looking for some input for the suspension guru on my plans for my link setup

[91hrdbdy]

i know this is not a pro touring car, but i will be street driven not a race car by any means, that being said i was going to make this a parallel 4 link with a watts link as a locator but i ran in to trouble due to not thinking about the interference between the watts link and the bags. so i came up with this, tell me how to improve it or what you would do in this situation.

here is my cad Drawing i made up. the the rear end is a narrowed 9" my goal with this car is to have the frame on the ground when air out and frame ride height at around 6"
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/linklayout_zpsfbf6b910-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/stsromeo/media/linklayout_zpsfbf6b910.jpg.html)

here are some photos of where im at and you can see frame profiles
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/WP_20140416_006_zpsb45e71cb-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/stsromeo/media/WP_20140416_006_zpsb45e71cb.jpg.html)

the front link mounts mocked up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/WP_20140427_003_zps1cdfa48b-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/stsromeo/media/WP_20140427_003_zps1cdfa48b.jpg.html)

i have a cnc plasma table so please tell me what oyu would change or how you would do this?

Thanks
Clint

[feeble]

Can you widen your lower links at all? They seem really close together at 20" and the wider the better IMO.

[jerome]

you should calculate anti squat, roll steer, side view swing arm length, etc

[RobNoLimit]

Looks like a good start. A few things would really help to tune up your design. Your right on the money with the idea to keep the spring base as wide as you can (air bags), but this counts for the bars and shocks too. Think about moving the lower bar under the frame, you may have to pocket the front mount into the frame for ground clearance. Keep the bar level at RH. This will do two things, 1) widen the bar stance 4"+/-, 2) give you a location to mount the shocks, in front of the axle, just inside the frame (now that the bars aren't there) The lower shock mount can be built up as part of the lower bar mount, adding stability to both. On the upper bars, the 34 degree split is pretty minimal. I'd shoot for 40*. This can be done without crazy fab work by changing some of the hardware. For the front of the upper bar, swap the urethane adjuster for a high-misalignment style rode end. These travel enough to mount them vertically (with the eyelet and mounting bolt going up/down) so that fabbing the mounts off of the frame rail is easier. The upper bars can be 10% to 15% shorter than the lowers. I would also consider using rod ends on the back of the upper bars, as this will promote free articulation of the axle. This may seem like a lot of changes from your plan but it will pay off in the long run in miles and smiles

[wendell]

Read Chassis Engineering then draw it in plan view. The huge tires and street car packaging will force you to make a lot of compromises but you'll be in the ball park. The internet can contribute from there.