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View Full Version : what to use for coating a-arms



joehammbone
09-22-2005, 04:45 PM
I would like to take my suspension off my camaro and make it a little nicer instead of the built up road gunk that is currently on them. I am going to sandblast them in my garage. My question is what to coat them with once they are clean. I dont want to send them off because this is my daily driver. so what would you guys reccommend. Thanks alot.

toxicz28
09-22-2005, 04:59 PM
Primer, and Eastwood extreme chassis black.

Flyboy
09-22-2005, 07:48 PM
I'm going to be using POR15 on my arms and subframe. Check out Keith Criswell's Chevelle frame that he POR15'd. (http://www.zefhix.com) He goes by Zefhix here on the forums.

southernfriedcj
09-28-2005, 06:24 AM
Gloss black Hammerite is nice. It comes in rattle cans as well as in quarts, ect. Good stuff, goes on easy, thins with xyelene, and you can touch up with the spray can version. I ordered mine from Ace Hardware(I couldn't find a stocking dealer, and I had to get the part # for Ace since they didn't know they sold it).

www.hammerite-automotive.com

Jim

khool67G-Machine
10-11-2005, 09:44 AM
You can purchase a powdercoating system from www.eastwood.com (http://www.eastwood.com) for 149.99 it comes with gloss black and two colors of your choice. They have a lot of factory restore colors in their powders. I did my A arms, and when I get a chance I'll post. I sand blasted them and shot them gloss black. You can powder them and bake them in your oven. As a matter of fact, all of the loose nick-nacks on my camaro are powder coated. Well anything that will fit in a conventional oven. Hope that helps.

parsonsj
10-11-2005, 10:50 AM
Primer and engine paint will be durable and easy to do. I've gotten into that for a lot of my parts. From appearance, you can't tell it apart from powdercoating. I'm sure it won't be as durable as powdercoating, but the price is right, and I can fix it if it gets scratched or scuffed.

jp

Damn True
10-11-2005, 11:00 AM
Eggwash, dredge in a mixture of garlic, chile, salt & pepper, another eggwash, dredge in japanese breadcrumbs and deep fry. Serve with a white gravy and biscuits.

Super-yummy.

joehammbone
10-19-2005, 01:07 PM
Mmmmmm!!! That sounds to good but maybe I'll try it.
I'd like to try the home powder coating for all of my small parts but
Does the powder coating in your oven pose any threats to health, Ex Fumes or gasses? Thanks

toxicz28
10-19-2005, 04:36 PM
Does the powder coating in your oven pose any threats to health, Ex Fumes or gasses? Thanks

They (Eastwood) say on their site not to do it in an ove that is used to prepare food. When I did my powdercoating, it was at a shop that had an air intake system right over the oven, so I don't know what kind of vapors were released. As a word of advice, I wouldn't do it in my kitchen oven.

joehammbone
10-19-2005, 07:43 PM
thanks, I was wondering. it seemed to good to be true and I wasn't excited about what came out afterwards. I think I'll just use por-15 since i'm a poor college kid :nopity: Thanks for the reply

BuddyP
10-19-2005, 10:46 PM
Powder coat, look great and is very durable. Just had my front end parts powder coated. Here's some pics....

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11324

khool67G-Machine
10-22-2005, 07:06 AM
Hey Buddy. Your parts look great. I actually powdercoated all of my parts too up front. But only the ones that would fit in your typical household oven. So I was wondering, what did it cost you to get that front clip powdercoated. I wanted to do that to mine, but I did not want to pay the cost. Thought about taking to my place of work. The product we build are all powdercoated and I could have it media blasted and coated in like 30 min. But I'm just curious on what something like that cost.

yody
10-22-2005, 10:20 AM
find a local place near industrial area, the cheapest powdercoaters are the one with huge facilities, that do big industrial stuff, they just throw your stuff in along with the big stuff, i had my subframe, upper/lower control arms, crossshafts and spindles done for $325, the small shops that a small oven are always a rip off

BRIAN
10-22-2005, 02:42 PM
POR is expensive and really just not worth it. The best rattle can quick dry paint is Krylon. They have a semi gloss black that wears like iron. I have even sprayed it over bare metal with zero problems on East Coast driver. It looks like GM satin black and you honestly cant screw up the application. Touch up just a little blast and it dries to a perfect blend. Hate to say it but it is easier to apply and wera sbetter than some of the PPG stuff I use. Wish they made it in quarts. They used to but haven't seen in years. It is that good.

Marty G Cars
10-23-2005, 03:35 AM
I used primer and Eastwood chassis black on my sand blasted stock arms for my 68.

vanzuuk1
10-23-2005, 04:26 AM
Why do some people rave about POR 15 and some people hate it? It seems to polarize everyone, does it work or not? I tried the search feature , no luck.

Rick Dorion
10-23-2005, 05:38 AM
Good question. I've used it extensively (underneath floors, subframe, etc) with good results. Due to it's toxicity and multi-product application requirements, I went to Rust Bullet for the rear underneath when I dropped the tank last winter and was very pleased. I top coated with Rustoleum 7777 but will try Krylon. The Rustoleum dries slowly and doesn't seem to harden as well as Rust Bullet, etc.

shoddy_f-body
10-23-2005, 12:01 PM
I would go powdercoat or else epoxy prime followed by catalyzed acrylic enamel(add flattener to suit you if you so desire). The spray cans and even POR 15 are all well and good but aint going to hold up. First drip of brake fluid on POR or Krylon will wrinkle it like it was paint stripper dripped on there. Krylon can be rubbed off with wax and grease remover.Any kind of engine degreaser or even a cleaner like Castrol Super Clean will stain it.So if your going to go through the trouble of blasting the parts at least coeat them with something durable. I agree with the industrial powdercoater theory stated above. I went to one and paid $250 for the subframe, four a-arms,spindles,trans x member, centerlink and even threw in a hood latch plate for a Chevelle. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

John Monnin
10-23-2005, 01:34 PM
If you are near Napanee Indiana I have Amish Friend that does powdercoating. He can do an entire car frame and will sandblast it too. Since he does it in a barn he is not perfect but its better than anything out of a spray can.

I sandblasted and por-15 coated the control arms on my 69 cutlass. I used Marine Clean, to prep it too. I bet I spent almost $100 on everything POR recommended. The car was my daily driver and after 1 very nasty salty winter the control arms wer rusting. Now that powdercoating is available I would not mess with POR15. There is one dowwnside to powdercoating, it doesn't get into deep cracks or inside of pockets very well.

Some parts I had powdecoated Silvervien.

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Overall engine view
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