My 66 Chevelle P/T build

[MMcMasters]

I'm new to this site and wanted to introduce myself and hopefully get some advice and guidance on my next build. I have been a member at Team Chevelle for many years and a few members here are also members at TC. One in particular is "TommyComfort" aka Tom Farrington. I have admired his 66 from reading his threads over at TC. I have never met Tom but by all accounts he is a great guy and he definitely has a sweet 66 Chevelle. I'm excited to be over here now and I hope its as good of a group as we have over there.

I gave up drag racing a year ago and that need for competition is still there. I really want to give Auto Cross a try and my build is going to be geared towards this. I have been looking for a solid 66 Chevelle for a few months now but I wasn't having much luck. I sold my 69 Camaro this week so my search for a new car intensified. Here is a picture of my Camaro right before it's new owner showed up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps32fe71c9.jpg.html)

I have traveled a lot of miles recently only to turn around and come home empty because the seller misrepresented their car. Well this weekend I found my new project. It's not perfect but as much as I drive and beat on my cars, it never will be perfect. I think it's a solid starting point and I'm more than a little excited to get started. It has new hotchkis rear lowering springs and a new front coil over spring conversion. Im not sure brand on front coil overs on the front yet. New wheels and tires that will go on another project down the road or get sold to recover some costs for new wheels. Here are a few pictures on the way home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsf4187dfa.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsae4fda67.jpg.html)

I have been thinking about what I wanted to do to this car long before I ever found it. My plan for this winter is to pull the body off to paint and detail the bottom of the floors and install ABC Performance mini tubs. The frame will get Abc Performance's frame notch kit and boxing plates.

As far as suspension I have been researching Detroit Speed, Ride Tech and Speed Tech's suspension packages. I definitely want to do coil over conversion on both ends for nothing else but the ability to adjust ride height. All of these suspensions will far exceed my Auto Cross abilities at first so I guess my main concern is ride quality first since it will see a ton of street miles. Secondary would be track performance. I 'm hoping to get some input from some of you who have already done the trial and error and have found a nice package that works.

Power will come from an LS3 and either a TKO600 or T56. I know the T56 requires some serious tunnel mods but I hope to hear from some guys that have used either of these in a 66 A body. Rear end will most likely be a fabricated 9". The car needs wired and I will get that from American Auto Wire. I love the looks of the 66 and want to retain all of the moldings, emblems etc... i love that look. The interior will be much of the same. Stock buckets with better foam, stock door panels and dash. The biggest change in the interior will be the Dakota Digital VHX gauges to work with the LS3.

I know I want to run a 335/18 in the rear and as big as I can fit up front without excessive rubbing. Wheels are completely up in the air right now. I know I don't like the wheels that came on the car so they are definitely going. I found some I like from Forgeline but WOW are they pricey.

I'm sorry for being long winded on my first post and hope I didn't offend anyone. This thread will move slowly at first while I spend the next few weeks gathering parts. It should take off pretty good once the weather turns bad.

Thanks for allowing me to share my experience,

Mike McMasters

[JHunter]

Mike - First off, welcome! Those are both great looking cars, I'm sure it was hard letting the 69 go, but at least you weren't project-less for long. I look forward to seeing this develop.

[MMcMasters]

I appreciate the kind words. I can't wait to get started but I really want to do my research and try not to buy things twice. I have always been into stock rebuilds/restorations so this pro touring thing is all new to me. It's overwhelming how many different companies are offering suspension systems, brake systems, wheel combinations etc... My head is spinning so I want to slow down and attempt to get what's right for me the first time.

Mike

[csouth]

Welcome aboard! Very nice car to start with. I have met Tom in person and I can say he is a nice guy all the way around. Looking forward to watching your car evolve...

[kwhizz]

Except for the trans there's some info that will help in this thread.........Make sure you get a Holley 302-2 pan to clear the steering.....

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/101814-66-Chevelle-LSA-6L90E-Conversion?p=1018908#post1018908


Ken

[MMcMasters]

I'll check that link out Ken. Thank you

Mike

[MMcMasters]

Except for the trans there's some info that will help in this thread.........Make sure you get a Holley 302-2 pan to clear the steering.....

[url]https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/101814-66-Chevelle-LSA-6L90E-Conversion?p=1018908#post1018908[/u


Ken

Ken,

I just read your thread, you car is awesome..Congratulations!!

[MMcMasters]

Sunday I finally got a chance to install my new lift. This is something I have wanted for years but never quite got around to getting. It's going to make life so much easier. Only thing I have left to do is drill for the floor anchors and I'm sweating it because I have radiant floor heat.

I spent hours the day before we poured the floor, measuring and taking pictures. I knew exactly where I wanted to put a lift in the future and laid out the pex tubing accordingly. I will probably not have any issues but I'm still freaking out a little. Wish me luck, it will get drilled tonight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/09/image_zps3ba6faff-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3ba6faff.jpg.html)

[bonecrrusher]

You have a shop build thread?

[MMcMasters]

You have a shop build thread?

I never did one but I did document it very well with pictures as I went. Are you building a shop right now or getting ready to?

Mike

[Gary's66]

Way to go Mike.
Can't wait to see what you do with your Chevelle.

[MMcMasters]

I talked with Hurst Driveline about a TKO600 and Dakota Digital about the new VHX gauges today. Hurst Driveline told me I would need to get a SGI-5 box to get the VHX gauges to work with the electronic speedo due to the TKO being a 2 wire speed sensor and the gauges being a 3 wire setup.

When I called Dakota Digital their tech said it will be fine without the SGI-5 box and their gauge would work with the 2 wire system on the TKO. Does anyone on here use a TKO with the new VHX gauges? Looking for some real world experience.

Mike

[Yelcamino]

Mike,

I have the VHX gauges in my C10 with a 4L80. I haven't had it on the road yet, but Dakota told me the same thing, I only need the two wires (it's also in the instruction manual). Once I actually drive it down the road, I'll let you know if it works.

[MMcMasters]

Thank you Herb, I appreciate it.

Mike

[Mike H]

LS3 and the 6 speed is going to be a fun combination in the Chevelle. I did an LS1 and a T56 in a 70 Chevelle. I ended up redoing the entire trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel so I could get the tailshaft as high as I wanted without fear of hitting.

Check Formula 43 for wheels too. They'll make they any width and offset you want.

[tommycomfort]

I'm following along for sure!

[Rick D]

Looks like a great car to start with, welcome the Pro-Touring side!! Nice to another member from IL!

[MMcMasters]

Not a lot to update yet but I have ordered my suspension pieces. It will be a complete Ride Tech level 2 coil over system with their strong arms and sway bars. Thank you Tom Farrington!! I spent a good part of my Sunday with a heat gun and a scraper removing an 1/8" of undercoating from the floorpans. I was able to get about 25% of it done. This is a nasty job but I am extremely happy with the pristine floor pans underneath.

Hoping to have the body off next weekend and finish cleaning the floor pans and wheel wells. Then I will start on the mini tub. By the time I get this done, I should have all of my new suspension and steering pieces to do a pre-assembly before blowing it all apart and doing the frame notch (ABC Performance) for the mini tub and boxing the frame.

Has anyone used a needle scaler to remove the soft undercoating?? I'm going to buy one today and give it a try. The heat gun works good but it's time consuming. Did I mention this is a nasty job:)

Mike

[MMcMasters]

My fiance and my son were a huge help this weekend. We pulled the column and master cylinderand finished prepping to separate the body/chassis. I felt fortunate that only one body mount bolt broke, all the rest came out with no effort.

We were able to get the body off and spent a lot of time cataloging and organizing. Here are a few pictures of our progress. I am a very lucky guy to have a family that enjoys the hobby as much as I do

I'm in the market for a rotisserie and maybe a body cart. I would love some suggestions on companies that some of you have used and what your thoughts were about their products.

I will probably build my own body cart but the rotisserie is definitely going to be a purchase very soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo1_zps663083da.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo22_zps9681b53b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo32_zps748d5eec.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/photo1_zps4cc28eae-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo1_zps4cc28eae.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/photo2_zps34c24d3e-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo2_zps34c24d3e.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/photo3_zps9f438374-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo3_zps9f438374.jpg.html)

[72BBSwinger]

Looks like a really nice starting point for sure. I love Tom Farringtons car and that guy is probably a jack pot of knowledge to use in the future.

[Bonehead]

Absolutely beautiful! Cant wait to see how you progress!

[MMcMasters]

I'm not at this point yet but I'm trying to look ahead and be prepared. My plan is to completely re wire the entire car. With all of the changes I will be making, including LS3, vintage air, VHX Gauges, efi tank etc... Who would you guys recommend to build my new harnesses?

I have looked at the American Auto Wire's Classic update kit. It seems like they send you pretty much everything I would need but it's definitely not a plug and play system. I fully understand I will have to terminate a lot of my own connections. Who else makes a quality, user friendly kit for my application?

Thanks,

Mike

[Gary's66]

Mike,
The shot of the car with the front end off looks familiar (your previous 66)
dejavu all over again :).
Anyway, great to see the family helping on the car. The satisfaction your son and fiance will have when the car is back on the road will be priceless.
Wiring, I would check out Ron Francis wiring for the harness. They sponsor here and the Pro-Touring podcast and I'm sure there are a lot of guys here that can attest to their quality.
Keep up the good work!

[MMcMasters]

Lots of pretty cool parts are starting to come in. Today, I drove a few hours over to Moorseville, Indiana to the Farrington compound to pick up my new Ridetech pieces. I got to meet Sam and the guard dogs and drool over the size of their new shop. It was a good day. I'm hoping to take advantage of this 3 day weekend and log some hours in the shop.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/image_zps512607f5-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps512607f5.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I'm not sure if anyone is following this or cares but I have a few updates.
The undercoating took a hell of a lot longer than it should have. Whoever did the undercoating went way overboard. After that I spent the better part of 30 hours with a heat gun, scraper and solvent cleaning the interior floorboards. Somebody thought completely covering the floors in tar paper was a good idea. It was a pain to get off. The residue left behind was harder to remove then the paper itself.

Under all of that tar paper, I found both toe boards had small rust spots and pin holes. I started on the driver's side toe board this weekend and should finish it this week. I also will need to replace the center trunk pan. It could probably be saved but would take as much time as replacing the entire center.

Good news is I have gathered nearly everything I need for the chassis. More pictures coming soon.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

After finding some pitting and pin holes I decided to replace the drivers front pan. I still have some fitting to do but it was a productive night.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/b3b8d2e2037140d0a0bcef3e133627e3_zps83e6-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/b3b8d2e2-0371-40d0-a0bc-ef3e133627e3_zps83e621c3.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I finished the driver's side floor pan yesterday, I still need to dress up the welds. I'm headed out today to start on the passenger toe board. Keep in mind that I'm not a metal finishing guy, so be nice :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/c7db073feaab40148b52484223edb3b9_zpsd158-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/c7db073f-eaab-4014-8b52-484223edb3b9_zpsd158a639.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/9266535a20ef419cb7c16eaae526f51a_zps4f51-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9266535a-20ef-419c-b7c1-6eaae526f51a_zps4f510d14.jpg.html)

[66 tintop]

Nice start to great pt Chevelle , nice place to work on your project ( lots of space ) subscribed ! Thanks for sharing !

[Zoomin]

I gather you didn't have any problems with tearing up your radiant heat?

What were the factors that lead you to choose Ride Tech over the others?

[Munssey]

I gather you didn't have any problems with tearing up your radiant heat?

What were the factors that lead you to choose Ride Tech over the others?

Interested in this as well... Have a Chevy project in the near future and believe Ride Tech might be my choice as well but interested to hear other's path to that decision.

[MMcMasters]

I gather you didn't have any problems with tearing up your radiant heat?

What were the factors that lead you to choose Ride Tech over the others?


Steve,

The lift install went very good, didn't hit any lines. I was pretty confident since I took a lot of measurements and made a diagram prior to pouring the floor but it was still stressful!!

I spent a lot of time on the phone with both Ride Tech and Detroit Speed. Both were extremely helpful and had great customer service. It was a toss up between the two but Ride Tech is fairly local to me and was $1000 cheaper. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind spending $$ on quality parts but I have confidence in Ride Tech's parts quality and I'm kind of a tight ass. I also have several buddies who use Ride Tech and are very happy and I will be able to pick their brains a little on set ups. Both companies participate in all of the USCA events and by all accounts have great customer service. A member here is a dealer and I bought my whole package from him. I hope this helps.

Mike

[rixtrix1]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on you project. Looks like you have a good plan to follow. The floorpan project seems to be coming along nicely. The rotisserie must really help; I had to do mine on my back with the body on a cart about 28" off the floor using a creeper. I was able to get most of the undercoating(OEM ONLY) off with a wire wheel in an angle grinder. Boy was that a mess, especially since I started with a body that had been left outside for over 10 years and inhabited by who knows what, but did it ever stink.

Do you have plans to reinforce the frame, or add a rollbar/cage? What about motor mounts? I have been looking at the Dirty Dingo mounts made here in the Phoenix area. A friend installed a Camaro LS1 into his '70 Chevelle using the stock pan and these mounts adapters. Close yes, but it still worked. I've also seen a lot of noise about the pan baffle kits for autoX and track use, but have never seen any reports on them. I've got an Accusump already that I will put to use. I really appreciate the updates as they help keep me motivated as I transition my '66 from a dragrace only car to a street/track toy. Sorry for all the questions, but as I said, you seem to have all your ducks in a row. Thanks for sharing!

[MMcMasters]

After much debate, I decided to replace the entire front passenger pan instead of just the lower toe board. I was able to finish it today. I have two more areas that need addressed. The center trunk pan has a little rust and the area where the two inner/rear seat belts anchor, are a little weak. I got lucky in the fact that the floors, braces, rockers and wheel houses are perfect.

Maybe I will get a little better at my sheet metal work by the time I'm done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/4f42913115b944c080492e7a25518aea_zps7560-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/4f429131-15b9-44c0-8049-2e7a25518aea_zps7560c21e.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on you project. Looks like you have a good plan to follow. The floorpan project seems to be coming along nicely. The rotisserie must really help; I had to do mine on my back with the body on a cart about 28" off the floor using a creeper. I was able to get most of the undercoating(OEM ONLY) off with a wire wheel in an angle grinder. Boy was that a mess, especially since I started with a body that had been left outside for over 10 years and inhabited by who knows what, but did it ever stink.

Do you have plans to reinforce the frame, or add a rollbar/cage? What about motor mounts? I have been looking at the Dirty Dingo mounts made here in the Phoenix area. A friend installed a Camaro LS1 into his '70 Chevelle using the stock pan and these mounts adapters. Close yes, but it still worked. I've also seen a lot of noise about the pan baffle kits for autoX and track use, but have never seen any reports on them. I've got an Accusump already that I will put to use. I really appreciate the updates as they help keep me motivated as I transition my '66 from a dragrace only car to a street/track toy. Sorry for all the questions, but as I said, you seem to have all your ducks in a row. Thanks for sharing!

Ric,

I plan to box the frame and also notch the frame rails to accommodate a 335/18 rear tire. I'm going to use ABC performance's laser cut plates for this and will do the work myself. I really like the look of the tiger cage (Ride Tech) but it's pretty pricey at around 2 grand. I come from a drag racing background and have a quite a few friends in the chassis business so I'm hoping to call in a few favors to get the cage done when/if that time comes.

As far as motor mounts I'm not sure yet, this will be my first LS build so I'm learning as I go. From what I have gathered the dirty dingo mounts/ energy suspension mounts and a 2 gen Holley pan is a safe combination. Tie rod clearance and header clearance seems to be the main issues. I'm going to bug as many 66 chevelle guys as I can so I only have to buy parts once:)

Mike

[MMcMasters]

Tonight I tackled the rear seat belt anchor. It had some rust and was pretty thin around the anchor. I made a new piece out of scrap from the new front pan, plug welded the anchor to the new piece and continued my sheet metal learning curve. :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/eed8d038e7dc463e887867396d0b99ec_zpse440-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/eed8d038-e7dc-463e-8878-67396d0b99ec_zpse4402ba2.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

Absolutely beautiful! Cant wait to see how you progress!

Thank you!!

[rixtrix1]

I had rust in the driver's floorpan and passenger rear footwell that I replaced with pieces from my original body as I changed from a 4 to a 2 door body before backhalfing and tubbing the car for drag only. I also used the trunk pan from the 4dr, and the tubs and coilover boxes took care of the rust in that. This was done 20 years ago, so this is really a brand new project again for me. I still have all the parts I have ever had on the car for the last 43 years with the exception of the other 6 engines that have been it. Current 331 has the original shortblock with new pistons. I may go with that originally as I want to finish the body, suspension and drivetrain first before spending more on another engine.

Your sheetmetal skills look fine to me. My car will not be as " nice" as many of the cars here, including yours, but that has never been my intention( or within my budget). I got it to use in my motorsports and driving adventures and I enjoy it immensely anyway.

Top pic is current and bottom is a scan of an old pic from 1995.

[kwhizz]

Mike...........Beautiful Job...........You will love it when finished......


Ken

[DryftKult]

Looking good, those welds look like they'll clean up fine, stop being so critical of your own work mate.

Great project btw, looking forward to more updates on this :)

[66 tintop]

Keep going ! It's all good when u can work on your dream car ! Workmanship is top notch ! Best of luck with all modifications and repairs !

[Roger Poirier]

I'm a believer... Nice thread. Excellent work so far. You might as well do it right the first time. Good luck. :)

[old66tiger]

Ridetech is a wise choice. Top quality parts and great support staff. Britt and Bret are always there to answer questions and they are continuously testing their parts. I want to get their rear coil over and the front sway bar, but I am broke with my conversion.

I have talked with DSE on a few things and the level of customer support is no where near as good as Ridetech. Besides, DSE coil over setup is a hybrid deal and those things ride ROUGH in comparison to the Ridetech stuff.

[MMcMasters]

Ridetech is a wise choice. Top quality parts and great support staff. Britt and Bret are always there to answer questions and they are continuously testing their parts.

I think so too, I can't wait to start on the chassis.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

The stars finally aligned and something went right today. I called to order my mini tub frame kit, larger inner wheel houses and boxing plates from ABC Performance and Tony let me know he was having a one day only sale (Cyber Monday) and I got 15% off of my entire order. Saved quite a bit of money which pretty much made my day :)

Mike

[64G-lark]

Nice looking car Mike. Tom F. is a great guy and has helped me a lot. When you get ready to do engine mounts, headers and oil pan I have figured out a combination that works well for A-bodies. I will be watching along.

[Yelcamino]

Mike,

I have the VHX gauges in my C10 with a 4L80. I haven't had it on the road yet, but Dakota told me the same thing, I only need the two wires (it's also in the instruction manual). Once I actually drive it down the road, I'll let you know if it works.


Thank you Herb, I appreciate it.

Mike

Mike,

FYI... I test drove my C10 last weekend and the speedo did not work. I'm going to double check the wires, maybe I missed something. If the wiring looks right and still doesn't work, I'll probably get Dakota's GPS interface (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-gps-50-1) and be done with it.

[MMcMasters]

Mike,

FYI... I test drove my C10 last weekend and the speedo did not work. I'm going to double check the wires, maybe I missed something. If the wiring looks right and still doesn't work, I'll probably get Dakota's GPS interface (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-gps-50-1) and be done with it.


Man that is disappointing Herb, I appreciate you keeping me up to date. The old truck is sure looking cool !!!

[tommycomfort]

Mike,

FYI... I test drove my C10 last weekend and the speedo did not work. I'm going to double check the wires, maybe I missed something. If the wiring looks right and still doesn't work, I'll probably get Dakota's GPS interface (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-gps-50-1) and be done with it.

We're using the VHX stuff in both the wagon and 66 with electric signal T-56s and after getting the pulse programmed right they both work great. Sam is our wiring and Dakota Digital programming expert. He's also the one that calls for tech help when we're both scratching our heads...

[MMcMasters]

Last night I took care of a problem area that wasn't discovered until I removed all of the tar paper from the interior floors. I couldn't see the problem from underneath because it was located right over the top of the floor brace which runs under the rear seat at the body mount. At some point a previous owner had filled this area with a large amount of silicone to seal the rust hole up.It baffles me that someone would do this but it's fixed now. Here is a picture of what I removed from the hole and a picture of my repair.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zps4eb54f2b-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4eb54f2b.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/8ed2e095534f416bb210595b0cf60e19_zpsc4cd-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8ed2e095-534f-416b-b210-595b0cf60e19_zpsc4cd84f9.jpg.html)

My order from ABC is scheduled to be here tomorrow so I plan on to start installing the new tubs this weekend. I'm a little nervous to cut out good wheelhouses but being able to stuff a 335 tire in there will be worth the effort. This will probably end up being a couple weekend job for me because I have never done it. Although it seems pretty straightforward, I'm still pretty nervous.

[Auto Rod Technologies]

Nice project,, the work looks pretty good so far..

I don't personally do the wiring in my shop, but we have done a few American Auto Wire kits now, and they guys in the shop seem to really like those kits. So we have stuck to them.. You may have to do a little wiring you're self but it's pretty basic stuff in comparison to other kits we have used.

[Yelcamino]

Man that is disappointing Herb, I appreciate you keeping me up to date. The old truck is sure looking cool !!!

Yeah I was a little bummed but I'll get over it... the GPS unit will arrive today! :) and thanks, the truck is turning out to be a fun driver!

[Yelcamino]

We're using the VHX stuff in both the wagon and 66 with electric signal T-56s and after getting the pulse programmed right they both work great. Sam is our wiring and Dakota Digital programming expert. He's also the one that calls for tech help when we're both scratching our heads...

Tom, my Chevelle and El Camino have older Dakota dashes and the speedos work off the TKO signal generators. For some reason the VHX doesn't see the 4L80 signal. Since it only needs two wires and polarity isn't an issue, it should work but it doesn't.

Ok, back to Mike's thread...

[MMcMasters]

Well I started on my mini tub yesterday and I made fairly good progress but uncovered yet more rust under the rear most body mount. Looks like the trunk pan or at least a portion is getting replaced.

My goal today was to make this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/ee158be2720f484a878b7f4dacedba1e_zps05e5-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/ee158be2-720f-484a-878b-7f4dacedba1e_zps05e56e89.jpg.html)

Fit in here :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/c6b55e89ba79447abdd9c9fb13ed527e_zps845e-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/c6b55e89-ba79-447a-bdd9-c9fb13ed527e_zps845e919a.jpg.html)

I spent more time than I care to think about drilling spot welds and separating the original inner wheel house. Then it was cut, fit repeat the rest of the afternoon. I didn't want to cut too much so I took my time. By the end of the day, the new tub fits very good.

These tubs aren't as intrusive into the back seat area as I thought they would be.
I did have to cut the seat back brace where it attached to the old tub but it was pretty easy. It's in place now with clecos and clamps and ready to be welded in. I'm out of weld through primer or I would have had most of it finished today.

I'm sure the other side will be easier since today I was pretty much flying by the seat of my pants on this first side. I have never done this so today was all trial and error and learning as I go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/23721a3dd6d2499a9bf3e1a4d3bcce10_zps4589-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/23721a3d-d6d2-499a-9bf3-e1a4d3bcce10_zps45897d2a.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/033c775eff63487780f5d799f5379882_zps55de-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/033c775e-ff63-4877-80f5-d799f5379882_zps55de1de0.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/379418556d5240f0b09902c71a2338b2_zps02fc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/37941855-6d52-40f0-b099-02c71a2338b2_zps02fc242d.jpg.html)

Sorry about the picture quality, my son took these with his phone.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I mentioned earlier about finding rust under the body mount. I had stripped the bottoms of the floors and the trunk pan looked pretty good. Of course I couldn't see what was hiding under the body mount. After removing the mount and finding so much rust, I couldn't believe it didn't show from inside of the trunk.


Well I soon found out why. The inside of the trunk was coated in GM spatter paint and looked to be in great shape. Well the spatter paint was hiding the fact that someone had hidden all of the rust with a layer of fiberglass. I pulled up a bunch of it, just came out in large strips so I'm sure there is more. I'm just going to plan on putting a new trunk floor in and call it a day.


Everytime I think I'm close to being done with the floors, something else pops up. It's all good though. At the least, I will be confident the car will now be solid and good for years to come.


Mike

[Yelcamino]

Mike, one last FYI on the speedo... I got the GPS unit installed over the weekend and it works great! In addition to providing speed, it has a compass, altimeter, and it updates the clock.

[analyte]

I mentioned earlier about finding rust under the body mount. I had stripped the bottoms of the floors and the trunk pan looked pretty good. Of course I couldn't see what was hiding under the body mount. After removing the mount and finding so much rust, I couldn't believe it didn't show from inside of the trunk.


Well I soon found out why. The inside of the trunk was coated in GM spatter paint and looked to be in great shape. Well the spatter paint was hiding the fact that someone had hidden all of the rust with a layer of fiberglass. I pulled up a bunch of it, just came out in large strips so I'm sure there is more. I'm just going to plan on putting a new trunk floor in and call it a day.


Everytime I think I'm close to being done with the floors, something else pops up. It's all good though. At the least, I will be confident the car will now be solid and good for years to come.


Mike

Our Chevelles must have traveled through the same shop, lots of fiberglass on my trunk pan as well. As stated, when you're done you'll know it's right.

Nice work!!

Kerry

[MMcMasters]

Mike, one last FYI on the speedo... I got the GPS unit installed over the weekend and it works great! In addition to providing speed, it has a compass, altimeter, and it updates the clock.

That's good news!

[MMcMasters]

Our Chevelles must have traveled through the same shop, lots of fiberglass on my trunk pan as well. As stated, when you're done you'll know it's right.

Nice work!!

Kerry

Amazing what some people do..Why not just fix the problem instead of hiding it

[csouth]

I mentioned earlier about finding rust under the body mount. I had stripped the bottoms of the floors and the trunk pan looked pretty good. Of course I couldn't see what was hiding under the body mount. After removing the mount and finding so much rust, I couldn't believe it didn't show from inside of the trunk.


Well I soon found out why. The inside of the trunk was coated in GM spatter paint and looked to be in great shape. Well the spatter paint was hiding the fact that someone had hidden all of the rust with a layer of fiberglass. I pulled up a bunch of it, just came out in large strips so I'm sure there is more. I'm just going to plan on putting a new trunk floor in and call it a day.


Everytime I think I'm close to being done with the floors, something else pops up. It's all good though. At the least, I will be confident the car will now be solid and good for years to come.


Mike

My front floor pans were the same way, probably from a window leak because the door seals were bad. Since the floors were rusting from the inside/out, I didn't see it when I bought the car and looked at the underside. When I removed the carpet at the end of the summer, it showed its ugly head under the foam...

Keep up the good work, its coming along nicely.

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Chris, I appreciate the encouragement.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

Nice looking car Mike. Tom F. is a great guy and has helped me a lot. When you get ready to do engine mounts, headers and oil pan I have figured out a combination that works well for A-bodies. I will be watching along.

I'm sorry I missed your post Mark..I would appreciate anything you want to share about mounts, headers and a pan. I probably won't be at that point until after the first of the year, but I would love to talk to you about it and exchange some information.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I was able to get out in the shop for a few hours today and started welding up the driver's side wheel house, should have it finished tomorrow night. I'm hoping the passenger side goes quicker now that I have a little better idea of what i'm doing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zps0f5b7eda-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0f5b7eda.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I got the driver's side tub finished today, It's not the prettiest job but the satisfaction is that I did it myself..I work pretty cheap:)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zpse1ff43d8-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse1ff43d8.jpg.html)

Now on to the passenger side. I got the inner tub removed before football started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zps4447e8fd-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4447e8fd.jpg.html)

Mike

[tommycomfort]

Very excellent!

[MMcMasters]

Very excellent!

Thanks Tom! Your rotisserie has been a life saver..I will never restore a car again without one

[analyte]

Nice work, definitely a winter upgrade at some point for me.

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Kerry! I have been following along with your build, Has to be exciting finally getting some color on it!!!

[analyte]

Thanks Kerry! I have been following along with your build, Has to be exciting finally getting some color on it!!!

Definitely exciting. My painter gave me a peek to verify we liked the color choice since it was yellow!! He believes it will look good, but it pops in the light.

[Yelcamino]

Looking good Mike! After watching you and Tom do this, I'm looking forward to doing the same with my Chevelle.

[MMcMasters]

Looking good Mike! After watching you and Tom do this, I'm looking forward to doing the same with my Chevelle.

Thanks Herb!!

[MMcMasters]

I know this is a boring thread but I guess progress is progress. I got back to work on the chevelle today and was able to get the passenger tub fitted and welded in. Tomorrow I need to finish the braces and start on the trunk install. After finding the rust and the hidden fiberglass repair by the previous owner, I have decided to replace the entire trunk pan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zpse1342b51-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse1342b51.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zps09b59a41-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps09b59a41.jpg.html)

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I got the passenger side welded in today. Tomorrow I will finish the braces and start on the trunk pans.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps1573172d.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I'm sure everyone is sick of seeing wheel tub pictures but I finished the mini tub install today and I wanted to show one more:D Overall everything went together pretty smooth but it was a little more involved then I thought it would be. Not to mention all of the hidden stuff I found which caused a few headaches. I was very impressed with ABC's wheel houses, they fit the stock outers perfectly. I probably went about things different then someone who does this for a living but I did learn a lot. If I do another one down the road it will be so much easier the second time around.

I'm going to try to get out in the shop a few hours each night this week and then hit it hard next weekend and try to knock out the trunk pan install. I still have to do the frame notch yet and I have all of this nice Ride Tech stuff sitting on the shelf waiting to get installed. I'm very excited to get started on the chassis, it's another step closer to getting the body back on the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/12/image_zpsffe22d6e-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsffe22d6e.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I started on the trunk today. I cut everything out but the braces. I tacked in some vertical braces on the trunk shelf to insure everything stayed in place and I removed the braces as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps3daec927-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps3daec927.jpg.html)

This is what a good portion of the trunk looked like. Most of the drivers side had a layer of fiberglass covering rust.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps6592ecbf-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6592ecbf.jpg.html)

I was able to get the passenger side and the center pan fitted today. Hoping to get back on it this weekend and finish it up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps04566d1e-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps04566d1e.jpg.html)

Mike

[rixtrix1]

Moving right along. I hate it when people " micky mouse( not a misspell, no trademark infringement, lol)" a repair job then cover it with paint.

[MMcMasters]

I didn't get it completely done, still need to get the tank braces on but the trunk pan is done and welded in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps1c4d4797-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps1c4d4797.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zpsed83f5e3-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsed83f5e3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/ac92f3c37ea74f17b3a3a94476ec6878_zpscff2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/ac92f3c3-7ea7-4f17-b3a3-a94476ec6878_zpscff2a6a0.jpg.html)

Mike

[Motown 454]

Great Job! Its looking good.

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Wayne!

[MMcMasters]

Well I got called into work on Saturday but I was able to work all day today. I got the fuel tank braces done and the trunk and mini tub are officially done. It's masked off and ready for some etch primer/sealer. I know it didn't happen if there aren't pictures so here are a few:)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps2326bc6b-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2326bc6b.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps4369f7d4-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4369f7d4.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps0bd2967f-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0bd2967f.jpg.html)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps2e3c67cc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2e3c67cc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps4539379c-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4539379c.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps4583ffdb-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps4583ffdb.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zpse6eafc41-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse6eafc41.jpg.html)


Mike

[MMcMasters]

Well this weekend didn't quite go as planned. My son crashed his bike and broke his wrist Saturday morning. It was very warm Saturday but he managed to find some ice that had not melted yet. We spent most of Saturday in the emergency room. I was able to get the floors in sealer today in between football and waiting on my son hand and foot. He is taking full advantage of his injury, living on the couch like a king and has full control if the tv remote:)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/01/image_zps60fd80fb-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps60fd80fb.jpg.html)

Mike

[tommycomfort]

Bummer about the broken wrist! Sam did the same thing playing tennis while we were thrashing to get ready for OUSCI back in 2010. I made him turn wrenches with his other hand... ;-)

[rixtrix1]

Sorry about your son's wrist. Car is looking great. Nice job on the tubs and trunk pans!

[MMcMasters]

Thanks guys!

[MMcMasters]

One small update. Saturday I took my chassis to a friends body shop. I was able to find a printout with the factory frame dimensions and tolerances. The frame was square and everything looked good except the expected frame sag in the engine cradle.

This coming Saturday it will go on the frame machine and he said he can correct this issue with little effort. He said they have done several A Body frames with great results.

I'm really hoping to have it back Saturday afternoon so I can began the Frame notch. I'm at a stand still right now and I can't stand having nothing to do.

I also found a damaged LS2 aluminum block that I will use for mock up of engine mounts, trans cross member, headers etc... I have access to a set of bare 243 Cathedral port heads to mock up header fitment. I will be using square port LS3 heads when I build the engine for the car though. Can anyone tell me if exhaust port location is the same between the 243's and the LS3/L92 heads. I don't want to mock up with the older heads if they are different.

Thanks,

Mike

[rixtrix1]

Don't remember if I already asked this, but are you planning to box the frame's center section? No better time than now. Might want to gusset/box the frame's rear axle lower arm mounting points. The front lower rear a-arm boxes tend to pull off the frame too, especially if there is a lot of sag at the front crossmember. I started my mechanical career working in a frame shop in Scottsbluff, NE and we probably pulled one A-body crossmember a month while I worked there back in the '70's. Check all the welds as factory quality back then wasn't good.

[MMcMasters]

Ric,

I will be boxing the frame and welding up all of the factory seams. Great idea on gusseting the front a arm pick up points, I may add that to the list.

Mike

[rixtrix1]

Cool, Mike. I meant to box the rear axle lower arm pickup points and check the welds for cracks at the rear pickup points of the front lower arms, as headers don't leave much room for gusseting in the front. I edited my first post on this to be a lot more clear. Sorry to be confusing( or just confused, lol).

[analyte]

One small update. Saturday I took my chassis to a friends body shop. I was able to find a printout with the factory frame dimensions and tolerances. The frame was square and everything looked good except the expected frame sag in the engine cradle.

This coming Saturday it will go on the frame machine and he said he can correct this issue with little effort. He said they have done several A Body frames with great results.

I'm really hoping to have it back Saturday afternoon so I can began the Frame notch. I'm at a stand still right now and I can't stand having nothing to do.

I also found a damaged LS2 aluminum block that I will use for mock up of engine mounts, trans cross member, headers etc... I have access to a set of bare 243 Cathedral port heads to mock up header fitment. I will be using square port LS3 heads when I build the engine for the car though. Can anyone tell me if exhaust port location is the same between the 243's and the LS3/L92 heads. I don't want to mock up with the older heads if they are different.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,
There is no difference in the exhaust port location between an LS2 head and a LS3/L92 head. You're good to go.

Even better is when you're done with the 243 heads, they're worth a $3-400 when sold.

Kerry

[MMcMasters]

That's good to know Kerry, thank you!

Mike

[MMcMasters]

Today we put my chassis on the frame machine and corrected a little sag in the engine cradle. Other than that, it's square and in pretty good shape for it's age. I got it home and immediately started taking it apart.

When I bought the car last year, the previous owner had just put new Hotchkis lowering springs in the rear and new QA1 coil overs in the front but I'm not using them.

The frame is going to the media blaster this week and I hope to start on the ABC frame notch next weekend. I will document every step of this process so hopefully it may help someone in the future. I have searched high and low and I haven't had much luck finding a detailed description/documentation on a 66. ABC sends instructions but they aren't as detailed as I expected. They are probably fine for most of the population but I'm a few fries short of a happy meal:)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/photo1_zps4cc28eae-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/photo1_zps4cc28eae.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsp7xnntjh-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsp7xnntjh.jpg.html)

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I got back to work this weekend. Saturday morning I thought I would media blast the open channels on the frame "real quick". That turned into 4 hours of dealing with clogging due to my POS harbor freight pot blaster. I finally got it done though.

I'm following the ABC performance playbook for the rest of the frame mods. First thing I needed to do was make 6 adjustable legs that I can weld to the frame to allow me to get it to a workable level and square/ level everything up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpslgq8kfh8-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpslgq8kfh8.jpg.html)

Once I had all 6 legs welded on and gusseted, I leveled the frame front to back and side to side. I used 1/4" strap in the rear, 1" tubing at the c notch and I welded in 2" angle across the center of the frame rail to keeps things in place once I start cutting. The center body mounts should be 53" center to center. I got lucky I guess because mine were dead on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpss78mha76-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpss78mha76.jpg.html)

After dealing with the frame sag issue last week, I wanted a little extra piece of mind so I made a brace to put between the upper control arm mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsrp1n4v0q-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsrp1n4v0q.jpg.html)

The bottom of my center frame rails were pretty bent up from years of use and probably from being used as a jacking point. I took a piece of 2x2 square steel and cut a slot in it so I could use it as a lever to bend the rails back up into shape and fit the boxing plates. ABC's laser cut plates fit very well and needed only minimal trimming on one end. I got both sides tacked in a few hours.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpspx8j4dss-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpspx8j4dss.jpg.html)

The rest of the afternoon today I spent welding them in for good. I was patient and took a great deal of time welding them up to minimize heat and distortion. I used 2" stitch welds and moved around a lot. Once I was done I dressed all of the welds and gave them a nice radius. I am very happy with the results but not very happy it took me a whole weekend to get this done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpso5c4laes-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpso5c4laes.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsxdpftyum-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxdpftyum.jpg.html)

Mike

[Motown 454]

Nice job, the frame is looking good.

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Wayne!

[MMcMasters]

I took today off and made some good progress today. I started by welding in a reinforcement plate inside of the c notch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsqm0hvrpc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsqm0hvrpc.jpg.html)

Then I laid out my cut line. I used Dykem so I had a clear scribe line. I put tape on my line and used a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to make my cuts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsclbyavv2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsclbyavv2.jpg.html)

ABC provides a template to mark your front cut/bend lines to blend the new outer box plate to the front of the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zps3rmufuj2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps3rmufuj2.jpg.html)

Outer rail removed. You can see where I marked a new cut line just inside of my penetration line. This area gets removed and you weld the edge to the reinforcing plate I put in earlier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsyzw9jaqo-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsyzw9jaqo.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpscwexmhnc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpscwexmhnc.jpg.html)

New outer boxing plate fitted and tacked in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsjz3ugvds-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjz3ugvds.jpg.html)

Pie cut where the new box plate meets the rear frame rail.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsetcdc8np-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsetcdc8np.jpg.html)

All weld dressed to a nice radius. I'm going to start on the inner c notch tomorrow. All in all, I have 8 hours in this and maybe 2 more tomorrow to finish this side. Then I get to re load and do the other side:D

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsckrusfu2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsckrusfu2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpspn6wfdeh-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpspn6wfdeh.jpg.html)

Mike

[Thenovaguy]

Wow moving right along... You sure work fast. It would have taken me 8 hours to get brave enough to make the first cut. I'm thinking of doing the ABC kit so I am definitely following this build!

Subscribed

T.J.

[tommycomfort]

Amazing work as always! Kind of makes me want to get on Sam's frame sooner than later.

[MMcMasters]

I appreciate the kind words Tom!! I'm willing to come hang out and help when you do Sam's frame. I can sweep the shop, go pick up food or just generally get in the way:)

[MMcMasters]

Well I only got a couple hours in the shop today. In typical fashion for me, I waited until the last minute to get something for my better half for Valentines Day. I cut my shop day short, went and got her a few things and made reservations for dinner.


Here are a few pictures of what I got done this morning. First thing was removing the spring pocket and upper shock mount. Then I fit the new inner c channel and tacked it in.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsk5sp6rdd-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsk5sp6rdd.jpg.html)


When the spring pocket is removed, you measure 3 1/4" from the rear crossmember and make a cut line. This leaves the body mount which must be boxed in.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsucjzu3vn-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsucjzu3vn.jpg.html)


Next step is to weld in a reinforcement plate in the kick up just in front of the rear crossmember.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpss5k2fdbx-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpss5k2fdbx.jpg.html)


Once I dressed the welds on the kick up plate, I welded in this gusset at the kick up.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zps6lamcobg-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps6lamcobg.jpg.html)


Passenger side is done, now on to the drivers side. Now that I have a better idea of what I'm doing, the other side should go a little quicker. Here is the finished rail.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsjvyg0hxn-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjvyg0hxn.jpg.html)


Mike

[rixtrix1]

Moving right along, Mike, and looking very good! I back-halved and caged my Malibu to fit 14-32 tires years ago, so now I have to try to make it work on the street. Will probably be adding a few more tubing braces and the ABC plates to the frame rails. Don't know if I can afford wheels and tires big enough to fill up the rear wheel wells. Probably be doing some horse trading. I like your choice of suspension, but don't think it will work for me.

Your pics could be used in an instructional manual for ABC!

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Ric..I hope the pictures are some help to someone down the road as others posts and pictures have helped me on other projects.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I finished the driver's side yesterday and it went very good. I didn't run into any issues at all. I still need to dress the welds on this side but I ran out of 7" discs so I'll take care of that this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpstnv49ruc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpstnv49ruc.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zps1n3fp5k3-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps1n3fp5k3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsmbm2n6ei-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmbm2n6ei.jpg.html)

Next up today was the upper shock mounts. Of all of the steps this was the one that I was a little unsure of because the directions were not very clear. I took a chance today and sent Tony at ABC a text asking for some clarification. I was shocked that he called me right away and explained it. Thats unheard of customer service, on a Sunday no less. Thanks Tony!!

After Tony explained how simple it is, I had them on in short order. You measure from the rear of rear crossmember to the rear edge of the new shock bracket and set it at 13 1/2". The back corner is flush with the top of the frame rail. Then use an angle finder and set the bracket at 8* towards the front of the car. I tacked both in and referenced all of my measurements that I wrote down prior to cutting off the original upper shock mount and it was perfect.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsudgbjlii-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsudgbjlii.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsxs5ecosg-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxs5ecosg.jpg.html)

I mocked up the rear end, and installed the new RideTech lower shock brackets, control arms and shocks. Everything went together like it's supposed too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsvsmupfvx-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsvsmupfvx.jpg.html)

I havn't welded in the crossmember between the upper shock mounts yet. The mounts are just tacked in for now. The plan for tomorrow is to remove all of the bracing and cut the supports stands down to frame height so I can test fit the body. This will also allow me to relocate the #6 body mount that was removed during the mini tub. I'm really starting to get excited now!! This thing might actually start looking like a car again.

Mike

[tommycomfort]

Awesome progress Mike. Looks like the upper coilover mounts have changed since I did our 66 and bought the kit to do Sam's. I like it!

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Right on!

[MMcMasters]

I had a long list of things I wanted to accomplish today and I was able to get almost all of it done. I removed all of the bracing from the frame and cut my support stands down to the top edge of the frame rail.

I took the body off of the rotisserie and test fit the frame. I wanted to verify the new upper shock brackets would clear the floor pan and I also wanted to re-install the #6 body mounts to the trunk pan and the #6 frame mounts as well.

The shock mounts cleared and the body mounts went on with just a little trimming. I put the body back on the rotisserie and got back to work on the frame. I welded the brackets in permanently and welded in the shock crossmember.

I use my I-Phone for all of my pictures and for whatever reason my phone kept locking up when I tried to use the camera. I was only able to take one picture today. It's pretty boring stuff but here is the only picture for today.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsaqtvgxiq-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsaqtvgxiq.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I'm waiting on a few pieces which hopefully will ship this Monday so I have been keeping busy with mocking up the suspension and knocking some little things off my punch list. The upper shock hole had to be drilled out to 3/4" to accept the shock bushing on the new coilovers. The Ride Tech muscle bar needed a few things too.

I had to drill out the stock sway bar mount holes to 5/16 and tap them to 3/8. The muscle bar bracket is bolted up and I used it as a guide to drill and tap a third hole. The bar is pretty cool and very stout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zps7n2nrbpt-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps7n2nrbpt.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsejnrpysa-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsejnrpysa.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpspw6tvdre-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpspw6tvdre.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsxushlhh1-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxushlhh1.jpg.html)

I also got the #6 body mounts finish welded to the floor and got the trunk seam sealed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsw3s4ymva-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsw3s4ymva.jpg.html)

Modest progress but I guess thats better than nothing. I hoping the Fed Ex guy brings me some more stuff to work on this week.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

A few things showed up today, thank you Jody Haag "Jody's Transmissions" for the new Transmission! I'm sure it will be worth the wait.

I should get the mock up block in this weekend to verify oil pan fitment, tie rod clearance and get a trans cross member welded up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsxldyh555-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxldyh555.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsrhmq6msb-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsrhmq6msb.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zps8mlnt1cn-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps8mlnt1cn.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsqe56s6mg-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsqe56s6mg.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsguzckqye-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsguzckqye.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpswlf1p6hi-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpswlf1p6hi.jpg.html)

Mike

[andrewb70]

Mike,

Great work.

I suggest you get that bellhousing mounted to your block asap (if you have one) to check alignment. Bob's had a rough time with a QT bell recently. Measure the dowel holes in the bell and report what you find.

Also remember, you need to get that engine down as low as possible in the front crossmember. You'll definitely need to notch that pan to make that happen and still clear the inner tie rods.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Andrew,

I won't have the block I plan to build for a while, I'm using a damaged Block for mockup. Unless you think this might buff out:)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/image_zpsovsfiyyy-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsovsfiyyy.jpg.html)

I know how important both parallel and concentric alignment are for a long lasting, smooth shifting transmission. I will definitely report when I get to that point.

Mike

[andrewb70]

...

I know how important both parallel and concentric alignment are for a long lasting, smooth shifting transmission. I will definitely report when I get to that point.

Mike

Mike,

I didn't mean to imply that you don't, but Bob (I forget his name here...he has a 67 GTO LS swap in progress) got a QT bell and the holes for the dowels were oversized. At least measure those now, so you can address it now.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Mike,

I didn't mean to imply that you don't, but Bob (I forget his name here...he has a 67 GTO LS swap in progress) got a QT bell and the holes for the dowels were oversized. At least measure those now, so you can address it now.

Andrew

Andrew,

No problem, I didn't think your were implying anything man and I really appreciate the heads up. I will go out and check the dowel holes right now. I think I know who you are talking about, "OldTiger" I think is his user name. Was he able to send the bell back? How did he address this?

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I just did a quick measurement on the dowel holes in the new bell and got .621 The dowels in the block measured .618.... Everything looks ok as far as this goes but I will definitely need longer dowels since the new bell has a block saver plate.

Mike

[andrewb70]

Andrew,

No problem, I didn't think your were implying anything man and I really appreciate the heads up. I will go out and check the dowel holes right now. I think I know who you are talking about, "OldTiger" I think is his user name. Was he able to send the bell back? How did he address this?

Mike

That's him. QT was very responsive and a resolution is forthcoming. But my take is that if you can spot a potential issue sooner than later, you're better off for it.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

I just did a quick measurement on the dowel holes in the new bell and got .621 The dowels in the block measured .618.... Everything looks ok as far as this goes but I will definitely need longer dowels since the new bell has a block saver plate.

Mike

That's perfect. Bob's bell had dowel pin holes that .630" and he was going nuts with inconsistent alignment measurements.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Thanks for the heads up anyway, I appreciate it

[andrewb70]

Thanks for the heads up anyway, I appreciate it

No worries. That's what this place is for: sharing information. Glad the bellhousing checked out! Hopefully Bob can get a new one soon and he can start getting his GTO together.

Andrew

[rixtrix1]

Interesting looking tranny. I went to Legend's website and there isn't much there other than some hype. Not a lot of specifics as to ratios, TQ capacity, dimensions, etc. The pics do show a lot of different case and shifter configurations, though. Is it competitively priced with the TKO tranny's? How about for size; are you going to need to do some tunnel work, or is it supposed fit an A-body tunnel? Sorry for all the questions, but I've never heard of it before. Thanks. ( I think you could adapt a dry sump setup to your block.) Never mind, went to Jody's webpage and it covers most of the questions. I won't bother him until I'm ready to buy.

[MMcMasters]

Ric,

Jody has great customer service if you decide to go that way. I will know more this weekend but by all accounts there are no tunnel mods to use the Legend.

[rixtrix1]

Thanks, Mike. I'll be waiting to see what you find out. I know a TKO500 fits, but I don't know about the durability.

[andrewb70]

Thanks, Mike. I'll be waiting to see what you find out. I know a TKO500 fits, but I don't know about the durability.

The Legend trans fits better and it has better technology than the TKO 500/600. The TKO transmission are based on old truck transmission designs and have a heavy rotating mass, with old style brass synchronizers. This makes for a lazy shifting transmission that doesn't fit very well in GM A-bodies.

Andrew

[rixtrix1]

The Legend trans fits better and it has better technology than the TKO 500/600. The TKO transmission are based on old truck transmission designs and have a heavy rotating mass, with old style brass synchronizers. This makes for a lazy shifting transmission that doesn't fit very well in GM A-bodies.

Andrew

Thanks, Andrew. Do you know about cost? From the pics, it appears to have a standard Chevy bolt pattern. I already have a bellhousing, old school, that I know is parallel and has been dead on with two different engines. Haven't tried it on an LS yet. I had to sell my '10 Camaro motor to cover some hospital expenses before I had a chance to check it. Who makes the best bracket for an F-body clutch master?

[andrewb70]

Thanks, Andrew. Do you know about cost? From the pics, it appears to have a standard Chevy bolt pattern. I already have a bellhousing, old school, that I know is parallel and has been dead on with two different engines. Haven't tried it on an LS yet. I had to sell my '10 Camaro motor to cover some hospital expenses before I had a chance to check it. Who makes the best bracket for an F-body clutch master?

Ric,

Mike can probably address the cost issue better than I, since he just bought one, but it appears that the trans is about $4K.

As for the MC, I personally would not run a F-body MC. They have a relatively short throw and various brackets that are available don't give the proper geometry.

I used a MC mount from Keisler, which is very well designed. Since Keisler is no longer, I suspect that Silver Sport offers the same bracket. The bracket uses a Wilwood "grilling" style MC that has 1.4" of travel, which offers a lot of adjustment.

The rest of the components you'll have to source yourself, depending on the clutch that you plan to use. My particular combination has been working well but is not for everyone. I use the Keisler MC mount with a .700 bore MC, Quarter Master TOB, repro 621 bellhousing, Richmond 6 speed, all mounted to a LS engine with a LS1 clutch.

As you can tell, I like picking my own components and don't generally go for the "kit" approach.

Mike, sorry for hijacking your build thread.

Ric, we can take this offline if you like.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Ric,

Mike can probably address the cost issue better than I, since he just bought one, but it appears that the trans is about $4K.

As for the MC, I personally would not run a F-body MC. They have a relatively short throw and various brackets that are available don't give the proper geometry.

I used a MC mount from Keisler, which is very well designed. Since Keisler is no longer, I suspect that Silver Sport offers the same bracket. The bracket uses a Wilwood "grilling" style MC that has 1.4" of travel, which offers a lot of adjustment.

The rest of the components you'll have to source yourself, depending on the clutch that you plan to use. My particular combination has been working well but is not for everyone. I use the Keisler MC mount with a .700 bore MC, Quarter Master TOB, repro 621 bellhousing, Richmond 6 speed, all mounted to a LS engine with a LS1 clutch.

As you can tell, I like picking my own components and don't generally go for the "kit" approach.

Mike, sorry for hijacking your build thread.

Ric, we can take this offline if you like.

Andrew

Not a problem at all Andrew, maybe I can learn something. Trans was just under $4000.. Ric, I ended up going with Bowler for my master bracket. I'm running a Willwood .700 bore master, a Tilton 6000 hyd T/O bearing and a stock LS7 clutch and flywheel. Here are all the part numbers for anyone that is interested.

RM6036 Quick Time bell housing
GM#12571611 Flywheel
GM#24255748 Pressure Plate/ Clutch
GM#12557583 Pilot Bushing
Tilton 6000 60-610 T/O bearing
Wilwood .700 bore "Grilling" Master Cylinder
Bowler master cylinder bracket


Mike

[64G-lark]

Looking really good Mike. I hope to do the mini tubs one day.

[andrewb70]

Not a problem at all Andrew, maybe I can learn something. Trans was just under $4000.. Ric, I ended up going with Bowler for my master bracket. I'm running a Willwood .700 bore master, a Tilton 6000 hyd T/O bearing and a stock LS7 clutch and flywheel. Here are all the part numbers for anyone that is interested.

RM6036 Quick Time bell housing
GM#12571611 Flywheel
GM#24255748 Pressure Plate/ Clutch
GM#12557583 Pilot Bushing
Tilton 6000 60-610 T/O bearing
Wilwood .700 bore "Grilling" Master Cylinder
Bowler master cylinder bracket


Mike

Mike,

That is very close to what I have. I like the new Tilton 6000 TOB.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

I mocked up the engine (block) and transmission yesterday. The body went on and off the frame several times during this process. I firmly believe the Legend trans can be installed without any floor modifications, especially at stock ride height. With that being said and this being a pro touring post, I believe most of us here have lowered our cars quite a bit compared to factory.

Lowering our cars adds to a problem that we all deal with and thats drive line angles. My stock tunnel looked like swiss cheese from holes being drilled into it over the years for aftermarket shifters, cables and who knows what else. I decided to go ahead and cut the tunnel and allow myself that little extra room to raise the trans and optimize my working angles down the road.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zps9mxwl1pi-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps9mxwl1pi.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsv6xwmtnv-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsv6xwmtnv.jpg.html)

Next I installed the stock steering linkage to check pan clearance. I really wanted to mock up with the new Moog stuff but my order didn't show up friday so I had to use the original stuff for now. It's my fault but I try to order parts as I think I need them and it bites me in the ass every now and then. I know the Moog ends are a little bulkier than the factory so I will see how much that changes things.

The AGR box is just under 3 turns lock to lock without the linkage connected. Once everything is bolted together, I have right at 1 3/4 turns from steering stop to steering stop. The inner tie rods are close but I still have clearance at the pan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsl307zdi3-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsl307zdi3.jpg.html)

This is turned all the way to the left and up against the steering stop.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsl4xrbiuo-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsl4xrbiuo.jpg.html)

This is turned all the way to the right and up against the steering stop.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsjaeuupbq-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjaeuupbq.jpg.html)

My concern is that the stock steering arm stops may not be giving me enough steering travel, we will see I guess. I'm still going to notch the pan as extra insurance.

The crossmember is just tacked together right now so I'm going to go out and finish weld that today. When my Moog order comes in I want to mock that stuff up and check fitment before blowing it all apart for powder coat.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

I meant to put what parts I used just in case someone reads this in the future and cares what I used:D

Dirty Dingo Sliders at the rear most setting
Energy engine mounts (short/wide)
Stock SBC frame stands
AutoKraft pan
Quick Time Rm6036 bell housing

Im not sure what headers I will be using yet. I have an idea of what will fit but thats never guaranteed.

Mike

[analyte]

Mike,
What angle is your tailshaft at in the pictures you showed? I beleive I was at 3.5 degs when I got everything back together.

Kerry

[MMcMasters]

Mike,
What angle is your tailshaft at in the pictures you showed? I beleive I was at 3.5 degs when I got everything back together.

Kerry

Kerry,

It was at 3* using a level frame rail as a zero but I checked it for a reference only. The measurements that matter are the working angles of both ends of the driveshaft but I can't check those until I have the car together and at ride height.

Mike

[rixtrix1]

Sorry, Mike, for hijacking your thread with Andrew. Thanks for your input, too. Hope everything continues to progress well for you. You've had a tremendous amount of work get done in such a quick timeframe.

[MMcMasters]

Sorry, Mike, for hijacking your thread with Andrew. Thanks for your input, too. Hope everything continues to progress well for you. You've had a tremendous amount of work get done in such a quick timeframe.


Ric,

I didn't think you hijacked anything man, I enjoy the conversation. Please jump in anytime!

Mike

[andrewb70]

Kerry,

It was at 3* using a level frame rail as a zero but I checked it for a reference only. The measurements that matter are the working angles of both ends of the driveshaft but I can't check those until I have the car together and at ride height.

Mike

Mike,

I think if you get the engine level with the frame, you'll be better off. This may not be possible, but if I was to do all this over again, that is what I would shoot for. The limiting factor might be the trans tunnel where the slip yoke comes out of the trans.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

I have been pretty lazy about posting updates lately but work has been getting done. After mocking up the engine/trans I realized it would make my life much easier if I cut the tunnel and raised the transmission a few inches.

After that I made a pattern out of some construction paper and transferred it to some 16ga and formed my own redneck version of a trans hump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpscqaadlz1-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpscqaadlz1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsvtgxqwgc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsvtgxqwgc.jpg.html)

I also called in the big gun (my 12 year old son) to help finish weld the crossmember mounts and trans mount pad. I'm a very proud dad and can't believe how talented he is at such a young age.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpssnpaeifz-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpssnpaeifz.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsgipfgl75-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsgipfgl75.jpg.html)

After this we blew everything apart and the frame is currently getting powder coated. The plan for this week is to finish seam sealing the floors and get the bottom of the car finished and painted.

I have everything for the chassis but I still need to decide what I'm going to use for a rear end. I'm strongly considering selling the 12 bolt and buying a new Moser housing with the big ford ends or maybe even a floater set up. I really don't like the idea of running C clips. I figured what it will cost to have the stock housing fixtured, tubes welded 360* and the ford ends installed and it's not much more to just start with a new housing.

Isn't that how it always is though, just a few more dollars....

[64G-lark]

Hey Mike looking good. Tell your son that's some great looking welding! Nice to keep them involved in the projects. My oldest is a better welder than me.

[analyte]

Wow, your son has impressive skills!!

Mind if I borrow him for a few days?? :)_

[MMcMasters]

He's all yours but I have to warn you that he will eat you out of house and home. I can't believe how much he eats for a little ****:)

[Motown 454]

He did a nice job!

[rixtrix1]

I meant to put what parts I used just in case someone reads this in the future and cares what I used:D

Dirty Dingo Sliders at the rear most setting
Energy engine mounts (short/wide)
Stock SBC frame stands
AutoKraft pan
Quick Time Rm6036 bell housing

Im not sure what headers I will be using yet. I have an idea of what will fit but thats never guaranteed.

Mike

With the mounts that far back, how much firewall clearance do you have, especially since you don't have any heads on the block. That seems to be the biggest problem I've encountered with LS swaps. A friend put an LS! in his '70 Chevelle using SB stands and DD sliders. The heads were very tight, but a stock Camaro pan cleared the Xmember by about a 1/4" .

[rixtrix1]

"Isn't that how it always is though, just a few more dollars...."

Don''t you know it, ha?!

[Yelcamino]

Isn't that how it always is though, just a few more dollars....

Lol! That and the good old.. as long I'm in here I may as well fix this too so I don't have to come back to it later!

[MMcMasters]

Ric,

I didn't take any pics with the heads on but I did test fit a set from my buddy. I have 1" from the back of the head to the firewall.

Mike

[MMcMasters]

Lol! That and the good old.. as long I'm in here I may as well fix this too so I don't have to come back to it later!

Well Herb, I'm glad I'm not the only one that does that:)

[MMcMasters]

I have tried to get out in the shop at least an hour a night this week and I was able to get a few things done. I got the floor seam sealed. I decided to use spray on bed liner for the underside of the floor boards. It's not as good as Lizard Skin but I have used it in the past and have been very happy with the results.

I want to get the dash out this weekend and get the heater box out of the way so I can began smoothing the firewall and mocking up the Vintage Air. We will be out of town on Sunday so I don't know how far I will get this weekend.

I also picked up the frame from powder coat this morning. They did a beautiful job as always. I'm more than a little excited with the thought of assembling the chassis for hopefully the final time.

I apologize for the crappy cell phone pictures. I don't know why they are so blurry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zpsjutn4oxi-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjutn4oxi.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/image_zps2dnwj67e-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps2dnwj67e.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

It seems like I have not posted an update forever. It isn't that I have lost motivation, I have been dealing with a lot of back orders. Parts have slowly starting showing up to the point that I can start making some forward progress again.

This week my new Moser 12 bolt arrived. It is a very nice piece and well worth the money. I ordered it with a Tru Trac, 33 spline axles and big Ford bearings. i also had them leave the spring cups off since I won't need them with the coil overs and the upper spring pockets have been permanently removed.

I did notice one problem though. The Moser lower control arm brackets are different than the factory brackets. This creates a small problem in that the Ride Tech lower coil over brackets are made to work with the factory control arm mounts. A quick call to Tom Farrington to order the correct lower shock mounts hopefully solved this problem.

I ordered the rear end unpainted because I need to Tig the brake hose brackets and brake line clips on. Once I get that done I will pull it back apart and get it ready for paint. Here are a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpshiurkek5-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshiurkek5.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpszpicl5yk-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpszpicl5yk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsh0cbr5qe-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsh0cbr5qe.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpslzqk7kzt-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpslzqk7kzt.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpswlfnmgsb-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpswlfnmgsb.jpg.html)

[andrewb70]

Looks like the upper arm mounts on the Moser are raised quite a bit.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Yes they are Andrew

[DryftKult]

That axle housing is so beautiful, I'd be clear coating it :P

[MMcMasters]

That axle housing is so beautiful, I'd be clear coating it :P


Hahaha, yeah they do nice work don't they

[pist0lpete]

Hate to point it out almost but I see another potential issue with your Moser housing. Looks like it has the raised upper control arm "ears". These are more ideal for getting an instant center higher for drag racing purposes. On the bright side your forward bite should be great but not sure how it will affect the handling.

[MMcMasters]

Hate to point it out almost but I see another potential issue with your Moser housing. Looks like it has the raised upper control arm "ears". These are more ideal for getting an instant center higher for drag racing purposes. On the bright side your forward bite should be great but not sure how it will affect the handling.

That's an interesting observation and I really don't have an answer for it. I'm not sure how it will affect the handling. I will find out soon enough and report back:)

Mike

[MMcMasters]

My lower shock brackets won't be here until Monday so I used today to mock up the rear brakes. The Kore 3 brackets allow you to mount the caliper in front of the axle or behind the axle. I thought it looked better mounted in front of the axle but I think mounting them behind will work better with the emergency brake cable routing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpshlzpbtpr-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshlzpbtpr.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zps3nmofdf2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps3nmofdf2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsrokj4xch-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsrokj4xch.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zps1glbwfeu-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps1glbwfeu.jpg.html)

I love the look of these brakes and Tobin's components are very nice. The Z06 rotors though are very HEAVY!!! I'm not decided yet if I'm going to run them now and change to a lighter 2 piece rotor down the road or just change them now.

Mike

[Motown 454]

Tobin's brake parts are very nice pieces and those Z06 calipers look sweet on there.

[analyte]

The Z06 brakes are nice pieces indeed!! I also can't say enough good things about Tobin as well.

[MMcMasters]

I ended up making a simple bracket for my rear flex hose out of some scrap material I had. Nothing special but it's functional. I made a paper template and traced it onto some 1/8" plate, cut it out with the bandsaw and gave it a spray can paint job:)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsxfomupya-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxfomupya.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpszrinnpd2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpszrinnpd2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsjgfzw2db-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjgfzw2db.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I finished welding my brake line brackets on and was able to paint the rear end last night. It's bolted back in for the last time. I used Nickel/Copper brake line for the first time today making my rear axle lines. This stuff is a dream to bend and flare. I can't believe it took me this long to give it a try.

I only bought 6' because I wasn't sure if I would like it or not. I'm going to buy a roll on Monday to make my lines from the rear crossmember up to the pp valve/ master cylinder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsmkgbk0k7-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmkgbk0k7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpshyjfpl3n-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshyjfpl3n.jpg.html)

All other manufacturers should copy this bottle design. No mess and easy to completely drain the bottle. I know I'm easily amused but I thought it was cool :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsdewgi3sw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsdewgi3sw.jpg.html)

[analyte]

I finished welding my brake line brackets on and was able to paint the rear end last night. It's bolted back in for the last time. I used Nickel/Copper brake line for the first time today making my rear axle lines. This stuff is a dream to bend and flare. I can't believe it took me this long to give it a try.

I only bought 6' because I wasn't sure if I would like it or not. I'm going to buy a roll on Monday to make my lines from the rear crossmember up to the pp valve/ master cylinder.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsmkgbk0k7-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmkgbk0k7.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpshyjfpl3n-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshyjfpl3n.jpg.html)

All other manufacturers should copy this bottle design. No mess and easy to completely drain the bottle. I know I'm easily amused but I thought it was cool :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsdewgi3sw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsdewgi3sw.jpg.html)

Brake lines look great. I agree with you on the Nicop, it couldn't be easier.

[Yelcamino]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpshyjfpl3n-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshyjfpl3n.jpg.html)



Hi Mike,

Not sure if the coilovers are mounted to stay or just mock up... If your brackets allow, I suggest you mount them upside down, which will make it easier to reach the rebound knob once the car is together.

[MMcMasters]

Thanks Herb, I will try it both ways. My only concern with mounting them upside down would be getting to the spanner nut to adjust ride height once the body is on. I will give it a shot though.

Mike

[Che70velle]

Just read through your thread, and your car is coming back together nicely.
Great choice of components, and the young man's welding skills are impressive.

[MMcMasters]

I really have not had time to do much in the shop lately. No excuses, just busy I guess. My roll of brake line came in this week so I tried to make some headway on that today. Plus I get to use some tools that I only get to pull out once or twice a year and tell myself that they were once worth the money I spent on them.

I ran my brake line on the upper part of the frame rail because I want to run my fuel line on the driver's side as well and there isn't enough room for both to get by the transmission cross member mounts. The LS3's inlet on the fuel rail is on the drivers side so this will be a cleaner approach I think. Here are a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpssh9whiuo-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpssh9whiuo.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsr7ewz9db-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsr7ewz9db.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsj7phukji-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsj7phukji.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsmgak4fml-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmgak4fml.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsjp7blnnv-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjp7blnnv.jpg.html)

Fuel line is next. I can get the nickel/copper and aluminum in 3/8". What are you guys having the best luck with?

Mike

[andrewb70]

Mike,

The 3/8" fuel line will work great but you have to make sure to plan the bend radii. Being a bigger line it will need more gentle bents.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Mike,

The 3/8" fuel line will work great but you have to make sure to plan the bend radii. Being a bigger line it will need more gentle bents.

Andrew

Andrew,

Do you think the aluminum would be a little more forgiving?

Mike

[andrewb70]

Andrew,

Do you think the aluminum would be a little more forgiving?

Mike

I don't have any experience with aluminum lines, so the short answer is: I don't know.

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

I don't have any experience with aluminum lines, so the short answer is: I do t know.

Andrew

Hahaha, fair enough sir

[MMcMasters]

Today we did a much needed spring cleaning. A long winter and 6 months of welding and grinding took it's toll. We took everything out and gave the walls and floor a good scrubbing. It feels new again :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsufpwz4hw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsufpwz4hw.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zps6kbgokqt-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps6kbgokqt.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpstdixzldl-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpstdixzldl.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsobmvevlj-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsobmvevlj.jpg.html)

Now lets get some work done!!

[cactuss4]

What a great setup to work in.. My new house will have big garages or a barn for real car fun can be had.

[bigdaddychevelle]

great shop. great job on your car.

[MMcMasters]

It was such a beautiful day today so I rolled the body outside and worked on the firewall a little. I cut out the area where the stock throttle bracket is and made a piece to fill that area. I also did a final fit of the smooth panel and clamped it in place. My son drilled the firewall and used cleco's to hold it in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsvn01fp4l-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsvn01fp4l.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpszvlkyvbq-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpszvlkyvbq.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsuhnlzn0l-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsuhnlzn0l.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsp56qqpiq-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsp56qqpiq.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsugrco4qz-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsugrco4qz.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpse8wzyjzh-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpse8wzyjzh.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

Guys please be honest with me..Do these tires make my ass look fat?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsjzvavbkh-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjzvavbkh.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsvitudhu4-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvitudhu4.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsmgxmrgyu-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmgxmrgyu.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpswb2hg9a8-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpswb2hg9a8.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsiqln9ejj-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsiqln9ejj.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsmdteen9q-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmdteen9q.jpg.html)

[Motown 454]

They look sweet back there!!

[rixtrix1]

They look sweet back there!!

They would look sweeter under my Malibu, lol!

[cactuss4]

They look great, but 18's eh.. guess R-comps are cheaper on 18's then 19 or 20's :)

Tory

[MMcMasters]

The weather was great today and I got to spend the entire day in the shop. I feel like I have been lagging behind recently so I told myself the firewall was getting done today. It still needs body worked but its all welded up. I also mocked up my master cylinder, Proportional valve and clutch master to get an idea of how busy it's going to be. I ordered a Ring Brothers clutch resevoir but i didn't take a picture yet. It's pretty slick though!

The firewall and the back of the smooth panel were both sprayed in etch primer. I used a rolock and cleaned the edges down to bare metal where I would be welding. I also plug welded a few spots from the inside using the old firewall pad holes so those areas were taken down to bare metal as well. I used weld through primer on the edges that were taken down to metal. Hopefully this will keep future corrosion at bay.

I slowly stitch welded the perimeter to keep heat and distortion down. This took me all morning. After mocking up the brake and clutch masters I realize I need to come up with a nice looking plate to cover the exposed areas on steering column hole. Here are a few pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zps41fveycq-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps41fveycq.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsokcx4idr-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsokcx4idr.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zps4grrinrn-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps4grrinrn.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsfwyhysnr-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsfwyhysnr.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/05/image_zpsvz4aapxw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsvz4aapxw.jpg.html)

[andrewb70]

Mike,

Nice work. If you are doing all that work on the firewall, why not fill in the steering column hole, then use a billet lower mount?

Andrew

[MMcMasters]

Mike,

Nice work. If you are doing all that work on the firewall, why not fill in the steering column hole, then use a billet lower mount?

Andrew

That's not a bad idea. I'm going to do some searches and see if I can find some other options and steal their idea:)

[andrewb70]

That's not a bad idea. I'm going to do some searches and see if I can find some other options and steal their idea:)

I just found this:

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH28551/

Bolt in?

Andrew

[rixtrix1]

Looks like a neat piece, Andrew.

[MMcMasters]

Working with limited talent and even less smarts, I am actually very proud of how the firewall turned out. I did my final round of blocking today and it's ready for color. It went from this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpshohgb23a-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshohgb23a.jpg.html)
to this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsnqh9vxkj-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsnqh9vxkj.jpg.html)

I put the body temporarily back on so I can finish the brake lines up to the proportional valve and figure out what I want to do for a fuel line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsbrdtyatw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsbrdtyatw.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zps9llhmy92-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps9llhmy92.jpg.html)

[rixtrix1]

[QUOTE=andrewb70;1129672 I don't have any experience with aluminum lines, so the short answer is: I don't know.

Andrew[/QUOTE]

Need to use steel lines with EFI. Aluminum is for carbureted drag cars that don't run 50+ pounds of fuel pressure.

[MMcMasters]

I mocked up my new Tanks Inc tank. It came powder coated, stealth 340 Aeromotive pump, 0-90ohm fuel sender and stainless tank straps. Very nice deal for the money. I really wanted a Ricks vapor works tank but I couldn't pass this up when it went on sale.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zps2nc2s9fb-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps2nc2s9fb.jpg.html)

My goal over the next few weeks has been to put the body back on for good. The only thing holding me back is running fuel lines ,the battery cable for the trunk mounted battery, roll over vent and a vent for the rear end. I put the body on again today and mounted the tank so I can map out where I want to run everything. Once I get it laid out I will lift the body off again so I have room to drill and tap all my holes for the line clamps. I really hope to have the body on for good by next weekend.

My plan for now is to run a corvette filter/regulator so I also found a nice spot on the rear cross member and mounted it there. The filter comes with a very thin mount that I wasn't comfortable with. It had a lot of movement and I fear it will eventually work harden and crack. Here is the original bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsmrnwgpup-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmrnwgpup.jpg.html)

I had an old MSD coil bracket on the shelf and I think it will be much more durable and one less thing to worry about. It fit the regulator perfect. All it needs is a few minutes in the blast cabinet and some black paint.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsl6h9w8xp-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsl6h9w8xp.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpszahbysri-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpszahbysri.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsesq1qygk-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsesq1qygk.jpg.html)

[Zoomin]

Great idea on the bracket. Time spent planning this stuff out and trying to prevent future failures will really pay dividends. Thanks for the tips.

[cactuss4]

113999

Can you show me the bracket that is holding the rear brake line in place (the 2-1). I just had a friend machine up a nice piece, since I didn't think there was something available. So interested in seeing what yours looks like.

I wanted mine a bit higher so the brake lines ran up over the upper a-arm brackets in my Moser, so I could easily pull the bracket if I was servicing the differential.

114000

[MMcMasters]

[QUOTE=cactuss4;1139194]https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113999&stc=1

Can you show me the bracket that is holding the rear brake line in place (the 2-1). I just had a friend machine up a nice piece, since I didn't think there was something available. So interested in seeing what yours looks like.


I hope your expectations aren't very high:):) It's just a basic bracket I fabbed out of some scrap material. Here are a few pics.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsqwnbeoc5-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqwnbeoc5.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsxfomupya-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsxfomupya.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpszrinnpd2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpszrinnpd2.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/image_zpsjgfzw2db-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsjgfzw2db.jpg.html)

[tommycomfort]

I really like that tank! I'm going to check to see if they are still on sale. I could use the weight savings over my Rick's tank.

[MMcMasters]

I know a guy who is a dealer, you may know him:)

[tommycomfort]

I know a guy who is a dealer, you may know him:)

Oh, that guy... :rolleyes:

[MMcMasters]

Great idea on the bracket. Time spent planning this stuff out and trying to prevent future failures will really pay dividends.

I couldn't agree more. I appreciate the kind words!

[MMcMasters]

I started plumbing the fuel line tonight. I chose -6 Earls Pro Lite 350. I expect to get flamed for not running a hardline but I researched the Pro lite and it's more than adequate for the pressure i will be running.

From my own experience the Earls pro lite doesn't suffer from the fuel vapor smells that the russell lines have.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsmns81prk-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmns81prk.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zpsylak0vws-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsylak0vws.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/06/image_zps6qmkwuae-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps6qmkwuae.jpg.html)

I hope to put the body back on this weekend and re install the tank so I can make the lines from the regulator to the tank.

[Zoomin]

I got no problem with that. Nice, clean plumbing job.

Is all this going to be happy with ethanol? I hate the stuff, but it's just so hard to avoid.

[MMcMasters]

My last two race cars (on Methanol) were plumbed with the pro lite with zero issues. According to Earl's website, it is compatible with methanol and E85.

[MMcMasters]

Well it's been a long wait but my fronts showed up today, I finally have a full set.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpsf3uwiaif-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsf3uwiaif.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zps2dhd79e4-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2dhd79e4.jpg.html)

[cactuss4]

[QUOTE=cactuss4;1139194]https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113999&stc=1

Can you show me the bracket that is holding the rear brake line in place (the 2-1). I just had a friend machine up a nice piece, since I didn't think there was something available. So interested in seeing what yours looks like.


I hope your expectations aren't very high:):) It's just a basic bracket I fabbed out of some scrap material. Here are a few pics.

Awesome nope that's great, much more basic but serves the same purpose. thanks for posting and well done!

Tory

[tommycomfort]

Well it's been a long wait but my fronts showed up today, I finally have a full set.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpsf3uwiaif-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsf3uwiaif.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zps2dhd79e4-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2dhd79e4.jpg.html)

Interested in selling those? :-)

[MMcMasters]

Interested in selling those? :-)

I will text you Tom

[MMcMasters]

One thing I hate more than anything as far cars go is spending money twice. Obviously I have done it or I wouldn't bring it up, so here it goes:)

I plumbed the fuel system with what I had on hand and I'm confident it would have been more than enough to handle what I'm going to throw at it. My goal with this car is to build in durability and limit the possibility of future failures. My worry is fuel additives change all the time and rubber eventually breaks down.

I broke down and called Brown and Miller Racing Solutions and ordered their High temp fiber braid PTFE hose and crimped on fittings. A little pricey but they should outlast the car and my piece of mind is worth the extra money spent. The hose is super lightweight and will go around a tighter radius than the pro lite 350.

http://www.bmrs.net

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpsffoflrj2-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsffoflrj2.jpg.html)

[MMcMasters]

I have had zero shop time the last month or so but I'm hoping to change that in the near future. I finished plumbing the brakes today, assembled the front hubs and got the front suspension torqued and cotter keyed. Then the little kid in me decided to see what the chassis would look like if I actually had wheels.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpsgirjgmph-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsgirjgmph.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpssztngi0t-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpssztngi0t.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpsaui17eln-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsaui17eln.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image_zpskj9lld9i-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpskj9lld9i.jpg.html)

[cactuss4]

perfect throw seats in and your done! :))) 275 fronts, need to figure out how to get there, my 245's are tiny against the 315's in the rear

[MMcMasters]

perfect throw seats in and your done! :)))

:) I love it!

[Zoomin]

It's gonna be sweet!

Lots of quality stuff on that rascal.

[MMcMasters]

I received my Vintage air stuff this week. I'm still in a holding pattern waiting for the car to leave for paint so I started modifying the dash today to accept the A/C vents. It was pretty straight forward but I am enjoying documenting everything as I go. I used the supplied templates to locate the lower dash vent balls. Using a 3" hole saw I cut both holes.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zps0674zoyg-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps0674zoyg.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zpsmonyalps-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmonyalps.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zps5khxnfdo-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps5khxnfdo.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zps37nlghpt-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps37nlghpt.jpg.html)

The I used the supplied template to cut the opening for the upper dash vents. I used my new dash strip for this. I drilled a 9/64" holed through the center dash strip mounting boss. Then overlay the template and line up the 9/64" hole I just drilled with the hole in the template and scribed my cut line. I ended up drilling a small hole at each corner and using a body saw to cut the opening in the dash strip. A little clean up and fine tuning with a file was necessary but it all went pretty easy.

Once this is done, I re installed the dash strip and scribed inside of the freshly cut opening and transferred this to the dash itself. I used a cut off wheel and cut the dash. This was a pretty productive day. When I ordered my kit I decided to upgrade the controls to their black anodized electronic controls. I will fill the opening in the dash where the factory controls were and mount the new controller there.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zpst0psmepc-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpst0psmepc.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zpseuqilppz-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpseuqilppz.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/image_zpsutdt1cw0-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsutdt1cw0.jpg.html)

[rixtrix1]

Looking really good! My current body was an A/C car and I sold the dash and all corresponding parts for triple what I paid for the body quite a few years ago. Now that I want to make the car go further than a quarter mile at a time I kind of wish I had kept it. But the aftermarket solutions are probably better, as your work shows, and they leave the engine compartment cleaner, too. Thanks for all the pics.

[MMcMasters]

With all of the engineers on this site, sometimes I'm embarrassed to show some of my work but here it goes. I went out after work tonight and started making a filler panel for the factory heater control hole and a place to mount the new electronic controls.

I really wanted to start welding it in tonight but I let a grinder get away from me and it took some of my leg with it so I called it a night. Sorry for the picture over load.

I made a pattern from cardboard and transferred it to steel. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpssasizo7l-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpssasizo7l.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpsyvl5wyan-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsyvl5wyan.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpsmtdbemm3-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmtdbemm3.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zps6wttpvgd-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zps6wttpvgd.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpshksldkdw-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpshksldkdw.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpsmyahk2vi-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsmyahk2vi.jpg.html)

[Zoomin]

I'm no engineer, but I'm not an NFL quarterback either and I know a completed pass when I see one. Looks real good from here.

Hope your leg is OK,

[MMcMasters]

I'm no engineer, but I'm not an NFL quarterback either and I know a completed pass when I see one. Looks real good from here.

Hope your leg is OK,

Hahaha, Thanks! The leg will survive.... The "death wheel", 4 1/2" cut off wheel, has got me many times but I still love it :)

[MMcMasters]

I welded in the new panel tonight, it turned out very clean and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm going to start mocking up the main unit under the dash next and locating where I need to put the bulk head on the fire wall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/image_zpsgxqfp2kx-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/image_zpsgxqfp2kx.jpg.html)

[SIK02SS]

Great build! Any updates?

[MMcMasters]

The project has been stalled for over a year while I searched for someone I trust to paint the car. It is nice how it is but this one is a keeper and I really wanted it right.I'm happy to say the search is over and I finally found someone I trust. The car is now in his hands. Here is a picture when it left a few weeks ago. I will try to post updates as he sends them to me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/12/IMG_3161_zpslkhwcdu6-1.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cop427/media/1970%20C10/IMG_3161_zpslkhwcdu6.jpg.html)

[old66tiger]

Man, this is one sweet build. Makes me want to do another...Hardtop next time for me.

[MMcMasters]

Thank you sir, I appreciate the kind words! I stopped by to see the car last night and it makes me feel great to see work being done.