68 Camaro Suspension...confused on build

[Travis104]

Hello,
I have a 68 Camaro, currently a 327 4 speed numbers matching car. I want to make something a little more fun out of it, so I was thinking a 454 stroked to a 496 and a Muncie M22 instead of the Saginaw. I want to update the suspension on it, and it seems the more I research the more confused I get with so many different setups. I want to have something that will handle decent on the street, maybe do an autox from time to time just for fun. I have been looking at the Hotchkis TVS system that lowers the car 3 inches front and rear, but still maintains the leaf springs. I have a ZL1 so the 68 will just be a fun cruiser for now. I don't really know if this is a good system for that or not? I have read a ton of reviews and some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. The car needs new frame rails and torque boxes on both sides. I am also going to upgrade to 4 wheel disc, but I am getting kind of overwhelmed, and haven't even started yet. Guess I just need some advice on where to start, and if this is a pretty good kit for the money. Thanks for any help

Travis

[Schwartz Performance]

A kit that nobody I know of has complained about is the RideTech kit. 4 link coilover rear and tubular front arms and coilovers.
Wilwood makes decently priced brake kits, or go the C5/6 route with Kore3 brackets.

-Dale

[Nicks67GTO]

Hello,
I have a 68 Camaro, currently a 327 4 speed numbers matching car. I want to make something a little more fun out of it, so I was thinking a 454 stroked to a 496 and a Muncie M22 instead of the Saginaw. I want to update the suspension on it, and it seems the more I research the more confused I get with so many different setups. I want to have something that will handle decent on the street, maybe do an autox from time to time just for fun. I have been looking at the Hotchkis TVS system that lowers the car 3 inches front and rear, but still maintains the leaf springs. I have a ZL1 so the 68 will just be a fun cruiser for now. I don't really know if this is a good system for that or not? I have read a ton of reviews and some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. The car needs new frame rails and torque boxes on both sides. I am also going to upgrade to 4 wheel disc, but I am getting kind of overwhelmed, and haven't even started yet. Guess I just need some advice on where to start, and if this is a pretty good kit for the money. Thanks for any help

Travis

I don't have any suggestions on an F body chassis but I would toss out there that you can darn near buy a TKO600 for what most of the boys want for a good rebuilt M-22. I would say having a 5-speed is the first big step into making your car more fun, usable, interstate friendly and modern. I would spend money on that before I spent it anywhere else in upgrades. JMO.

[Travis104]

Thanks for the advice. Would the TKO600 bolt right up to the big block like the m22 would? I didn't know if the clutch setup would be the same?

[dhutton]

Thanks for the advice. Would the TKO600 bolt right up to the big block like the m22 would? I didn't know if the clutch setup would be the same?

Hurst Driveline or Silver Star will have turnkey kits.

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/

Don

[TheJDMan]

I recommend the LGT-700 (http://legendgt.com/Products/lgt-700/) over the TKO600. It is stronger and it will bolt up to the stock GM bellhousing. Since you are talking about buying a different engine anyway, I would recommend you consider a 383 stroker crate engine rather than a big heavy 454. A big block is ok for a Pro-Street car which can't turn well anyway but it makes the nose too heavy for a Pro-Touring car. The added weight of the big block will hinder the handling performance of any PT suspension mods you might plan.

[MIGHTY MIKE B.]

I have a 68 Camaro that I have installed just about all you are thinking about. I have the hotchkis suspension with the 1.5” drop. Qa1 coil overs in the front and Qa1 adjustable shocks in the back. Steroids rack and pinion steering, and ssbc disc brakes on front and back. The 327 is coming out and a 406 sbc is going in once fixed, has a bad shack. The transmission has also been changed the Muncie 4 speed to a tko600. I have been happy with all the changes. The only modification that I might change is the brakes and that’s because I changed from 15” rims to 17” rims and have room for bigger brakes. I take the car to shows and cruise nights. I have also autocross the car 6 times over the past year and having a blast.104511

[Chad-1stGen]

I ran a Hotchkis TVS kit minus rear sway bar but plus their Hotchkis valved Bilstein shocks until I started getting much more into track days and autocross events. I ran this set up for 10K miles, 2-3 autocross events and 1 road course track day. Its a great setup for mostly street driving with maybe an occasional autocross.

Two things that will also help big time. 1) Fix the camber gain geometry with either Guldstrand mod, tall ball joint, or tall spindle. 2) Get a modern alignment. A great starting point can be read about here: http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm#Alignment%20specs

[Mkelcy]

I ran a Hotchkis TVS kit minus rear sway bar but plus their Hotchkis valved Bilstein shocks until I started getting much more into track days and autocross events. I ran this set up for 10K miles, 2-3 autocross events and 1 road course track day. Its a great setup for mostly street driving with maybe an occasional autocross.

Two things that will also help big time. 1) Fix the camber game geometry with either Guldstrand mod, tall ball joint, or tall spindle. 2) Get a modern alignment. A great starting point can be read about here: http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm#Alignment%20specs

LOL, Chad, I won't repost that picture.

[Chad-1stGen]

LOL, Chad, I won't repost that picture.

Ha ha I don't mind if you do! We are all here to learn, plus that was a lifetime ago.

[GeoffP]

I agree with both Chad-1stGen and Dale from Schwartz Performance. The TVS is a good start but only go that route if you have NO plans of upgrading in the future. If you want more out of the car with the least investment, I'd highly recommend going straight to RideTech's setup. I put a couple years worth of miles on my car with the stock suspension (mono leafs), about 3 years on it with the TVS and have had the full RideTech setup for the last year and a half. If I had it to do all over again, I never would've bought the Hotchkis parts and would've gone straight to the RideTech setup.

For a more technical explanation on why RideTech is that much better, hit up Rodney Prouty (Rod on the board). He can tell you all the reason why RideTech produces such a dramatic improvement over the Hotchkis setup.

[Travis104]

I will check into the ride tech suspension. At this point I don't see it going any farther, but who knows.

I was looking at an383 stroker, but always wanted a big block. Would aluminum heads and intake balance out the heavier block?

[Mkelcy]

I will check into the ride tech suspension. At this point I don't see it going any farther, but who knows.

I was looking at an383 stroker, but always wanted a big block. Would aluminum heads and intake balance out the heavier block?

No.

[Travis104]

I ended up getting a good deal on a rebuilt 383 stroker with ceramic coated hooker headers, chrome pullies, oil pan, alt bracket, starter, rebuilt heads, roller rockers, pete Jackson gear drive and it also came with a muncie m21 Trans with new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, blow proof bell housing and hurst shifter. Got it for $1400 bucks