LS1 HP Upgrades - under 1500$?

[Jeebus]

Hello, i have a aluminum block LS1 with a Art Carr 2004-r trans, with trans cooler, , swapped into my 1970 Chevelle. Its all stock right now, runs great for a daily driver, but i want a bit more pep...

Any suggestions at around 1500 give or take a bit of $ that will wake this thing up for me?



Thanks

Taylor

[Schwartz Performance]

Are you capable of doing a cam swap yourself? Cam/springs, tune, exhaust, intake, those will wake it up. And if you can afford an ls6 intake still, that'd help drastically.

-Dale

[Jeebus]

I have a shop that can do the swap for me easy enough im sure. Any suggestions on a cam upgrade? or intake?


Thanks

Taylor

[hifi875]

Are you capable of doing a cam swap yourself? Cam/springs, tune, exhaust, intake, those will wake it up. And if you can afford an ls6 intake still, that'd help drastically.

-Dale

What ^^^^^^ said.

[Schwartz Performance]

You'll honestly have best luck going over to LS1tech.com and searching their forums. Or look up some magazine tests with different cam combinations. There's a ton of info online on "which cam" - as a general rule I would not recommend the GM hot cam, unless you can find the same specs but with an LSA number of 112-114 degrees. That stands for lobe separation angle if you didn't know.

Good luck & happy searching :)

-Dale

[Jeebus]

Thanks for the info!

Somebody suggested on another forum an 8-10 lbs of boost turbo system? Any thoughts on this at all?

[Schwartz Performance]

You won't be able to gather a good system for $1500... 10lb is pushing it on stock parts, I'd go 6-8 max.
A decent turbo is $800+, plus wastegate(s) , blowoff valve, intercooler, custom fab, etc..

[Jeebus]

That is kind of what i was thinking also, it had to be more than 1500$

So, can you reccomend a place that i can call to order this all at one time? or is it best to buy individual parts when swapping the cam/springs and everything?

Also, can you tell me anyone you know that even makes a turbo for LSX swapped muscle cars? is there anything specific at all? Im thinking I MAY want to do this in the future, and i would check with them to see if there is anything else i should upgrade.

Thanks so much for the help also!


Taylor

[Schwartz Performance]

I'm not aware of anyone who does a bolt on kit. Especially since there are tight tolerances and with all the different engine setback plates and aftermarket sheet metal it's a little difficult to engineer a bolt in kit.
I would go with the cam swap. Lunati and Comp have a lot of different packages, I'd read up on the swaps and see what suits you. A lot of guys on ls1tech are helpful, but don't go asking questions without doing research or they'll tell you to google it, lol.

-Dale

[srh3trinity]

There was a turbo LS Chevrolet on here. I will try to remember his name. Turbo setups have a trickle down effect when it comes to cost. You would need a turbo cam along with a strong enough drivetrain to handle it, tunes, fuel system upgrades, etc. A cam swap and maybe even upgrading to a different casting factory heads should add to the fun factor. I get most of my LS info on ls1tech.com. They have a great classified section too.

[csouth]

There was a turbo LS Chevrolet on here. I will try to remember his name. Turbo setups have a trickle down effect when it comes to cost. You would need a turbo cam along with a strong enough drivetrain to handle it, tunes, fuel system upgrades, etc. A cam swap and maybe even upgrading to a different casting factory heads should add to the fun factor. I get most of my LS info on ls1tech.com. They have a great classified section too.

I would agree, a cam swap and a set of 243 heads should do just fine....

[badazz81z28]

I would agree, a cam swap and a set of 243 heads should do just fine....



With a $1500 budget, heads are out of the question. The OP is going to see more gains with a cam swap and a good exhaust.

Taylor, what is the goal? There are max effort cams out there that will raise the RPM to a level you may not like on the street but make killer power and there are cams that are not the peak of the power producers, but nice daily driver cams.

I highly suggest doing the work your self or the $1500 budget is gone.

Go to Texas Speed .com and look at the complete packages they sell. http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1158-texas-speed-camshaft-package-w-dual-valve-spring-kit.aspx

You could get something like a MS3/4 , Torquer V2/V3 and see some excellent gains with just the cam.

The left over cash will need to buy you a stall.

[srh3trinity]

Should be able to do better casting stock heads, cam, springs and other cam swap parts for close to that unless he is starting with a decent casting head already. Aftermarket heads would be out of the question and I wasn't talking about them.

[Mkelcy]

You'll honestly have best luck going over to LS1tech.com and searching their forums. Or look up some magazine tests with different cam combinations. There's a ton of info online on "which cam" - as a general rule I would not recommend the GM hot cam, unless you can find the same specs but with an LSA number of 112-114 degrees. That stands for lobe separation angle if you didn't know.

Good luck & happy searching :)

-Dale

I'm curious why you say this.

The article that GMHTP did a while ago (http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/lsx_engine/0911gmhtp_chevy_ls3_engine_camshaft_comparison/photo_03.html) compared that cam to a number of other much more radical cams, and for real world driving, and even at the extremes, for as mild as the Hot Cam is it more than held its own. Given the cam's performance and how little it beats up the valve train, it seems like a more than reasonable option to me at least.

So, why should it be avoided?

[Schwartz Performance]

The performance is decent on the hot cam, never said it wasn't. However, having a narrow lobe separation angle allows more unburned fuel to enter the exhaust, confusing the o2 sensors and makes for a surging idle with a touch of burn-your-eyes at stoplights.

It's not a bad cam but if you can avoid it then you'll end up with better results after tuning it.

-Dale

[badazz81z28]

I was referring to stock castings as well. A good set of LS6 "243" or "799" heads are going to cost you $350-$600+ depending on the condition and market. These same castings in CNC ported form are going to cost ~$1600

For a "little more pep", the stock 243s over the stock 241 is not the best bank for the buck. I would even say so for the intake....get a good cam and spring kit and you will have exactly what you need.

Don't forget a tune will be required. The $1500 is going to go fast! Trust me...I know. I have an LS1 with every single bolt on made for it.

[LS1-IROC]

For that budget, rear gears, spray and a tune will gain you the most fun per dollar.

[csouth]

I was referring to stock castings as well. A good set of LS6 "243" or "799" heads are going to cost you $350-$600+ depending on the condition and market. These same castings in CNC ported form are going to cost ~$1600

For a "little more pep", the stock 243s over the stock 241 is not the best bank for the buck. I would even say so for the intake....get a good cam and spring kit and you will have exactly what you need.

Don't forget a tune will be required. The $1500 is going to go fast! Trust me...I know. I have an LS1 with every single bolt on made for it.

I was not referring to CNC ported, I was referring to stock which flow 30cfm over 241's . I've seen 243's for less than $600 all over the place, so we'll split the difference at $500 leaving $1000. TSP cam and spring kits are $620 and their mail order tune is $225. I think $1500 would cover it doing his own labor....

[charchri4]

To be clear ANY cam swap requires a tune and without it of course it will stink out back. Any low LSA cam especially without cats will stink a bit more than stock at idle but when properly tuned won't surge or burn the eyes.

Everyone likes something different here but for a cruiser / daily driver sort of car I am a like the GM Hot cam and the next bump up their ASA cam. A couple reasons for that not the least of which is both come in crate motors and GM is comfortable putting a warranty on those engines. They are very easy on the valve train and designed to be reliable for track duty and that is a big + in my book. No question the low lift of these cams leaves some power on the table but if squeezing every last HP out of it is not the goal than the GMPP cams are worth looking at IMO.

[badazz81z28]

I would agree, spraying the engine would be cheaper to do, but filling up bottles over time adds up $$$

With an auto trans, you will need a stall and the right gears to support a healthy cam. If the budget is $1500, you don't want to slap money down for cylinder heads.

[67rally]

243's (or 799's) will outflow the 241's and give a small compression bump. There's set on ebay right now (ending today) for mid $300's and/or an under $500 buy it now price. Call Martin at Tick Performance to spec a cam, and supply the appropriate springs.