462ci turbo street engine for sale, fresh 1200hp+

[aronhk_md]

PONTIAC 462ci turbo street engine for sale, fresh
Location: DE

Newly built boosted Pontiac 462ci engine. It was built to run on 91 octane pump fuel. The goal was multi-faceted. Build a high HP engine with better street manners than your average 750hp build while being reliable enough and quiet enough to drive 2 hours to the beach while enjoying the stereo, AC, power brakes. This engine was carefully built by a machinist who regularly works with boosted applications, and a mechanic who has raced Pontiacs in the family for decades. Every clearance was checked and double checked, from bearings to rocker arm geometry.

This engine in its previous configuration made 1064 hp at 15 psi. That was with iron 6x heads, a smaller and less efficient turbo and a smaller more restrictive exhaust. Now it will breathe and boost better.

462 ci complete engine boost ready. 1.5 hrs on break in stand, have videos. In storage for the last year. Selling with forward facing turbo headers that fit 2nd gen bird. If you don’t want the turbo or headers we can talk price, but at this time not breaking up the engine. Heck, the carb alone here would run $1600.

-8.1:1 compression

-Block 2 bolt main (some claim that the factory 4 bolt is actually weaker), interior valley area smoothed. Exterior smoothed, then painted base/clear coat House Of Kolor Galaxy Grey. Distributor plug drilled .020 for oiling

-ARP studs/bolts throughout

-Nodular crank polished

-Arias dished pistons

-Bill Miller aluminum rods

---everything carefully checked, and rotating assembly balanced by a competent machinist

-E-heads flowing 300 cfm on intake at .600 Exterior of heads have been polished, external oil drain at rear of heads to return oil to pan.

-Comp Cams solid lifter cam .518 lift after lash on intake, 516 on exhaust. This cam was purposefully chosen as an almost identical one in the engine’s last life made peak torque at 4800 rpm and peak HP at 5500 rpm. The only real change was previously we used 1.5 rockers, and the cam had a drop more lift. To make the valvetrain super reliable we chose 1.65 rockers this time and dropped cam lift for the same overall lift. The springs and valves can take up to approximately 5.90 lift, but we didn’t see the need.

-Comp cams 800-16 solid lifters w/EDM oil hole (called cool face)

-Butlers 5/16 x .116 wall 4130 pushrods at 9.60 length

-Scorpion 1.65 roller rockers

-Lunati 73100 springs

-Stud girdle

-Valve cover spacers (base/clear coated House Of Kolor Galaxy Grey)

-Timing cover stock but smoothed of casting flash (base/clear coated House Of Kolor Galaxy Grey)

-Innovators West harmonic balancer

-MSD billet vacuum advance distributor

-All Pontiac aluminum valley pan (base/clear coated House Of Kolor Galaxy Grey)

-Precision Oil Pumps 80 psi Race series pump (Just like Butler’s top blueprinted pump)

-Warrior gated oil pan with bungs welded in for turbo oil return, oil return lines from E-heads and oil temp sender(base/clear coated House Of Kolor Galaxy Grey) - KEEPING THE PAN NOW. YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPLY YOUR OWN PAN.

-March Serpentine Style Track serpentine belt setup with AC compressor

-Butler fabricated aluminum valve covers NOT PICTURED

-Polished Northwind intake manifold

-830 CFM CSU blow through carb

-Custom forward facing turbo headers for 2nd gen bird NOT PICTURED

-mini starter (trying to remember which one)

*If you prefer to go the fuel injected route we have a Super Victor 4500 style intake and a set of fuel rails brand new that could go with instead of the CSU carb and Northwind intake. Also if you want to buy the engine without the turbo and turbo manifolds we could discuss that as well.



$9800 with the March Serpentine setup
$8500 without
Will sell without turbo headers too. Polished Garrett 4788 available too.

[epeterson]

I know one of the moderators will come in and say this so i'll ask now, location and price?

[epeterson]

Sorry didn't fully click on ad to see, just saw pictures in the post.

[aronhk_md]

Hi guys. The location is in the upper right where it lists how many posts I have. Delaware. the price is in the last line before the pictures. $12,500 with possible trades. Forgot to add that the reason for the sale is I just purchased a turbo LQ4 based engine. I'm going to go the swap route.

[jonesbs9]

do you have any pics, of it assembled with the manifolds and turbo? or better turbo pics?

[yellow1098Greg]

Dam I want this!! Smh

[aronhk_md]

I have videos of the engine being broken in on the stand for someone with serious interest. At that time it had junky valve covers just to protect it and since we broke the cam in on the stand with single springs, then put on the full double spring set after. I cant seem to find at present the pics of the headers on the engine. They were built to clear a 2nd gen power steering box and engine mounts.

103482
103481

[aronhk_md]

this may help a bit

[BEEBE]

Aron , Are the headers Rons regular 2nd gen turbo headers? If you are willing to sell the headers let me know. Thanks

[aronhk_md]

Yes, they are Ron's first set. I'd like to offer them to the individual who buys the engine first, but if that person doesn't need them I'll let you know. They should also fit 2nd gen A body as well. 68-72.

[aronhk_md]

Some info on the BOP TH400 and converter for sale.

BOP short tail 400 turbo trans built by Hughes. They rate this build to 800 hp. 3 dragstrip passes, maybe a couple of dozen hits on the street with street tires and 4 dyno runs...plus maybe 600 street miles. max

The trans is a reverse manual pattern with trans brake, Koleen steels, red clutches upgraded intermediate drum.

The Hughes 10" converter was originally built for a 1200 nitrous car but never used for that car. It has seen the same use as the transmission above, but was sent back to Hughes for a re stall twice, last time 100 miles ago. Not because anything was wrong, but changed my needs. Has only seen a few hard blips on the street in that time. Stall was set tight for 3000 rpm on a 1000 hp turbo application. The converter could be restalled if needed but its best home will probably be a turbo car or other power adder.

Trans plus converter $1800
Trans alone $1550
Converter alone $400

[aronhk_md]

Occurred to us there may be people not interested in the fabrication required to do a turbo car. But this engine would also make an excellent roots blower engine, or one to add the Luhn procharger setup to. If someone is interested I can pull out of the sale the turbo and turbo related pieces, intake, carb, March track setup (the water pump is part of that since its reverse rotation), distributor, valve covers, oil pan, balancer.

Basically a long block ready for boost. I'd leave in the valve cover spacers, rocker girdles, timing cover, precision oil pump, All Pontiac valley pan. So you can bolt your blower on between my polished E-heads, your accessories and in a day you could be up and running. The heads are also plumbed for oil return to your pan which is a nice extra. Its already run on the break in stand.

Pricing that option at $7000. Depending what blower setup you have or buy you could be blown for 10K or so. And unlike some other enjoyable blown ideas you CAN tell your wife. lol Maybe.

Can also add things back in as desired. If you are far I can deliver for expenses within a reasonable distance, but I also have a reasonable way to ship cross country. Just shipped an engine on a pallet with other stuff from TX to PA for $175

Forgot to add that Cometic head gaskets were used.

[Takid455]

Thoughts on selling the March system separately?

[aronhk_md]

If the engine sells first without it :)

[aronhk_md]

1) lowering it a bit to $10,000 for engine plus either turbo or brand new Procharger setup, or $7000 for a blower or turbo ready long block.

2) If you are interested in the whole package I will do "financing" in a sense. Half down now, the other half due in 90 days and you can then pick it up or have me ship it. Merry Xmas and Happy Hannukah, Kwanza, etc!

3) Looking for an interesting roller project that needs a drivetrain. GTO, lemans conv, firebird, wagon...just throwing ideas out. Doesnt have to be a pontiac even. lol I have another nice lower HP engine and nothing to put it in. One caveat is I really don't want something needing a lot of bodywork unless it is some rare high dollar piece. I don't mind if it needs paint. Please be realistic if you throw a project my way. Just like I have to be realistic that I cannot get everything I have in this engine back out. So market value of what you have set against the engine, and we can discuss what we think that may be.


I have two 1200 hp engines and only one car built for this. So since this one has not moved yet I am going to list the other one too and see what happens.

[Nativefx]

What year is the block? As you mentioned it was built for both high horsepower and street manners on 91 octane gas, can it be reliable for a mainly street car (i.e. where in RPM does power/torque come on, turbo lag, choppy idle, etc)? Any problems with overheating? You mentioned this was in a 2nd gen Firebird, and I have a 69 Firebird that I'm working on and decided to stick with the stock subframe so I'm not sure what kinds of clearance issues I may run into, and if I'd need to consider beefing up any additional bracing. I'm running a Ridetech AirRide setup so the added weight shouldn't be a problem, although my initial thoughts was to consider a built LS3 swap as I wanted somewhere around 500hp but reliable enough to drive on trips possibly 6hrs or more. It won't necessarily be a daily driver, but I'm building my car to drive and not as a trailer queen. Any idea on fuel consumption (and I know this isn't usually a question people worry about when building 1,000hp motors, but it would be nice to have an idea)? You mentioned having the break it on video, can you either post that or send it to me?

[aronhk_md]

I'll try to answer each thing individually so I don't miss anything.

1) 1973 block, so one of the strong ones

2) Very reliable AND street friendly. The guess is without the turbo at around 600 hp, and its a relatively street friendly cam profile. Idles right around 900 rpm comfortable and quietly with a nice lope, but not choppy. Compression ratio is 8.25:1 It made peak HP at 5500 rpm, and peak torque at 4800 rpm, so no need to spin this up to crazy rpm for power. Turbo "lag" is not really noticeable because the motor by itself is a torque bear...the turbo just makes it a monster. Didn't have any overheating issues in its previous build, and it hasn't been run in the car since but there is no reason to believe it would have any. The heads are now aluminum as opposed to iron too.

3) These headers may or may not fit your frame. I can GET you a set of turbo headers that will though, and it really shouldn't affect the price of anything more than about $100. Nice thing about turbos is you can place them in numerous areas and run the piping as needed, so fitting them is an exercise but always doable.

4) over a normal Pontiac engine you really aren't adding weight. The weight saved by going to aluminum heads is gained back by the turbo. The piping etc is pretty minimal. It DOES weigh more than an LS engine though.

5) My plan was to drive it everywhere for hours at a time. With that in mind the cam profile, choice of solid lifters, compression ration, bearing clearances, oil pump, oil return lines from the heads...all of that was considered.

6) fuel mileage is more going to depend on your gear ratios and transmission gears (overdrive?). the MAIN reason modern corvettes get 30 mpg is because of the TALL overdrive gearing. When they are going down the road at 65 mph they are turning over at 1600 rpm. The closer you get to doing that, the better the mileage will be on the highway. I have seen similar 455's with tall gearing that people have managed to get 20-23 mpg highway in a boxy old GTO. But that's a trade off against performance. Remember, a turbo doesn't use any more fuel than the naturally aspirated engines if you aren't into the pedal and making boost. Keeping an eye on your boost gauge tells that story to an extent.

My old setup with 3.73 gears and a turbo 400 only did 13 mpg highway. But that also did 2700 rpm at 65 mph

7) PM me your email and I will see if I can locate the break in video.

[Nativefx]

Thanks for the quick reply. If this were the route I chose I think i would definitely want the complete boosted motor as I'm sure it would be much more fun! This would also help to offset the added weight from motor, stereo, relocated battery in trunk, and AirRide setup. If I decided instead to go with a fuel injected setup, what would be needed to support this beast?

Who built the motor and do you have all the documentation of parts? Pics during build, etc?

As for the fuel mileage, I just wanted to get an idea as I know the decision on gear ratio and transmission would have a big impact. Hopefully I could find someone to help me get that all figured out. My plan was to hopefully be able to achieve somewhere around 25+mpg hwy with whatever setup I went with. As I said, I want to be able drive this and not just look at it on a trailer or in the garage.

I already know I will be replacing the rear end to a 9" once I get the wider wheels positioned and figure out the WMS to WMS as I've already installed minitubs to accommodate 325mm tires. My plan was to replace the trans with a T56 magnum mated to an LS3, but I'm not sure that would work with this application. In that case I would definitely look to have a built OD trans built to hopefully handle this kind of hp. I'll PM you my email as I'd like to take a look at the video. thanks again!

[aronhk_md]

Well, this can be run boosted either WITH or WITHOUT fuel injection. With is the higher tech and ultimate way to go. If you wanted the fuel injection there will be a price differential as the Big Stuff 3 brain itself is a $2400 piece and the fuel rails/FI intake another $500. We would just subtract the carb and carb intake value from that if I kept those. If you want to do fuel injection there will still have to be a few things you'll need to source that I haven't bought yet. For example the throttle body.

The motor was built by Billy Groton of Groton's Performance in Seaford, DE. He and his father have been building and racing Pontiacs and Chevys for 30 plus yrs. I actually assisted with the entire build. I have built engines before. But I wanted to know how it was done right, and Billy is a friend. I may have some receipts but probably not all. I tried to keep important pieces of info on specs, but didn't plan to sell the engine, so wasn't thinking about receipts. Same when it came to building the engine. I thought to take pics once we threw the heads on but didn't think to take any prior.

All valvetrain components were new, but the heads themselves were not. Same with all bearings, etc. The rotating assembly was not new but everything was checked for every dimension, rods, pistons, crank, rings...before being balanced again.

One final note which needs to be said for anyone considering purchasing this engine. Because it uses aluminum rods, if you are going to start this in colder weather you really need to keep an oil pan warmer or heated oil dipstick in it. Dimensions change on the aluminum due to cold, and that includes bearing clearances. The bearings were all checked during prep and assembly and the clearances are NOT on the tight side...purposefully so. All within proper range, but toward the looser end of the range, and an 80 psi oil pump that was blueprinted chosen to keep the oil in those spaces. The same thing applies to driving this engine. You should make sure it is up to operating temperature before hammering it.

Since oil pressure is really a result of oil restriction going through the passages and bearings, an "80 psi" pump may only really read 60 psi once the engine is fully broken in if the bearing clearances are a tad loose. This has been explained to me by an engineer who builds oil pumps. Makes sense because the same thing applies to turbo pressure. Take a car that was running 15 psi boost, pull the heads off and port them, throw them back on and the boost number at the same setting will actually drop but the car will go faster................all because there is less restriction for the air headed from the turbo into the engine. Just throwing it out there as even though we had 80 psi when cold it was more like 60 at temp and 2000 rpm. But it was also explained to me that the break in oil may not read the same as the Brad Penn oil that was planned for future use.

[aronhk_md]

Ttt

[aronhk_md]

Ttt

[aronhk_md]

Back on the market. For sale with or without the March serpentine setup. Will be removing the oil pan though.


$9800 with the March Serpentine setup
$8500 without
Will sell without turbo headers too. Polished Garrett 4788 available too.

[1977TRANSAM]

Do you still have the efi intake with Rails. If so do you wish to just sell that? and if so Price You also said Butler valve covers? what ones?

[aronhk_md]

Do appreciate the interest. If this engine doesnt sell by Xmas I think it may end up in my 67 wagon. If thats the case I will likely be using the EFI intake and the valve covers, so really not looking to separate for now.

I have lowered and listed the engine as a long block for $7000 elsewhere, but forgot to do so here. That is a similar package to what Butler charges $13000 for...except mine has some extras like ported E-heads, intake, polishing, etc. Does NOT include the March serpentine setup at that price.

[1977TRANSAM]

That's a hell of a price. If I wasn't already moving along on my build I would be very tempted. Best of Luck. if you decide to part with the valve covers on efi intake keep me in mind.

[aronhk_md]

Thanks, if I decide to I'll let you know. Theres a possibility...I may decide to keep the Northwind intake on it and just use a Fitech throttle body injection. Now building a 555 ci pontiac twin turbo for the trans am. :drive:

[rustykey]

Oh man, this would be sick in my 64 Catalina. Not in the market though but will pass it on to some friends. Good luck with the sell and a heck of a price.

[yellow1098Greg]

I'm very interested for my 77 Ta so it would fit right in. Maybe I could talk to you about a few options. Thanks!

Greg

[aronhk_md]

Thanks Rusty. Yes Greg, its almost drop in depending on what you purchased. I'll send you my # if you'd like to talk about it.