Well I got a new car.. again..

[Steve1968LS2]

Just wheeling and dealing out here in sunny CA..

Just got this last night..

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=1529

Good Points,

All there as far as trim and such
VERY solid floors and frame no rust at all that I cound find there
solid shock towers
pretty straight
has the "turn signal" hood
Original San Jose 289 car

Bad Points

needs lower passengers quarter panel (back)
rust in front lower coners of both doors (common)
Doesn't run (has the motor but someone started pulling it all apart)

Best part is that I got it for only $2200. If you factor in that I made about $2000 by selling the first '67 then my effective cost for this car was $200!!! :woot:

Sucks that I can't do before hand testing. I think I will get it painted with a quicky job.. just a nice 10 footer deal and start with the engine/trans and move on from there.

I wish it ran but I couldn't justify spending $1000 more for a running car just to test and then toss the motor.

Im thinking a 347 stroker with a TKO500 trans. GW Cat 5 suspension and Fays2 watts link combined with some decent brakes. Maybe a monte bar from total control and some sort of frame stiffening..

Thoughts and suggestions are always welcome.

Also need a cheap but decent paint/body shop in CA.. I am thinking some sort of silver color..

[Damn True]

What's the goal?

Is it still going to be the "track whore" that you had planned at first?

[Nine Ball]

Nice price! Its nearly impossible to find a classic Mustang around Houston for that price range, they are very popular around here.

Steve, name this one "Anti-Bling" and make it a road warrior car.

Tony

[Steve Chryssos]

Thoughts and suggestions are always welcome.


Sell it.

[Nine Ball]

Sell it.

HAHAHAHA!

so blunt. he must be from the Northeast :)

[Steve1968LS2]

What's the goal?

Is it still going to be the "track whore" that you had planned at first?

Yep, track whore that is decent enough to take to cruise nights and stuff.. not a track only car.

Trying to think of a good budget.. maybe $20k or so.. should be enough considering how cheap I got the car..

[Steve1968LS2]

Sell it.

Come on now.. give the blue oval some love.. they need it ;)

Trust me.. I was already thinking "hmm.. If I could get the 289 in the car running I could flip it for $5k.."

I like the idea of the 347 stroker because retail on it is only $5500 so it is not crazy expensive. plus it is lighter than a 351W.

[Aussie]

Hey Steve

Have you checked out some of the stuff from these guys?

http://www.rrs-online.com/html/products.htm

[Steve1968LS2]

Hey Steve

Have you checked out some of the stuff from these guys?

http://www.rrs-online.com/html/products.htm

Holy crap.. they make some nice stuff.. I like the rotor paint the changes color to show temps hit.. thanks!

[4MuscleMachines]

Steve, the stuff from RRS is nice. Being a guy that once owned six early Mustangs, I have used practically all the stuff out there. For all out I like the RRS and TCP, for "track whore" I like the Maier Racing items. I have TCP tower bracing but just ordered the Maier unit for my 68 and its nice. I also like their panhard kits and they have the best rear swaybars as pictured below. For the ft sway, I like the hollow Cobra Automotive unit.

[steemin]

Steve,
Welcome to the darkside.
I thought that you were originally considering a big block for this project?
Anyway, I think that you will be happier with the light weight 347 stroker combo. You can still make some serious HP with the 347.
One thing that you may want to consider is the G Force T5 transmission.
Much lighter than the TKO,easier install (no cutting on the trans tunnel) and excellent gearing.2.95 1st gear and a .59 overdrive.
You can talk to Tony the owner of Astro performance with any questions you may have. Very knowledgable and helpful. Perhaps he will give you a deal with the promise of some exposure :)
www.astroperformance.com .
Good luck with this project.
Scott

[Andrew McBride]

http://www.mustangdepot.com

Here's a site you need to check out.

nice car by the way.

[SatisTraction]

hmmm, can i suggest building your own engine. you could do a 347 short block for under $2000. i have a nice set of AFR 205 small block ford heads that i would swap for some Penny throw offs. I also have a tremec 3550 to go behind what ever combo you can build.
chris

[BigBronco]

Come on now.. give the blue oval some love.. they need it ;)

Trust me.. I was already thinking "hmm.. If I could get the 289 in the car running I could flip it for $5k.."

I like the idea of the 347 stroker because retail on it is only $5500 so it is not crazy expensive. plus it is lighter than a 351W.

You could do well with a stroked 351 windsor. That was a motor i constantly looked over for my setup, but i am still unsure with my options.

You can definately make a decent 347 for cheap though no doubt and have decent power.


I am looking at the Ford Mustang and Cobra Electric green from 99-01 year models with Black Fikse FM5's or HRE 545 wheel combo....

[Steve Chryssos]

Come on now.. give the blue oval some love.. they need it ;)
Trust me.. I was already thinking "hmm.. If I could get the 289 in the car running I could flip it for $5k.."


Just another used car dealer joke. Nothing to do with the fact that it's a Mustang. I love 'em

[vanzuuk1]

I like those mustangs, it will be a cool car.

There was a guy on this site with a brown one , but he hasnt been around.

[Mean 69]

If you plan to build a 347, budget to replace the engine block after you get after things a few times. If you plan on tracking the car, the stock block won't hold up, been there, done that, twice. The two bolt Sportsman block is only a little better, an R302 or Dart block is the only safe way to go. I have a bare 289 block in my shop, which is a bit stronger than the late model roller blocks, and it is the most pathetically weak POS I think I have seen.

If you are interested, I have a BUNCH of new TCP chassis parts, a TKO trans, full Baer brake kit, and tons of other stuff, brand new, never installed that I was going to use on my 65 FB project. That project got put on hold, and I am going to be taking it into a different direction when I get after it again, so the stuff is for sale. Bring your checkbook, you'll feel like it was Christmas. Plus, I have no room for the stuff, and no time to list it on E-bay and manage selling it all. PM me for a list.

Mark

[Damn True]

You could do well with a stroked 351 windsor. That was a motor i constantly looked over for my setup, but i am still unsure with my options.



Concur.

The 351W is a very stout platform. Had one in the '69 Cougar I owned in the late 80's early 90's when I had more balls than brains. Drove it like a jacka$$ and never had a lick of trouble.

[F70t/a]

Cool deal steve :smoke: So when are the 22's going on? :doh:

[DarkBuddha]

Congrats finding a new project. I almost don't envy you... you've got a huge number of options in terms of suppliers for good chassis and suspension upgrades. RRS, TCP, GW, Fatman, Martz, Griggs, Maier, Cobra Automotive, etc... pretty much you're only limit is your budget or your affinity. So I say with a decent $20K budget and since you mentioned GW, I say go with GW. They've got everything you'd need/want, and I'm especially fond of their subframe connectors for the money. Besides, GW is a tried and true performer, as you well know.

Keep us posted on the progress!

[B Cichocki]

There was a guy on this site with a brown one , but he hasnt been around.

Me? I'm still around, just been ultra-busy with school. Senior year, applying to veterinary medical school, all that jazz. I drive the car to school every day, impress the girlies, and set off every damn car alarm on campus. :3rd:

-Brian

[MrQuick]

Good catch Steve... humm you could almost pass it off as the other car couldn't you...

[Damn True]

Another option for the powerplant that might be cool:

How tough would it be to drop in a new Roush poweplant?

[CAMAROBOY69]

Since this car wont be around long enough for me to finish my breakfast, I wont even give any more suggestions. See the other 2 or 3 threads on Steves "Flippin" cars. :lmao:
I see that one isnt a 67.

[wantahertzdonut]

If you're going to be tracking the car I'd just say build up the 289 to run some sick high rpm's. Save some weight and it would be more fitting for the car. A V8 screaming at 9000 rpm's is a sweet sound!

[Steve1968LS2]

Since this car wont be around long enough for me to finish my breakfast, I wont even give any more suggestions. See the other 2 or 3 threads on Steves "Flippin" cars. :lmao:
I see that one isnt a 67.

I will keep this one.. since it doesn't run it would be a PITA to flip.. lol..

I will still look for cars to buy and resell though, good money in it if you can find "deals".

Thanks for the comments and suggestions guys. Remember that this will be a magazine project car so I can't talk about it as much as one of my own cars since the powers will get pissed that I am "spilling beans"..

The stroker from Smeding seems to be a good choice because the it makes good power (405hp, 450tq) is lighter than a 351w and will not brake the bank. Building up a 289 isn't a bad idea either and I will look into it.

Lots of suspension choices but I really like the GW Cat5 systems and GW has always done good by me. I have been reading Tony's book and brushing up on my Mustang knowledge.

Gonna do this project a little different than most magazine cars. Gonna slap some paint on it first then install the motor/trans to get it running.

Won't be able to do before hand testing but lets be serious, we all know it would have handled and performed like crap. Goals will be to beat the performance of a new stang GT, by a LOT while trying to keep the budget cheaper. I want the car to have a somewhat trans-am look to it but updated a bit.

Now I have to find a decent shop that can shoot the stripped car for $2k or so.. I wish Prodigy wasn't so far away..

[CAMAROBOY69]

I read thru this post twice and I am still not sure what year that Mustang is?? It doenst have the side vents of a 67 so im not sure unless I saw the rear of the car. 68? 65,66 :dunno:

[Steve1968LS2]

I read thru this post twice and I am still not sure what year that Mustang is?? It doenst have the side vents of a 67 so im not sure unless I saw the rear of the car. 68? 65,66 :dunno:

It's a '68.. I wanted either a '67 or '68 car.. :)

I will have more pics once I get the car.. it is currently burried in the guys garage under a bunch of (light) boxes..

Time to call AAA ;)

[CAMAROBOY69]

I personally like the 68 Mustangs the best just because of the side vents. (Dont tell my GF I said that :secret: )
Good choice Steve. Keep that one for sure!!!!
Must feel good that your search is finally over. Now time to get to work.

[Stangonline.com]

Im doing a 67 Fastback. I really wanted a wide front wheel/tire combo and it seems the control arms and such are the real trick here. Along that note - even the GW upper will give you trouble with more than an 8" wheel. That usually limits people to 245 tires up front. It would be interesting to see at least a 9inch wheel and maybe a 275 on the front - if you could manage that, I'm sure you would have a lot of peoples attention. I'm looking into a griggs front setup, but thats a little pricey - if it will allow me to run the wheel/tire that I want, I'll do it.

Jeff

[Steve1968LS2]

Im doing a 67 Fastback. I really wanted a wide front wheel/tire combo and it seems the control arms and such are the real trick here. Along that note - even the GW upper will give you trouble with more than an 8" wheel. That usually limits people to 245 tires up front. It would be interesting to see at least a 9inch wheel and maybe a 275 on the front - if you could manage that, I'm sure you would have a lot of peoples attention. I'm looking into a griggs front setup, but thats a little pricey - if it will allow me to run the wheel/tire that I want, I'll do it.

Jeff

What about the A-arms form Total Control? They LOOK pretty narrow..

and yes.. wider is better :)

[TonyHuntimer]

Hey Steve,

My father always wanted to buy me a car like that. How about making it an even number?

:naughty:
Tony Huntimer
RaceHome.com

P.S. RRS stuff is top notch and awesome. The new TCP stuff is looking better than ever. I saw the new control arms a few weeks ago at Pleasanton.

[bnickel]

What about the A-arms form Total Control? They LOOK pretty narrow..

and yes.. wider is better :)


only way it can be done is to flare it, 8" is the max on the front usually if you can get the backspace perfect you might be able to get an 8.5" rim up front. personally i think if you are going to do a T/A style car some flares would go well with that look, they don't have to be massive either probably 1" or 1.5" would be good up front and maybe a 2" or 2.5" out back. if you do the flares do them in steel instead of glass, it would lok much better that way and isn't real hard to do either. basically you just pie cut the lip and fill the pie cuts with sheetmetal formed to the right shape and that's about it for the hard part.

[Stangonline.com]

My 67 has original rust-free quarters, so I really dont want to flare them.

This guy has a 70, so he might have a little more room to work with...I also haven't seen a pic of the car with the fenders on...might be in for a surprise. But during fab, he has 17x9 275s on the front. http://www.jktaylor.org/gallery/griggsinstall

Jeff

[[email protected]]

go against the grain and drop a ls7 with a 3.3l kennebell in it :naughty:

[Stangonline.com]

Fightin' words!

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