"Mechanix Menace": An LS7-motivated, chopped and heavily modified 1973 Datsun 240Z

[chevyz240]

220485

101943

This thread describes what has taken up a lot of my free time (on and off) for more than 30!!!! years, my Datsun 240 Z. The relationship with the car is really of the love/hate type! Well, for better or worse, here's some documentation of what you can do if you really are a freak, like me!

I initially had this build thread at CarDomain, beginning in 2004. All those old posts have been copied over to Pro-Touring. So, while the posting date is new, a lot of it happened a long time ago. I will of course continue updating the project here.

Note: Some of the pictures are clickable for higher resolution.

I've owned the car since 1988. I ran it in stock condition in the summer of -89. After a few years, I put it on the street again with a Chevy 350 and a Muncie M21. The engine has been dynoed to 410 hp.

If you're interested in all the details of the car, please keep on reading! I am going to update my page continuously, so please check back. Questions and comments are welcome!



This is one of the first stumbling attempts in Photoshop! :)

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This is how the photo looked before doctoring it. As you can see, the Torque Thrusts are placed in front of the car, and I've put boards under the car to simulate the ride height I'm hopefully going to be able to attain, with quite a few mods to the suspension and floor pan.

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Here you can see the status of the car as of October 2004, when I started the Car Domain build thead. The car is seeing daylight for the first time in two and a half years!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334491838_3499ccbaf5_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQG221)P1010001liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQG221) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//)



Follow along to see the development of the car since I bought it on 12/20/88!



This is what I brought home a few days before Christmas! The car was imported from California the summer before, by the guy that I bought it from. It had a 260 Z motor in it. It had almost no rust, except for the floor pan, that had been repaired terribly. I guess that the dried-out weather-stripping made the car leak in a lot of water that collected on the floor.

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After some work during the winter, this is what the car looked like in the summer of -89. Back then it was my everyday car. It ran OK, and I and a friend went on a road trip to Paris, France. I also made a lap on the Nürburgring Nordschleife!

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[chevyz240]

Since I had taken on too big a project in building a tube framed, chopped top, Chevy SB motivated, Volvo 122 Amazon, which never seemed to be finished, I made the decision to drop the Chevy SB in the Datsun to have a fun car to drive the next summer, while work commenced on the Amazon. Yeah right... Some people never learn, eh, Mister Positive Thinking?

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This is what the Volvo should have looked like, when finished. That unfortunately never happened, as I parted the project out in pieces. The guy who bought the body was going to build a caravan of it, towing it behind the chopped Volvo 122 Amazon he already had!!!!

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What ended up in the Z's spacious engine compartment was this Chevy 350 with AFR 220 heads, Victor Jr, Holley 750 DP, Crower roller rockers, among other parts. The headers I built have 35" long 1 3/4" primaries dumping into 3" collectors, which in turn are connected to a custom built dual 3" exhaust system with custom mufflers. If you look carefully, you can see part of the block lightening that I did. This was inspired by Smokey Yunick's (RIP, you old cheater!) book Power Secrets. The block was relieved of 10 pounds of cast iron.

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The engine installed in the car, after initial start up, with everything temporarily hooked up. After a lot more work than I had anticipated, the car was back on the road again in -96. I ran it with the V8 for two years, before deciding on chopping the roof (a disease caught when doing the Volvo), and putting a roll cage in. Again, this was supposed to be done during one winter. Hrrrmmppff...

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After having made hundreds of renderings of the car in chopped mode (a few of them can be seen here), both cutting, pasting and drawing on real photos, and doing simple CAD sketches, I had a pretty good idea of how I wanted the car to look. I wanted it to look like it was meant to be that way from the factory, not to look like it had actually been chopped.

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In order to get the sleek lines I was looking for, the windshield had to be laid back. Using my "ideal" rendering, see pic, I cut the entire roof off, lowered it about 3" and shortened it at the top of the windshield to get the windshield slope I was looking for. (In this sketch, the car has also been sectioned, in a way; the rockers have been made lower by raising the floor, and the suspension has been radically lowered. While this is the way I really like the car to look, it involves way to much work. All the suspension pickup points have to be moved, the motor needs a super shallow dry sump oil pan, there is no space for the exhaust system (or me, the height of the car being around 41") and so on. In reality the car will have to be slightly higher. Oohh, the agony I have gone through contemplating all this!

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[chevyz240]

After positioning the roof where I wanted it to be, and shortening it to get the windshield slope I was looking for, I made a simple windshield template out of some tubing. I then searched the wrecking yards to try to find a windshield with the correct curvature. I ended up using one from a Peugeot 309. (You Americans probably have never seen one, which is no great loss!) The beauty of it was that, not only did it have the correct curvature, but if I let the base of it stick down in the cowl, I didn't even have to cut it to shape! This is wonderful, since cutting a windshield usually means breaking a few, before you get one that stays in one piece.

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I then made a new windshield frame to place the glass flush with the sheet metal. The glass will be glued to the body, instead of using weather-stripping. The front of the roof also had to be modified to get a smooth transition to the windshield. As I want the roll cage to be as invisible as possible, plus being placed as far out against the body as possible, due to strength and stiffness issues, all stock roof pillars and beams are discarded. Instead, the roof is welded directly on the roll cage tubing.

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The cage is made of SAE 4130 chrome moly tubing. The home made bender I used for the Volvo wasn't up to the job, so I had to get a new one in the States, when I was there on a business trip. I bought one from Pro Tools that works well. I work as a design engineer at Öhlins Racing, designing shock absorbers for, among other things, NASCAR use. I also go to tests and races, which has given me a few memorable moments, such as riding with Tony Stewart in his Winston Cup car on a short track, sitting on the floor, with no seat, safety belt or helmet. Intelligent, right? If I had wanted, I could have reached out and filed my nails against the wall, going by at 150 mph!

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Here you can see how the windshield sticks down in the cowl. While putting the windshield in this way, I realized I could design a hidden wiper system, if I integrated the cowl panel with the hood. The silly lids in the fenders will also be a part of the new hood. This is something that will clean up the looks, I think.

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[chevyz240]

In May 2002, I had the roll cage tack welded enough to take the car down from the jack stands, where I had it carefully leveled. I winched the car up on the street, put on the roof, the hood and a door and a fender, to see what it would look like. The car hadn't seen daylight for several years, so this was a big psychological step! It looks a bit funky with the high stance, due to it not having the engine, interior and so on, in it.

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With some cool 17" wheels placed in front of the car, some boards underneath it, to simulate a lower ride height, and a cardboard spoiler, it definitely starts to look pretty good, don't you think? With some work on the computer, I ended up with my lead picture on this site. This decision, to pull the car up on the street and take these pictures, for sure was a good one. These pictures are what has kept my faith in the project through the darkest moments, when contemplating giving up cars and starting to collect stamps or spending my evenings looking at soap operas instead!

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Due to head clearance issues, there is not much space for a proper roof diagonal bar in the cage. Instead, I put this longitudinal bar in, and added some corner reinforcements. In addition, the roof was welded to the cage via 33 pieces of flat iron stock, each one with 3 spot welds, giving 99 spot welds total. I think this will be at least as strong and stiff as a diagonal bar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334983098_d1b1702e32_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJx41)P2040021liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJx41) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The roof is being welded to the cage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334982998_ed5285d01e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJx2h)P3030001liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJx2h) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

This is what it looks like from below. Each flat piece of bar stock had to be individually filed to the correct shape and thickness to make it fit to the roof sheet metal with minimal gap.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520131694_27351e9180_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o86thb)P3030007liten (https://flic.kr/p/o86thb) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



A view of the rear part of the cabin, with the bracing of the rear strut towers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334982168_a1b8a26310_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJwLY)P3030006liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJwLY) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here, the roof cut is clearly visible. The roof is not cut in the middle, to widen and lengthen it. Instead, the windshield is laid back, as already described, and the side windows are tilted in more. This means that I haven't had to do any welding in the middle of the roof, which is nice. The rear hatch and the rear window are also stock. The entire roof has been tilted forward.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334954349_13b91c1875_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJovk)P3030010liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJovk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



With most of the temporary bracing of the roof taken away, it starts to look more like a car. The lines are starting to show!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14335111017_439f40ae21_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQKc5v)P3030012liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQKc5v) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

The roof cut is welded up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498455046_0419ef5003_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o6bnyS)P3280012liten (https://flic.kr/p/o6bnyS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The lower part of the stock A-pillar is connected to the roll cage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521551985_b00da1863f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8dKtX)P3280002liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8dKtX) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The C-pillar is being built up again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520131084_4d29f2980a_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o86t6E)P3290050liten (https://flic.kr/p/o86t6E) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Again, in the interest of having the cage as invisible as possible, and making the car as stiff and strong as possible, I decided to place the main hoop between the outer and inner sheet metal of the rear fenders. It also gives more room for the seats. This meant I had to cut open the door jambs to gain access to the area in question.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541670173_382e8135fe_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9ZRVg)P3280010liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9ZRVg) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

Since I will not have any roll-down door windows, I welded the gap in the top of the doors shut, stiffening them considerably.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334976808_bb7a345fd3_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJvby)P3300013liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJvby) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Although the car has surprisingly sturdy door beams, I decided to stiffen and strengthen the doors even more by welding sheet metal between the inner skin and the door beam. This is possible to do, since no window will ever again go down here. This is in the interest of safety, which I am a big fan of.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334900270_c8e17517aa_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ7qW)P3300023liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ7qW) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The front of the cage will intrude on the door space, for reasons I explained earlier, so this means that the door has to be cut up to accommodate the roll cage tubing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541627523_ae7b78f1f6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9ZDeV)P4110020liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9ZDeV) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here's a close-up of the cut-out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520450942_5e51e65a5d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o887bs)P4110018liten (https://flic.kr/p/o887bs) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[Cop Magnet]

Damn that's going to be nice!

[chevyz240]

The cut-out is being welded closed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14335064177_99a655d1f4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJX9V)P4130032liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJX9V) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here it is fully closed, still just tack welded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520054534_93f027e942_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o865kQ)P4130035liten (https://flic.kr/p/o865kQ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I made templates for the side windows, in order to get a smooth shape in this area. As with the windshield the side windows are going to be flush with the roof, and also with the door sheet metal. I put in a lot of effort getting all transitions between sheet metal and glass as smooth and seamless as possible. The templates will later be used to create bucks for shaping the Lexan or similar side windows. The angle-iron is used for holding the A-pillar's shape, before it is fully welded to the roll cage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334928829_226874556e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJfVk)P4250001liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJfVk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another view of the side window template.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334951088_bedc16749d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJnx7)P4250002liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJnx7) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

Here, I have started to weld the edge of the roof to the roll cage. The drip rail has gone to the blessed land.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520411862_91c5ceb4c4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o87UyE)P4250006liten (https://flic.kr/p/o87UyE) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Most of the sheet metal work on the driver side is done. Now, it's just a matter of duplicating it on the passenger side. Phew!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520411692_5b8a4da68e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o87UvJ)P4260010liten (https://flic.kr/p/o87UvJ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



View from the rear. The curvature of the roof side had to be modified, to give a smooth transition to the side glass.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498373746_f2d6fa35c5_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o6aXp9)P4260013liten (https://flic.kr/p/o6aXp9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



View from the front.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521470265_c75fc3f808_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8dkbZ)P4260021liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8dkbZ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

Close-up of the A-pillar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14335033837_6d58bc8c9f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJN8P)P4260020liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJN8P) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The work on the passenger side has started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334898748_41b938a473_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ6YG)P4270028liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ6YG) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I welded a strip of sheet metal to the side of the roof on the passenger side, to ease the transfer of the shape from the driver side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334881848_d7bb86de19_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ1Xj)P4300012liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ1Xj) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Templates were made to transfer the shape of the roof to the other side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520394142_2c99e47000_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o87Pi9)P5010016liten (https://flic.kr/p/o87Pi9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[Lygdman]

it looks good. Do you have the project on a Swedish site too?

[chevyz240]

Here is the roof edge that needed modifying to be symmetrical to the driver side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334881298_1e9502c52f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ1MQ)P5010024liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJ1MQ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



After getting the roof shape right, the edge was welded to the cage with a piece of sheet metal. Like I said before, all sheet metal is of the high strength type, about 3 times stronger than normal (old) car body sheet metal. Most sheet metal used is 0.7 mm thick, compared to the 1.0 mm that most people use.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14335009037_4010ca7d5d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJELe)P5010025liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJELe) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The passenger side A-pillar is mocked up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541569893_35782a8e7b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Zm7i)P5020007liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Zm7i) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



With the A-pillar tacked in place, the part connecting the A-pillar to the roof side can be shaped.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14518071651_b3ea68f3ce_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7UUUc)P5020024liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7UUUc) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

it looks good. Do you have the project on a Swedish site too?

Hi! No, I don't. But I'm currently in the process of copying around 200 pictures with text to this site.

[chevyz240]

This is a view from below, of the cross bar and diagonals in the dash area. Later, a removable triangulated strut brace in the engine compartment will attach to the intersection of these tubes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520375522_2376bf7b6d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o87HL7)P5030006liten (https://flic.kr/p/o87HL7) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The cowl/firewall had to be modified quite a bit, to fit it to the new windshield. Here, the edge is just rough cut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541553813_0ea0eb6f42_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Zgk4)P5040012liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Zgk4) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Most of the sheet metal connecting the roof and the windshield frame to the roll cage can be seen here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334836879_0af6fbce0e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQHMzZ)P5040015liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQHMzZ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The windshield is being mocked up in the correct position, in preparation for the construction of a curved beam that will act as lower windshield frame. Since the cowl has been weakened by the cutting away of some sheet metal, I decided to make this beam fairly large in cross section. The line on the windshield shows where the hood edge will be. This gives some space to park the wipers in a hidden position below the hood.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334990957_51bc099a81_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJzov)P5040019liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJzov) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

The new seats are carefully positioned in place. It was a bit tricky to get a good driving position, without hitting the roof, especially with a helmet on. Most racing seats are a bit too upright to be ideal. If I am going to raise the floor in the future, as was discussed initially, I will either have to buy single seater type seats, or make my own. Also, the "bat wings" of the seats barely clear the doors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334805739_2b8124865c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQHCk6)P1180037liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQHCk6) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The sheet metal work on the roof and the door on the passenger side is also finished here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520349932_8750369456_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o87A9U)P1180036liten (https://flic.kr/p/o87A9U) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The beam making up the lower part of the windshield frame is finished.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498312216_ba65a5e276_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o6aD7h)P1180041liten (https://flic.kr/p/o6aD7h) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here's a front view of the beam. You can also see that I have started cleaning up the cowl area.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521403375_61fa2941e8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8cZiH)P1180024liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8cZiH) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

Due to the front cross bar of the cage intruding on the dashboard area, the stock dash can no longer be used. As I like the look of it, I plan on making a similar looking dashboard out of glass- or carbon fiber in the future. For now, a temporary wood and masonite dash will do. The new dash is attached to the cross bar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334929927_bce7881f07_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJgfg)P1010011liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJgfg) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The layout of the instruments is sketched on the dash. I concentrated on the visibility of the dials more than the aesthetics of the layout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517995061_68ee203917_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Uw8F)P1010005liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Uw8F) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The top of the dash consists of a bent piece of masonite that will be removable, for easy access to the instruments, wiring harness, etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498279126_0117d25af6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o6atgL)P1010004liten (https://flic.kr/p/o6atgL) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The instruments are being put in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519956044_af52795ba8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o85z4J)P1010027liten (https://flic.kr/p/o85z4J) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

I covered the dash with grey vinyl. Looks decent, doesn't it?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541488853_3aae989beb_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9YW24)P3140006liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9YW24) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



In stead of using normal light bulbs for turn indicators and "idiot lights", I used LEDs. In case of the oil pressure light and shift light, I used the high intensity version. Although small, they emit a very bright light, which should be easily detected, even in daylight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334926567_bf83001163_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQJffk)P3200002liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQJffk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is my new wiper arrangement. I used wipers from the current Volkswagen Passat, which are very low. That's needed for them to clear the hood in the parked position. Of course, I hade to cut the wiper blades down and make a new linkage, new wiper shafts etc. to make everything work. In all, around 40-50 hours work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334624740_cd5924840f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQGGwq)DSC00781liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQGGwq) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here's a bird's-eye view of the linkage and the motor with its bracket. I placed it under the dash, to clean up the cowl area (and for weight distribution).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541386913_d1eea9230a_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9YpHt)DSC00773liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9YpHt) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[snopro]

This thing is going to be a weapon. Nice cage work

[lucky13firebird]

that thing is NUTS! I LOVE IT. its got amazing lines and that thing'll fly...

[Dave B]

Holy cow....nice work, a lot of it....wow.

[Ripper]

Amazing work! I didn't realize you were a swede ;) until I saw the license plate on the 944.
I was sick and tired of sheet metal work when I finished my body, but this thread actually created a desire for sheet metal work again...

[chevyz240]

Amazing work! I didn't realize you were a swede ;) until I saw the license plate on the 944.
I was sick and tired of sheet metal work when I finished my body, but this thread actually created a desire for sheet metal work again...

Thanks Anders! Your Firebird is quite a project too!

/Henrik

[19,69camaro]

Very inspirational. Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work!

[chevyz240]

Very inspirational. Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work!

Thanks Aldin!

More pictures and info are on the way!

Henrik

[chevyz240]

Next step was to make a fiberglass hood. Here, everything is being test fitted. I had to cut the stock hood frame at several places, since the hood shape didn't match the fenders perfectly. I then welded on the cowl panel, and the fender lids.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334624640_f5461285e9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQGGuG)DSC00770liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQGGuG) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Then, it was just a matter of putting on bondo and sanding everything until the shape was OK. I took care in shaping the back edge of the hood, so there will be an even 10 mm (3/8") gap to the windshield. This is where fresh air to the cabin will be taken in. I also had to redo the rear edge of the fenders to make a nice transition to the hood.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498047946_55104b232a_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o69hxU)P4150013liten (https://flic.kr/p/o69hxU) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



While I was at it, I did some bodywork on the rear part of the front fenders too. They will eventually be made in fiberglass (or carbon) too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519724424_b81ae9b49d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o84odh)P4150022liten (https://flic.kr/p/o84odh) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The hood buck is waxed and ready for the mold work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334569538_4447fe3257_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQGq7E)P4200003liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQGq7E) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[MSTSFabbed]

Dang son! Nice work, those lines are gonna look good! For half the first page I didn't even realize you had chopped the top. Well done. Keep us posted!

[ChevelleNV]

Wow.....

[rfalker1]

this is sick!!!! I want one now!!

[BurtRenolds]

What design are you going with in the rear end?

[chevyz240]

What design are you going with in the rear end?

If you mean body design, I haven't really decided yet, but I'm leaning towards a retractable spoiler that's going to be fully invisible when retracted. If you mean suspension design, the car will have a custom built A-arm suspension all around. I'm using a third member from a BMW E34 M5. I used that already when I ran the car with the 350.

[chevyz240]

The gelcoat has been rolled on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334724529_591deaba8c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQHdbV)DSC00836liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQHdbV) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here, I have released the mold from the buck, and cut open the gaps to the fenders. I intentionally made the mold over-size, so the fender gaps can be trimmed to be as small and even as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14498046206_134e538391_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o69h2U)P1010011liten (https://flic.kr/p/o69h2U) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The mold is waxed and ready for the actual hood-making.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520077672_8c5c5f5480_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o86cdL)P1010012liten (https://flic.kr/p/o86cdL) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is the underside of the hood with its stiffening frame, before the final layers of fiberglass.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541257303_ea834969dc_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9XKbP)P6140023liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9XKbP) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

All fiberglass has been laid on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520076852_a2b072ba6e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o86bYC)P6140026liten (https://flic.kr/p/o86bYC) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



As an experiment, I put on some extra layers of polyester and sanded the stiffening frame and the outer part of the hood's underside smooth. It turned out quite well. I didn't do it to the entire hood though, as I am regarding this hood as a temporary solution. I am thinking about making one in carbon fiber, but we'll see. You have to stop somewhere, right?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334691857_b1dbbe1fd8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQH3tB)P1010011liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQH3tB) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is what the final product looks like, with roughed-out edges, to fit the fenders. It weighs 6.6 kg (14 lbs) (without hinge brackets and latch bracket), compared to the corresponding steel pieces 19 kg (42 lbs). I am not sure if it's stiff enough to not bend from the aerodynamic forces at high speed, but I guess I'll find that out!

95972



Since I bought me a Porsche 944 Turbo this spring, I had to somehow store it indoors during the winter. I decided on enlarging my one-car garage by tearing down two walls to the neighboring rooms; the sauna and the laundry room. Of course, the sauna got totally torn down, but I didn't use it that much anyway.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520240832_d26183d987_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o872HS)PA090004liten (https://flic.kr/p/o872HS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[gardnerme]

Consider me "subscribed"! I have had the itch to build one of these old Zs for a few months now, albeit not nearly as modified as yours. That thing is going to be beautiful when it is all done.

[lucky13firebird]

Fiberglass hoods are one of the best weight savings upgrades anyone can do. Yes they're a little flexible but losing 35-45 lbs off the front is a big deal. You lost 25 and that's with a car that's already a featherweight.... good work man.

[DocSean]

All fiberglass has been laid on.


As an experiment, I put on some extra layers of polyester and sanded the stiffening frame and the outer part of the hood's underside smooth. It turned out quite well. I didn't do it to the entire hood though, as I am regarding this hood as a temporary solution. I am thinking about making one in carbon fiber, but we'll see. You have to stop somewhere, right?





This is what the final product looks like, with roughed-out edges, to fit the fenders. It weighs 6.6 kg (14 lbs) (without hinge brackets and latch bracket), compared to the corresponding steel pieces 19 kg (42 lbs). I am not sure if it's stiff enough to not bend from the aerodynamic forces at high speed, but I guess I'll find that out!

please don't stop

[FLYNAVY53]

very cool build

[Martin71RS]

WOW Henrik, I love what you've done to the car sofar and can't wait to see how it turns out!

[72BBSwinger]

Garage isnt big enough? I have a sledge hammer!!! You are awesome!

[chevyz240]

Thanks all of you guys for the positive comments! It sure boosts the motivation! I still haven't posted the progress further than 2005, so a lot more is coming.

[gardnerme]

Thanks all of you guys for the positive comments! It sure boosts the motivation! I still haven't posted the progress further than 2005, so a lot more is coming.

Bring it!!

[chevyz240]

This is the view from the laundry room.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521086405_d91e94a6ed_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8bn5H)PA090005liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8bn5H) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



In order to park the Porsche in the inner part of the now two-car garage, the Datsun had to come down from the rotisserie. This was fairly easily accomplished by using two chain hoists.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519669284_a0d08bfa8e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o846PA)PA090015liten (https://flic.kr/p/o846PA) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Sitting on its wheels again for the first time in about two years!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519668974_7dccd5a059_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o846Jf)PA090017liten (https://flic.kr/p/o846Jf) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



View from the street.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497993056_2429d511c6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o691ew)PA090022liten (https://flic.kr/p/o691ew) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

On Oct 10, 2005, a friend helped me tow the Z-car out from the garage and up on the street. This was the first time the car saw daylight in almost two and a half years! It was also the first time I was able to view the car from more than a few feet away, with the metalwork on the roof mostly done. I feel that it looks the way I planned it to look. You also get a good view of the fiberglass hood, and the narrow slot against the windshield. I think it looks a lot cleaner without the different panel gaps, fresh air louvers and the wipers, don't you?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334491838_3499ccbaf5_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQG221)P1010001liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQG221) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another side view, similar to the one heading my site. For sure, the car looks kinda funny with the high stance, but that will be rectified later!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519646414_f8b4cac88e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83Z2h)P1010003liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83Z2h) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



In this view, I think the clean look of the car with the new hood is even more obvious.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519645964_bb9cd85fe4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83YTw)P1010004liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83YTw) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Rear view.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334613857_ea708c1dac_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQGDhM)P1010011liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQGDhM) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



And a top view!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519647174_0690d18df3_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83Zfo)P1010036liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83Zfo) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[dangina]

you have done some amazing work here! I didn't think the 240z could look any better! just awesome!!!

[Ant]

Amazing work. Can't wait for more

[Widetrax]

Awesome work!! I have a 260Z that I need to give some attention, but nothing like yours! I thought that widening my 68 firebird 6inches in the rear was involved. But you really fabricate like a pro!!Please keep up the good work!

[chevyz240]

Thanks all you guys! Widetrax, I like your widened rear fenders, are the fronts going to be widened too?

[Widetrax]

Henrik,
Thanks! Yes I do, at least 2 inches, but I will need to find some more old fenders to play with. I have seen it done in so many different ways I am not sure which style to do them.Also I want to notch the subframe for more turning radius. I want to use at least 10 inch wide wheels on the front.

[chevyz240]

Henrik,
Thanks! Yes I do, at least 2 inches, but I will need to find some more old fenders to play with. I have seen it done in so many different ways I am not sure which style to do them.Also I want to notch the subframe for more turning radius. I want to use at least 10 inch wide wheels on the front.

Width the increased track to fill out the fenders, do you really need to notch the subframe?

[Widetrax]

I though of that, but looking at my subframe it has rub marks on it from the tires on the stock steel wheels. So I figured it would not be hard to fabricate some 1/4 wall pipe notches into it while I have it off for additional welding and gusseting( what Mark Stielow does), and changing the body mounts. Also I am kind of one of those people, if large is good then I will push it to XL! Like the back of the car, I moved the quarter panels out 3 inches, I also mini tubbed it 2 3/4 inches for a total of 18 inches off wheel tub. So if a 12 inch wheel will fit, then I will go bigger on the front, and have room for it.

[chevyz240]

I though of that, but looking at my subframe it has rub marks on it from the tires on the stock steel wheels. So I figured it would not be hard to fabricate some 1/4 wall pipe notches into it while I have it off for additional welding and gusseting( what Mark Stielow does), and changing the body mounts. Also I am kind of one of those people, if large is good then I will push it to XL! Like the back of the car, I moved the quarter panels out 3 inches, I also mini tubbed it 2 3/4 inches for a total of 18 inches off wheel tub. So if a 12 inch wheel will fit, then I will go bigger on the front, and have room for it.

Sounds reasonable! :)

[chevyz240]

February 26, 2005. This is the mechanism that will open the hood around 1.5 inches when the wipers are turned on. Since they are concealed below the hood, this is necessary to give them space enough operate. Here the mechanism is seen in the down position. The aluminum bracket with holes in it will be bonded to the underside of the hood. There will be locking pins sliding in the Teflon pieces which are screwed to the stainless plates. Both the Teflon pieces and the stainless steel plates have been water-cut.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497943376_d2427658ed_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o68KsY)IMG_0154liten (https://flic.kr/p/o68KsY) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The motor that operates the mechanism is placed low on the passenger side on the inside of the firewall. The motion is transferred via a pushrod.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521036885_75350a294e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8b7mV)IMG_0155liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8b7mV) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here the hood is in the down position...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497942596_468c51276d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o68Kew)IMG_0156liten (https://flic.kr/p/o68Kew) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...and here it's in the up position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334464408_1737dd3f30_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFSS5)IMG_0157liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFSS5) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another view of how much the hood is raised to allow wiper operation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519619634_a07bafb02b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83R4y)IMG_0158liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83R4y) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here the mechanism is seen in the up position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334463798_6aed17ee3e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFSFy)IMG_0161liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFSFy) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The brackets for the locking pins have been bonded to the underside of the hood.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334391470_3f5c048f63_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFvbw)IMG_0162liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFvbw) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 13, 2005. The hood latch mechanism has been completed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517623441_5e1af99ab9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7SBEr)IMG_0173liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7SBEr) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



One of the locking pins in the locked position. As can be seen it is kept in the locked position by a spring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521002885_3543796abc_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8aWfH)IMG_0174liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8aWfH) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here it is in the unlocked position. The little piece of wood is a stop for the hood when it is closed. It positions the hood so the locking pins automatically snap in to their respective guide grooves when the latch is released. The piece of wood and the aluminum bracket will be covered by a few layers of fiberglass to reinforce the area.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334356790_cefa50d296_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFjSA)IMG_0177liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFjSA) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is the handle for the latch mechanism in the locked position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519939952_cd97d0d901_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o85uhh)IMG_0179liten (https://flic.kr/p/o85uhh) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here the handle is pulled and the locking pins are pulled in their unlocked positions by wires.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541121863_b330200089_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9X3VD)IMG_0178liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9X3VD) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



A view from the cowl area below the hood. Both the latch mechanism and the raising mechanism can be seen. The hood is here in the raised position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497907656_cae0bbe1be_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o68yR7)IMG_0187liten (https://flic.kr/p/o68yR7) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



As seen from the passenger side...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334431648_032a1d857f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFH8f)IMG_0184liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFH8f) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Yet another view from below the hood.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14521001575_4843e1e2d4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8aVS8)IMG_0188liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8aVS8) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



And this is what it looks like when the hood is opened.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334555527_2280e4cc73_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQGkX6)IMG_0193liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQGkX6) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 15, 2005. Here I am testing wiper operation. After some clearancing work, the wipers can move freely without hitting anything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541101603_5b13b29a6c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9WWUk)IMG_0196liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9WWUk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



As seen from behind...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519564144_4754ec7346_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83yyQ)IMG_0198liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83yyQ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...and from the front.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519564344_a773c9e305_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83yCh)IMG_0201liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83yCh) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I intend to create a system of relays and micro switches that automatically raises the hood when the wipers are turned on and lowers it when they are switched off. In addition I think that front end lift and drag may be improved with the hood in the raised position. I will test this when the car is back on the streets again. If that's the case, I may raise the hood during performance driving!

[chevyz240]

March 21, 2005. As I wrote before, I intend to make all windows flush with the body. They will eventually be made out of double curvature Lexan or similar. Here, the upper part of the attachment frame for the rear quarter window is being held in place with a piece of board.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517523031_5ea8ed7ff0_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7S6Pe)IMG_0223liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7S6Pe) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The upper part has been welded in place, and the lower part is checked for fit here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497807236_61f1d6a7f2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o683ZJ)IMG_0224liten (https://flic.kr/p/o683ZJ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The lower part also has been welded to the body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14540987923_9590d593fe_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wn7k)IMG_0225liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wn7k) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is what the final product looks like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519450444_04e92aa526_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o82YLu)IMG_0226liten (https://flic.kr/p/o82YLu) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another view that also shows how the frame has been integrated with the roll cage. Eventually, the curved window will be glued to a composite frame, that in turn will be screwed to the attachment frame from the inside. For this summer (I hope), a temporary solution will be flat Lexan screwed directly to the steel frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517538991_661c2f98e0_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Sbyp)IMG_0218liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Sbyp) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 22, 2005. The door windows will be fixed to a frame that will be removable from the door, when cruising or driving during extremely hot conditions. The frame will be held in place by two welded-in stainless tubes at the top of the door.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334296138_b53715489e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQF1QS)IMG_0232liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQF1QS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



In order to get the two tubes in the door parallel, a jig is made out of square tubing and two pieces of round bar stock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334221470_e7c570bfda_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQECDu)IMG_0234liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQECDu) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here the two tubes have been welded to the top of the door.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334353379_56b5b196c6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFiRM)IMG_0246liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFiRM) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



These are the pieces of square tubing that will make up the door window frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334385648_e948acc8d2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFts9)IMG_0248liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFts9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I am starting the welding of the window frame by aligning the rear part with the door pillar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541070043_67f4e9780c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9WMwc)IMG_0249liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9WMwc) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Next up is the upper part of the window frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334352809_8f0f40791f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFiFX)IMG_0252liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFiFX) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Here's the rear part all aligned and ready for welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334377918_8672afb36a_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFr9S)IMG_0253liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFr9S) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



With the upper rear corner welded, the front part of the upper tubing is aligned.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14541070403_9a28b453c9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9WMCp)IMG_0256liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9WMCp) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 25, 2005. After the square tubing is welded together, triangular reinforcements are welded to the lower part of the window frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14540954323_19f2e6af24_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wc82)IMG_0267liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wc82) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is what the final product looks like from the front...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14540953933_a494b992d9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wc1i)IMG_0271liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Wc1i) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...and the rear!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14520830835_60bc71d543_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8a47k)IMG_0281liten (https://flic.kr/p/o8a47k) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The two tubes locating the window frame in the door are seen here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517452901_cf113c23e6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7RJY6)IMG_0283liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7RJY6) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



With a quick operation the entire window can be lifted out. Some type of latching mechanism will be added to secure the window in place. I will also make a couple of racks to store the windows safely in the trunk when running with "open" windows.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334264388_fc941b874b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQERps)IMG_0284liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQERps) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another view of the window frame in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517454311_8b22c614ff_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7RKop)IMG_0286liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7RKop) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

April 3, 2005. Here's a close-up of all the fabrication done to accommodate part of the roll cage in the door.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334376437_7aca73494a_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQFqHk)IMG_0294liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQFqHk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

April 10, 2005. I am starting to cover the "dash pad" in black suede, to reduce glare from the windshield. Since this part has to be possible to bend to mount in the car, a channel for the air to the defroster vents is made out of rubber sheet. A sheet metal frame is sewn in, where a duct will connect it to the fan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334205669_54201ef307_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQExX4)IMG_0295liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQExX4) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I use heavy duty velcro to secure the dash pad to the dash board.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334205369_9281b01e06_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQExRT)IMG_0299liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQExRT) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The final product with the defroster vent holes clearly visible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14497704136_3b85614b8f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o67wm9)IMG_0300liten (https://flic.kr/p/o67wm9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Another view of the dash.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334154730_3062747c71_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQEhNN)IMG_0303liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQEhNN) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



For now, I am using the stock, heavy fan. I am building a temporary duct out of cardboard and duct tape. The shape gets a bit complicated since there are roll cage tubes in the way, and I want it to be as aerodynamically efficient as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14519735492_ea0effb6ae_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o84rv7)IMG_0304liten (https://flic.kr/p/o84rv7) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The duct is finished...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14517418921_72960ed125_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7RySe)IMG_0306liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7RySe) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...and here it is in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334205939_f613cea0e2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQEy2H)IMG_0310liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQEy2H) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

November 07, 2005. After the summer it's time to start working on the project again. Here, I have rigged up the car at roughly the ride height I am hoping to be able to run when it's finally done. Low, isn't it!?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/14334146280_362f6651a0_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQEfi7)IMG_0896liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQEfi7) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[Ripper]

Amazing... I'm speechless.

[chevyz240]

April 30, 2006. After a winter with no major progress, I put the car on wheels and tow it out of the garage in order for me to take out the Porsche that's parked in behind it. It is always inspiring to see the car from some distance in daylight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14540847173_90923ce898_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9VDgB)IMG_1112liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9VDgB) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

September 29, 2006. This Friday afternoon, a mysterious crate appears in my driveway...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14520711195_e771fc4668_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o89rxz)IMG_2075liten (https://flic.kr/p/o89rxz) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Chevy part number aficionados may realize what this is...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14540834083_fa056320c6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9VznV)IMG_2079liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9VznV) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



... an LS7 crate motor!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334119049_ba6b549396_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQE7cB)IMG_2107liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQE7cB) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Ever since I read that GM was going to sell the new LS7 as a crate motor, I couldn't get the thought of maybe getting one for myself out of my mind. Reading more about it, seeing it at the PRI show, and finally riding in a Z06, convinced me that although the initial outlay may be considered hefty, this is something I must have. The way the Z06 pulls from just above idle to redline is quite impressive. Since my car will be 500-600 lbs lighter than the Corvette, the performance should be quite OK!

The light weight of the motor, the dry-sump oiling, the fuel mileage, the dependability, and the potential for further performance enhancements are a few of the traits that made me take the plunge. How I am going to get the car through inspection here in Sweden with this motor is something I will have to think about though! In the worst case I can use the old motor for that purpose.

This is something I don't want the inspection people to see! Just 3 times the stock displacement...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14519299374_dfbc2af608_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o82cRQ)IMG_2111liten (https://flic.kr/p/o82cRQ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

October 21, 2006.

It's suddenly fall again, and time to get the project going once more! After lots of thinking about how much work I am going to put in the car, I decided to widen the car quite bit, even though it is going to take a lot of work. If I have spent 15+ years working on the car, I might as well take the extra time to get it the way I really want it.

I order to get the car low and wide, the rear wheel wells need to be modified. I start by taking the rear suspension off. The BMW M5 third member and the shortened Beemer half-shafts with their adapters can be seen here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14519288854_d43179c3cc_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o829Js)IMG_2200liten (https://flic.kr/p/o829Js) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is the half-shaft I have been using. As I am intending to design new suspension front and rear, I will design the rear suspension for stock length BMW half-shafts. This will have the benefit of not needing to weaken the shafts by shortening them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334058200_41345bd292_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDN7u)IMG_2207liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDN7u) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

December 11, 2006. The fender lip and the outer part of the wheel well has been cut off and replaced with horizontal sheet metal. This will enable a wider track and a low ride height.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334116458_6717eea304_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6qW)IMG_2302liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6qW) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is what it looks like with the car right side up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334116078_b81185fa64_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6jo)IMG_2305liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6jo) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Preferably, I should have raised the entire wheel well in order to give as much space for the rear tires as possible, but that would have been quite a bit of work. Instead, the new sheet metal is angled slightly upward from the inner wheel housing, taking into consideration the camber gain during wheel travel. This will provide as much space as possible for the tires without too much work. I will still have to make a compromise between ride height and compression travel though. In the end, I think it will be OK.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334116908_f52405beee_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6yG)IMG_2306liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQE6yG) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



After endless hours of trying to decide on what track width to run, I think I have decided on around 1600 mm (63"). This will be good for road holding purposes, and it will also enable me to build a side-exiting exhaust system concealed behind the rocker panels. This may be the only way to get a decent sized system with the ground clearance I intend to run. There is not going to be space enough in the transmission tunnel. Another solution would be to route the exhaust above the transmission. We will see... Also, the car will probably look cool with it's newfound width!

[chevyz240]

December 26, 2006. Here, I have mocked up a wheel to get a feel for how wide the car will be, and to try to imagine how to widen the body in a good looking way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14540801873_c034c49037_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9VpNz)IMG_2325liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9VpNz) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

January 6, 2007. Another view with a rear wheel mocked up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334080869_940be11d90_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDURk)IMG_2375liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDURk) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

January 20, 2007. Starting to mock up the LS7 in the engine compartment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14519254434_ea50e6ee2e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o81Yv1)IMG_2429liten (https://flic.kr/p/o81Yv1) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

February 7, 2007. The LS7 has been mated to a T56 out of a 96 Camaro. Unfortunately, the flywheel and the clutch on the LS7 was so big, I had to cut part of the bellhousing off to be able to mount the tranny on the engine. I will have to weld the bellhousing up to fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14520662115_89bd562340_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o89bXn)IMG_2450liten (https://flic.kr/p/o89bXn) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 24, 2007. Even if I am planning to build a totally new suspension front and rear, I really would like drive the car soon. So in order to be able to do that, I have decided to put the stock suspension back on temporarily (a reoccuring word...), and install the LS7 with as little work as possible. Here, I have positioned the motor in the engine compartment and am starting to build new motor mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334009250_bff3f3303c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDxyw)IMG_2701liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDxyw) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



A little closer to being done...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334008870_5d90fa130c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDxrY)IMG_2707liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDxrY) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

March 25, 2007. The finished mounts. The tranny mount is also done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14540766203_8f0aa18327_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Vecz)IMG_2718liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Vecz) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



In this side view it's easy to see that the engine is positioned fairly far forward. This is also a temporary (there's that word again) solution, just so I don't have to shorten the driveshaft. Since the T56 is quite a bit longer than the M21 it replaces, it means the engine has to come forward.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14517267581_08d70d5487_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7QMSV)IMG_2720liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7QMSV) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

April 11, 2007. I am building a foot rest for the passenger, which will also house all relays, fuses and the different harness connectors on it's backside. To ease access the foot rest folds down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334044319_43b9418d49_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDHZa)IMG_2722liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDHZa) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

May 19, 2007. The yearly procedure of winching the Datsun up on the street takes place. This is to enable my Porsche to come out of hibernation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334051858_6931055dc8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDLe9)IMG_2797liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDLe9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The enlarged rear wheel wells are clearly seen.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14334026619_276e24e49b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQDCHZ)IMG_2800liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQDCHZ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickrhttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14519205654_05592d18c9_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o81HZY)IMG_2802liten (https://flic.kr/p/o81HZY) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

October 19, 2007. After some wiring work during the spring and the traditional summer break from the project, I am now concentrating on the work that needs to be done in order to start the engine. These are a pair of exhaust manifold flanges a company water cut for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14516414421_108fc7a8c1_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Lqgg)IMG_3230liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Lqgg) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I am reusing the rear half of the old exhaust system I built. Since I may need to reinstall my old motor when taking the car through inspection, I decided not to weld the new front half of the exhaust system to the rear half. Instead I will make a flanged connection here as well. These are the water cut flanges for that purpose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333197919_856bf7f9e2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQzoo4)IMG_3229liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQzoo4) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

October 21, 2007. The exhaust manifold flange has an oval opening. This oval shape needs to transfer to the round 3" tubing, while at the same time making a 90 degree turn. I am reshaping a standard 90 degree exhaust tubing elbow to match the radius of the opening in the exhaust flange. I also cut the tubing in half to enable sheet metal to be welded in to match the oval shape. Since I plan to build headers in the future this job isn't done to perfection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518373734_6e27d82191_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7WsGw)IMG_3248liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7WsGw) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

October 22, 2007. The gap is filled with sheet metal...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518356514_e3a55b126d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7WnzC)IMG_3254liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7WnzC) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333120500_2fe0f906fe_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQyZnf)IMG_3253liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQyZnf) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...,everything is seam welded...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333325257_339a786fea_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQA3ex)IMG_3256liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQA3ex) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...,and the welds are ground...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518701362_662e90b071_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Y96h)IMG_3259liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Y96h) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



...,on the inside as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539884733_d0605e6299_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9QHaP)IMG_3264liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9QHaP) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

December 28, 2007. This is the finished product after all welding and grinding is done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539874723_d12ea9222d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9QEce)IMG_3293liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9QEce) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


The exhaust is tucked up as high as possible in the transmission tunnel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539874363_cda11b055f_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9QE62)IMG_3295liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9QE62) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

January 04, 2008. After some careful thinking, I have decided to place the Peterson dry sump tank in the left front wheel well. This is roughly the same placement the Z06 Corvette uses, so there shouldn't be any oiling issues. If the tank was placed in the trunk, which would be better for weight distribution, there might be problems with the suction stage of the oil pump during heavy acceleration, which the car hopefully will see lots of!

The bottom of the tank will be sitting in the wheel well, and the top will protrude through the sheet metal and come up in the stock battery location. Here, a cardboard template for a stiffening flange is made.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333155179_f4c8817199_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQzaFa)IMG_3305liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQzaFa) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is the actual steel flange before welding it to the wheel well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333155419_d1864d4ae4_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQzaKi)IMG_3307liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQzaKi) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[srh3trinity]

Not like you need any help, but here is a little inspiration for a flared rear fender: http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33826
I like this one a little better: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2978513/1971-datsun-240z/

[chevyz240]

Not like you need any help, but here is a little inspiration for a flared rear fender: http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33826
I like this one a little better: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2978513/1971-datsun-240z/

Hi Stephen,

yes they are both pretty good looking, but I think I will widen the entire car outside of the cabin, but change the curvature of the sides a bit, and add moderately sized fender flares. I am currently working on a CAD model, to better see what it will look like.

[chevyz240]

January 05, 2008. A view of the dry sump tank with the tack welded stiffening flange in place. Later, I will seal the tank to this cylindrical flange with weatherstripping.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333104528_b0992de004_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQyUBS)IMG_3308liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQyUBS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


And this is what it looks like in the engine compartment. The breather tank mounted on the fire wall can be seen as well. If I’ll go ahead with the plans of widening the whole car, I will try to mount the breather tank in the wheel well as well, as I think it’s kind of ugly!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539791413_ed65f69d05_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9QeqR)IMG_3313liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9QeqR) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

June 15, 2008. For the 2008 track day season, I bought this Lotus Seven replica. The Porsche 944 Turbo was sold last fall. The car has a centrifugally blown BMW 540 V8. It weighs 2100 lbs with a full tank and me in it. The power-to-weight ratio is better than what I am expecting for the Z. This means I will probably make the Z less track oriented, and use the Seven for heavy duty track work, while the Z will be a quick street car used occasionally on the track. Considering the amount of time I have invested in the Z, it is probably wise not to hammer on it too mercilessly at the track. We'll see how things will turn out...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14516288231_d4339d70f7_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7KLKz)IMG_3500liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7KLKz) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

August 12, 2008. I am once again winching the Z up on the street.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14519635655_93116ca215_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o83VPM)IMG_4227liten (https://flic.kr/p/o83VPM) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14516256541_a155044a13_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7KBkc)IMG_4230liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7KBkc) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


The car will probably sit a bit higher than this, but it’s close to what I am shooting for. It’s always good to see the car from a distance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333191137_094159e271_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQzmn8)IMG_4236liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQzmn8) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[kbscobravert]

I sure wished we could see a sneak peek at what it looks like today!

[chevyz240]

I sure wished we could see a sneak peek at what it looks like today!
Unfortunately it looks less like a car now! :) Bodywise, more or less the only remaining parts are the quarter panels and the roof. The current state of the car will probably be posted within a few weeks. Have patience!

[chevyz240]

December 05, 2008. This is the start of a cold air intake system I am creating. A large conical air filter will sit beside the radiator in the grill area, feeding the engine cold air. Hopefully there will also be a ram-air effect. I am making a plug out of Divinycell foam. After finishing, the fiberglass intake tube will be molded directly on it. This means that the inside of the intake tube will be nice and smooth. The outside will be hand-finished to a decent appearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14332970440_a8d44374d8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQydL1)IMG_4610liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQydL1) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Several sheets of foam are glued together in place in the engine compartment to try to utilize as much of the available space as possible. The inner fender is the part that is limiting an optimal shape of the intake tube the most, but the radiator and one of the cooling fans are also in the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539735583_666369013b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9PWQg)IMG_4608liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9PWQg) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[V8-190E]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/IMG_4236liten_zpse6c54a31-1.jpg (http://s1254.photobucket.com/user/chevyz240/media/Datsun/IMG_4236liten_zpse6c54a31.jpg.html)

The overall side profile of your car is stunning - they way it should have been from the factory.

[chevyz240]

The overall side profile of your car is stunning - they way it should have been from the factory.

Thanks V8-190E! You've got a pretty sweet Mercedes project going!

[chevyz240]

December 06, 2008: The process is iterative, and after a while I find that I can enlarge the plug in some areas.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518536852_aa07428213_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7XibU)IMG_4612liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7XibU) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The Divinycell is very easy to work with. It is stiff and rigid, but still easily sanded, cut and sawed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14333035038_f2fe0237e8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQyxXL)IMG_4614liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQyxXL) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


Most of the rough-shaping has been done, and I start to apply filler to fine-tune the shape. I use a very easily sanded filler with microballons, intended for drywalls.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539723413_af50df76fb_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9PTdr)IMG_4615liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9PTdr) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[mitch_04]

It's projects like this that remind me anything is possible and that I should never limit myself! Love it, truly amazing.

[Auto Rod Technologies]

Very cool project!!! Keep at it!!!

[knuckleworks]

i love the Z cars,brilliant project :)

//Janne

[chevyz240]

i love the Z cars,brilliant project :)

//Janne

Thanks Janne! I like your avatar. Can I have her phone number? ;-)

[chevyz240]

It's projects like this that remind me anything is possible and that I should never limit myself! Love it, truly amazing.

Thanks Mitch,

comments like yours really help me in keeping the spirit up in the darkest moments!

[chevyz240]

Very cool project!!! Keep at it!!!

Thanks,

I must say that I think you have very good metal working skills when I look at your projects, especially the 61 Buick!

[knuckleworks]

Thanks Janne! I like your avatar. Can I have her phone number? ;-)

yeah if you sign over that Z to me :P :D

[chevyz240]

yeah if you sign over that Z to me :P :D

I'll have to think that over a bit... :)

[R32Jordie]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/IMG_4615liten_zpsb047e834-1.jpg[/URL]

How do you plan on removing the foam buck once the fiberglass is applied? Im assuming you'd use some sort of solvent to dissolve the foam.

I am asking because I am currently working on a "ram air" piece for my skyline.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/9552358394_c2d35b8c65_o-1.jpg

Im interested to see how yours turns out. Love the car by the way!

-Jordie

[chevyz240]

How do you plan on removing the foam buck once the fiberglass is applied? Im assuming you'd use some sort of solvent to dissolve the foam.

I am asking because I am currently working on a "ram air" piece for my skyline.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/9552358394_c2d35b8c65_o-1.jpg

Im interested to see how yours turns out. Love the car by the way!

-Jordie

Hi Jordie,

the foam was removed by carving it out. This type of foam widthstands most solvents. Pictures will come shortly. Thanks for your comment on the car!

[chevyz240]

December 07, 2008. Here, I am turning a piece of particle board to act as the part the air filter will clamp on to. I have decided on making the fiberglass tube 3 mm thick, so this wooden piece needs to be 6 mm smaller than the opening in the air filter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518181264_067583927c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Vtu5)IMG_4617liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Vtu5) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I have glued the wooden end piece on the foam plug, showing that quite a bit of foam needs to be removed to get a nice, smooth shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14496496926_518c3d20c1_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o61kub)IMG_4624liten (https://flic.kr/p/o61kub) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The air filter I will be using is an AEM piece that is designed to be run dry. I like that feature, since it prevents the risk of oiling down the MAF sensor, creating sensor problems. I chose a filter with a 6” inlet flange diameter to try to keep restrictions as low as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518182234_b5f6b80869_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7VtLN)IMG_4618liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7VtLN) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The intake tube runs parallel to the radiator. The MAF sensor will sit directly before the 90 degree silicon hose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14516212191_5a128d1007_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7Ko9x)IMG_4620liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7Ko9x) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[driveit]

Wow. Awesome build. Can't wait to see it finished.

[chevyz240]

Wow. Awesome build. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks! It feels good to hear that from a pro!

[chevyz240]

December 08, 2008. A wooden adapter to the 90 degree hose is also turned.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14539074683_9c81e8a0c0_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9Lynr)IMG_4631liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9Lynr) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The second wooden end piece is glued on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14332383748_ce7fbb1480_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQvdmC)IMG_4634liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQvdmC) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr


With both wooden end pieces in place, final shaping of the plug can be done. In order to optimize flow, I make cross section area measurements, to try to get a smooth transition from the 6" diameter entry to the 4" diameter exit from the tube. When airflow enters a turn, it is beneficial to reduce the cross section area throughout the turn. This reduces the risk of airflow separation. That is one of the reasons I chose an air filter with a big inlet flange.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14518955805_8936412ce6_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7ZrJe)IMG_4637liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7ZrJe) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Bad ass build man keep the pics coming..

[chevyz240]

December 25, 2008. The entire plug is covered with filler to create a nice surface.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14331162200_43da7c6854_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQoXes)IMG_4788liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQoXes) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[dangina]

hmmm...for some reason the link for a bunch of your pics is broken - missed the last couple weeks, was hoping to see more!

[chevyz240]

January 1, 2009. After sanding the filler down, the plug is painted to show any surface imperfections and to give a better surface for the fiberglass molding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14332258750_bf4e116f7b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQuzcu)IMG_4819liten (https://flic.kr/p/nQuzcu) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

hmmm...for some reason the link for a bunch of your pics is broken - missed the last couple weeks, was hoping to see more!

Yeah, obviously I have reached my bandwidth limit at Photobucket. Now I am moving all pics to Flickr. As I understand it, they don't have that limit. Give me a few days and I hope it will be fixed!

[2ndroundko]

I remember seeing this build on car domain and have to manually close my mouth simply amazing work. I noticed the dates on the posts have you started it yet is it on the road yet.

[chevyz240]

I remember seeing this build on car domain and have to manually close my mouth simply amazing work. I noticed the dates on the posts have you started it yet is it on the road yet.

Thanks 2ndroundko!

No, I haven't started the engine yet, and it's not on the road yet. Due to different reasons, the project has been dormant for several years, but I'm at it again. There has been progress this winter. I will post this in the not to distant future!

[slammedwhitec5vert]

Looking from the side this car has sick attitude, has got top be one of the coolest rides on this forum....... Can't wait for updates....

[chevyz240]

Looking from the side this car has sick attitude, has got top be one of the coolest rides on this forum....... Can't wait for updates....

Thanks, slammedwhitec5vert! :)

[chevyz240]

January 3, 2009. The paint surface is sanded smooth and the plug is waxed several times and covered with release agent. The plug is now ready to be covered with fiberglass and polyester.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14349175920_b36757cfa2_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nRZh5Q)IMG_4839liten (https://flic.kr/p/nRZh5Q) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Next on the agenda is the sticky and smelly job of laying on fiberglass and polyester.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14534830662_daa44155a1_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9oNLE)IMG_4840liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9oNLE) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The air filter side of the intake tube is cleaned of surplus fiberglass.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14534333874_6e82c14e26_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9mg6m)IMG_4843liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9mg6m) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[HellPhish89]

...im curious as to how you are going to get the plug out...lol.

[R32Jordie]

...im curious as to how you are going to get the plug out...lol.

My guess is he'll cut it in half and glass it back together...

[HellPhish89]

My guess is he'll cut it in half and glass it back together...

i asked because: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw&feature=player_detailpage&list=PLAxdsA1NmxpEUm_hhRYap-9fV16bPO07O#t=39

[chevyz240]

i asked because: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw&feature=player_detailpage&list=PLAxdsA1NmxpEUm_hhRYap-9fV16bPO07O#t=39

Hi HellPhish89 and R32Jordie,

I carved it out. I will post this in few days.

[HellPhish89]

interesting. should be neat to see how you did it.

[chevyz240]

January 04, 2009. To get a nice outer finish of the tube, the surface needs to be sanded smooth. This is easiest to do before the polyester is fully hardened.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14542980154_be82594c80_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oa7zk9)IMG_4846liten (https://flic.kr/p/oa7zk9) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



First thing to do to get the plug out is to get the wooden end pieces out of the way. This is done by the means of sabre saw, chisel, and hammer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14542979714_75980ca67c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oa7zcy)IMG_4849liten (https://flic.kr/p/oa7zcy) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The Divinycell foam is removed carefully to not damage the inner surface of the tube.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14541107891_078295393c_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o9WYLK)IMG_4850liten (https://flic.kr/p/o9WYLK) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



Finally, there is just a piece of the plug left in the middle of the tube.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14357849640_94f615979b_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nSKJtJ)IMG_4851liten (https://flic.kr/p/nSKJtJ) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



With some mild violence this last part of the plug is extracted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14357880870_1d4a15a0e8_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nSKTLb)IMG_4858liten (https://flic.kr/p/nSKTLb) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



This is how the intake tube looks rough-finished on the outside.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/14544498665_26426fc014_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oafmJn)IMG_4859liten (https://flic.kr/p/oafmJn) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[R32Jordie]

the "mild violence" made me chuckle a bit haha. Looks good.

[chevyz240]

the "mild violence" made me chuckle a bit haha. Looks good.

:) Thanks!

[chevyz240]

January 05, 2009. Some imperfections are filled with body filler. After sanding, another layer of polyester is brushed on to fill in all the pores.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14383974298_b76af8524e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nV4CqS)IMG_4867liten (https://flic.kr/p/nV4CqS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



A view of the inside of the tube.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14568897924_71e9c9e023_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ocppMf)IMG_4870liten (https://flic.kr/p/ocppMf) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



The tube with the air filter on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14383927720_017acde4ee_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nV4ozN)IMG_4873liten (https://flic.kr/p/nV4ozN) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



And here is what it looks like in place in the engine compartment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14383927540_c6bf2e001e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nV4owG)IMG_4875liten (https://flic.kr/p/nV4owG) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr



I am pretty pleased with the organic, free-flowing shape of the final product.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14569799392_92df6c894e_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ocu2KN)IMG_4877liten (https://flic.kr/p/ocu2KN) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[chevyz240]

June 10, 2011. Due to financial reasons I have to sell the Seven replica. Due to the same reasons, nothing much has happened on the Z for a long time, but I take the opportunity to take it out of the garage and mock it up with some wheels to use as a base for photoshopping purposes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14720852523_bf6fb39226_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oqQdA8)027liten (https://flic.kr/p/oqQdA8) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14700699312_710109d08d_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/op3VJY)028liten (https://flic.kr/p/op3VJY) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14514324089_5db03888ab_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7zGT4)029liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7zGT4) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14514298700_bd4b373c16_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7zzkj)035liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7zzkj) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/07/14514328718_b249e81153_b-1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7zJfS)039liten (https://flic.kr/p/o7zJfS) by ChevyZ240 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr

[Boyd]

Let's see some more progress!

[Widetrax]

I sure understand having financial restraints put on your progress! That's one of the reasons it's taken me 10 years to get as far as I have. I just try to work on parts that I already have the resources to do. Good luck, the project is looking awesome!!

[2ndroundko]

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs More please

[chevyz240]

I sure understand having financial restraints put on your progress! That's one of the reasons it's taken me 10 years to get as far as I have. I just try to work on parts that I already have the resources to do. Good luck, the project is looking awesome!!

Thanks! How's your Firebird coming along? It looks cool!

[BlackMachOne]

This could potentially be the coolest car ever!

I love the long nosed, short back-end type of cars (69 mustang, 70's Camaro/Trans Am, 70's Vette's, Ferrari 550...)

The widening and lengthening is such a cool idea to an already cool car.

[chevyz240]

This could potentially be the coolest car ever!

I love the long nosed, short back-end type of cars (69 mustang, 70's Camaro/Trans Am, 70's Vette's, Ferrari 550...)

The widening and lengthening is such a cool idea to an already cool car.

Thanks! Actually, the car itself will not be lengthened, only the wheelbase. Pretty sweet Mustang you have! I like the 69's better than the 70's. The quarter panel scoop is cool.

[Motown 454]

Wow amazing car! Great fab work.

[Widetrax]

I am still sanding on the rear quarter, also working on a friends 1972 Chevy c10 truck. His roof looked like someone had a dancing party on it. So I am trying to coordinate my work on his roof, my drivers door, and my rear quarter panel so all the pieces are ready to primer paint all at the same time. Then I only have to mix, spray, and clean the epoxy primer out of my spray gun one time. I am just lazy like that!lol

[Newton27]

The chop sure makes that car look like a Ferrari Daytona.

[Hellrace]

Wow you got some nice skill's :jump:

101333

[CruizinKev]

wow love your metalwork!!! awesome project! :twothumbs :twothumbs :twothumbs

[chevyz240]

I am still sanding on the rear quarter, also working on a friends 1972 Chevy c10 truck. His roof looked like someone had a dancing party on it. So I am trying to coordinate my work on his roof, my drivers door, and my rear quarter panel so all the pieces are ready to primer paint all at the same time. Then I only have to mix, spray, and clean the epoxy primer out of my spray gun one time. I am just lazy like that!lol

Sounds good! So I can expect some new pictures being posted soon? :) I will try to post all my old progress info and pictures soon, so the thread will become a realtime thread, as it should be!

[chevyz240]

wow love your metalwork!!! awesome project! :twothumbs :twothumbs :twothumbs

Thanks Kevin!

I'd like to see some pictures of your Monte, but it seams like you´ve reached the limit on your Photobucket space.

[chevyz240]

December, 2012. I have started to create a Photoshop rendering, using one of the photos above. These pictures are some of the first steps in the process.

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[chevyz240]

January-February, 2013. The photoshopping continues …

These are some of the more or less finished versions of the rendering above.

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I also create renderings at another angle to try to show the widening of the body I am planning.

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Here’s a possible future view: Towing the Z-car behind my -64 Chevy C10 (also photoshopped) at Bonneville! Sponsors are welcome! :)

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I am also starting on a CAD model at work during evenings. This is the rough first stage.

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[chevyz240]

March 23, 2013. In order to make the CAD model more accurate, I am taking the exact measurements of the body using a laser instrument, a level and some other tools.

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Please note the sketches’ stunning resemblance to the real Datsun… I am still surprised that I didn’t get an A in art at school.

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[chevyz240]

June, 2011 – January, 2014. After I sold the Seven, I no longer needed to park two cars in the garage, since the Chevy C10 lives outdoors. If I would have it in the garage together with the Datsun, it would be extremely cramped. This meant that the somewhat unusual arrangement of having half a car in the laundry room and the other half in the former sauna could be scrapped. I therefore decided to permanently expand the garage with the area previously occupied be the sauna. Here are some pictures of this little home improvement project.

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[chevyz240]

January 26, 2014. With the garage expansion project finally completed, I can take up work on the Z-car again. During the time I have been modifying the car I have constantly pondered how far I should take the project: Should I keep the body sides intact and just add fender flares or should I widen the entire body? Should I keep the MacPherson suspension or should I build a double A-arm suspension? Should I keep the chassis more or less as it is or should I build a full tube frame?

One of the reasons for keeping the chassis close to stock (apart from time and cost savings) would be that in Sweden the car would still be registered as a 1973 car. This means that there would be no annual tax to pay and it would only need to go through inspection every other year instead of annually. If the chassis is modified too much or replaced by a new one, the car will need to be registered as a new car with a current year model, meaning tax will need to be paid every year and the car will need to go through inspection every year. There are also more stringent rules regarding lights etc.

Despite the advantages of keeping the year model a 1973, I have decided that I want to build the best possible suspension and chassis. I also want the car to look as good as possible. Since I have been working on the car for so long already, a couple of more years to really make it the way I want it instead of ending up with something that is a bit of a compromise, seems like a good trade-off!

This means I have decided to widen the entire body, build a double A-arm suspension all around, and build a more or less new chassis. This chassis will consist of a passenger compartment built from aluminum honeycomb sandwich panels. The engine compartment may be a combination of the stock inner fenders and some new chassis members and the rear part could also be a combination of some stock sheet metal and new chassis members.

To enable building the new chassis, I have decided to bolt the car to the garage floor via tall stands welded to the body. This will ease access and prevent the body from warping when I cut out the floor.

The first step is to raise the car up to a level that will make it easy to work on.

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[chevyz240]

January 31, 2014. The first stand is completed. It is triangulated to keep the body from moving around.

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[chevyz240]

February 2, 2014. The four main stands are done. Of course the body has been carefully leveled both longitudinally and transversally.

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[chevyz240]

February 2, 2014. Here you can see the complex structure that holds the front end up. It needs to look like this to hold everything well enough in place while still allowing access to the necessary pieces. I have lowered the engine and tranny in preparation for cutting out the floor.

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[chevyz240]

February 9, 2014. Today I have cut out the floor of passenger compartment.

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[chevyz240]

February 10, 2014. I have cut out part of the firewall to set the engine back as far as possible.

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[chevyz240]

February 14, 2014. Here is the sheet metal I have cut out so far.

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[chevyz240]

February 15, 2014. I am planning to keep the inner fenders, but build a new front subframe.

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As I wrote before, the passenger compartment part of the chassis will be made of aluminum sandwich panels. The reasons for using this material instead of doing a more traditional tube chassis are many. First of all, it is very strong, stiff, and light weight. It also has superior crash properties in that it crushes very linearly instead of suddenly breaking or bending abruptly like a steel tube. It has built in sound and heat insulation. Since the entire floor and trans tunnel will be made of this material, a fairly thin sandwich panel will be stiff and strong enough, saving space. The underside of the car also will be totally flat automatically, improving aerodynamics. This is how IndyCars and F1 cars were built before carbon fiber tubs became the norm.

Since I want to make the car as low as possible I have decided to ditch the seats previously installed. If I raise the floor to be level with the bottom of the rocker panels, there is not enough head room. If I incorporate the seats with the chassis, I can tailor seat, backrest and head rest angles to give the best seating position and head room, again mimicking a single seater chassis. The backrest will also double as a rear firewall, increasing chassis strength and stiffness. Another benefit is that the transmission tunnel can be wider which will give more space for the exhaust system that will run through the tunnel. I will either attach seat padding directly to the chassis, or make some removable padded inserts.

To try out seating position, I have started to make a mockup of the passenger compartment and seats in wood. To gain enough room for my feet and pedals, the engine will be offset 30 mm to the right. This also has the benefit of making the transversal weight distribution more even with just the driver in the car. If the car will be more right side heavy with a passenger, this will also be good on track days, since all Swedish tracks run clockwise.


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[chevyz240]

March 03, 2014. After thinking a lot about the engine compartment, I have realized that I will get a better chassis and simplify the attachment of the sandwich panels to the original structure if I ditch the rest of the stock firewall and inner fenders. I still plan on keeping the upper inner fender rails since they double as a very effective fresh air intake to the passenger compartment. The attachments for the fenders are also good to retain. Some of the work I have previously done will be discarded, but that’s the way it goes when you change plans during the project…

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To maximize leg room and header (now exhaust manifold) clearance the firewall will be bent like this.

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The passenger compartment mockup gets more complete. I built a simulated gas pedal to test leg position both at full throttle and idle. There will also be a high rocker panel to increase stiffness and strength. High diagonal door bars are hard to get through inspection in Sweden. Without door bars it will also be easier to enter and exit the car.

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The trans tunnel will be quite high as well to maximize stiffness and allow as much airflow as possible to cool the transmission and keep exhaust heat out of the car.

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[chevyz240]

March 23, 2014. I found that with the firewall so far back the fresh air inlets no longer are situated in the kick panels, but are more or less in the engine compartment. This means that the biggest reason for keeping these rails is gone, so I decided to get rid of them too! The only remaining sheet metal in the engine compartment are the pieces where the hood hinges are mounted.

The chassis of the engine compartment will now consist of a steel tube subframe. The benefits of sandwich panels I wrote about earlier should point at using this material here as well, but attaching A-arms, engine mounts etc. is a lot easier on a tube frame. Access to all components will be better as well. I guess that’s the reason why even super cars with carbon tubs use steel or aluminum subframes front and rear. I will probably make some sort of crush zone at the very front. I have a 140 mm thick aluminum honeycomb core panel that can be ideal for this.

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With the upper inner fender rails discarded, I change the firewall to attach directly to the lower windshield beam, giving even more room around the engine, saving weight and increasing stiffness.

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Here’s the massive transmission tunnel! The bottom will be covered, creating a (here are those words again) strong and stiff backbone. At the rear part, the floor will go all across from rocker panel to rocker panel. At the front there will be an opening to enable mounting the engine and transmission. That opening will be covered by a removable panel. Since the trans and exhaust system are fully enclosed, air flow is critical for cooling, also demanding a big cross section.

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I am attaching the head rests to the main hoop of the roll cage to, you guessed it, increase strength and stiffness!!!

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[chevyz240]

May 10, 2014. I have decided to build a full steel tube rear subframe as well, so the trunk floor goes to the promised land too.

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[chevyz240]

June 29, 2014. I have found that it is hard to create a good CAD model using the NX system we have at work due to us not having a surface modeling license. A buddy at work tells me about a free modeling/animation/rendering program called Blender. I download this and start modeling. It is very easy to use. This really comes as a godsend! Thanks Rasmus!

This is the very first shot, just modeling the upper part of the body.

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[chevyz240]

July 7, 2014. I have come a bit further with the Blender model.

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The disadvantage of widening the car this much by just moving the sides of the body out is that the car looks a bit clumsy and pontoonlike. The advantage is that it still looks like a Datsun in side view, which is what I like. I want people to see that it is a Datsun 240Z, just a lot better looking. Anyway, to try to remedy this, I experiment with creating a waistline.

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I think the version with a waist line looks better. While I’m at it, I try a version where the body is wedge sectioned, creating a lower front end. The height of the top of the front fenders is still roughly the same to enable front suspension travel.

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[chevyz240]

July 16, 2014. Since I have had a cold and this is vacation time, I have stayed inside and modeled a lot the last days! For now, I am continuing on the version with the coke bottle shape. I think it looks quite good, even if it has lost the Z-car looks. This is how far I have come so far.

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[chevyz240]

August 5, 2014. Initially I planned to either retain the characteristic Z-car headlights like they are, or create a modernized version of them, since I like them a lot, and they really set the car apart from others. I also planned on keeping the tail lights similar to stock. But with all the changes I have made to the body in this version of the model, I think I might as well make the design totally my own, skipping the Z-car heritage all together. In the future I think I will keep on working on a model with more Z-car genes, and in the end I will have to decide on which route to go.

I really want the car to look as mean as possible and I think the grill opening with the angled sides is quite aggressive. I also like mean looking headlights and tail lights. These headlights are inspired by eagle eyes.

Please feel fry to comment on the design! Positive and negative critique is welcome!

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[CruizinKev]

WOW!!!!! I love that last one!!!!

[chevyz240]

August 8, 2014. With the engine and tranny hanging from the hoist, I can't put the hood on. I would also like to try to set the engine back even further, but the lift fixture on the engine prevents that, so today I built an engine stand.

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With the hood and a fender on, it suddenly looks a bit more like a car again.

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There is not much space above the engine, so if I am going to do the wedge sectioning discussed earlier, I will have to make a bulge on the hood.

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[andrewb70]

Henrik,

Thank you for posting your project on this forum! This is an amazing build that is more like a labor of love. Clearly, you have no woman in your life, but this allows you plenty of time to do what you want...LOL

Amazing build.

Andrew

[chevyz240]

Henrik,

Thank you for posting your project on this forum! This is an amazing build that is more like a labor of love. Clearly, you have no woman in your life, but this allows you plenty of time to do what you want...LOL

Amazing build.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew!

Yes, you might say that it's a love/hate relationship, but the Z is definitely a big part of my life!

[Motown 454]

Wow that looks awesome! This is an amazing build, I'll definitely be watching.
Subscribed!!

[chevyz240]

September 22, 2014. I have been doing some more Blender modeling. I have taken a lot more measurements on the car to make the model as accurate as possible. Now the roof of the model is pretty accurate and I have started modeling the windshield. It’s still pretty crude and a lot of things need to be corrected, but it’s a step in the right direction.

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[DreamRyder1963]

I see a lot of FRS influence in that front end. I am not sure how I feel about the eye, but I like it overall.

[chevyz240]

I see a lot of FRS influence in that front end. I am not sure how I feel about the eye, but I like it overall.
Any resemblance to the FRS is purely coincidence, but I can agree that there is a slight similarity. Initially, I questioned if the eagle-eye design was a bit too animal-like, but I think I will go with something in that direction. The light color may change though. Thanks for your input! It's nice to get feedback on what you guys don't like too! :)

[DreamRyder1963]

I agree that less contrast on the eagle would make less animal like. Something like a silver surround with black or dark grey center. I think that would make it look great.

[V8-190E]

Thanks for your input! It's nice to get feedback on what you guys don't like too! :)

Let me start off by saying that I think whatever you end up doing will turn out nice because your fabricating skills kick ass!

The changes shown in the latest renderings kind of remind me of someone who has done too much plastic surgery...A little can be good....so more must be better? kind of thing....then pretty soon you look like the cat lady or Michael Jackson. I think what I am trying to say is as you lose more and more of the 240's original charm and design the car starts to look more like a kit car of some sort. Again, maybe my opinion only, but there are very few kit cars with original bodies that look really good.


I do enjoy catching up on this build thread regularly and genuinely like seeing the radical editing. I will be tuned in to see how it materializes!

[chevyz240]

Let me start off by saying that I think whatever you end up doing will turn out nice because your fabricating skills kick ass!

The changes shown in the latest renderings kind of remind me of someone who has done too much plastic surgery...A little can be good....so more must be better? kind of thing....then pretty soon you look like the cat lady or Michael Jackson. I think what I am trying to say is as you lose more and more of the 240's original charm and design the car starts to look more like a kit car of some sort. Again, maybe my opinion only, but there are very few kit cars with original bodies that look really good.




I do enjoy catching up on this build thread regularly and genuinely like seeing the radical editing. I will be tuned in to see how it materializes!

I see what you mean, although I don't agree. As I wrote earlier, I will also do a design more true to the Z-car roots. At some point I will try to not look at this model for several weeks, in order to get back to it with fresh eyes, to see if I have overdone it! :) Keep the critique coming!

[V8-190E]

I think what is throwing me off a bit is the wheelbase looks too long for the car - It looks to me as though the body has been stretched...if the front of the car (front windshield to bumper) was a bit shorter I think the overall effect would look better... and yes I realize how much work that would be to change...and that this is just my opinion :)

Currently:
103350

About 100mm? shorter:
103351

[driveit]

Awesome work!

[chevyz240]

I think what is throwing me off a bit is the wheelbase looks too long for the car - It looks to me as though the body has been stretched...if the front of the car (front windshield to bumper) was a bit shorter I think the overall effect would look better... and yes I realize how much work that would be to change...and that this is just my opinion :)

Currently:
103350

About 100mm? shorter:
103351

Actually, that would be a lot less work, because the wheelbase is stretched! ;-)

[driveit]

What are you using for your renderings?

[chevyz240]

What are you using for your renderings?

I am using Blender, a freeware that I can highly recommend! Lots of free tutorials on Youtube. Try it!!!

[chevyz240]

October 13, 2014. The Blender modeling continues. Side windows have been added, and I have been learning how to do higher resolution renderings.

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[dangina]

the rear taillights look like corvette tails, the more your doing to it, the better it looks!

[chevyz240]

the rear taillights look like corvette tails, the more your doing to it, the better it looks!

Thanks Dan! Yes, both the C7 Corvette and the Gen5 Camaro have been serving as inspiration for the taillights. I am trying to get the angry look both front and rear!

[feeble]

I spent some time with Blender briefly several years ago and found (at the time) the interface to be rather confusing. Maybe I should revisit it.

Nice job on the modeling. I have to say I agree with the plastic surgery comment made by V8-190E.

On this latest batch you posted, IMO, the front wheel looks too close to the front of the car relative to the rear. The rear wheel looks to far forward into the passenger compartment, I'm not sure how easy it will be to get in the car if you were to build as shown here. What if you kept the wheel base the same but just moved the front and rear wheels back so that they are centered in the overall length?

This is just my opinion obviously, so feel free to ignore it. :)

[TonyHuntimer]

Henrik,

Looks like an awesome project. Like many others, I look forward to seeing more on your build. Keep up the good work.

Tony Huntimer
TestCarDatabase.com

[chevyz240]

I spent some time with Blender briefly several years ago and found (at the time) the interface to be rather confusing. Maybe I should revisit it.

Nice job on the modeling. I have to say I agree with the plastic surgery comment made by V8-190E.

On this latest batch you posted, IMO, the front wheel looks too close to the front of the car relative to the rear. The rear wheel looks to far forward into the passenger compartment, I'm not sure how easy it will be to get in the car if you were to build as shown here. What if you kept the wheel base the same but just moved the front and rear wheels back so that they are centered in the overall length?

This is just my opinion obviously, so feel free to ignore it. :)

I definitely see what you mean, Shawn. The placement of the wheels is mostly dictated by my wish for both a longer wheelbase to improve high speed stability and as much weight on the rear wheels as possible. From some angles, for instance the rear 3/4-view, you barely see the front overhang, but from a true side view I think it looks quite good. It might look a teeny, tiny bit better with the front wheels a little bit further back, but not by much, I think. Of course, it all depends on what your reference cars are. I think the body far back on the wheelbase looks quick; it's like the wheels are accelerating away from the body! If you look at modern BMW's for instance, they have the front wheels quite far forward. On the other hand, 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies have a really large front overhang, which I think looks "less good"... Regarding ingress and egress; the rear wheels are close to the stock position, so that's no problem. My cockpit mockup that you can see in previous pictures is made after these renderings. Give the look some time; maybe you'll like it later on!

I've looked a little at your build thread, which is quite impressive! It looks like you're using Solid Works, or am I wrong?

[chevyz240]

Henrik,

Looks like an awesome project. Like many others, I look forward to seeing more on your build. Keep up the good work.

Tony Huntimer
TestCarDatabase.com

Thanks Tony! I've "liked" your Facebook page!

[BMR Sales]

Love it. The renderings give kind of a Kellison Look

[chevyz240]

Love it. The renderings give kind of a Kellison Look

Thanks! As you will see in the next post, these renderings will never be a reality though!

[chevyz240]

October 26, 2014. Over the years I have contemplated different headings for the project. Especially during the last years, when I (for different reasons) haven't been doing much actual work on the car. (It is easier to get carried away, when you forget how much time it actually takes making all those crazy ideas a reality.) One day I have "decided" that the car will be an extreme track day tool with barely tolerable streetability, only to the next day "decide" that it should be comfortable with all modern amenities including climate control, noise insulation and a good stereo. The last months I have thrown around the idea of making it an AWD car for instance. As late as a few days ago I thought I had "decided" to make the car as light as possible by building the entire chassis out of aluminum sandwich panels and making the body out of fiber glass or carbon fiber, with basically a totally new design according to the renderings I have posted. The suspension would be a fully custom made A-arm suspension all around, with probably even my own spindles. The radiator would reside in the trunk to get as big a rear weight percentage as possible. No concessions to comfort would be made at all. A lot of all the work I have done to the car to this date would be scrapped. Fairly thorough calculations showed a possible dry weight of under 2100 lbs.

Yesterday I made a definite decision (I think) to be a little bit more realistic and make it possible that the car actually will be finished before the earth's crude oil reserves run out! After doing a lot of research on suitable donor cars I thought that a 5-series BMW E39 would be a good candidate. First I went to a junkyard to look at BMW E39s to see if it seemed that it would be feasible to use the suspension and other systems. Everything looked good, and after that I went to a car dealership to test drive a car they had, just to feel if the potential was there. I wasn't really thinking about buying the car at all. The thought was just to mull this idea over and later make a definite decision. But since the car seemed solid, I threw out a really low bid, which they accepted! So, as of yesterday, I am the proud owner of this BMW 523 from 2000.

104475


Since I have actually bought a donor car I have more or less locked in the project future! Well, this isn't totally true, since I did buy a Chevy van to use as a donor car for the drivetrain to my Chevy pickup. I never used any parts at all, and I parted the van out in pieces. A lot of work for nothing! Well, I think this will not happen this time. The idea is to take the suspension, steering, ABS system and so on and use them on the Datsun. I think I will try to use as many systems from the Bimmer as possible, including the climate control system. I may even use some of the airbags. To do this I will research how critical it is that the crush properties remains the same.

I will probably try to use as much as possible of the rear floor structure of the BMW and mate it to the Datsun body. From the front end, I will probably use the main chassis beams and the front subframe, building new inner fenders. Due to the Datsun's low profile, I can't use the Bimmer's MacPherson struts, plus I really would rather have an A-arm suspension. The idea is to take the strut away, and build an upper A-arm instead. One of the beauties of the BMW front suspension is the divorced lower A-arm with twin spindle joints, creating a virtual pivot point. This gives, among other things, a shorter scrub radius, making the steering less nervous when braking on uneven surfaces and so on. That way you can use wheels with less offset, which I really like from a looks standpoint. I will use a suspension modeling program to see if I can get by building a traditional upper A-arm with one spindle joint or if I need to use two. For the cockpit of the car I will probably still use sandwich panels, but not on their own. They will be glued and riveted to a steel tube frame structure.

In order to save lots of time and money I have ditched the idea of making my own car body. I will use what I already have and just make some traditional fender flares. They will be pretty wide though, to accommodate a much wider track than stock! The stock modified steel doors will also be retained. So now you guys that haven't liked my renderings can relax! :) The car will now still be recognizable as a Z-car, which also is kind of nice! Compared to building the car as I described above, it will be a lot heavier. Now the focus will not be on ultimate track performance, but instead on a car that will be enjoyable on long road trips as well. I will use as much sound insulation as necessary to not having to use ear plugs when driving (I have pretty sensitive ears). I will not throw handling prowess away totally; the goal is still to be able to kick sports car ass on the track! Since the car is so small, it still will be reasonably light, compared to traditional pro touring cars. I can imagine a dry weight of under 2800 lbs being realistic.

In my day job I sometimes get to ride in, and sometimes even drive, pretty extreme super cars like Koenigsegg, Pagani and others. This, in combination with higher age, has made me a bit blasé. I'm not all that impressed by the performance. So if I really concentrated on making my car as racy as possible, I think I still would crave more. With the above outlined project description, the car will be more allround, making it enjoyable on more levels. We will see if I'll have to eat these words later on!

Now, I will modify the Blender model to show the new (old) look of the car. The side view should be close to the previously made Photoshop rendering below.

104477

[chevyz240]

November 1, 2014. Before I started taking the BMW apart, I took some test drives on bad roads, and it seems that the tramlining sensitivity is pretty low, as I hoped. The suspension also swallows big potholes with great composure and it rolls really comfortably. This indicates that even with a considerably stiffened suspension, I will still have great streetability. I have made a first rough model showing the new look of the Z. Since I’ve decided not to widen the entire car body, the fender flares will be pretty wide. It feels pretty good to have decided on using existing suspension components and to retain the modifications I’ve done so far on the car, instead of throwing them away and starting all over again. I think I have saved maybe two years of work this way!

104729

[84TransAm]

I really like your build, for the most part. Some of the stuff you did was cool, some lost the feel and spirit of the Z car. I'm glad you found it again with your last rendering. My friend and I have 6 Z cars. We are planning a build LSX monster build ourselves. Ours will not be as extreme as yours,but you did give me some cool ideas. I look forward to seeing your Z come together!


Here's a rendering of what we have in mind.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/rkmxoy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/50ipmg-1.jpg

[chevyz240]

I really like your build, for the most part. Some of the stuff you did was cool, some lost the feel and spirit of the Z car. I'm glad you found it again with your last rendering. My friend and I have 6 Z cars. We are planning a build LSX monster build ourselves. Ours will not be as extreme as yours,but you did give me some cool ideas. I look forward to seeing your Z come together!


Here's a rendering of what we have in mind.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/rkmxoy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/11/50ipmg-1.jpg

Hi!

I like your rendering! How much of it is real, and how much is computer rendered?

[84TransAm]

Hi!

I like your rendering! How much of it is real, and how much is computer rendered?

As far as the rendering, I couldn't answer that. My friend I'm building the car with, did it. I just try to make the metal match the rendering. The base car we are starting with is a 72. We have a 73 for the mint door, 74 for a mint interior, a 77 cause it came with the 74 and it's now a driver, a 78 2+2 cause it was complete and very cheap, and an 80 10th anniversary, cause I like it. I've had the 72 and 80 since 1992. I'll start a build thread for the 72 when it moves from the barn to the shop and we finally get started. We have 95% of the parts for the build, just not the time yet. Anyway I can't wait to see the next phase of you car.

[David LaBuda]

The rendering looks like it was done with Indigo Renderer and Google Sketchup. I actually have a file with that 240Z model.

105179
105180

[chevyz240]

As far as the rendering, I couldn't answer that. My friend I'm building the car with, did it. I just try to make the metal match the rendering. The base car we are starting with is a 72. We have a 73 for the mint door, 74 for a mint interior, a 77 cause it came with the 74 and it's now a driver, a 78 2+2 cause it was complete and very cheap, and an 80 10th anniversary, cause I like it. I've had the 72 and 80 since 1992. I'll start a build thread for the 72 when it moves from the barn to the shop and we finally get started. We have 95% of the parts for the build, just not the time yet. Anyway I can't wait to see the next phase of you car.

Hi again,

could you maybe ask your friend about the rendering? It sounds like you have lots of part on hand to create a great car! Best of luck! This weekend, I hope to pull the engine and tranny out of the Bimmer, and maybe even start cutting out the suspension. Pictures will be posted!

[chevyz240]

The rendering looks like it was done with Indigo Renderer and Google Sketchup. I actually have a file with that 240Z model.

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Thanks David! Would it be possible for you to send me the file? What format does it have? Nice Chevelle build you've got goin'! :)

[David LaBuda]

If you PM me your email address I should be able to send it to you. I couldn't figure out Blender for the life of me but I learned these programs quickly. You shouldn't have a problem if you're that good with Blender haha.

Sketchup is a free program that can be downloaded here: http://www.sketchup.com/download
I don't know how much experience you have with 3D CAD software, but Sketchup is very easy to learn.

I use Indigo Renderer to render Sketchup models. It works as a plug-in and will render scene you are currently viewing in Sketchup. You will need to define the materials used in the model (paint, stainless steel, glass, etc.) in the plug-in on Sketchup. Everything else is straightforward after you set up your materials.
Indigo can be downloaded here: http://www.indigorenderer.com/download-indigo-renderer
You can still use the program after the trial period is expired. The renderings will be limited to the size of the ones I posted and they will have that watermark. It's a small price to pay for such useful software!

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

-David

[chevyz240]

If you PM me your email address I should be able to send it to you. I couldn't figure out Blender for the life of me but I learned these programs quickly. You shouldn't have a problem if you're that good with Blender haha.

Sketchup is a free program that can be downloaded here: http://www.sketchup.com/download
I don't know how much experience you have with 3D CAD software, but Sketchup is very easy to learn.

I use Indigo Renderer to render Sketchup models. It works as a plug-in and will render scene you are currently viewing in Sketchup. You will need to define the materials used in the model (paint, stainless steel, glass, etc.) in the plug-in on Sketchup. Everything else is straightforward after you set up your materials.
Indigo can be downloaded here: http://www.indigorenderer.com/download-indigo-renderer
You can still use the program after the trial period is expired. The renderings will be limited to the size of the ones I posted and they will have that watermark. It's a small price to pay for such useful software!

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

-David

Hi again David,

I work as a design engineer, so I work with 3D Cad every day! :) I am hoping to be able to import the file to Blender. I would like to compare it to my own model, and see if I maybe can use some features, so I can save some time. Otherwise I may check out Sketchup and Indigo Renderer as well! You have a PM.

[84TransAm]

Henrik,

I just talked to my friend, It was Sketchup that he used.

[chevyz240]

Henrik,

I just talked to my friend, It was Sketchup that he used.

Thanks!

[chevyz240]

November 15, 2014. The BMW is coming apart nicely, and today I mocked up the rear suspension roughly where it will sit. I will have to either get suspension geometry data from BMW or get it myself by measuring all the coordinates of the joints in order to specify the exact height, to get the roll center height, camber curve etc. where I would like it to be.

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[andrewb70]

Nice!

Andrew

[84TransAm]

Very nice! The BMW stuff looks like a nice fit, I might have to borrow that trick when we get started.

[chevyz240]

Nice!

Andrew

Thanks Andrew!

[andrewb70]

How durable are those BMW rear ends?

Andrew

[chevyz240]

Very nice! The BMW stuff looks like a nice fit, I might have to borrow that trick when we get started.

Thanks! Yes, it does fit kinda nicely! It's also pretty lightweight, since everything is aluminum. The whole assembly as you see it here, with wheels, 3rd member etc. weighs 320 lbs. When I'm done, it will be a bit heavier, due to bigger brakes and wheels, but also due to the fact that the E34 M5 3rd member I will be using is pretty heavy at around 100 lbs.

[chevyz240]

How durable are those BMW rear ends?

Andrew

I'm not really sure about the halfshafts and differential that's on this rear end, Andrew. This is the medium case diff with 188 mm ring gear. The M5 diff I'll be using is the large case 210 mm version. This is really strong. There are guys using it in dragracing on cars that have over 1000 hp, at least! I think the medium diff is pretty strong too, though.

[chevyz240]

November 16, 2014. Today I removed the front suspension, the engine and the tranny from the BMW. I got them all out as an assembly, lifting the body off of it. Now I have the major parts I need removed from the car. Then, it's just a matter of removing the wiring harness and all the different small parts I may use.

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[Widetrax]

Henrik, That is a good way to get what you need in big meaty chunks!! You were discussing going AWD, and I worked on a BMW 330x about a year ago. Your parts do not look much different other than the front diff and transfer case off of the trans. Would of really liked to see that done. Maybe it's track width would have been a little narrower so you could have tucked the tires in a little easier, then use wider wheels and tires for the extra width. But this is your car and I am excited to see how you carry out your fabrication. Keep up the good work!

[chevyz240]

Henrik, That is a good way to get what you need in big meaty chunks!! You were discussing going AWD, and I worked on a BMW 330x about a year ago. Your parts do not look much different other than the front diff and transfer case off of the trans. Would of really liked to see that done. Maybe it's track width would have been a little narrower so you could have tucked the tires in a little easier, then use wider wheels and tires for the extra width. But this is your car and I am excited to see how you carry out your fabrication. Keep up the good work!

Yes, I actually thought about using the transfer box from a BMW 330XI. I visited a guy who has a turbocharged BMW with around 800 horses who has no problems with the transfer box. One problem with going AWD is the car's narrow internal width. It would have been a pretty tight fit getting the front driveshaft in between the transmission and the seat. If I would have gone that route, it would have been cool, but I think the project would have gotten a bit out of hand. Now, I think I can see a driveable car on the horizon! ;-) Thanks for your comments!

[Streetrunner]

Love it great project !!!!

[linkstar69]

I'm in to see this through. Awesome vision.

[chevyz240]

Love it great project !!!!

Thanks!

[chevyz240]

I'm in to see this through. Awesome vision.

Thanks!

[85coupe50]

You have a great vision for this car and some great skills. I'm excited to see how this thing turns out!

[chevyz240]

You have a great vision for this car and some great skills. I'm excited to see how this thing turns out!

Thanks!

[chevyz240]

December 20, 2014. I have put the BMW front suspension roughly where it will reside. I am taking some additional measurements on the front fender to use in the Blender model of the car.

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After having measured almost all the interesting points on the car, I quite recently came up with a method to more easily get the length and width coordinate of any point on the body. The point to be measured is marked on a piece of tape on the body. I then adjust my laser instrument so the vertical beam hits the point and at the same time hits the garage floor. I put a piece of tape on the floor, and trace the laser line on it with a pen. I then move the laser and repeat the process at an angle roughly 90 degrees from the previous one. The intersection of these lines now represent the length and width coordinates and can be measured from a centerline I have projected on to the garage floor. The height coordinate is projected on a tape measure on the garage wall.

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Just by having one fender in place, I can pretend that I am much closer to finishing the car…

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As you can see, the front wheels will be moved quite a bit forward, both to stretch the wheel base for better high speed stability and to get a higher rear weight percentage for traction on acceleration and to improve braking. The exact location isn’t set in stone yet. I must first finish the Blender model to see exactly how it will look.

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[TURTL3]

Is this build still going? Such amazing work.

[chevyz240]

Is this build still going? Such amazing work.

Thanks! Yes, it is, but it's being paused until fall, as I am currently trying to get my -64 Chevy pickup on the road again.

[TURTL3]

Thanks! Yes, it is, but it's being paused until fall, as I am currently trying to get my -64 Chevy pickup on the road again.

Awesome, it's such an inspiring thread. One day it will be finished! haha.

[Sirpent]

Stunning ! Incredible ! Brilliant ! what more can I say, I just wish I had your body to fit to my Hybrid G-Nose it would be poetry in motion.

Congratulations and well done

John

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[chevyz240]

Thanks John!

I don't like the G-nose, but your version looks cool!
Stunning ! Incredible ! Brilliant ! what more can I say, I just wish I had your body to fit to my Hybrid G-Nose it would be poetry in motion.

Congratulations and well done

John

https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114528&stc=1https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114529&stc=1https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114562&stc=1

[Sirpent]

Thanks John!

I don't like the G-nose, but your version looks cool!

Thanks Henrik

That's a mighty big compliment :-)

[chevyz240]

Soon winter comes and I will be transfering my focus from my L33-equipped -64 Chevy C10 to the Z-car...

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[Godbolt]

Fantastic work Henrik. I look forward to it.

You got a build thread for the c10?

[chevyz240]

Fantastic work Henrik. I look forward to it.

You got a build thread for the c10?

Thanks! I have some info here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-official-60-66-c-10-chevy-truck-picture-thread.108866/page-102#post-10712025

Or you could look me up on Facebook: Henrik Schiölde. I continuously update my projects there.

[Godbolt]

Thanks Henrik. I see you work for Ohlins. Have run some Ohlins gear on motorbikes. Very nice!

[chevyz240]

Thanks Henrik. I see you work for Ohlins. Have run some Ohlins gear on motorbikes. Very nice!

That's correct James! The plan is to have Öhlins shocks on the car. The C10 already has them.

[chevyz240]

The garage season has officially begun! After a long hiatus I have started working on the Z-car again. First on the agenda is to finalize the cabin layout. Previously I had planned to have the engine offset 30 mm (1.2") to the right. Today I decided to increase that to 40 mm in order to gain some more clearance to the driver's side of the transmission tunnel (we're talking English Channel Tunnel here...). To do that I had to narrow the passenger side of the cabin. I continued to modify the wooden mockup. To make it as accurate as possible I decided to calculate with 15 mm combined thickness of the sound insulation and carpet/upholstery. Now the inner surfaces of the wood will represent the actual finished surface. It's not going to be overly spacious for the passenger, but it'll be comfortable enough for a normal size person.

The reasons for the very wide trans tunnel is that I will be using 26 mm thick aluminum sandwich panels for the cabin to gain stiffness and improve sound and heat insulation, while still being light weight. The dual 3" exhaust also needs width beside the trans. In addition I want to have adequate airflow to cool the transmission. If the airflow out of the tunnel is large and cool enough, I may channel it through the rear mounted radiator I'm planning to use. One advantage to the side offset of the engine is a higher right side weight percentage, which tends to be less than 50 percent otherwise. Especially on track days it's an advantage, as all (but one I think) Swedish tracks are run clockwise.

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[69CougarXR7]

Henrick,

Your build is what led me to this forum... Always have been a fan of the Z cars.... Have a couple of 280 projects that I have been trying to sell off to fund some of my 1969 Cougar build...

Look forward to more updates...

Brian

[chevyz240]

Henrick,

Your build is what led me to this forum... Always have been a fan of the Z cars.... Have a couple of 280 projects that I have been trying to sell off to fund some of my 1969 Cougar build...

Look forward to more updates...

Brian

Thanks Brian!

Do you have a build thread for the Cougar? (Or the 280 Z's?)

[linkstar69]

That offset will make routing your exhaust around the steering much easier

[69CougarXR7]

Thanks Brian!

Do you have a build thread for the Cougar? (Or the 280 Z's?)

No build threads... Z's are for sale...

My Cougar is a long way off before I will even think of making a thread on it.... Time and funds, especially funds keeps me from going too far on the car.... Plus, the only place I can work on it is at my business location and that is 13 miles from my home... Not exactly kosher for family and the wife for me to spend all my extra time there... So, I work on it once or twice a month during the warmer months..

Here is the most current picture I have available... I actually have the entire front sheet metal and grill removed since this pic was taken..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/D726C5FF54584A85BA299199BAD558E1-1.jpg

Brian

[chevyz240]

That offset will make routing your exhaust around the steering much easier

That's an added benefit!

[chevyz240]

No build threads... Z's are for sale...

My Cougar is a long way off before I will even think of making a thread on it.... Time and funds, especially funds keeps me from going too far on the car.... Plus, the only place I can work on it is at my business location and that is 13 miles from my home... Not exactly kosher for family and the wife for me to spend all my extra time there... So, I work on it once or twice a month during the warmer months..

Here is the most current picture I have available... I actually have the entire front sheet metal and grill removed since this pic was taken..

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/D726C5FF54584A85BA299199BAD558E1-1.jpg

Brian

Yeah, that doesn't sound ideal. Maybe you can say you had to work overtime, and work on the Cougar a bit? :) Are you an airplane mechanic?

[69CougarXR7]

Yeah, that doesn't sound ideal. Maybe you can say you had to work overtime, and work on the Cougar a bit? :) Are you an airplane mechanic?

Yes, I am a licenced A&P IA.... The aircraft in the picture is a long term project.... Finally got it imported to the states and started doing an engine conversion on it this week... It is getting a 6 cylinder Continental 0-470-J (470 cubic inch) that produces 225 horsepower at 2700 RPM... Big upgrade from the 165 horsepower Franklin engine that is in it now...

My primary focus in my business is single engine fixed gear aircraft with a specialty in fabric cover and restoration... I have a Face Book page under Steve's Aircraft if you want to look me up...

Take care...

Brian

[chevyz240]

Today I have reacquainted myself with Blender in order to continue the Datsun modeling soon. There is still a lot to do; rear window, lights, grill etc. The biggest job is trying out different fender flares.

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[Godbolt]

When Mazda revealed the concept RX-Vision at Tokyo it looked familiar somehow. It bares an uncanny resemblance to some of your renderings! (At least to me anyway....)

http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/motor-shows-tokyo-motor-show/mazda-rx-vision-rotary-engined-sports-car-concept-revealed

[chevyz240]

When Mazda revealed the concept RX-Vision at Tokyo it looked familiar somehow. It bares an uncanny resemblance to some of your renderings! (At least to me anyway....)

http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/motor-shows-tokyo-motor-show/mazda-rx-vision-rotary-engined-sports-car-concept-revealed

I hadn't seen that Mazda, James, but there definitely are some similarities! The Aston Martin Vantage also has a few similar lines.

[chevyz240]

Yes, I am a licenced A&P IA.... The aircraft in the picture is a long term project.... Finally got it imported to the states and started doing an engine conversion on it this week... It is getting a 6 cylinder Continental 0-470-J (470 cubic inch) that produces 225 horsepower at 2700 RPM... Big upgrade from the 165 horsepower Franklin engine that is in it now...

My primary focus in my business is single engine fixed gear aircraft with a specialty in fabric cover and restoration... I have a Face Book page under Steve's Aircraft if you want to look me up...

Take care...

Brian

I will look you up on Facebook, Brian!

[chevyz240]

For the first time since almost 7!!! years I have actually physically added something to Mechanix Menace! Previously I have either cut stuff off, or mocked up parts, but today I welded up the rear steering column bracket. It's not completed yet, but it's tacked in place. This feels really good!

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[2ndroundko]

So hows the grafting of the e36 suspension going.

[MOREHORSEPOWER]

Here is a Mazda 1979 RX7
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_0706_zpswwjlzzxi-1.jpg (http://s91.photobucket.com/user/morehorsepower/media/IMG_0706_zpswwjlzzxi.jpg.html)

[chevyz240]

So hows the grafting of the e36 suspension going.

The E39 suspension is mocked up roughly in place but it will take some time before I get to the parts of the chassis that will hold the suspension. First on the chassis fab agenda is the cabin part.

[chevyz240]

Here is a Mazda 1979 RX7
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_0706_zpswwjlzzxi-1.jpg (http://s91.photobucket.com/user/morehorsepower/media/IMG_0706_zpswwjlzzxi.jpg.html)

And???

[chevyz240]

This weekend I have fabricated the front steering column bracket. Seam welding will be done later.

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[chevyz240]

Today I made a rough mockup of the front part of the chassis. Everything isn't there and the exact positioning of the tubes will change. I made it mostly to test how it can be laid out and to see if the firewall design will work with the intended front chassis design. I'm happy with it and I feel I can soon go ahead and start welding tubes for the cabin part of the chassis.

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[bonecrrusher]

Dat Firewall!

[chevyz240]

This weekend I measured the various dimensions of the cockpit mockup using a laser, a tape measure, a level, a steel square and some other stuff. I will use this for my CAD model. Earlier this week I created an accurate center line of the body which was the base for all measurements and which will be used when building the chassis. The height measurements are easy to do, I just point the laser at the point to be measured and read the height on a tape measure that I have taped to the garage wall. The lateral measurements are a bit trickier, I need to set the laser up along the center line, and then measure to it. If there is something in the way of the tape measure, I need to rig up a level vertically, so I can measure from it.

The longitudinal measurements are the really tricky ones. First of all, I have decided to use the highest point on the roof as the zero point for all measurements. With the laser it is transfered to the trans tunnel mockup. Then I rig up a straight piece of wood 90 degrees from the center line at the zero point, using a square to line it up from the center line scribed on the trans tunnel. At the exact width of the point to be measued, I rig up the level vertically and mark the height with the laser. Then I can measure the length coordinate with the tape measure. When I am going to build the chassis, I will probably need to rig up some kind of horisontal plane to measure from.

After all this was done, the wooden cockpit had done it's job and I tore it down. Soon it'll be time to purchase tubing for the chassis.

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[chevyz240]

I am currently drinking beer, listening to music and tweaking the Datsun model in Blender. I have added the rear window and made a rough grill opening. I am making progress! Slowly, but still progress!

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[wfo guy]

All of today's items look good to me! :)

[chevyz240]

All of today's items look good to me! :)

Thanks! Some of the items tasted good as well! :)

[chevyz240]

Datsun progress! Very small, but nevertheless... While working on my Chevy C10 outside, it rained a few times, so, wild and crazy as I am, I went in the garage and cut the remaining parts of the floor off from the rocker panels. I couldn't sleep very well tonight either, so I started thinking about the Z, and the direction I should go. I really would like to build a chassis out of aluminum honeycomb sandwich panels, which would be very stiff and light, but the swedish vehicle inspection doesn't allow that.

Also, I am contemplating making the car more track focused again, as I initially planned. This led me to thinking about maybe making a very simple chassis for inspection purposes, and then building the car the way I want it. This would mean that the body would bolt on to the chassis. I will have to mull this over... If I decide on going back to a racier car, I would skip the stereo, AC, and other comfort stuff, simplifying things. If I get the car light enough, I could also tow it on a trailer legally behind the C10 when going to track days.
As usual, my ideas swing back and forth... The last word is definitely not spoken (or last thought thought) on this matter... Suggestions are welcome! :razz:

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[ed1le]

Awesome build. Currently helping my Dad restore his '71 240Z that my folks bought brand new. Your work on this is amazing. Keep it up!

[chevyz240]

Awesome build. Currently helping my Dad restore his '71 240Z that my folks bought brand new. Your work on this is amazing. Keep it up!

Thanks Ed! I haven't done much in a long time. I have been working on my LS engined 1964 Chevy C10 pickup truck. I hope I will be able to continue work on the Z soon. The next step is to measure the suspension geometry and decide on the placement of the rear subframe and start designing the double A-arm conversion of the front suspension.

Cool to have a one owner Z in the family!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Very cool build! I love these cars. It's nice to see some actually being built!

[chevyz240]

Very cool build! I love these cars. It's nice to see some actually being built!

Thanks Josh!

[Michaels 69]

Very cool build Henrik, you're a great craftsman and have A LOT of Patience!! Keep up the great work.