the power train which is probably going to consume 10x the electrical power.

For the ECU, fan relay and fuse box, I found a place between the glove box and heater box. The glove box still works! Right now I just have the python of wiring harness curled and zip tied above the heater box. I don't see any problems with this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/Tx59STy-1.jpg


In addition, my new 3.5" aluminum driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop came in. Here it is next to the old Ford unit. The old piece weighs 16lbs, the new piece is 8lbs according to a bathroom scale.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/nj2tYpJ-1.jpg

And a couple pictures of it installed...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/rDOjQtQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/jvkMG4B-1.jpg

The next steps are to finish integrating the Ford harness to the PSI harness, then route fuel hardline from the trunk to the fuel rail. The ECU has had vehicle anti-theft removed and a starter tune loaded. I'm closing in on starting this heap for the first time since August 2014

PS: Was looking at building my own engine covers. Found these in Japan. If I can get them anodized black I would really like them... Alternatively I can ask some friends if they have aluminum working tools to make my own custom version.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[andrewb70]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/Tx59STy-1.jpg

Funny, I was just out there this afternoon running wires and figuring out where everything goes. So you drilled through the top sheet metal to mount the ECU and other bits? I am not super familiar with these cars, but won't those holes go into the cowl area where water can get in?

Andrew

[Zenith]

Funny, I was just out there this afternoon running wires and figuring out where everything goes. So you drilled through the top sheet metal to mount the ECU and other bits? I am not super familiar with these cars, but won't those holes go into the cowl area where water can get in?

Andrew

Yes, the top bolts go into the cowl area. Right now I've got a rubber washers that the screws threaded through at the bolt holes. This should be mostly water tight. I plan to add some basic sealant to the bolts once the electronics are at "final" assembly.

It needs a couple of bandaid fixes but I couldn't find any other place to put the ECU and I wanted to keep my glovebox.

[arcane73]

Yes, the top bolts go into the cowl area. Right now I've got a rubber washers that the screws threaded through at the bolt holes. This should be mostly water tight. I plan to add some basic sealant to the bolts once the electronics are at "final" assembly.

It needs a couple of bandaid fixes but I couldn't find any other place to put the ECU and I wanted to keep my glovebox.

You could try a flat plate to mount everything on and weld some tabs or brackets to that area to hold it. That would allow you to still have your electrical bits in the same place and remove the need for holes. I only suggest something like that because I've fought my share of battles with leaking cowls in the first gen mustangs. Of course, the welding may not work for you since you've got nice paint.

[Godbolt]

Update time!




PS: Was looking at building my own engine covers. Found these in Japan. If I can get them anodized black I would really like them... Alternatively I can ask some friends if they have aluminum working tools to make my own custom version.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Cool project.
Do you know who sells the engine covers shown?

[Zenith]

You could try a flat plate to mount everything on and weld some tabs or brackets to that area to hold it. That would allow you to still have your electrical bits in the same place and remove the need for holes. I only suggest something like that because I've fought my share of battles with leaking cowls in the first gen mustangs. Of course, the welding may not work for you since you've got nice paint.

My cowls are in okay shape right now, luckily. I'll look into more permanent ways of sealing the cowl... It's just not a high priority during a California summer. :razz:


Cool project.
Do you know who sells the engine covers shown?

Supermachine (http://www.supermachine.jp) in Japan. They'll sell you a custom fit black anodized set for $350. I doubt I'll buy it.

[Godbolt]

Thanks for the link- very cool. I can only imagine the reaction of the Porsche purists to dropping an LS motor into a beloved 911!

[MSTSFabbed]

Nice! Keep it coming!

[Zenith]

Pictureless update:

Cranked the car for the first time since August last night. Great moment. I ended up using a set of alligator clips and a paperclip because there's a short-to-ground somewhere between the Ford key and firewall. Probably happened during all the welding and cutting that went on.

Also plugged in the harness and got feedback from the throttle body. No spark or injector action, but this is likely because the MAF and O2 sensors were not connected.

[andrewb70]

Pictureless update:

Cranked the car for the first time since August last night. Great moment. I ended up using a set of alligator clips and a paperclip because there's a short-to-ground somewhere between the Ford key and firewall. Probably happened during all the welding and cutting that went on.

Also plugged in the harness and got feedback from the throttle body. No spark or injector action, but this is likely because the MAF and O2 sensors were not connected.

You've got some other issue. It'll run without a MAF or the O2s. Make sure you got the coil harnesses grounded to the back of the heads.

Andrew

[Zenith]

You've got some other issue. It'll run without a MAF or the O2s. Make sure you got the coil harnesses grounded to the back of the heads.

Andrew

Thanks for the tip. Will check tonight.

[Zenith]

Picture-less update #2.

Car now has spark and injectors! The problem was that the ECU was connected to a wire that only got 12V during power on, not during crank. I took one of the unused Ford wires that showed 12V during both and ran that to the ECU. There are a few dead wires in the harness now, but that's okay. The car also cranks with the key now.

The headers are on their way back from coating, so all parts to get the car running will be present by the end of next week. I'm going to be putting lots of hours in to get this ready to start and head to a tuner the moment those headers are in.

Expect a video of the car running without headers some time soon.

[andrewb70]

Picture-less update #2.

Car now has spark and injectors! The problem was that the ECU was connected to a wire that only got 12V during power on, not during crank. I took one of the unused Ford wires that showed 12V during both and ran that to the ECU. There are a few dead wires in the harness now, but that's okay. The car also cranks with the key now.

The headers are on their way back from coating, so all parts to get the car running will be present by the end of next week. I'm going to be putting lots of hours in to get this ready to start and head to a tuner the moment those headers are in.

Expect a video of the car running without headers some time soon.

If you used the big pink wire off the ignition switch, that wire is for the coil and is hot in RUN and START. However, that is a resistance wire that will not provide a full 12v when running. This was done to save the coil. If you are using this wire to trip the main power relay in your harness, then you are good to go.

Andrew

[Motown 454]

Thanks for the tip. It seems that is a stumbling block for quite a few builds.

[MSTSFabbed]

Updates?

[fbconvert]

Just finished reading through this project. I'm currently fitting a C4 suspension in my 65 coupe that I converted to a fastback. I found a good deal on a wrecked low mileage F-body with the T56. I originally planned to swap a coyote but I am seriously considering the advantages of the LS swap. Thanks for posting your progress and please keep the updates coming!

[Zenith]

It's been a while!

Here's what's happened since I posted last.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/7wdV6XK-1.jpg

Engine bay done! I've done some wire cleanup and added heater hoses, but this is how it sits.

Here's the dyno graph for the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/fVJBPdw-1.png

406whp @ 6100 RPM
382 lbft @ 4700 RPM

Note about this dyno... This is embarrassing but I used the wrong cam sprocket on my car. Since my car has VVT, the cam sprocket is also the phaser. GM in all its wisdom decided to make two types of cam phasers. I installed the wrong one for my car and as a result my cam is 13 degrees more retarded than it should be (it's not the only retarded thing :) ).

I'll be installing a proper cam gear soon and retuning the car, we'll see what it picks up. The car is due for another dyno session soon anyways, you'll see why at the end of this post ;)

Since I've posted last the Mustang has seen a lot of driving and a lot of weather..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/OBz2IOY-1.jpg

It's also seen an autocross where it made mincemeat of an S2000 owner who told me a Mazda 3 would be able to beat my car around corners.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/CMYJVQq-1.jpg

Speaking of mincemeat...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/ximspOK-1.jpg?1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/0OKwQFp-1.jpg?1

Luckily this was replaced under warranty.

The car also got some BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 rubber. Look at that front fender fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/elg8RpM-1.jpg?1

The car was also backed into in a parking lot. It'll be getting a new hood, bumper and front clip soon. I'm thinking a carbon hood and bumper and a fiberglass nose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/WRvMrDm-1.jpg?1


I visited Maier Racing's shop. I'll be adding a composite body panels to the car soon along with a new paint job.

Oh, also I make bad decisions when things are on sale...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/8jKVDRx-1.jpg

Some performance notes about the car:

The top speed is somewhere been 170 and 180. At about 165 I start hearing the siren call of death but the car is still pulling and entering the powerband in 5th. Top speed definitely limited by my self preservation instinct, not the car.

The car cruises around at 1900RPMs at 75mph. Great for long trips even if the wind noise is a bit annoying.

Since I put fiberglass leaf springs (more about these later) on the rear of the car, I was able to eliminate most wheel hop issues. The car will lay black lines on the pavement in first and sometimes in second while the tires scream for mercy. It's a ton of fun feeling the car get floaty while the engine screams. Seriously this motor is brutal when it revs up.

Drifting the car around corners is extremely rewarding, it's a perfect example of "steering with the throttle"

The weight loss and repositioning in the front of the car means that my 1-1/8" Anti Roll bar is simply too stiff. The car has the "on rails" feel that is characteristic of an overstiff front suspension. I'll be going back to a stock ARB soon so that the suspension can travel.

I'll try to upload videos soon, but Youtube does not seem to want to include audio in my videos. The crackle on the overrun this car has is awesome.

The next step step for this project is a new paintjob. I love Shelby Blue, but walking around Goodguys events made me realize that there are plenty of muscle cars with nice wheels and a clean paintjob. I want something mean, not clean.

Here are some photoshops I've been working on for my paint scheme. Let me know which one you think works best or what ideas you have! The black stripes are there to show off the bare carbon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/kTvkmv1-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/Hwo4nZ0-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/nJ7TXC7-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/qXvNTyZ-1.jpg

[Z06killinSBF]

Awesome man, the car is killer

[wfo guy]

I prefer the gray with the white stripes but this is my thought: whenever you walk out to the parking lot and grin when you look at what you're driving should be a factor. I'm a shiney paint guy because it looks finished and it looks like someone intends to wash it and keep it maintained. I realize that it's to each his own, so let it be just that. When I walk out and see my 32, I always have that grin. :)

[Mach1_Ron]

I prefer the gray with the white stripes but this is my thought: whenever you walk out to the parking lot and grin when you look at what you're driving should be a factor. I'm a shiney paint guy because it looks finished and it looks like someone intends to wash it and keep it maintained. I realize that it's to each his own, so let it be just that. When I walk out and see my 32, I always have that grin. :)

X2 on the White Stripes......

[xsboost90]

looks killer! Like the white stripes too! Im running a VVT ly6 in my 64 stang with a mast 585 lift cam and phasers- what cam did you go with to get those numbers? Pretty much right where i would like to be with an LS3 intake and tune/headers etc... I feel your pain on the clutch master fitment- going through that right now. Also, what rear end gear do you have in there- i bought a 3.80 just hoping its what i want in there....

[MSTSFabbed]

Man, great update!! The driving/performance notes are epic, congrats! I'm jonesing this swap even more now...

I personally like either the all gray battleship kind of look of the first one, or the simple offset stripe. I think the white stripes would look better if you did the exposed black pin stripe in the center too. Great photochops for all of them though! That Shelby nose is going to look killer!

Let us know if/how performance changes with the correct cam sprocket!

[MSTSFabbed]

I know this has been dormant for a while, but any progress on this one?

[andrewb70]

I know this has been dormant for a while, but any progress on this one?

The OP hasn't logged in since 2019...

Andrew