67 chevelle pad recomendation

[Wagonman1967]

Hi Folks, This is my first post on this awesome site. Some info on the car,1967 chevelle wagon, small block 5spd tremec. I converted from 4whl drum non power to the 68-72 disc setup non power. Still has rear drums. 7/8 bore master, 10 lb valve in rear ckt with an adjustable prop valve. I am looking for some better performance out of this setup and figured the pads would be the easy- cheapest way to start without going to a power booster. I have been reading lots of posts and searches. I originally had a master from a 70 Camaro non power disc/drum app that was 1in bore. When I did the trans upgrade I also added the 2 valves in the rear ckt. well lets just say the braking is less than stellar. Pad swap first? Any recomandations on NAPPA part # organic, semi metallic, ceramic?? Thanks... Just threw NAPPA in as it is the only thing out here in the Oregon sticks.

[a67]

Could go with a decent street performance pad such as StopTech Street Performance brake pads. These are in the high FF range.

Bob.

[Wagonman1967]

thanks a67 picked some up today and they are on the car. A noticeable improvement. Just ordered a New 70 vette master. Almost there.. HA.

[Apogee]

The '70 C3 Corvette master cylinder has a 1" bore (0.785 square inches), so you've decreased the pressure output of the master cylinder relative to the 7/8" bore unit (0.602 square inches) by ~30%. If you increased the CoF of your pads by ~30%, then you should have a zero net difference in brake torque in the end. Your pedal travel will be 30% less as well, which I imagine could be a good thing given the D52 front calipers (6.7 square inches effective piston area) and rear drum brakes, but it sounds like the 7/8" unit was working, so why the change to a larger bore MC?

Tobin
KORE3

[Wagonman1967]

Thanks Apogee, I have been dinking with this setup for a while and the braking has never been to my liking. After installing the 10lb and adj prop valve it got worse. So I put the 7/8 bore unit on still NG. I figured the Frt pads needed replaced as the rotors were rusty and the rust got on the pads. The brakes got a whole lot more responsive with the FF compound NAPPA pads. I looked @ the original 1in bore master and tried to bench bleed it but could not get any fluid out of the front port. Looks like the port is getting blocked and not letting fluid get sucked in, could actually see a small piece of something covering the hole. I put the NEW master for the Vette app on and low and behold I can now lock the fronts. I belive the new master pushes more fluid, plus the pedal is nice and high and dosent take a lot of leg relatively speaking for a non power set up. Now I can dial in the rears with the prop valve. I am a happy camper, Thanks to all on helping me get this resolved...