drum spindles

[cutlassmann]

Can drum spindles make your car shake if there bad and can they go bad? I'm trying to brake down this shaking that I get when I get up to 60 mph then smooth out after I hit 75 mph I didn't get this till I had my front and rear suspensio done and brakes, shocks and rear end rebuilt and they guy put drum spindles on my car wondering if that could be it any ideas?

[wendell]

No.

[killer69]

yea No. maybe the caster setting??? maybe tire balance

[jake72ss]

u-joints? pinion angle? driveshaft?

[MonzaRacer]

IF your connection points are all solid and tight, NO a spindle will NOT cause a vibration. What you are experiencing is as stated by others either driveline vibration(ie out of phase, balance, bind,excessive angles on one or more end or bend)
Other is improper tire balancing. if you have wider 16,17,1 and up wheels many shops WONT take time ot do a proper balance on your wheels and use proper sticky weights. Looking around for a shop using a Hunter DSP9700 or a Road Force balancer and using the split spoke feature SHOULD be able to hide weights behind spokes, and properly balance your wheels and tires.
Generally an imbalance condition will have a dynamic frequency, ie at a specific "speed" it will over power the current wheel/tire balance shock tuning. I know of one fellow on here who wrote me about it and he couldnt believe it when he swapped in double adjustable shocks and vibration went from 60 mph to over 130 mph. THEN local shop got a Road Force balancer and they found slight imperfections in his wheels and tires and did match mounting and solved it.
The big issue here was his old adjustable shocks, according to Ridetech(I think they checked his old ones) they were no where near valved properly for his application, turns out seller had sold old coilovers from larger car and just swapped in different springs. So they were never tuned for his car balance and weight.
So better shocks controlled oddball wheel tire issue till different speed then forces overcame better quality shock valving to the notice of the driver .
See the vibrations was there but more controlled. After match mounting/balancing his car rode better than his Caddy daily driver and had rubber band sidewall tires!

[cutlassmann]

Yes I have new Q/A coil over shock in the front and I have to find someone to do road force balancing thanks I'm going to try this and see what happen can you explain what is road force balancing ?

[csouth]

You've chased this shaking in several threads here. You stated that the drive shave was cut and balance, which is good. Several people including myself have mentioned driveline angle, but you haven't stated if it has been checked. If memory serves me correctly it should be -3 degrees. I am not saying that this is the culprit, but you need to check things off your list when troubleshooting before you throw money at it here and there. Hope you get this resolved

[cutlassmann]

So you are saying I need to have the driveline Angle check first but I remember that it didn't start doing this till I had all my front and rear suspension work done and I had those wheels put on with my last motor? But I will get those check first then do the balancing.

[csouth]

So you are saying I need to have the driveline Angle check first but I remember that it didn't start doing this till I had all my front and rear suspension work done and I had those wheels put on with my last motor? But I will get those check first then do the balancing.

I'm really saying that I'm sure you're getting a lot of suggestions from all over the place. Create a checklist so you can mark off what has been done which will allow you to eliminate suggested issues. Also, If you still have your Olds wheels, pop those back on and go for a ride. If the problem still persists, you can isolate to the front suspension. It'll get to where whoever swapped your suspension is saying "its the wheels.." and your wheel guy is saying "check the suspension". If you swap the wheels out and the problem goes away or doesn't, you have gotten a step closer to solving your problem. What you need to find is the common denominator.

It seems like you had a lot of work done at once which makes isolating the problem a little tougher, but not impossible.

[cutlassmann]

I had stock 14 inch wheels so I sold them because of my brakes are to big so I'm going to see if I can borrow some 15 inch thanks

[Buryingthesun]

sounds like something is not balanced properly. . .

[MonzaRacer]

Road Force balancer has an air assist/powered force drum that rides on the tires surface. One to help settle the tire on the rim after installation.
Now during the balance operation the drum rides on the tire as it spins. This set up along with the software develops a reading of the force the tire will produce while going down the road. In doing so it gives a better balance picture. This in turn makes a car drive smoother, and the tires wear much better over time.

[cutlassmann]

will this be the same has letting butler tire doing the wheel balancing on the car.

[csouth]

will this be the same has letting butler tire doing the wheel balancing on the car.

It should help simulate the problem. I would first ask a tech to take a ride so he can feel what you are trying to get rid of, its much better than just putting your car on a balancer and calling it done.

[csouth]

Curious, did you ever get this resolved?

[cutlassmann]

no going to have the drive shaft rebalance first to see what that will do.

[cutlassmann]

Wow i got the drive shaft rebalance and its 200% better thank god.