Trans Am Pro-Touring build - almost done!

[Doug1]

This is a 2nd Gen I have been working on for a while. It has gone through a few incarnations to its current point. These photos show the car as I received it and my first round of upgrades before tearing it all apart again.
When I first got the car, she looked pretty good and had gone through some work but the motor was obviously a throw in. I assume the previous owner pulled the motor and dumped this in to sell it.She was actually a good 5 footer but had 2 or 3 spots of rust bubbling up at the usual spots and paint cracking behind the T-Tops. The car was still a good looker but the motor was rusty, crusty and a 301 turbo that wasn't even hook up all the way. It barely ran. So the first thing I did was pull that motor and put in a 72 HO 455 that was built to roughly 500 hp.

Original exterior condition - small dent in quarter, etc.
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[Doug1]

Put it on the rotisserie and off we go.

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[Doug1]

It didn't take long to strip it to bare metal.

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[Doug1]

In these pics she is just back from the blaster. 2K primer and sealer and the fun begins!

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[Doug1]

What floor?
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Here the new complete floor pan is in, DSE firewall filler panel is being welded in, new toe kicks are in, subframe connectors are tacked in place and the DSE mini-tubs are going in.


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[Doug1]

ttf

[Doug1]

DSE Mini-tubs are in.
Full floor is in.
DSE Firewall panel is in
DSE sub frame connectors, cut and tacked in place waiting to mate new sub-frame.
Upper and lower tubular control arms and springs are mounted to freshly powder coated sub-frame

Ready to mount the body on the sub-frame and then finish welding the connectors in place once everything is square. I

Going to use an temp rear end assembly to put up under the car until it is painted in order to protect it from overspray on the springs or housing.

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[Doug1]

In this set of photos, the DSE sub-frame connectors and tubs are fully welded in and the bottom of the car was sprayed with some Kevlar infused 2K bed liner.
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[Doug1]

Loaded up and at the body shop! New hood and a set of Year One fiberglass flares are in boxes in pictures. The rest of the body panels are on the trailer as well. Finally starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel at this point.

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[Doug1]

Jambs and firewall are painted. Both top and bottom of new floor and sub-frame connectors have been sprayed with bed liner.
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Year One aftermarket hood
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Year One fiberglass wheel flares

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[Doug1]

Finally getting some color on this beast! Fresh out the booth and ready for sanding and buffing.


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[Doug1]

Airbrushed bird is finished. We still have to do the callouts done before clear coating.
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[Doug1]

The airbrush artist is finishing up the call outs in these photos. It was neat to watch him work.

Here's how its done. First he used contact paper on the car and hand drew the sail panel birds and fender lettering.
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Then he uses a razor blade to cut out the inside outline before airbrushing.
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[Doug1]

Few more now that the clear is on. Still has to be cut and buffed but it looks pretty darn good already!


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[Doug1]

As part of prepping for the drivetrain installation we laid out the transmission installation kit only to find out the flywheel that was shipped didn't fit the crankshaft. The hole that goes over the snout was 2.4" instead of 2.75". So American Powertrain dropped shipped us the proper one.

Here is a picture of the full kit, including the QuickTime Bellhousing cover that will fit a Pontiac. The flywheel for the dual clutch T-56 is a nice piece of aluminum, though the motor had a brand new SFI approved, high end flywheel from SD Performance. The American Powertrain clutch is thicker and lighter.

The install kit to put there T-56 Magnum in a 2nd gen is really sweet.
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It included all of these parts plus the correct bellhousing, which I already mounted on the transmission.
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[Doug1]

A DSE Quadra-link today with a Moser built Ford 9" with 35 spline axles to fit my WaveTrac center should be here soon. Picked up a stainless narrowed gas tank built by Rock Valley Antique Auto as well, so she should be coming together soon.

[andrewb70]

Nicely done...I am always impressed to see a car taken down to the bare bones and put back together.

Andrew

[1965gp]

Going to be awesome when it's all together!

[Gratefuldiver]

Nice job, glad you kept it all Pontiac!

[81sleepinOLDS]

Such a cool build. Definitely subscribed. I like how you won't compromise with anything less than what you want. If you want something done right...

[NOT A TA]

Coming along very nice now Doug!

[Roadrage David]

very nice to say the least. like the fact you staied with the traditional injun power plant....

[Schwartz Performance]

Looking good! Nice pics.

[gordonr1973]

That paint job was definitely worth the wait, very nice build!!

[CruizinKev]

wow sweet!!!

[GM_muscle]

looking great doug. boy i cant wait to see this car in person.

[Doug1]

Quick update...

Had to change directions on the wheels and went with Year One Billet Snowflakes with black paint. 18x12 on the back and 18x9 on the front. Dave at Restore a Muscle Car was a lot of help in getting the right setup with the best turn radius. He explained that I could get 10's under the front but the turn radius would be limited.

Below are a few pics of the biggest parts of the DSE rear setup ,

First is a narrowed stainless steel fuel tank, needed to fit exhaust past the QuadraLink. This will be fitted with an internal Aeromotive Phantom Flex fuel pump for EFI.
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Here is the rear end housing. All the other parts of the QuadraLink are still in a bunch of unopened boxes. We chose a 3.73 WaveTrac center section, 35 spline Moser axles and will be using 14" Wilwood rotors and brakes to match the front.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/9A47343170DA403D8CCE1AC3ECF3A40A_zpsmpvs-1.jpg

[Doug1]

One other quick update to add...

I changed directions on the front end a little bit since I went all in on the rear suspension. I wanted to keep the factory frame in this car, since I have a full AME frame TA being built as well. Dave at PTFB is setting me up with a fully adjustable coil over setup for the front. Have to do a little cutting on my powdercoated front subframe but it will be worth it. So I'm going with a full tilt PTFB front end setup with their new style upper and lower A-arms, new spindles, modified frame with ride-height adjustable coil overs, adjustable sway bar, new gearbox and other steering components, pro-g-braces, etc. Also going to have my fabricator add a custom roll bar because of the stupid amount of torque this car will make. He's already installing the Quadra-link brackets so the roll bar should be a quick deal for him while it is in his shop.

[Doug1]

Just about done with the Quadra Link installation. Had to wait a couple of months to get a fabricator I wanted to do the welding on the frame. I can weld but not at a level required to safely do suspension components.

There are some photos of the wheels I ordered. Year One Billets with black inserts. 18x12 in the back and 18x9.5 in the rear.

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An original 15x7 snowflake next to the 18x12s
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[GM_muscle]

looks good doug. will it ber eady for the car show at trident tech? what did you do with the stock front spoiler?

[Doug1]

looks good doug. will it ber eady for the car show at trident tech? what did you do with the stock front spoiler?

If I can't get it finished for the show, maybe I'll bring it on a trailer. This particular car has YearOne flairs and a fiberglass spoiler on it. There is very little stock left on the car other than the basic sheet metal.

[Onebad78ta]

I feel your pain when it comes to dealing with a hack shop,,,thank god I got mine out ASAP ,,but it did cost me a lot of money that could have went to actuall quality work being done,,but I can't go into detal do too somebodies feelings being hurt ,,,and legal mumbo jumbo,,,maybe someday I can continue to voice my feelings.oh and that person reads this you know who you are and you know what you did,,,karmas a bitch.

[zamora7]

Nice to see this project back on track.

[GM_muscle]

i live off 17a. you have any left over parts?

[Doug1]

i live off 17a. you have any left over parts?

Once I get both Pro-Touring TAs done, I'll let you know! I need the space!

[Doug1]

I had a request to update the thread on this site so I'lll give it a quick rundown. Most of it was posted over on lateral-g and I didn't want to duplicate but I realize some people don't check both sites.

So here is how she has progressed since I last left off...

The Quadra-link and a roll bar were installed. I had also added a front bar and connected the two via two bars running down the center. Unfortunately, that proved to be a bit dangerous for a street car, so we went a different route with a 6 point roll bar.

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[Doug1]

Put the engine and T-56 Magnum in place using American Powertrain's Pro-fit kit that was supposed to fit in the stock tunnel. Well I have since learned from DSE and and few other builders that if you to get the driveline angles right using a magnum, you'd better plan on cutting the tunnel. So that nice new entire floor plan I started with was cut up a little more....

In this first pic you can see how low the transmission hung and it was hitting the top of the tunnel at this point.
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So adjustments had to be made...
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A much better result...
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[Doug1]

I used the Pypes stainless system for DSE Quandralinks and was pretty pleased with the overall fit. It might yet require a small amount of tweaking but for the money it is worth it just to get it this close.
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Going to have to tweak this just a bit but I may be able to move it by re-positioning verses cutting.
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[Doug1]

On to the more fun parts of the build!
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[Doug1]

Getting the front brakes mocked up.
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[Doug1]

The class this car will run in requires a factory sub frame. So we decided to throw the PTFB book at it.. LOL. Coil-over conversion, g-bars, spindles, upper and lower control arms, sway bar brace and sway bar, quick ratio steering box, etc.

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Ride height can be adjusted from the top with a 1/2 drive ratchet.
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You can also see that I went with Hydratech Hydraboost. I opted for the "show finish" which added 3-4 weeks to receiving the part. It sure does look pretty.
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[Doug1]

I'm updating some of the factor weaker points using products from a company called Lab14. These small but significant items really address some of the issues that we see on most ever 2nd gen coming through. The front A-Arm bolt holes are wallowed out more often than not and these weld in washers are a great way to preserve a lightly worn frame like this one or to repair one with more serious wear.

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[Doug1]

Now I'm installing a Vintage Air system to keep the ride cool
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I decided to used the Quick Clip hoses which are easier to route and get where I want them. They should be arriving today. The hoses that come with the kits take up more space than I like. So to the spare parts pile they went and the Quick Clip system will be utilized to move things around more in a more stealthy manner.

[Doug1]

Seats and brackets....

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[Doug1]

Here's a mock up of the pulley system Mark Luhn is building for me. Of course everything will be polished.... He was even able to find a Type II power steering pump with a polished reservoir with 2 retuns and a feed, since I will be using the Hydraboost and am not a fan of installing a T in the return line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/E4DC9A9894D54BE58A50CA7402619103_zpscu0y-1.jpg

[Josh@Ridetech]

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You'll want to mount the the trunnion on the top side of the lower control arm pocket. Right now, those bolts are the only thing holding all of the weight of the car up. Thought I'd throw that out there, I don't want to see them break on you.

Keep posting the updates!

[Doug1]

You'll want to mount the the trunnion on the top side of the lower control arm pocket. Right now, those bolts are the only thing holding all of the weight of the car up. Thought I'd throw that out there, I don't want to see them break on you.

Keep posting the updates!

Good eye! Unfortunately, I have to replace those brand new lower control arms because of a manufacturing defect that Dave found on those. So it was a slap together mock up and the T-bars were too long to fit in the pocket. I have new T-bars now but didn't feel like messing with moving them around since the LCA's have to get sent back as soon as Dave at PTFB ships me the new ones.

I have a set of his first gen LCAs on the shelf but they don't work with the coil-over setup so no actual driving until the new LCA's get here. I'm a month or two from a drive at this point anyway. :-)

[Alponcho]

It's great to see this car coming together. Motivation for me to get going on mine! Man, the exhaust is so tight...anything you would have done differently in that department?

[Doug1]

It is going to be tight no matter what you do. There just isn't a lot of room there. The pics of this are with the car sitting as low as possible when mounting the shocks. I haven't adjusted them up at all and thought that if I could get the exhaust in with it that low then once it is set to ride height it will then have as much clearance as possible. The one thing I did learn is that it important to leave it all loose and keep twisting and moving the pipes around the axle area until you find the best alignment. I've got some more to do in this area but think it will take very little modification of that Pypes system if any to get the best possible fit. I did have to cut the long side of the X-Pype and move it back about a foot to clear the T-56 cross member. But some 1 ft 3" extensions worked great and leave me a place to put in cut-outs if I decide I want them.

We chose a drive shaft safety loop that was orginally designed for TH350s. It bolted up to the T-56 mount and worked like a charm. You can see it in the photos.

[Doug1]

Decided I didn't like clearance to get my brake and fuel lines along the inside of the frame rails in the area adjacent to the DSE sub-frame connectors. I really didn't want to remove the entire rear foot wells either so I put in 19"xl 1" 18 Gauge channel in each side. Should get to finish welding and painting these up in the next day or two when I get back to the shop. Wish I had thought of this before putting the Dynamat in. :-)

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[OLDFLM]

Great idea Doug! What are you using for your fuel system?

[Doug1]

Hey Ty! Good to see you. I'm was using an Aeromotive A1000 to feed the Pro-Systems carb. However, we decided to go all out and do a custom port injected fuel injection system so I ended up running an PHantom Dual Flex sump system in a DSE stainless tank.

[OLDFLM]

I'm thinking of going with an electric pump back at the tank myself now... I'm still having vapor/heat soak issues and thinking about running new lines with a feed and return using a Holley HP 150 pump that I got from Patrick at ProSystems.

I'll keep the RobbMc 1/2 sending unit, use my RobbMC 100 micron filter back at the tank and then into the HP 150... feed from there to the front of the Holley Fuel Log on my Pro Systems Carb and then out the back of the fuel log to the RobbMc regulator that's already mounted on the firewall (I'll convert it from deadhead to bypass with their kit for $30) and then out the bottom of the reg with a return back to the tank. Gotta think about where to put the 40 micron filter up by/before the carb but I'll figure it out. I may put it back by the tank too... 100>pump>40>carb. Seems like a lot of work but it'll move all the lines away from the heat that the mechanical pump location causes on our Pontiac motors and I probably need to replace the lines that were put on the car in 2008 anyway since their the Summit cloth braided rubber 8AN lines. I'm going with CPE this time so I can reuse the same AN fittings.

??? How are you mounting your pump back by the tank ???

FWIW I think that 10 micron filter is too small for a carb... I think you want a 40 micron there with the 100 back by the tank. Keep the 10 micron for when you go to fuel injection.

I've been looking at the TBI kits myself lately. But IF I got that route I'll go with a Tanks Inc tank with the internal Walbro and all new fittings with PTFE lines. Mo' Money!

[Doug1]

I'm thinking of going with an electric pump back at the tank myself now... I'm still having vapor/heat soak issues and thinking about running new lines with a feed and return using a Holley HP 150 pump that I got from Patrick at ProSystems.

I'll keep the RobbMc 1/2 sending unit, use my RobbMC 100 micron filter back at the tank and then into the HP 150... feed from there to the front of the Holley Fuel Log on my Pro Systems Carb and then out the back of the fuel log to the RobbMc regulator that's already mounted on the firewall (I'll convert it from deadhead to bypass with their kit for $30) and then out the bottom of the reg with a return back to the tank. Gotta think about where to put the 40 micron filter up by/before the carb but I'll figure it out. I may put it back by the tank too... 100>pump>40>carb. Seems like a lot of work but it'll move all the lines away from the heat that the mechanical pump location causes on our Pontiac motors and I probably need to replace the lines that were put on the car in 2008 anyway since their the Summit cloth braided rubber 8AN lines. I'm going with CPE this time so I can reuse the same AN fittings.

??? How are you mounting your pump back by the tank ???

FWIW I think that 10 micron filter is too small for a carb... I think you want a 40 micron there with the 100 back by the tank. Keep the 10 micron for when you go to fuel injection.

I've been looking at the TBI kits myself lately. But IF I got that route I'll go with a Tanks Inc tank with the internal Walbro and all new fittings with PTFE lines. Mo' Money!

The stock lines and routing were not all that great. Heat soak caused a lot of issues on the fuel systems for our motors, which is why they eventually insulated the line running from the manual pump to the carb. I think an in tank unit is the way to go if you are considering that. Then all you need to do it switch the type of pump when you are ready. All the other plumbing could stay in place.

I like to use hard line with AN fittings underneath the car and only use the flexible stuff with AN at each end. I first shape the lines using 1/2 aluminum tubing and we replicate the final version using mandrel bent 1/2" stainless lines. It really is a nice touch and give me peace of mind over a softer line system under the car.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Any updates? I like the direction this car is headed. Its going to be sweet!

[Doug1]

I have made some progress, though admittedly I haven't been able to spend a lot of time on the car lately.

I have the sperpentine belt system ironed out thanks to Luhn Performance. Mark did a great job building this custom system. It was a problem because I used the Ram Air Restorations timing cover that mounts a small block Chevrolet electric water pump. There were no serpentine belt systems to work around this which allowed a Type 2 Power Steering pump, a modern alternator and a Sanden Compressor. So this was custom designed by Mark at Luhn Performance and CNC'd for this project. http://www.luhnperformance.com/

Here is a look at the timing cover with nothing else installed. You can see it looks very little like a traditional Pontiac timing cover.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/23BCE79BF1F14A1E9D41F6290D79932E_zps8c3b-1.jpg

Here is the custom solution, which I am very happy with. I ended up swapping out the top port Sanden compressor for a rear port since the EZ Clip fittings were going to touch the hood when it was fully closed. Otherwise the setup shown rocks!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/F3FA903813C84282970636598CB7A37D_zpsdeeu-1.jpg


Here's a shot of the Sanden top port compressor issue.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/2E18AAA623B94A2BB66F2B3157B3A6A7_zpssmu6-1.jpg

The solution was to go with the rear port which allowed me hide the hoses underneath the intake manifold
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/19D8325471124A13BDD530877756B45E_zpsnpbh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/4116BEBA13DA4882BD701EBD164761B9_zpswaf7-1.jpg

[Doug1]

We mandrel bent the 1/2 fuel feed and return lines this weekend. I'm waiting on some bulkhead connectors to mount them permanently.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/EFA7F9AC41014009B30FE2BBE9B6519C_zps8iao-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/3005B484423B43D3B9F371D68C3768E2_zpsk0t6-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/92AF88669C644ECEABC07AF0B3C5FAB5_zps2cpa-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/4883C2299E9C4C5491E618EC0121E7B0_zpssh8h-1.jpg

[Doug1]

I had purchased a carbureted DSE stainless tank from a guy who had decided to go EFI. The more I thought about it, the less I liked the idea of an external fuel pump. So I found a great solution in the Aeromotive Phantom Flex system. It lets you retrofit a submerged pump and fuel retaining bowl into an existing tank. It pumps 450 lph and works with EFI or carburation.

I located the deepest part of the tank which still allowed me access to the feed, return and vent lines. I cut a 3 1/4" hole in the top, after a thorough cleaning of course. Here are shots of the tank....

Beforehand
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/749893CD2682420DB03F091239E8D34A_zpshcnp-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/6A9FDFD3017445DF92C8EF55CADAF03B_zpswnwx-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/B271844890A245C8B33D10B97CF57748_zps8fgc-1.jpg


In progress
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/D5EC2AD32EB945F5B22191F726E60F50_zpsvxzi-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/114BF4F7DF20420EA418ADF61241400F_zps8qdh-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/25A15BA610DA4907ACD49F0DEEF4AE9F_zpskqd8-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/F9E9C1911CB5405A8756A22EC6C4560E_zps2kgm-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/1E8E3DD5E3984916AD785A25247D8E5A_zpsbzux-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/A468C902B04F4BFA8742B7A44CC4601A_zps9iq4-1.jpg

And finished
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/FBA3B30C3E424E28B739B1BAA5968F68_zpsna9y-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/0542B511402C4146B675D1A4E2C24CAB_zpscse1-1.jpg

[Doug1]

As I wait on the rest of my Aeroquip Socketless hoses to arrive, I am moving on to the wiring.

I made this relay station to mount behind the dash but still have easy access.

Some 3/4" tubing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/FD45FCA337B8492DBD720971E5FB8ED3_zpsjpli-1.jpg
Cut a few miters in it and welded it up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/108503B144DE4828A301A4A40179945E_zpsvbdi-1.jpg
Paint and then install Rivnuts
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/4C150A01BDAB4BA5ADD1F96DC874F5B2_zpsj2on-1.jpg
Test Mount
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/800DCCF706C94D0EAC3D9C09A8F61494_zps8wfh-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Plumbed the rest of the AC system while I was resting. I want the lines to be hidden for the most part.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/B9147EEDDF4A41E28417369F3E3ACE2D_zpshjyd-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/8978D666B9494BBEA0F45A8834954A9D_zpslcso-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/A1FF1E6808A442598823395DD74A8C45_zps6oed-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Ran some wires for the trunk mounted battery. I'm running the starter off a solenoid in the trunk so that line is hot only while cranking. Everything else will be run off of 4/0 gauge wire that runs back to 250 amp circuit breakers. Mounted the wiring with rivnuts, adel style clamps and stainless button head screws for neatness.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/E1457990D60743B4AE0222942404B306_zps1tvb-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/6DD308CFB7364C0CA5DF7EC6D5789135_zpsiwmp-1.jpg

[YAMATHUMP]

This thing is really coming along nicely. I really like these 2nd gen bird cars.

[keepat]

Very nice! You look like you're making a lot of progress and getting close to being on the road.
Pat

[Doug1]

A few more updates. I put some 1/8" aluminum panels in each side of the radiator support. THe primary purpose was to mount stuff on them and run wires and hoses behind them. I like the look so much that I'm trying to relocate some of the electrical stuff I was going to mount on them. If I can, I'll polish any scratches out of the aluminum and leave them bare.

I use rivnuts to hold them in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/4F681E54FCFE44EC8E019D902AF74C7E_zpsyhpr-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/3CD3639A45F24B7C978E084AA2F902D9_zpsj3pk-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/108527245BF74A639D189CECDDF84758_zps7qzv-1.jpg
The passenger side was a little more challenging. I now have both hoses running behind the mounted panel. I'm going to order a straight T fitting with the pressure port in it, so I can drill a small hole in the panel so the port can be accessible.

[Doug1]

I fabbed a couple of brackets to use with bulkhead connectors to secure the fuel lines

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/E2F33B2F930E4109A42385E5C9F82477_zpszpbi-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/05/88FA2989EA384421B4EFF52C6DAD4E9B_zpsq9fh-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Water neck on thermostat housing and water pump and the inlet and outlet of the radiator are now all converted to AN fittings and a new neck was welded on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/1EF0323687E54A1CA66515C7DD7239E6_zpsjf0e-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/D12EE25F6B1246F3B76FCA8DF96430E9_zpsmc37-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/FCFA500AD34A4C21967F031ECFF2F853_zpsyxse-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/BB7FB9C831D74CCA85B4EA56DA82A702_zpsnpfi-1.jpg
Mark at Luhn Performance also machined the water pump for O-Rings after installing the AN 20 inlet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/265432C9CF494EDFA9279DC11268C345_zpsz03d-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Some Ring Brother's hinges were added.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/1508AB85B06D4B9385C33B5CE3B36218_zpswkyj-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/A668CAEFADAD4A7D85B7CB7D633469F3_zpsonv0-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/57199D18CB3D4356A5D807E92E74F524_zpsjjsd-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Steering column received some TLC with new bearings, all new electrical switches and a fresh coat of paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/F3D6C689E3204814AC02EE6C00192678_zpskpho-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Found a suitable location for mounting the MSD box. After the coil, we'll be ready to put the dash back in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/A2F6E38AA76F4041A260399AC7B4CFFE_zps9afd-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Here's a sneak peek at the gauges and custom bezel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/23F3BC1D66E1483CA677C46FC38A3AE7_zpshpny-1.jpg

[Doug1]

I finished off the most of the underdash wiring, with a few minor exceptions and installed the AC hoses and dash. It was quite a sight under there before I got it all loomed up and organized. One of the things I did a bit differently was to install a 0 gauge ground wire the full length of the car and install several busses like the one pictured below. At each junction, I'd connect the primary wire, another 0 gauge wire going to another actual ground nearby and then a third leg continuing on to the next buss. The fourth connection was generally out to a smaller ground buss so it would be easy to find a ground pretty much anywhere and the whole system would be grounded numerous places throughout the car and to the negative terminal on the battery. It was overkill but I really hate ground problems!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/8B7939E2BF8049889C710ED7E4E47231_zpsk7cb-1.jpg

I also have a 0 gauge hot wire running the length of the car and have smaller hot busses coming off of those, with one being switched and the other always on. Adding accessories is simple with this setup. No need to splice into anything to add additional circuits.

So here are the dash and gauges installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/0FF14F43A0D84BA48BCB45CC44006A2C_zpscbwd-1.jpg

I should soon be able to get back to finishing off the rear seat delete platform I began roughing in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/E94857F702D047FD8324DC2C84E6ABF8_zpseebg-1.jpg

[NOT A TA]

Looking good! The full length ground is a good idea, I've seen too many problems with rear mount batteries not using a full length ground.

[Doug1]

Thanks! I know the importance of a separate ground buss. Datacenter design is just one of the things in my skillset. lol.

[NOT A TA]

Dunno how much electrical background you have but be cautious of creating ground loops that can become a problem. I've seen ground loops do some weird things to aftermarket EFI etc. Here's some info for anyone interested http://www.w8ji.com/ground_loops.htm

[Doug1]

Interesting reading. I might have even picked up a nugget or two in there!

[Doug1]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/AED9B1FAE7244D1E873FFB6CBDC3E585_zpstrhq-1.jpg

New seats installed!

[Doug1]

Alright. Here is the mostly finished interior complete with an Alpine stereo system with a 5 channel 700 watt Amp, sub in the trunk, Apple Car Play, Nav, backup camera, alarm and "other" security features, remote door and trunk locks, Nav, Backup Camera, Apple Car Play, etc.

I also added a White Lightning Shifter to the T56 Magnum Extreme. This thing is SWEET.

The rear seat delete really exceeded my expectations. I still need to get a roll bar cover (carbon fiber sleeves), a billet shifter boot retainer and have the headliner installed but the rest is done. The Year One door panels, sail panels, and interior quarter panels were all covered (The rear panels had to be widened to fit the DSE tubs. I'll let the pictures do the talking....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37892718201_1384561bea_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZJs5XB)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZJs5XB) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37844721966_bd685d00b7_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZEd6mj)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZEd6mj) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37861927722_9aee7af110_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZFJh2h)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZFJh2h) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37892726931_32597c8e61_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZJs8y8)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZJs8y8) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37183145814_92844bc253_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YDKkNW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/YDKkNW) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37635813350_0cba81a8b9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKo6C)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKo6C) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37635813450_9bcee8aeb4_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKo8m)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKo8m) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37635813580_7a4fb72cb9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKoaA)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZkKoaA) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
Access speakers with custom grill covers and badging
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37183163354_c04153a442_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YDKr2m)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/YDKr2m) by https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37183160474_33edfa4966_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/]Doug Camburn[/url], on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/37892746901_5ef981e4e5_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZJseur)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/ZJseur) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/24040841298_1f8301a7af_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CCpAxL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/CCpAxL) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/), on Flickr

[NOT A TA]

Looks really nice Doug. The rear seat area came out exceptionally well. Rarely have I seen a rear seat delete that didn't look like a seat delete but more like it came from the factory like that.

[Doug1]

Looks really nice Doug. The rear seat area came out exceptionally well. Rarely have I seen a rear seat delete that didn't look like a seat delete but more like it came from the factory like that.

Thanks John. It took them a while but they really came through. And those pull out panels used to gain access to the electrics are so cool. When you remove them, there is a lip beneath that it is covered as well so it looks factory designed. One of the cool features I planned ahead on was to get the removable aluminum mount for the Ron Francis fuse block. I can lift the fuse block off the angled billet mount and set it up on the outside of the seat delete to work on it as needed. When finished, it sets back on the mount and automatically locks in place. I'll get some pics of that this weekend. Here's a photo before the seat delete was done.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/38095856122_72aa48de41_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/213pdMy)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/213pdMy) by Doug Camburn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)

[NOT A TA]

Removable fuse panel is a great idea! They're always in a place that's awkward to get to never mind actually being able to see well enough to determine if a fuse is blown. Can't tell you how much time I've spent over the years kneeling on the ground next to the drivers side of old GM cars with my head stuck under the dash and contorting to mess with fuses.

[cornfedbill]

Very well done. I like the touches from the original 70's Trans Am like the milled trim panels and horn button. It is a very well integrated combination of old and new that fits well.

I also like the way you did the rear seat area. It is very tastefully done.

[Doug1]

Very well done. I like the touches from the original 70's Trans Am like the milled trim panels and horn button. It is a very well integrated combination of old and new that fits well.

I also like the way you did the rear seat area. It is very tastefully done.


Thank you. I'm pretty pleased overall. The headliner still needs to be installed and a few other interior details to finish but we're much closer now.

[jlcustomz]

Haven't looked in on this one in a while.

Stock trans am interiors looked cool to me when I was a teenager, but yours looks cool for today's look. Definitely an improvement with some original.

[cdoggy81]

Doug, looking really good!!!

How do you like the Year One door panels? I have heard mixed results on fit & finish without some real sweat equity to make them work.

How did you modify the dash to accept the double din radio?

[Doug1]

I've had a few requests for the latest updates. We decided to go with a custom built multi port EFI system and chose the Holley HP controller and then spent quite a bit of time and $ to turn a Northwind manifold into a one of a kind EFI unit.


The manifold was taken off and sent to my friend Mark Luhn at Luhn Performance. He did the CNC magic on the manifold and you can see some of his work here in these photos.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/40345844170_eaa0093c5f_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24tdZQW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/24tdZQW) by [/url]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/42105538122_fc791e81e0_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/279HTxQ) by

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/42126153782_6ede40e925_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27bxxSf) by , on

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/27300990547_6828160b24_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/HAuHkz) by

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/42126153942_ca4683461f_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/27bxxV1) by

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/28896040468_b852f9bfc3_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/L2rL7h) by


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/40950486020_6c6586fbaf_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/25oDWNq) by

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/42767780612_b6c266c95f_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/28af4aN) by

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/41006323270_11f90509e0_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/25tA8gC) by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/][/QUOTE]

[Doug1]

The fuel injection required quite a bit of additional wiring to my custom built harness. I couldn't just leave it as is, since many wires were too long, so I cut, soldered and labeled every wire, installed techflex and labeled most of the groups as well. Here's the ECU mounted with a custom bracket.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/44016644351_26176c74b9_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2a4ANRe)[/url] by (https://flic.kr/p/2a4ANRe)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/44005996641_3118e54ee3_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2a3EeE2) (https://flic.kr/p/2a3EeE2)

I set up two paths for power. One distribution unit is fed by a 100 Amp Solid State Relay and the other a 50 Amp Solid State Relay with Power Surge protection. I put all the computer stuff on the surge protected PDU and all the noisy stuff on the other.

Moved a few fuses for the windows, though most fuses are under the rear seat delete in the Ron Francis removable fuse box. You can barely see the ECU back behind all the relays now. LOL
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/42516249960_15e673d836_c-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27M1TSq) (https://flic.kr/p/27M1TSq)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/43417985025_c9b8ddcf87_c-1.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/159188510@N03/) (https://flic.kr/p/299GwhH)

- - - Updated - - -

Throttle body installed
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/44007520505_87800fe235_c-1.jpg[url=https://flic.kr/p/2a3N3Dx]

Custom cold air intake now complete with proper fit for the lower TB. This allows a full height air filter to fit properly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/45142788462_f57343216c_c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/31318061648_4117564ce1_c-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/45142788512_d591e9c0ea_c-1.jpg

[Doug1]

Here are a few more that I haven't put up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fsTSgTEhLRkGE1WD6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TH9JY6HJAZ3HzAXC7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Axq144AFSumNMcHXA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnmGV1aVA3XSfDEp6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hCz2AaXdwLgueqgF9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/E5AY7wGgyk73uv46A

[cwylie]

Are you using that CRYDOM for PMW fan control? Anything special you had to do?

[1965gp]

That intake is a work of art!

[NOT A TA]

Looks great Doug!