Practical Suspension for an "X" frame

[greywuuf]

Hi guys, new to the forum and just starting in on a prject. Picked up a '59 Chevy Biscayne 2 Door (sedan) and am working through a "performance oriented" update. For now it will retain an old school 383 sbc and I will instead concentrate on suspension/handling/brakes. this will be a project to handle in stages.. first is making it run and move around on its own ( great father daughter thing as my 12 YO is super excited about it ) at that point it gets new bushings/ball joints/et all, in all of the suspension and I look into swapping in at least front discs... likely stock chevy for now. (not going to have the daughter learning to drive on that tiny one circuit master cylinder) My question is this, I really hope to take this to mild PT status... going to pick up an LS engine at some point ( likely a truck iron block ) and add a six speed ( three on the tree is cool and she needs to experience it but it will be MY car after all is said and done ). There are no road courses here in Alaska and the actual Roads are not super ( and there are only two of them ) but there is limited auto X availability. I want a comforatable predictable stable solid road/street car. What are my options for the rear suspension? What do you even call what is in there ? a semi triangulated 4 link on non parralell frame ? I figure the front is fairly standard A arm and tubular components will get me where I need to be with that...I am a fairly competant fabricator so changing the rear is not out...trouble is I have no practical experience with whats there and dont even know if it can be worked with. Any one have any experience/suggestions ? I do know that I am not thrilled about the ( forgive my misuse of terms ) panhard rod.. or transverse link .. seems counter intuitive to move your axle laterally from an engineering stand point... tips trick ideas and opinions all appreciatedThanks Dan in Alaska

[renegade6]

I've seen some good comments on using the ride-tech for the B Bodies. I figured the price with rebuilding my front end, ride tech, etc and I went with the new frame option but, it hasn't been easy.

[bret]

We've done thousands of these cars. One of the easiest installs we have. http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspension-packages/?subcats=Y&features_hash=V276#pagination_contents

Lots of options...take your time and look around!

[MonzaRacer]

Oe point, IF you are keeping the carrier bearing, the old school fix was going in an buying an expensive pillow block bearing that fits appropriately. this eliminates the weak knee carrier. Just saw one on a old GM car we did exhaust on the other day. Other tech was gonna weld everything, owner comes out and asks about strap clamps over ubolts, luckily it was before order shut off and NAPA Indy had enough. Boy was the other tech POed. but he was grousing about the cobbled up pillow block bearing as he had to deal with modified crossmember also.
With advent of cheaper chinese bearings picking up appropriate ID bearing and fitting it too car doesnt seem too expensive anymore. This guy said he spent well over $500 too do it in 70's this one cost less than $100 and he had machineshop mill a grease fitting hole in it!.
This is IF you have to keep it.

[Skip Fix]

Inland Empire has driveshafts.

http://www.iedls.com/Center-Support-Bearings/1958-64-Chevrolet-Cars.asp

Global West also has some kits, with rear susp. supports, Hotchkis also has some parts.

[greywuuf]

Thanks for the replies and pointers!
Looks like this is going to be Fun. think the "original" engine will be fired up this weekend ( original as in what it came to me with ... '72 3/4 tone truck 350 ) .. after that it is windshield and a minor brake upgrade. we will see where it goes from there.