Using curved tubular arms to lower the suspension?

[DryftKult]

Hi guys, I have an unusual problem.

My project uses double a arm suspension identical to the Pontiac Fiero and Chevrolet Chevette, I have been planning to build a new cross member and suspension arms to convert it to coilover and raise the suspension arm mounting points in order to give the suspension a 2" drop without negatively affecting the suspension geometry.

The problem I'm having is that the bushes on the lower arms are offset from eachother, and normally it wouldn't bother me but the rear mounting points for the lower arms are right underneath the chassis rails where the chassis meets the firewall.

now these cars are a unibody and the chassis is essentially a pressed section of steel welded to a flat sheet, so I know that the transport body over here won't allow me to cut into it.

Is it possible of even or even ideal to make a set of arms that radius upwards enough to hold the spindle 2" higher than the stock arms? would this affect the geometry?
As far as I can tell, but I'm not too familiar so I'm not sure, the curve in the arms would pull the spindle inwards more than usual during compression stroke, am I right in thinking this?

Can anyone offer me any suggestions?

[Schwartz Performance]

Others will chime in too but the first thing I see happening is that you're basically curving the control arms upward to mimic a drop spindle- which means you may have minimal clearance between the lower ball joint and the wheel- I suppose it depends on your wheel back spacing..
I've seen drop spindles for Fieros, how about those?
You'll have to move the rack up, or make something to bring the mounting point down.
What kind of car is this anyway?

[DryftKult]

The pre 88 Fiero's all run the same suspension yes but the drop spindles vanished from the market a few years ago, they're also illegal here as they're not approved by our transport governing body. I can use a bump steer corrector to realign the steering rack that's no issue.

It's for an Australian Holden Gemini, basically a Brazilian Chevette with the engine from a Chevy Luv.

I ended up doing a lot of Googling and found a company called DJM who make these for Tacoma trucks and other vehicles, there's also a couple of others who make them for cars also.

it looks like the trick is to tweak the length of the suspension arms and re-index the ball joints so they don't bind, I have a chassis jig for the front suspension so I'll be able to have a play and figure it out I think.

I'll be running 17-18" wheels so ball joint clearance to the wheel won't be an issue.

[DryftKult]

Just had a closer peek at the rear bushing, I can lift it maybe an inch, might be possible to go 1 1/4" if I take the slightest of radius's out of the chassis rail, shouldn't affect it's strength or be too noticeable. I'll suss it out further when my suspension jig arrives. still need a bit more tho to get it sitting close to where it's needed.

They also make these for the Fiero, 1" drop ball joints.
100006

I've considered using them but once again I've been worried about what they might do with the geometry, but if I can make them work then I should be able to get the 2" drop I'm chasing.

Car will also be lowered via springs, but not by much, just enough to bring the suspension a little closer into it's peak performance range.

[DryftKult]

Ok crisis averted, today I was able to get a better look under the car and have a much better look.

I can still get the 2" rise with a radius out of the chassis rail and a little reinforcing, and with a little extra work I can get it to look like it was that way from the factory.