View Full Version : D.I.Y. Bodywork on the "Poor Boy" 1967 Firebird
Buryingthesun
10-28-2014, 07:27 AM
So opposed to letting the small things get buried in my main build thread I figured I would start a new thread specifically for all the metal work on my car.
Unfortunately my solid looking car has become a horror story of "how did this not fall off" and "why the hell did this clown think this was a good way to repair this?" This will be the ultimate guide to what I found wrong and how I fixed it. If this gets lost in the sea of time I will also link it on the first page of my build thread.
*Disclaimer* I am not a professional, I actually have never done any body work before in my life, this is just a resource and documentation on how I'm doing it.
Things to be repaired or fabricated on my 1967 Firebird
* Floor (the entire thing because someone mickey moused it with patches)
* Trunk (mega holes in it covered with expanding foam and paint) ((quality))
* Firewall repairs
* Inner and Outer Wheel Wells (rotted / not enough wides)
* Both Quarters (again some shot alcoholic put quarters on the car) ((didn't know until I rolled my fenders, thats a good half assed job))
* Outer Rocker repairs
* 13 things I haven't found yet
* Custom Rollcage
* Custom Rear Frame for IRS
So here we go, Chassis is stripped and ready to rock and roll. . . I just don't know where to start.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
*Disclaimer #2* Yeah some of my pictures suck, well deal with it, I'm using a phone because that's what I've got. . . Maybe i can have my friends pop over for fancy pics through out this process. I also have a GoPro I plan on using for some instructional/destructional videos
Buryingthesun
10-28-2014, 07:29 AM
Bracing the body has begun, just not sure where to put them so they are not in my way for replacement of other parts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Buryingthesun
10-28-2014, 07:32 AM
It was recommended by literally anyone I know that builds race cars and does body work to buy one of these bad bitches. . . So I did, and tonight I get to see how well it works! Its called a Crud Thug from SnapOn and is wicked expensive! p/n PT280THUGA
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
captainofiron
10-28-2014, 12:10 PM
It was recommended by literally anyone I know that builds race cars and does body work to buy one of these bad bitches. . . So I did, and tonight I get to see how well it works! Its called a Crud Thug from SnapOn and is wicked expensive! p/n PT280THUGA
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Is that a back scratcher? lol
Fellow Firebird owner, subscribed!
Yeah ! Show us how she's working... sounds... Middle Ages with eraser !!
Gil
Buryingthesun
10-28-2014, 03:39 PM
This thing works great, I only worked with it for about 1hr today but cleaned the entire passenger rocker and cleaned up the seams for the passenger 1/4 panel.
I've got a lot of work in for me, turns out my rockers are junk hidden by bondo, my roof line is still leaded and I need to figure out how to remove that nonsense. Looks like my replacement quarters are not full quarters.
The further you dig into your car the more rust you will find! I started with one firebird that needed some panels replaced then I "thought" I would save some time and buy a roller that had panels replaced already. But it turned out I had to do A LOT of work to fix the roller.
I still don't have a finished firebird but I have went back to working on the original car again so I can get it together enough to sell. I have too many stock parts laying around that I don't want to use (enough to put a whole mostly stock car together). I have installed a 1-piece trunk, inner and outer wheel houses, and a just did a 1-piece floor this past weekend.
I still have to put the firewall and upper cowl panel in (and quarter skins, tail panel, and outer rockers...) But I do have all the parts at least to put this car together and sell so I can fun my "real car". So basically have a good plan and stick to it (unlike me) and everything should go good. I would be more than happy to share all the mistakes I have made so maybe it will save you some trouble, lol. Good luck with it!
Buryingthesun
10-28-2014, 05:33 PM
The further you dig into your car the more rust you will find! I started with one firebird that needed some panels replaced then I "thought" I would save some time and buy a roller that had panels replaced already. But it turned out I had to do A LOT of work to fix the roller.
I still don't have a finished firebird but I have went back to working on the original car again so I can get it together enough to sell. I have too many stock parts laying around that I don't want to use (enough to put a whole mostly stock car together). I have installed a 1-piece trunk, inner and outer wheel houses, and a just did a 1-piece floor this past weekend.
I still have to put the firewall and upper cowl panel in (and quarter skins, tail panel, and outer rockers...) But I do have all the parts at least to put this car together and sell so I can fun my "real car". So basically have a good plan and stick to it (unlike me) and everything should go good. I would be more than happy to share all the mistakes I have made so maybe it will save you some trouble, lol. Good luck with it!
I'm thinking I need to replace my trunk floor before I install the new passenger quarter? Mainly for ease of installation. Either way both inner and outer wheels wells ned to be replaced. I also want to do the rear frame rails while I'm into the trunk I just don't know his to locate them if I take it all out at once
I replaced the trunk floor a while back but I'm pretty sure I had to take the quarter, inner, and outer wheel wells out to get the trunk floor in. I was replacing these anyway so wasn't a big deal. Of course if you aren't doing a full trunk floor then you won't have to do all that. I remember it still being kind of a pain to get in and out while I was fitting everything up.
I think frame rails are a good idea, it is a real pain to try and save the old ones after drilling out spot welds and grinding. Here's the order I would replace parts.
Cut out one frame rail then weld new one back in at the front and rear attachment points where they aren't welded to the trunk floor.
Cut out the other frame rail and repeat previous step.
Cut off quarter panel
Cut out the portion of the inner and outer wheel houses that attach to the trunk floor and the parts that will get in the way of putting the new trunk floor in.
Cut out the remainder of the trunk floor and prep for new trunk floor.
Install new trunk floor. Weld to new frame rails,tail panel reinforcement, and other points that are not being replaced.
At this point it will be safe to cut out the rest of the inner/outer wheel houses and install the new inner and outer.
Install new quarter panel.
I think this would be a good way to approach it and keep everything lined up.
Since you're doing IRS are you going to go with stock rails and modify them? I figured when I go to do the IRS in my car I would end up fabing a new trunk floor and rails or maybe buy a set of the straight frame rails.
Buryingthesun
10-29-2014, 03:28 AM
I replaced the trunk floor a while back but I'm pretty sure I had to take the quarter, inner, and outer wheel wells out to get the trunk floor in. I was replacing these anyway so wasn't a big deal. Of course if you aren't doing a full trunk floor then you won't have to do all that. I remember it still being kind of a pain to get in and out while I was fitting everything up.
I think frame rails are a good idea, it is a real pain to try and save the old ones after drilling out spot welds and grinding. Here's the order I would replace parts.
Cut out one frame rail then weld new one back in at the front and rear attachment points where they aren't welded to the trunk floor.
Cut out the other frame rail and repeat previous step.
Cut off quarter panel
Cut out the portion of the inner and outer wheel houses that attach to the trunk floor and the parts that will get in the way of putting the new trunk floor in.
Cut out the remainder of the trunk floor and prep for new trunk floor.
Install new trunk floor. Weld to new frame rails,tail panel reinforcement, and other points that are not being replaced.
At this point it will be safe to cut out the rest of the inner/outer wheel houses and install the new inner and outer.
Install new quarter panel.
I think this would be a good way to approach it and keep everything lined up.
Since you're doing IRS are you going to go with stock rails and modify them? I figured when I go to do the IRS in my car I would end up fabing a new trunk floor and rails or maybe buy a set of the straight frame rails.
I am debating just doing custom rails on the rear, Make a cross bar from rocker to rocker with a drive shaft hump. then lay my rails where they would pick up on the IRS. box it all together and tie it into the roll cage.
Buryingthesun
10-29-2014, 05:05 AM
I have found AMD (Auto Metal Direct) Makes almost all the steel I need and is the best quality on the market
Josue
10-29-2014, 06:05 AM
LOVE my Crud Thug, thing is worth it's weight in gold!!
Subbin for updates.
Buryingthesun
10-29-2014, 12:42 PM
LOVE my Crud Thug, thing is worth it's weight in gold!!
Subbin for updates.
It blew my mind how well that thing works especially on body filler!!
I have found AMD (Auto Metal Direct) Makes almost all the steel I need and is the best quality on the market
Something to keep in mind about AMD is they sell parts they make and parts other companies make. If the part number starts with an "X" then it's NOT their part. I had to get fenders and AMD didn't make Firebird fenders but they do make Camaro fenders so I bought the Camaro fenders and am modifying them.
Buryingthesun
10-31-2014, 12:32 AM
Something to keep in mind about AMD is they sell parts they make and parts other companies make. If the part number starts with an "X" then it's NOT their part. I had to get fenders and AMD didn't make Firebird fenders but they do make Camaro fenders so I bought the Camaro fenders and am modifying them.
I've noticed on their website it specifies what parts are made by them and what's not. For me the most important part right now is the quarters. They are made by AMD for a 1967 firebird and have the correct louvers and no bird stamped like the 68'
I've noticed on their website it specifies what parts are made by them and what's not. For me the most important part right now is the quarters. They are made by AMD for a 1967 firebird and have the correct louvers and no bird stamped like the 68'
I just checked and the only 67 Firebird quarter panels on their website are "X-parts" which means they don't make it. I went to their store in Georgia when I bought my fenders and asked one of the guys about the X-parts and he confirmed they don't make them. They are real good guys to deal with and are honest, you can call and ask them if they make the parts you are wanting to order and they will tell you.
Buryingthesun
11-01-2014, 11:25 AM
I just checked and the only 67 Firebird quarter panels on their website are "X-parts" which means they don't make it. I went to their store in Georgia when I bought my fenders and asked one of the guys about the X-parts and he confirmed they don't make them. They are real good guys to deal with and are honest, you can call and ask them if they make the parts you are wanting to order and they will tell you.
You are correct, I just checked also
You are correct, I just checked also
It's not that big a deal though. I replaced the quarters on my other firebird and it wasn't too bad. Main thing was the trunk opening was too big so I had to cut the top of the quarter and add some metal so I could push the gutter section in. Just plan to have to modify every replacement panel you buy, not that you will but at least that way you will have somewhat prepared yourself, lol.
Buryingthesun
11-12-2014, 05:04 AM
It got a little serious lastnight
I'm kinda concerned I'm doing this wrong. Now I'm reading horror story's of replacement quarters fitting like **** and not being the correct dimensions.
Buryingthesun
11-12-2014, 05:31 AM
From what I can see in this link on a Super Chevy 69' camaro build they have no extra bracing inside the car. But my car is also on 4 jack stands and not a body jig.... Nerves are getting touchy right now, any helpful tips would be appreciated! I've never done this before!
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/paint-body/1307-1969-chevy-camaro-restoration/?cx_source=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s
Build-It-Break-It
11-12-2014, 06:12 PM
Make sure you remove any glass before welding. The weld splatter will pit the glass and it can't be repaired.
Buryingthesun
11-12-2014, 06:40 PM
Make sure you remove any glass before welding. The weld splatter will pit the glass and it can't be repaired.
I plan on it, that was the last piece of glass on the car
Build-It-Break-It
11-12-2014, 07:10 PM
Delete
It got a little serious lastnight
I'm kinda concerned I'm doing this wrong. Now I'm reading horror story's of replacement quarters fitting like **** and not being the correct dimensions.
The full quarters I did on one of my firebirds didn't fit that great but they were workable. The driver side fit worse than the passenger side. Just don't forget to reinstall the factory braces (diagonal and door jamb) before you put the new quarter on. There is also a corner stiffening brace/plate on the underside of each trunk opening radius.
IMO you aren't in danger of your car twisting out of shape with what you have cut out now. If you have to cut out the inner wheel housing then you probably should weld in a temporary brace but other than that I wouldn't worry about it.
The one piece of advice I will give you that I failed to do was take very good reference pictures and measurements before you get too far into replacing panels. I took some pics and measurements but not as many as I really needed.
Buryingthesun
11-13-2014, 03:09 AM
The full quarters I did on one of my firebirds didn't fit that great but they were workable. The driver side fit worse than the passenger side. Just don't forget to reinstall the factory braces (diagonal and door jamb) before you put the new quarter on. There is also a corner stiffening brace/plate on the underside of each trunk opening radius.
IMO you aren't in danger of your car twisting out of shape with what you have cut out now. If you have to cut out the inner wheel housing then you probably should weld in a temporary brace but other than that I wouldn't worry about it.
The one piece of advice I will give you that I failed to do was take very good reference pictures and measurements before you get too far into replacing panels. I took some pics and measurements but not as many as I really needed.
looks like the door jamb brace is galvanized, I didn't realize what it was when I was drilling out all the spot welds. I don't see it being much of an issue rewelding it back where it belongs. It's actually helpful having that out to do the rocker repairs I need to do.
Do you have any pictures of where the bracing should go? I need to eventually do both inner and outer wheel wells, trunk floor, both quarters, frame rails and the rear tail light panel.
-joe
Buryingthesun
11-13-2014, 03:29 AM
I'm not a big fan of the galvanized coatings on parts. Crazy Idea but I was wondering if it is worth it to just sandblast the parts before I go to weld them back on.
Also I found these quarters that are supposedly GM licensed replacements.
http://www.firebirdcentral.com/product_p/she-2504.htm
Josue
11-13-2014, 09:56 AM
From what I can see in this link on a Super Chevy 69' camaro build they have no extra bracing inside the car. But my car is also on 4 jack stands and not a body jig.... Nerves are getting touchy right now, any helpful tips would be appreciated! I've never done this before!
This forum can be very misleading...all these big, expensive restoration/pro-touring shops with their high dollar builds, make it look effortless to build these magazine worthy cars. Couple of body pictures on a rotisserie and a frame jig in a build thread you're scrolling down through and VOILA, car looks like it just rolled off the factory line. Clean metal, tight gaps, factory spot welds...must be nice to have all that equipment and man power to deliver those kinds of results!
Make sure you have patience, loads and loads of patience! I was trying to restore a 69 Firebird Convertible for my dad, but after making little progress on getting the quarters, wheelhouses, trunklid, etc. to fit, I'm throwing in the towel. And, this is after spending hours and hours at it! I was also a heavy collision technician for almost 10 years, so it wasn't my first rodeo with bodywork. These aftermarket parts are a total bitch, and I don't have the time to mess with it anymore. He's either going to pay someone to get the bodywork done and painted, that way I can start to assemble the car and at least make some progress. Or, he's just going to sell it as is, and buy a driver quality convertible.
HomeBuilt
11-13-2014, 11:12 AM
From what I can see in this link on a Super Chevy 69' camaro build they have no extra bracing inside the car. But my car is also on 4 jack stands and not a body jig.... Nerves are getting touchy right now, any helpful tips would be appreciated! I've never done this before!
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/paint-body/1307-1969-chevy-camaro-restoration/?cx_source=cxrecs&cx_navSource=related-bottom#cxrecs_s
IMO if you're concerned with the body twisting when you cut out the quarters, or anything other panel, weld in as many reinforcing bars as you see fit, then add 1 more to be sure. It doesn't take a lot of time or money to put those in, take them out, and put them in again somewhere else when you go to do floors. If you decide to skip the extra reinforcement, you are going to be kicking yourself at the end when you can't get the panel gaps to fit how you want them. I agree it's pretty misleading to see the pro built cars, and sometimes more discouraging than inspiring, but hey, it takes more guts to see "yeah, maybe it's not perfect but I did it myself and I learned a lot in the process." instead of, "yeah I wrote a huge check and waited a year for that car to come home."
Buryingthesun
11-13-2014, 11:49 AM
IMO if you're concerned with the body twisting when you cut out the quarters, or anything other panel, weld in as many reinforcing bars as you see fit, then add 1 more to be sure. It doesn't take a lot of time or money to put those in, take them out, and put them in again somewhere else when you go to do floors. If you decide to skip the extra reinforcement, you are going to be kicking yourself at the end when you can't get the panel gaps to fit how you want them. I agree it's pretty misleading to see the pro built cars, and sometimes more discouraging than inspiring, but hey, it takes more guts to see "yeah, maybe it's not perfect but I did it myself and I learned a lot in the process." instead of, "yeah I wrote a huge check and waited a year for that car to come home."
That is exactly how I feel, I want to do it myself. It is a track car some what so it may see damage after its all done. The plan is to do it right, once and by myself. I do not believe in paying someone to build my creation. This is not a high dollar project by any means but im sure by time im done it will be worth more in time then parts value. Time = Education and we all know you can not put a price tag on this kind of education.
looks like the door jamb brace is galvanized, I didn't realize what it was when I was drilling out all the spot welds. I don't see it being much of an issue rewelding it back where it belongs. It's actually helpful having that out to do the rocker repairs I need to do.
Do you have any pictures of where the bracing should go? I need to eventually do both inner and outer wheel wells, trunk floor, both quarters, frame rails and the rear tail light panel.
-joe
I can get some pics of where the braces go when I get back home. I am up in Detroit for training and will be flying back tomorrow. I have the quarter skin cut off my other firebird and you can see the brace.
Buryingthesun
11-14-2014, 04:40 AM
I can get some pics of where the braces go when I get back home. I am up in Detroit for training and will be flying back tomorrow. I have the quarter skin cut off my other firebird and you can see the brace.
That would be quite helpful!
I just can't see how I'm going to replace everything from the rockers back with out it folding. Only metal that's staying is the roof, rear window / deck, and inner skeleton.
Matman3
11-24-2014, 12:07 PM
Your quarter panel replacement is going fine. The removal process looks pretty good. Make sure all the flanges to be welded are straight and have been ground down to bare metal and coated with weld-thru primer so they don't rust down the road.
When you install the panel besure to test fit with door in place so you get the gaps right and most important, Put the jack stands under the rear axle simulating actual vehicle weight. Otherwise, the jack stands supporting the car at the torque boxes are acting as a fulcrum point and all the metal, rear end, suspension, gas tank, etc will pull the rear of the vehicle down a few millimeters. That will show up at the door gaps once you put it back down on the ground.
When you get around to doing the rails and floor pans, hit me up. The order in which you were palnning is a little off. Not to criticize but just trying to help. I've done hundreds of quarters and rails in my career and have made LOTS of mistakes but in the end they are always done right.
Buryingthesun
11-25-2014, 04:54 AM
Your quarter panel replacement is going fine. The removal process looks pretty good. Make sure all the flanges to be welded are straight and have been ground down to bare metal and coated with weld-thru primer so they don't rust down the road.
When you install the panel besure to test fit with door in place so you get the gaps right and most important, Put the jack stands under the rear axle simulating actual vehicle weight. Otherwise, the jack stands supporting the car at the torque boxes are acting as a fulcrum point and all the metal, rear end, suspension, gas tank, etc will pull the rear of the vehicle down a few millimeters. That will show up at the door gaps once you put it back down on the ground.
When you get around to doing the rails and floor pans, hit me up. The order in which you were palnning is a little off. Not to criticize but just trying to help. I've done hundreds of quarters and rails in my career and have made LOTS of mistakes but in the end they are always done right.
I do not have the rear axle for the car, I also had to cut the leaf springs out of the car. Do share the correct steps in replacing the panels! I think before I replace anything I should replace the main floor section then the trunk section. Then build off the trunk with the inner and outer wheel wells and then move out to the quarters. I just don't know what step to replace the frame rails.
Matman3
11-25-2014, 06:24 AM
One hard fast rule I build by is the KISS principle. Keep It Simple Stupid. Complexity adds to the chance you will make a mistake. This is how I would do it.
1. Take accurate measurements of each frame rail individually and as a unit. Length, width and cross measure as well heigth from ground or whatever datum line you can use. Once you are happy with the measurements take some pics. You might need them or you might not. Either way they can be useful.
2. Cut out rails, floor and reinforcements and wheelhouses.
3. install rails
4. Install floor
5. Re-install reinforcements and wheelhouses.
Here is the method to my madness. If you have all the measurements you do not need the floor in place to be used as reference points. This frees up alot of time saving and makes it easier on you physically. With the rails, trunk floor and misc reinforcements out of the way you will have a lot more room to clean up and prep the metal left behind. When you weld the rails in you can be kneeling inside the trunk area as opposed to on your back. With the rails in place you weld the majority of the seams by bending over into the trunk instead of doing overhead welds while laying on your back. Even the plug welds securing the floor to the rails can be done from inside the trunk instead of underneath by predrilling the holes in the trunk floor instead of the new rails. Now that the rails and trunk floor are in place you can reinstall the wheelhouses and reinforcemnets.
All of this is assuming the quarters are already installed. You have already started that part. You have to have the quarters in place to properly align the wheelhouses.
**Be absolutely sure the trunk area will NOT sag at all. If it does during the repair all of your measurements will be off. The means the rails, trunk floor and both door gaps will be off by alot**
Buryingthesun
11-25-2014, 06:41 AM
All of this is assuming the quarters are already installed. You have already started that part. You have to have the quarters in place to properly align the wheelhouses.
**Be absolutely sure the trunk area will NOT sag at all. If it does during the repair all of your measurements will be off. The means the rails, trunk floor and both door gaps will be off by alot**
I thought the quarters needed to be off to get the trunk floor in place?
This is how I think I need to do my process, please critique!
1. Repair rockers
2. Replace floor (entire floor)
3. Take frame rail measurements and detailed pictures of location.
4. Removed old frame rails and install new only to new floor pan.
5. Removed old trunk floor and replace
6. R&R wheel houses
7. R&R quarters
I also think I need to build a floor jig as it sits right now before I cut anything else off the car. I cant do the floors if the car is resting on the jack stands that are on the pinch welds.
Matman3
11-25-2014, 09:00 AM
I must have missed full floor replacement in a previous post. That changes things a little. Your repair process is perfect.You want to think of the quarters and rockers as the foundation now because they are. With the floor and rails gone, they are it. Also with the floor and rails gone you absoluetly have to structurally brace the interior so it does tweak. A jig would work too but bracing with small 1" metal square tube is cheaper and can be reused.
Trunk floor more often that not will fit through the trunk opening during replacement. Otherwise, it can be lifted into position from underneath.
Buryingthesun
11-25-2014, 09:58 AM
I must have missed full floor replacement in a previous post. That changes things a little. Your repair process is perfect.You want to think of the quarters and rockers as the foundation now because they are. With the floor and rails gone, they are it. Also with the floor and rails gone you absoluetly have to structurally brace the interior so it does tweak. A jig would work too but bracing with small 1" metal square tube is cheaper and can be reused.
Trunk floor more often that not will fit through the trunk opening during replacement. Otherwise, it can be lifted into position from underneath.
Sounds great! I'm glad I kinda mapped it out in my brain the right way lol
That would be quite helpful!
I just can't see how I'm going to replace everything from the rockers back with out it folding. Only metal that's staying is the roof, rear window / deck, and inner skeleton.
Hey man sorry I am so late getting these pics but after reading again I'm not sure if these are what you need but here they are anyway. These are the factory supports/braces.105760105761
Buryingthesun
12-26-2014, 04:16 AM
Hey man sorry I am so late getting these pics but after reading again I'm not sure if these are what you need but here they are anyway. These are the factory supports/braces.105760
I know for a fact I cut this one in the trunk/deck lid inhalf :/
Anyone know where a replacement can be purchased?
That is exactly how I feel, I want to do it myself. It is a track car some what so it may see damage after its all done. The plan is to do it right, once and by myself. I do not believe in paying someone to build my creation. This is not a high dollar project by any means but im sure by time im done it will be worth more in time then parts value. Time = Education and we all know you can not put a price tag on this kind of education.
I agree with you I like doing as much as I can myself too. Although a real pain sometimes it's a good feeling when your done and it looks great. Good luck with your project I love first gen firebirds.
jlcustomz
12-26-2014, 08:18 AM
Although you really have you're work cut out for you on a project like this, at least you're in control here & free from (paint jail) , dealing with what turns out to be hacks , etc. Learning what NOT to do can be just as helpful as what to do in the long run. For example, high spots in the metalwork can be worse at bodywork time than low spots.
Once you're done with the metalwork part & seal with epoxy primer, I'd spray a few coats of polyester primer surface such as evercoat G-2 or Claussins to begin blocksanding . Then you'll start to feel the satisfying part of the job. Check out the bodywork pics in the Dante's chevelle thread by autorod technologies in the projects section. This is a good example of how to do your prep for paint.
I know for a fact I cut this one in the trunk/deck lid inhalf :/
Anyone know where a replacement can be purchased?
AMD does sell these http://www.autometaldirect.com/chq-67-68-camaro-firebird-coupe-quarter-panel-trunk-opening-stiffener---lh-p-2599.html
BTW I'm not sure if you have a tail panel yet but I hope you have better luck than I do. The one I got from NPD for my car that I am keeping wasn't too bad but the one I have now for the car I am going to sell is a CHL and I am going to have to do some work on it. The section that has the gutter on it is a 1/4" short (front to back) so the quarter to tail alignment at the gutter section is way off. I will probably have to cut the gutter section off the tail panel and weld in a filler piece.
I found this thread (post #59 has a pic) http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190185&page=4
So I guess this is a somewhat common problem.
Buryingthesun
12-26-2014, 12:14 PM
AMD does sell these http://www.autometaldirect.com/chq-67-68-camaro-firebird-coupe-quarter-panel-trunk-opening-stiffener---lh-p-2599.html
BTW I'm not sure if you have a tail panel yet but I hope you have better luck than I do. The one I got from NPD for my car that I am keeping wasn't too bad but the one I have now for the car I am going to sell is a CHL and I am going to have to do some work on it. The section that has the gutter on it is a 1/4" short (front to back) so the quarter to tail alignment at the gutter section is way off. I will probably have to cut the gutter section off the tail panel and weld in a filler piece.
I found this thread (post #59 has a pic) http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190185&page=4
So I guess this is a somewhat common problem.
Great information! Thank you for sharing, I couldn't find those braces on AMD when I searched before!
Did you ever buy 1/4 panels? I just got some from AMD and they are Tri-Plus brand. I haven't tried to install them yet but out of the box they look pretty good. I was trying to get away with skins on this car but it just didn't work out. I figured even though AMD doesn't do the tooling for the firebird quarters that they would at least try use a quality supplier. Hopefully I can get started this weekend.
If you do decide to order the "AMD" Triplus quarters you can order them through http://www.carid.com/1967-pontiac-firebird-quarter-panels/auto-metal-direct-quarter-panel-40761258.html and you can save some money. They are $308 each through CARID.
Buryingthesun
01-14-2015, 08:59 AM
Did you ever buy 1/4 panels? I just got some from AMD and they are Tri-Plus brand. I haven't tried to install them yet but out of the box they look pretty good. I was trying to get away with skins on this car but it just didn't work out. I figured even though AMD doesn't do the tooling for the firebird quarters that they would at least try use a quality supplier. Hopefully I can get started this weekend.
If you do decide to order the "AMD" Triplus quarters you can order them through http://www.carid.com/1967-pontiac-firebird-quarter-panels/auto-metal-direct-quarter-panel-40761258.html and you can save some money. They are $308 each through CARID.
I have not ordered them yet, PLEASE post pictures of your quarters and link me to anything related to installing them.
Do you have pics of progresses ?
Gil
Buryingthesun
01-20-2015, 10:41 AM
Do you have pics of progresses ?
Gil
I honestly have no progress to document. I've been quite busy with work and have had little time to make orders and continue work on this car. Soon enough when the temps raise and the sun is up later then 4:30pm I will lol
68400BIRD
02-05-2015, 08:44 AM
I have a friend who just put both sides of full quarters on a 67 Bird. The fit was pretty good. I was impressed. He only had one problem with them but he was working on a convertible. Right next to the tulip panel he had some flex in the panels. You will not have that problem with a coupe.
Buryingthesun
02-06-2015, 08:57 AM
I have a friend who just put both sides of full quarters on a 67 Bird. The fit was pretty good. I was impressed. He only had one problem with them but he was working on a convertible. Right next to the tulip panel he had some flex in the panels. You will not have that problem with a coupe.
Do you happen to know what brand he used?
68400BIRD
02-08-2015, 03:26 PM
I will check
68400BIRD
02-09-2015, 08:53 AM
He bought them through AMD about nine months ago. To the best of my knowledge AMD does make 67 quarters. But, I'm sure they have a preferred vendor. Like I stated before I was very impressed with the fit.
Just wanted to pass this video along, very good info on quarter panel replacement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOXlVUh2EdI
I have been working on mine and did get the AMD/TriPlus quarters on but I still have some work to do. Overall they fit pretty good and if I had to do another firebird I would buy them again.
There were a few small issues but nothing big. Just like most of the quarter panels I hear about the trunk opening was too wide for the trunk lid so I had to slice the driver side quarter beside the trunk lid and move it over then weld in a filler piece.
Also one small area on the rear corner of the passenger side quarter panel stuck out too far when it was butted against the tail panel. I just pie cut it, hammered a little then welded it back together. I really could have left it alone since the bumper would have covered that area up.
Buryingthesun
03-16-2015, 02:27 AM
Just wanted to pass this video along, very good info on quarter panel replacement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOXlVUh2EdI
I have been working on mine and did get the AMD/TriPlus quarters on but I still have some work to do. Overall they fit pretty good and if I had to do another firebird I would buy them again.
There were a few small issues but nothing big. Just like most of the quarter panels I hear about the trunk opening was too wide for the trunk lid so I had to slice the driver side quarter beside the trunk lid and move it over then weld in a filler piece.
Also one small area on the rear corner of the passenger side quarter panel stuck out too far when it was butted against the tail panel. I just pie cut it, hammered a little then welded it back together. I really could have left it alone since the bumper would have covered that area up.
Thank you for the info! i unfortunately haven't even worked on the car since early winter, lack of heat in my garage is demotivating to say the least lol
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