View Full Version : Froggy 69Bird PT wannabe - "poor dady" VERY SLOW build.
Hello all !!
With you since 2009, thought it would be time for me to start the thread of my 69 Firebird.
Thanks a lot to give me the motivation to work as it won't be a limitless money build show car.
I'll do the best I can, the way it has to be done & I want you to tell me when I go the wrong way.
The car will be kind of "sleeper" & garage built for all I can do by myself.
So...
I have a new house, new job, new garage & the Bird is in with us so easiest to work on it for me.
The "to do" list :
Not starting PT style but will be later, don't worry...
Finish fuel lines check & change
Change the neg. cable of the starter (melted due to headers heat)
Drain fuel tank
Restart engine
Pass the "technical control". We have to in France if we want to drive the car in the street.
Clean the rear end & find the little leak
Find what is the model (seems a GM 10 bolt 8.5") & rebuilt it with new seals to stop the leak.
Clean underneath & inspect if rust spots
Rust-proofing treatment & painting underneath if necessary
Install the new body mounts bushings
Unsettle the old headers & install the new Rare R/A long branch (deport the oil filter if necessary) & Build all the stanless exaust lines.
Buy & install 225/50 R15 Toyo R888
seems a lot to do for me already...
After that :
Order & install :
Front
Speedtech LCA & UCA + QA1 front coilovers
Hotchkis front sway bar
Hotchkis subframe connectors
Rear
ChassisWorks G-Link adjustable Rear 4 Link
Motor
Be Cool Radiator with electrical fan
F.A.S.T. EZ-EFI 1.0 Fuel Injection
Enough said, now time to work
Thanks for reading
Gil
93056
Hi all,
For the curious guys, just wanted to share what I already did on the car :
When I bought it, the carb was on fire (literally) every time I stoped the motor & it was long to see (for me) the previous owner puts a "race" fuel pump, without return to the fuel tank.
So I changed to the normal GM original fuel pump w/ return & fire stoped.
When I used the brakes, it turns right by herself, so I checked the front brakes & discover a GM front caliper to the right, and a Oldsmobile caliper to the left, so I rebuilt & install a complete set of GM original calipers, discs & hoses.
I have also strip down the TH400 & gave it to a local guy to rebuilt as there was no more rear gear & 1st gear pased with very stongly jolt. Also reinstall the gearbox in.
Changed all the fuel hoses from the tank to the fuel pump as I had a serious leak. I will change soon what left from the pump to the carb.
Will post pics of my small french garage & big American car tonight !
Have a nice day
Gil
Hi guys
Here are pictures in my garage
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93101
Gil
leturnracing
04-03-2014, 02:26 PM
Beau projet!!
Merci beaucoup, cousin des Amériques !
Gil
Hi all,
Not a big deal for some of you, but I'm really happy to have time to take care of the Bird. Not a lot done but it's a start...
Finish fuel lines check & change all hoses - DONE
Will just spray some stop-rust & paint to finish the lines.
Change the neg. cable of the starter (melted due to headers heat) - DONE
Clean the rear end - DONE
Have a nice day
Gil
FireBeater
04-23-2014, 04:15 PM
thanks for keeping us posted on the progress. any progress is good progress.
68firebird
04-23-2014, 07:27 PM
nice car! looks like its in fantastic shape to start out with. I am also another on here with VERY slow builds, basically because of funds, LOL. definitely keep posting updates, we may not always post, but we definitely read!
Thank you very much guys !
Always motivating to read little posts, even if our garage builds are not fat $$.
Nice looking cars you guys have !
I'll post everytime I make progress, even little ones !
Next step is cleaning, spraying stop-rust & paint on fuel lines & fuel tank.
Gil
Hi Guys,
Today I changed the fuel filter & stripped down the fuel tank.
It's (a bit) rusty so I cleaned it with scotch-brite, cleaned with white spirit & sprayed a biiiig coat of Rustol stop-rust.
If it's dry tomorrow I'll spray black spraycan paint to finish.
I have also a new sending unit as my fuel gauge is wrong & I'm out petrol in the midle gauge, so it was time to put the new one I had for 5 years in a bag.
Also discover that my trunk flor is badly rusted & previous owner tried to hide it, but when you remove the tank you see...
- NOTE FOR LATER - CHANGE PARTIAL TRUNK FLOOR PANS
Here is the tank, just out of the car...
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Have a nice day
Gil
Hello all,
Quick update tonight :
Here is the tank, ready to go back under the car.
Pretty happy with the result.
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Regards
Gil
68firebird
04-28-2014, 12:10 PM
yep, looks much better!
lucky13firebird
04-28-2014, 04:17 PM
Nice, that car is super nice, keep plugging away ;-)
Thanks a lot guys.
A little rust here & there under it & on few body parts but nothing terrible as I can see.
I should be able to start it up this weekend & do all the liquid levels (fuel, water, gearbox, motor oil) to be more relaxed when i go to the technical control in the next weeks...
One thing that's not cool to me is I think front ride height is too low due to poor quality lowering springs previous owner puts on the car.
As a result, front tires are badly rubbing on inner fenders & headers (old & rusty poor quality also) are too close to the ground and rub against it sometime.
I bought QA1 front coilovers years ago to raise the nose & have more room for headers before I change them to brand new long branch from Rare ( I have also) & home made stainless exhaust.
So, in the next days I'm in to order LCA & UCA from Speedtech and few things like hardware and also a new throttle cable as mine is no more in a good shape.
Gil
68firebird
04-29-2014, 03:45 AM
Sounds good, do you have a side shot of the car at ground level to see how it sat before throwing it on stands? I had lowered mine in the front by two inches with hotchkis springs, but because of the size rim I'm running it was just too low and I also was scraping the headers when going over big bumps or steep entrances to driveways and such. I raised it up a half inch using global west spring spacers. Now I only rub a very little going over large speed bumps.
Hi Rene,
I have this one but we don't see very well.
94721
I'll make closer pictures tonight
Gil
68firebird
04-29-2014, 05:54 AM
Man, that is a very nice looking car! by looking at pic I can understand how you might be rubbing, especially turning. Do you get alot of people staring at it while driving around? I'm assuming there aren't alot of those around there.
Rene,Thank you very much !You're right, almost everybody not deaf is staring... This beast makes a hell of noise with the poor headers & the pierced & leaked stainless exhaust.Hey, you should be surprised like I was first time I came to a local place where some oldies should meet...More or less 100 are parked here once a month, form Triumph, Lotus, or Ferrari to American muscle like Camaro or Mustang...I went there last Sunday for the 50th of Ford Mustang... More than 200 new & old Mustangs from north of France, Belgium & UK, was crazy crowded...Will post pics tonight tooFound a vid on the tube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgyaJ5Xw_rwGil
Here is a picture of my ride height
Less than a 20$ note, really too low for the roads we have here
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Gil
68firebird
04-29-2014, 10:44 AM
Wow, yea that flange is really low, LOL. Looks like that header hit something pretty good too, mine are a lil scraped up too. I'm gonna check that video out!
Tank is back in tonight !
Gil
Have a new battery & fuel is back in...
Decided to rebuild the fuel lines as they are rusted & also I have a hose from pump to carb that I think is too close to the motor pulley so i'll make a hard line. 3/8" Tank to carb & 1/4" return.
Will try to start tomorrow the 3/8" lines.
Gil
Buryingthesun
05-09-2014, 05:01 AM
I have always wanted to paint my bird this exact color
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70 GTO Judge Orbit Orange, I think it is
Fired it up ! Started first try. This 455 Poncho is very nice.
Did also fluid levels, just needed a tear of coolant, no motor oil or gearbox oil for 3 years.
Pretty happy, no fuel leaks & a functional fuel gauge...
Will go to technical control soon, should be next week-end.
Have a good day
Gil
Hey there,
Decided to fight against my poor rusty & pierced exhaust pipes, always hitting everywhere and was not happy with the route in the rear as I think it’s too close to the tank fuel hoses.
First I broke the rusty clamps and pulled to try to remove the rear pipe, from the muffler to the end… But all came… as the pipes wasn’t fixed at the beginning… Nothing tighten in the front, after the headers. Thanks to previous owner...
I cut what I disliked, mocked-up & bought new clamps to tighten all the passenger side. I’ll do the other side tonight.
It’s a (very) short-term solution as I have new long branch headers from Rare waiting in a bag somewhere and 2x Flowmaster mufflers also...
I’ll rebuild the whole new exhaust after getting the technical control. Date for it is May the 31st, so I want to go with minimum stress possible, and a very hot pipe close to fuel hoses is a lot less stress for me.
I’ll post pics tonight !
Have a nice day
Gil
lucky13firebird
05-20-2014, 01:13 AM
He'll yeah, looking forward to seeing your new exhaust. 2.5" or 3" ?
Not sure yet, have to measure the long branch diameter to see what can be done. 2.5" is what's already on the car, affraid of 3"... will see maybe.
Nicks67GTO
05-20-2014, 02:39 AM
Nice Firebird! My GTO has been a long project as well, I started my thread in 09' I think. Iv'e probably got a legitimate 3 years left until its somewhat "complete" but I like to drive mine in between updates. Anyhow sweet bird! Love the color.
68firebird
05-20-2014, 02:58 AM
2.5 Inch would be fine I would think, don't really know if there is an advantage to putting 3 inch on an unmodified big block.
Thank you Nick, beautifull GTO & you did & still do a lot of good work for her ! and your upgrades are top-notch with SPC & Ridetech...
Hope to put mine at the same level one day... but my "terrible two" wants to drive dad's car NOW !!!
Gil
2.5 Inch would be fine I would think, don't really know if there is an advantage to putting 3 inch on an unmodified big block.
Hi Rene,
Yes, I think my Rare LB are 2.5" & mufflers 2.25 in/out so I'll go with 2.5" pipes.
Even if the 455 is slightly modified, not aware of what was done to it but it has good power.
Previous ouwner did a few 1/4 mile runs in UK, Santa Pod arround 2003/2004.
Best run was arround 13 sec. Should be 350/380 HP.
Have a Dyno not too far from home, maybe will go one day to know the specs.
Not so beasty but fine for me.
Gil
68firebird
05-20-2014, 04:41 AM
I'd take it, way more beastly than my 87 chevy 305, thats pretty stock! LOL. I NEED MORE POWER!!!! but alas, the funds won't let me hahahaha
68400BIRD
05-20-2014, 09:37 AM
I have the Rare manifolds and Pypes 2-1/2 exhaust kit. 2-1/2" pipes should be plenty for your motor even if it was built up. On a side note my Pypes kit did not fit very well. I had to do some cutting on the front pipes and have them welded up to change the angles. They were hitting the floor boards. The rest of the exhaust fit just as poorly. But, that is just my opinion. Good luck with the exhaust and I am looking forward to more updates.
Hi 68400,
Thank you !
Nice you have Rare LB too, I'll maybe have questions for you about oil filter, did you put the spacer to have room for the LB ?
And an idea about the torque specs for the LB manifold bolts ?
Are your pipes also from Rare ? Bad to ear your troubles.
I will make my lines by myself with 2.5" stanless tubes...
Hey Rene, come on, your Bird is way nicer, even with less HP.
So, here is what I did tonight:
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Here is the pipe close to the fuel hoses
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The cut
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Mock-up & tightening
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How it is now ! No more hitting, yes !
Should not have troubles with the drive shaft
Next step is driver side !
Have a nice day
Gil
68400BIRD
05-21-2014, 09:02 AM
I did not use Rares pipes after the manifolds.
I would not worry about the torque spec on the manifold bolts. There's not much room for a torque wrench in there. I used metal shim gaskets and tightened the bolts until they felt tight. LOL
I did use a spacer kit to extend out the oil filter and rotate it at an angle.
Thank you, just read your thread, a lot of good infos in for me !
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/upssmiley1-1.gif (http://media.photobucket.com/user/prestonjjrtr/media/Smileys/upssmiley1.gif.html)
Lokar throttle cable & fuel return 1/4 line just arrived !
Will fight tonight with driver side exhaust
Gil
68firebird
05-22-2014, 03:57 AM
excellent! always nice receiving new parts!!!
Thanks Rene, Lokar cable seems exactly what I needed, simple & direct fit.... but, I have to make a bracket... will be next step.
So, exhaust round 2 was more difficult but it's done... Clamps were too rusty, I had to cut them... My new friend is a grinder.
Wasn't possible to remove all the line so I had to fight and it didn't let me do what I really wanted but goal was no more hitting.
I'm not what you call a tough guy so it was not easy but the result is not too bad, considering it's a short therm solution before a complete rebuild.
Here is the result:
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Gil
AtomicFirebird
05-23-2014, 07:41 PM
I like the look of the turn downed pipes. My buddy told me they are very loud when they are located in hat position. It is firebird city on pro-touring.com this year.
Widetrax
05-24-2014, 06:15 AM
Gil,
Great looking 69! Another reason your headers hire the ground a lot is the shock absorbers are to soft for your ride height. The weight of a 455 is pretty high, and it takes really good(stiff) shocks to control all that weight. I hope you can also get the exhaust tucked up a bit higher with the mod you are planning. Not hitting the ground or your floorboards is a difficult accomplishment with so little room to work with. After you hang the new pipes, look into installing a "H" pipe or balance tube as close to the headers as you can, this will improve the sound and will raise your engines low end torque( like a 455 needs help with that!), but they do tighten up the long pipes,and keep them from moving around independently(swinging side to side) so you can keep tighter tolerances between your driveshaft and floorboards. Keep up the good work! And involve your young son in as much of your work as you can!!
Again, great car!!
I like the look of the turn downed pipes. My buddy told me they are very loud when they are located in hat position. It is firebird city on pro-touring.com this year.
Thanks Atomic,
yes, good to see Pontiac projects.
Gil
Gil,
Great looking 69! Another reason your headers hire the ground a lot is the shock absorbers are to soft for your ride height. The weight of a 455 is pretty high, and it takes really good(stiff) shocks to control all that weight. I hope you can also get the exhaust tucked up a bit higher with the mod you are planning. Not hitting the ground or your floorboards is a difficult accomplishment with so little room to work with. After you hang the new pipes, look into installing a "H" pipe or balance tube as close to the headers as you can, this will improve the sound and will raise your engines low end torque( like a 455 needs help with that!), but they do tighten up the long pipes,and keep them from moving around independently(swinging side to side) so you can keep tighter tolerances between your driveshaft and floorboards. Keep up the good work! And involve your young son in as much of your work as you can!!
Again, great car!!
Thank you Widetrack,
I know what you mean, Front shocks are not very well & springs as well.
Planned to change them when I receive the U&L control arms.
Have to order them, I think I'll go with a full Hotchkis mods for this car, front & rear.
Also the rear shocks are too bad, old dead air shocks I have mesured a 1.5" ride height difference from rear passenger to rear driver side. So will have to change them soon.
Questioning about QA1 Asian stuff... bought them long ago but I prefer "made in USA" so maybe will go with Hotchkis shocks & big block 2" drop springs if I don't like QA1.
Thanks for the H pipe tip, I'll see that closely.
My son is too young today, but I hope he will like American muscle cars as I do
Regards
Gil
Widetrax
05-25-2014, 09:44 AM
Gil,
I was also interested in the QA1 shocks, when I inquired about them to the guys in the shops working on custom and race cars they all said get another brand! They all said they have problems with them leaking. But they are rebuildable, so maybe they just need better quality seals when redone.
I have heard a lot of good talk about Hotchkis suspension products, the autocross racing cloud really likes them.
Also a father of 3 boys, I try to get their assistance whenever I can. Even just to hand you tools, they will learn and build interest. They are the next generation of caretakers of our great hobby!
lucky13firebird
05-26-2014, 08:33 AM
the big block springs I have from hotchkis are AWSOME. there's a reason people arounf here like hotchkis stuff, its well balanced. I have really short 255 35 18 tires on the front and the car sits low but my headers only hit things on really really bad bumps. as far as shocks, i'd go with the ones hotchkis recommends as a match for their springs BUT i have to say, when i did my hotchkis front springs i just went and got some $30 shocks from a parts store. I didn't go the cheapest route, but whatever the "premium" ones they offer for $30 instead of $25 or whatever and I've been nothing but happy. A large sway bar really helps with that, in fact springs and sway bar are a must. but shocks can be changed in 25 minutes so just get some fresh ones. if you only have the money at the time for a sway bar and springs or shocks and springs, go with the sway bar and springs... the sway bar is a pain to install so you need to do it when you have the front end apart for the spring install... then just throw in some fresh shocks. shocks would really help out with slalom weight transfer back in forth, but like on highway entrance ramps where you're cornering hard but its a steady turn you'll be wishing for a decent sway bar i you didn't have one...
I like my exhaust turndowns before the axle, slightly less loud in the cab because its not resonating through my trunk (still louder than full exhaust out the back, just not as loud as a squared off muffler tip) BUT with 3" dual exhaust I really didn't want to run the passenger side pipe by the little rubber fuel hose from the fuel tank connecting to the fuel line... so turndows it it. and like widetrax said a crossover REALLY helps.
i've figured out the pontiac city situation here... everyone loves the F body for the handling and its usually 40% cheaper to get a decent pontiac F body than a camaro in similar shape so all the not rich kids buy firebirds... hence the "poor boy" thread, my "daily driver" and the "on a budget" threads... it all goes hand in hand.
and as far as the tempests and GTO's well, those are amazing cars so its only natural that people build those. the a body gm cars come with the exact suspension stock that many pro touring guys copy into the first gen F body cars... or similar anyway, so they're a natural start to good solid track cars... and that pretty much then covers why there's so many elcaminos, chevelles, and Tempests, and the occasional olds or buick...
oh here's a pic of a good sway bar at work... I jacked up the left side of my car yesterday to get to the transmission shifter and the right side sat a mile high because the sway bar wouldn't let just the left wheel drop but was forcing the right side down too.... this REALLY helps keep the car flat and those low profile tires flat and sticking around corners...
C'mon, Luky,
put a jackstand in your trunk next time ! Safer than just a jack.
Heard you guys, I'll go with Hotchkis, but L&U Control arms will wait.
I'll go with sway bar, BB 2" 600 lb/in drop springs & front coils from them. Will cost less for better handling.
Will also put the QA1 for sale in the french market as they are brand new in the box.
i've figured out the pontiac city situation here... everyone loves the F body for the handling and its usually 40% cheaper to get a decent pontiac F body than a camaro in similar shape so all the not rich kids buy firebirds... hence the "poor boy" thread, my "daily driver" and the "on a budget" threads... it all goes hand in hand.
This is a crazy thing as firebirds were originaly more expensive & with more options than Camaros, and todays "budget builds" have original electrical 4 windows & seats, A/C front discs brakes and other options that Camaros had not... Good revenge from the Firebird !
Luky, your Bird is beauty, front in this picture looks like a 69 GTO
Have a nice day guys
Gil
Hi guys,
Technical control is done and OK for 2 years !!!
Real things will start soon :
Fuel lines to rebuild, throttle cable, exhaust, body mounts...
Will order this week front Hotchkis suspension (sway bar, springs & coils) & X-pipe for exhaust.
Happy I'm allowed to drive & to have little time and money to take care of the Bird.
Have a nice day
Gil
lucky13firebird
06-01-2014, 08:54 PM
nice, glad you can drive it now. you're gonna love the hotchkis springs and coils. good stuff, really. I snapped my throttle cable coming home from work two days ago, had my buddy come and get me and we bought one from a bicycle... put it in, trimmed it to fit and viola! I'm driving home again and racing on sunday. cheap fix and it worked for me. and I have like 3 feet of spare cable just sitting in my dash in case it snaps again, which shouldn't happen for another 3 years so... yeah. ;-) btw my little guys love "driving" my car too. they always climb in and make motor noises, today they were begging for the keys when they were in there but no way I'm giving them those, last thing i need is to get run over while bending up a new fuel line to the carb.
-today i went to the track again, and remembered what you said and made sure to bring my own jack and jackstand, I even used the jackstand when I was adjusting someting and while making sure the shift linkage was still on tight ;-)
Thanks Lucky,
btw my little guys love "driving" my car too. they always climb in and make motor noises, today they were begging for the keys when they were in there but no way I'm giving them those, last thing i need is to get run over while bending up a new fuel line to the carb.
Hum... No need driving licence to run 1/4 mile, right ? ... Maybe your guys could clock a better time than this week-end daddy's runs ? Eyes closed ? :drive: OK, I'm out....
My cable is already a bike brake cable... Thanks from previous owner. Already fixed twice... and "hand throttle" is not really fun even with an auto trans...
My son wasn't afraid yesturday when I fired it up, I'm thinking of putting a rear seat belt for his safety seat. Will be a blast to cruise with the familly
Gil
lucky13firebird
06-02-2014, 10:40 AM
You saw the car seats in mine in the videos... my kids go to sleep in that car in their car seats. 3" exhaust and everything...
Yep, I have to unbolt the rear seat cushion.
With a little chance prev. owner just hide the belts under.
Will have to write a list with the "to do" things...
Gil
68firebird
06-03-2014, 02:16 AM
Yep, I have to unbolt the rear seat cushion.
With a little chance prev. owner just hide the belts under.
Will have to write a list with the "to do" things...
Gil
Hahaha, I was trying like hell for years to get the old belts out of the back of mine, I just could not figure out why the bolts wouldn't come out, cause I am changing it over from the aqua color to black! Until last weekend, from under the car I realized that when I had my exhaust put in many years ago they welded the hangers to them underneath the car, HAHAHAHAHAHA. guess I'll have to make a trip to the shop and have them change the hanger position!
Buryingthesun
06-03-2014, 08:22 AM
I know I have said it before, but im absolutely in love with the color of your car
I know I have said it before, but im absolutely in love with the color of your car
Thanks mate, it's a return in the seventies !
Pretty sure it's 1970 Pontiac GTO "The Judge" Orbit Orange, but I don't have paint code.
Gil
Hahaha, I was trying like hell for years to get the old belts out of the back of mine, I just could not figure out why the bolts wouldn't come out, cause I am changing it over from the aqua color to black! Until last weekend, from under the car I realized that when I had my exhaust put in many years ago they welded the hangers to them underneath the car, HAHAHAHAHAHA. guess I'll have to make a trip to the shop and have them change the hanger position!
Thanks Rene,
Hope mine are not welded and the belts still under the cushion...
Gil
Not much work done for now, just fixed a little fuel leak as one of my return hose was too large for the line.
Changed to the good size and should be good now !
Actually turning things over in my head about the fuel lines routing on my car.
The more I see it, the more I think I'll reroute the simplest way as I don't want to bend the new lines like a crazy snake to be able to reuse the attaching points.
So I decided to do something as straight as possible and drill holes when needed.
Planned to start tonight, will post pics soon...
Have a nice day
Gil
mikewoods
06-12-2014, 06:08 AM
It looks great Gil! Its awesome to see some American muscle in France!
Thanks Mike.
And thanks to your country in 1944, or there would be only Mercedes in Europe...
Thanks for my freedom to rebuild an American Muscle in Europe today !
My small tribute is to do it the best I can
Gil
68firebird
06-12-2014, 09:07 AM
Thanks Mike.
And thanks to your country in 1944, or there would be only Mercedes in Europe...
Thanks for my freedom to rebuild an American Muscle in Europe today !
My small tribute is to do it the best I can
Gil
:usa:
well said Gil.
Thank you Rene,
Well, I have seen the fuel lines route better tonight and was able to spray some french "kind of" PB blaster on all bolts.
To rebuild the lines won't be easy as they seems to be in two lines for outward & one line for the return...
My plan would be to start from the tank, cut the lines when arriving at the subframe and put hoses (easiest if I have to unbolt the subframe later),
then continue with lines to the fuel pump.
97317
Took a look to the headers also... There is no room...
I think this will be a pain to have all unbolt & bolt the long branch if the motor is not out of the car...
But this will be another mission.
Fuel lines first, starting this week-end.
Gil
Hi guys,
Had only two hours to work on the car so I did the smalest line.
Had to train with the bender, fight with the clamps, had a fuel shampoo... Well only good things...
Before :
97392
Old & new :
97393
Result after a little cleaning :
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Will try to continue tomorrow but won't be as "easy" as today
Have a good day
Gil
Fuel line part II
Did the whole 1/4" return lines today, decided to go with annealed copper, easier to shape as the lines are turning like crazy.
Not a pro job but it's done, was not really easy, I have to find the same copper for the 3/8" outward line.
Before :
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After :
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Gil
68firebird
06-16-2014, 06:03 AM
Looks good to me Gil! Everything on mine is basically the first time I'm doing it, so nothing is coming out a "pro" job LOL. Thats what low bucks and almost no skills gets me hahahaha.
lucky13firebird
06-16-2014, 07:09 AM
You can use copper for fuel? Didn't know. The fuel line I buy is steel and that stuff is a nightmare to fight
You can use copper for fuel? Didn't know. The fuel line I buy is steel and that stuff is a nightmare to fight
Some will say yes and others no, but...
An original 1930 chrysler has copper brakes & fuel lines.
The only problem I have seen with using copper for fuel lines is vibration. That's why I put hoses at the tank, at the sub frame & at the fuel pump. annealed copper is really easy to shape.
Will see, if cracks or leaks I'll go with a hose all the way from fuel pump to tank
Gil
Looks good to me Gil! Everything on mine is basically the first time I'm doing it, so nothing is coming out a "pro" job LOL. Thats what low bucks and almost no skills gets me hahahaha.
Thank you Rene,
Same with me. No skills & no tools... But I learn fast.
Ok wanted to buy copper to build the 3/8 lime but... I'll wait as rubber hose is cheaper than copper...
Also the little froggy don't want to be involved in the copper/not copper controversy.
Also if I use rubber hoses I will clean all the way, spray stop rust & paint
So, maybe it's urgent to do nothing...
Gil
Fuel lines 2.0 :
So... My bad, I should have used Cunifer copper/nickel for the fuel lines.
I think I'll go with 1/4" & 3/8" rubber hoses or Cunifer all the way fastened with P-clamps.
What do you think ?
Gil
68400BIRD
06-18-2014, 05:31 AM
I'm not sure what would work best.
Fuel line kits are fairly cheap but I suppose the shipping is the killer.
If you use rubber make sure to use fuel line and I would probably use the double wall line.
There has to be a reason why they did not run rubber lines from the factory. Steel lines I would assume are more expensive and harder to install.
Try to get some more responses before changing over to just rubber lines.
sebtarta
06-18-2014, 09:49 AM
If you can get CuNiFer lines I would do that. That is what I am doing in my car for brake lines and fuel.
Thanks guys,
Yes, I'll try to find CuNiFer, If I don't I'll go with Right Stuff stainless lines from Su..it.
Will pay a kidney but I don't want to play with my familly lifes.
Gil
sebtarta
06-18-2014, 10:49 AM
You should be able to find it local there. Or hop on the train and go across the channel to UK and buy it there.
Thanks Seb,
Found CuNiFer in UK & DE, will buy a roll soon.
So...
Sold the QA1's $$
And few nice things arrived today https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/05/upssmiley1-1.gif (http://media.photobucket.com/user/prestonjjrtr/media/Smileys/upssmiley1.gif.html)
Sway bar, springs, coils from Hotchkis,
throttle cable & bracket from Lokar
MagnaFlow stainless X-pipe.
98079
Gil
68400BIRD
06-25-2014, 06:59 AM
Nice shipment of parts. Now get busy!!!
driveit
06-25-2014, 11:42 AM
Like Christmas morning on the hood of a Pontiac! Nice build so far. Keep it up.
Nice shipment of parts. Now get busy!!!
Thanks, yes that's the plan ! Starting tonight...
Like Christmas morning on the hood of a Pontiac! Nice build so far. Keep it up.
Yes ! The toy is not cheap but it's worth it.
Thank you
Gil
lucky13firebird
06-26-2014, 03:30 PM
Nice score. I destroyed my rear end gears so I'll be catching rides to work for a few days until I put new gears in mine, so no fun for me. Looks like youre about to have a good time putting all the goodies in your bird though ;-)
Hi,
Little update today !
If you just want to kill your ball joint boot, use this... Will have to buy new boot...
99508
99517
If you want to remove your ball joint, use this tool, tighten, spray wd40, tighten again, wait 30 sec, and plop, ball joint is out...
99516
I removed the sway bar from both side, removed the coil, ball joint & spring, cleaned a little...
99515
99514
99513
99512
99511
Old parts : Previous owner cut the spring, that's one of the reasons the car sat way too low...
99510
New ones :
99509
Have a nice day guys
Gil
lucky13firebird
07-14-2014, 05:46 PM
Oh man, I remember when I did the exact same thing.... your gonna absolutely LOVE those Hotchkiss springs and sway bar... ;-)
Thanks Lucky,
Yes, I think it will be a big improvement from what I had...
Well, I did a little cleaning & spraying rust-stop and paint while waiting for the ball joint dust boots...
Need to do the inner fender as well now..
100079
Have a nice day guys
Gil
Tuske427
07-23-2014, 09:33 PM
Thanks guys,
Yes, I'll try to find CuNiFer, If I don't I'll go with Right Stuff stainless lines from Su..it.
Will pay a kidney but I don't want to play with my familly lifes.
Gil
Cool build, an good luck with the CuNiFer line. I used it for my brake lines, and yeah, it cna basically be bent by hand, and is repositiionable should you not get it where you want it the first time you bend it.
I would also highly recommend some "gravel guard". It's the spring looking material used to protect the lines. The factories used it, and for good reason to protect hte lines form gravel/ damage, etc. You cna get it in various thicknesses, and in SS too.
Here's a link as an example:
http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=gravel%20guard
I'd also recommend a brake flaring tool like this. I'd give this one 5 stars. This really has made making flares super simple and fast:
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Good luck!
Thank you Tuske,
I have also started CuNiFer lines, it's stronger to bend than coper but way easier than steel or stainless.
Gravel guard spring should be a good option to protect them. Thanks for the link.
Gil
more update,
Front passenger side is done, just waiting the ball joints boots to put it back together.
100624
Sway bars, old & new :
100625
Also started driver side. Ball joint is out, & spring and shock too...
100626
Need to clean and spray stop-rust & paint like the other side
Have a nice week-end
Gil
lucky13firebird
08-02-2014, 10:35 AM
You'll love how responsive and flat the car will stay with the new parts ;-)
Thanks Lucky,
I'll do as much as I can before vacations as I will have the dust boots when I come back the 1st of Sept.
I can't wait to drive it again !
Gil
Update for today :
Both sides are done & sway bar is in place...
100928
100929
Sway bar was a little pain to place... even with the lower arms down...
I can't imagine doing it with the A-arms bolted... No pain, no gain... I did it, yeees !
Have a nice day guys
Gil
Hi all,
Back from vacation, ball joint boots finally showed up...
Pretty nice fit on factory lower BJ.
102317
102316
Should be a roller again this week end.
Gil
lucky13firebird
09-07-2014, 04:49 PM
You get it all together yet?
Well... No. I did the lazy guy this weekend...
Spent my time with the family. Work should be done this week.
Gil
PiedmontSS
09-08-2014, 08:06 AM
Your bird looks great, makes me wish i still had my 67. I was suprised at the number of old American cars i saw cruising around Nice and Cannes when i was visiting a few years ago.
Half lazy in fact...:hammer:
I did the driver side & I wait to have it on the ground to bolt the sway bar endlinks
102516
I'll try to continue tomorrow.
Thanks a lot Piedmont, and welcome !
Yes a lot of money in the south of France :look:
But also nice cars in the north, but weather is not so nice.
Have a nice day
Gil
Small update :
Both sides are done & greased.
102603
102604
Next I have to finish the return fuel line before I can put it on wheels to bolt the sway bar endlinks
102605
102606
Have a nice day
Gil
lucky13firebird
09-10-2014, 04:12 PM
Nice, man its always been a dream of mine to roll around europe in a muscle car ever since i saw "XXX" the movie. That'll never happen though so ill just settle for rolling around america.
Thanks !
XXX 67' GTO is very close to your Tempest.
Road tripping around america will be bad ass with it when done...
If you come to France for vacation you can come here riding the Bullet & have a beer !
Gil
Hi guys,
She's back on 4 wheels !
Here is the before & after ride height, think I won more than an inch.
103109
103108
I'll took her for drive test next week & let you know.
Have a nice WE
Gil
Buryingthesun
09-21-2014, 01:31 PM
Looking great Gil
Looking great Gil
Thank you very much !
All is tightened & greased,
just need a little time to start her & test drive...
Gil
Hi guys,
Started her tonight, I have a little coolant leak at the firewall when coolant hose goes into the heater in the passanger side.
As I don't need heater in the car I think I'll bypass it with a longer hose from water pump to motor block...
Later I'll see what can be done but I think the heater nozzles are cracked so I'll have to weld to fix the leak
What do you think ?
Have a nice day
Gil
Nope, piece of cake... nothing has to come apart fender wise... if the blower motor is still good anyway. Ive done it once, theres six or so sheetmetal nuts on the firewall and the the whole heater box can be pulled off on the inside... if the cables are in the way undo them, and make sure to mark them. Theres three of them and an electrical connection, the box comes off under the dash and you replace the heater core, make sure not to bust the new one like i did (my motor sits back more than stock btw, thats what broke it) and connect the hoses and push the cover back on... connect the three control cables and the electrical plug and tighten up the six sheet metal nuts in the engine bay.... and enjoy your heat...
OK, removed the 5 sheetmetal nuts I found on the firewall, 4 were easy, fifth was lower left, a bit tricky behind inner fender. ask your wife to remove it if you have too big hands.
I'll shake the heater core box from inside the car tomorrow to see if it can be removed.
Have a nice day
Gil
Ok, shook the heater box a little (not all night long),
seems Ok to move but I'll have to be careful as I don't wanna break the plastic pins & heater core nozzles seems not Ok to come...
I'll have to twist them a bit... will see that tomorrow.
104344
104343
See yall
Gil
lucky13firebird
10-22-2014, 04:20 PM
just be careful, hopefully it works out for you... always could reroute or cap off temperarely... but defrost is a very useful thing and you're already part of the way there...
Yep, did it relatively that way and it works almost simply.
Seems the lower nozzle had been fixed once, this time it's the upper leaking.
Removed the glove box & you have all access to the wires and the heaterbox came well.
104387
104371
Waiting the new one now
Gil
lucky13firebird
10-23-2014, 06:52 PM
Brother i need your help, let me know what cable goes to what control lever of the three levers in the heater controls while you still have it apart... see i undid mine 2 years ago and never hooked them back up...
No problem Lucky, I'll see that tonight for you...
From what I saw, the lever in front of the plug is warm cold/hot & the one behind is the off/de-ice.
Hope this will help
Gil
So... Collecting parts...
Received my heater & rad. hoses today.
Still waitting the heater core.
My buddy told me my 455 needed a breather so I changed my crappy old oil cap to a nice Earl's Perf. breather, pretty nice & tight fit and clean looking.
Will start work & post pics tonight
Have a nice day
Gil
Here is the new breather :
104648
New rad. hoses with the old one still in place :
104649
Gil
This Dayco upper rad. hose fits really perfect, much better than the other crappy one in place before, lying on the alternator...
104651
104650
Gil
lucky13firebird
10-29-2014, 12:52 PM
Nice, thanks for the help. Got to go to goodguys show, failed at autocross but got to see soooo much and did two laps on the nascar oval so that was cool. Good luck, its better and easier to fix the heater than to reroute and then crash the car one morning because you have no defrost... ;-)
No worries !
Goodguys @ Charlotte, sounds awesome...
Will wait my son to grow up a little before coming, so he will remember better.
Fortunately it's not my daily car...
Gil
Hi all,
Heater core showed up, here are old vs new :
104923
Will put all that back in this WE
Gil
Buryingthesun
11-07-2014, 03:51 PM
Gil is that an aluminum core? It's too bad you couldn't get the copper core rebuilt
Yep, seems alu, not what I ordered... I plan to see what can be done with the copper one later with a truck radiator rebuilder...
Gil
Core & box are back in and heater hoses are in place.
Still have to drain the coolant and change the lower rad. hose.
Gil
Hi guys,
Not really fun to do but all is done !
Just need to drive & check coolant level & temp.
About to order parts for the rear suspensions, fed up with the old crappy air shocks, I have an inch ride height difference in the rear right vs left...
Will go Hotchkis shocks HPS 1000, rear upper shock mount plates & shock tower brace.
Will also collect pipes for the new exhaust.
Gil
Hi guys,
Started her today, seems all OK.
Quite happy with all I've done & no more coolant leaks.
Can't wait for the rear supension parts to arrive...
Gil
andrewb70
11-23-2014, 09:37 AM
Nice work Gil. Why the preference for a copper heater core instead of the aluminum?
Andrew
Thank you very much Andrew,
Your work on the GTO is awesome !
Well, no preference, If it's not too expensive, the copper one will be rebuilt as an original spare part.
Alu is a lot lighter, if the job is done right I'll keep it.
Gil
Sean Cooke
11-27-2014, 12:08 PM
Gil, great build thread... car is coming along nicely
Thanks a lot Sean, your Chevelle is really amazing !
Mine is more like a shy resto/PT wannabe with my penniless wallet...
I feel like a lazy idiot sometimes compared to the other builds here but it's a good way to be motivated & learn a lot.
I will have my rear suspension parts end of next week, I can't wait to throw these crappy old air shocks... next will be the full exhaust this winter.
Have a nice day guys
Gil
Hi Guys !
Good news is I have my new rear shocks :
106157
Bad news is I found a gift from previous owner when I removed the vinil carpet glued in the trunk :
106158
106159
106160
Will try to start to work this week-end
Gil
68400BIRD
12-05-2014, 06:29 AM
Great progress!!!
I would not worry about not having a copper heater core in the car. The aluminum one is just fine.
I ran the Bilsteins in my last car. They were a great shock.
The trunk does not look that bad. At least it's just the plugs that look rusty. You can buy those aftermarket or just make some new ones. I used black caulking from the local hardware store to put mine in.
Thanks a lot mate,
Unfortunately it's worse than it seems, when I removed the fuel tank month ago I saw there was a hole close to the left plug, in the midle...
all the area arround the left plug has to be changed... The work for next year will be body prep.
Gil
This nice rear shock tower brace showed up today
106208
Gil
Hi guys,
Did the passenger side today
106221
106222
106223
Will try to do the other side tomorrow
Have a nice day
Gil
Job is done, back on 4 wheels
Fun part was to bolt upper shocks & tower bar, lying down in the trunk...
106247
Ride height is way better, 25 inches front & 24,5 inches rear from ground to fender lip... Also pretty happy I don't have the 1 inch rear L/R difference anymore.
106248
Now I must drive & see how it feels...
Next is exhaust
Gil
68400BIRD
12-11-2014, 01:34 PM
You will be happy with the ride.
I was thinking about getting one of those braces.
Thanks,
Winter is starting here... always rain... Hope this week end will be a little dry so I can drive a few miles...
Brace sould reduce chassis flex in the rear. Easy to install.
As I have to do something with my rear end, maybe change for a Ford 9" if not too difficult to swap, I'll wait for the rear sway bar.
If raining this week end I"ll clean my rear inner fenders & cut the lips so the tires won't rub anymore...
Seems this rear end is a GM 8.5 10 bolt, from a GTO 71, (motor too), so it's a little wider than stock 69 rear end & I'll have to cut inner lips to stop the tires to rub...
Not easy to find GM rear ends here in France... Found Ford 8" & 9" with 3.00 ratio for the moment...
but if I have to swap the perches and re-drill the bolt pattern + buy new drive shaft & rear disc conv. kit, it's a bit too much for my wallet...
Wait & see if I can find a stock 8.5 10 bolt because the one I have is modified to mount the scary EU disc brake setup
106386
106387
Gil
Mach1_Ron
12-12-2014, 05:03 PM
Don't cut the Fender Lips, fold/roll them up out of the way. Cutting them weakens your Quarter Panel... Eastwood makes a Feder Roller or if you GOOGLE it you'll see some folks use a Baseball bat with good results. I have a 70 mustang and bought the Eastwood Tool and did ALL 4 of my fender lips with Great success. Go SLOW and use a HEAT Gun.
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the trick, cut was not the word, my intend was more to "incise" every inch or so & fold over the inner fender.
Baseball bat sound a good idea & won't weaken the panels...
Gil
Did a little cleaning, sprayed stop-rust & paint... same as the front.
Before
106435
After
106436
Gil
lucky13firebird
12-14-2014, 06:31 AM
Those are some crazy looking brakes. Yeah a 9 inch would work good. Or a 95-2001 ford explorer 8.8 btw, don't know if you have scrap yards with those... 9 jnch is your best bet though.
Hi Lucky,
Yep... always run in to crap from the previous owner... Front rotors from BMW 5 serie & front calipers from a Citroën XM...
They reduced the axle diameter to fit the rotors and cut the original plates & welded another to adapt the calipers.
Not really happy but it's braking OK & have a posi 2.73, perfect for the TH400 3 speeds on highways, just need a prop. valve to brake better...
Hope to find a stock 8.5 10 bolt housing to give all to a guy I know and rebuild one with the 2.
9" Ford is 800$ + week-end driving to pick-up & a lot more work & $ to addapt & rebuild...
Gil
Hi guys,
Bought & started reading Tony Huntimer's book, a mine of good infos, really helpful & nicely written...
So I ordered few things to improve the Bird this winter.
Water neck gasket, so I'll see if my thermostat is drilled to bleed trapped air.
Universal joints as I think they are worn & I have a drivetrain vibration starting at 100km/h.
Adjustable prop. valve to have a better balance with my brakes & feel better before changing my weird rear brakes.
Also "to do" list this winter still are throttle cable change, replace body mounts & rebuild the whole exhaust lines.
very merry end of the year all & long life to this forum.
Gil
lucky13firebird
12-28-2014, 09:38 PM
Wilwood prop valve worked great for me. Adjust as needed. Personaly as long as the brakes work you might be fine for a long while... ;-) its getting parts as they break thats the most important.
I love my 2.56 posi rear end. So i can see how you love yours. Great for actual driving.
Started to replace throttle cable
old mount
106984
New in progress
106985
Gil
Hi all,
Job is done, relatively simple install, nice product & look.
Clevis @ the pedal makes it easy too.
107032
Happy new year !
Gil
andrewb70
01-01-2015, 10:22 AM
Gil,
Nice work on the throttle cable. The old setup looks scary.
I don't see anything terribly wrong with the rear brakes. One issue is that the rotor is not centered on the axle, but you said they machined the axle flange so it fits inside the rotor, right? If it was machined for a relatively tight fit, then it's probably doing a decent job of centering the rotor on the axle. There is nothing wrong with having a bracket welded to the axle tube. That's how NASCARs are built...LOL
Andrew
Gil,
Nice work on the throttle cable. The old setup looks scary.
Thanks a lot Andrew, old one was really weird and broke several times so I had enough with it.
I don't see anything terribly wrong with the rear brakes. One issue is that the rotor is not centered on the axle, but you said they machined the axle flange so it fits inside the rotor, right? If it was machined for a relatively tight fit, then it's probably doing a decent job of centering the rotor on the axle. There is nothing wrong with having a bracket welded to the axle tube. That's how NASCARs are built...LOL
Andrew
Not that I find it terrible, if OK for Nascar, it's OK for me.
Yes, machined & tight fit as I can see, hope the drivetrain vibration is not due to lacks of centering. If the U-joint replace do not solve it so I know.
Not the fact that a bracket is welded to the tube, but Nascar haven't got front Citroën XM calipers & BMW 525 Touring rotors bolted to the rear axle, it's not really serious for an American muscle car. Also as it's staggered shocks, driver caliper is upside down...
It's braking OK for the moment but bias is not very good, so I hope to solve with a prop. valve.
Also I may have a fair deal for a Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro Series front kit "maybe".
If I have it, do I have to change my stock MC ?
Gil
Maybe also possible - or not - to adapt little Wilwood Billet DynaPro Calipers 2 piston in the rear without mods when changing new bearings & seals.
Wait & see...
Gil
Was about to buy a 4 piston Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro Series front kit at a nice price but just read this thread : https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/104584-Brake-sizing-and-selection-tutorial-featuring-Ron-Sutton-and-Tobin-of-KORE3
So I prefer to go now with my first thought, D52 calipers.
Gil
andrewb70
01-15-2015, 09:30 AM
Was about to buy a 4 piston Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro Series front kit at a nice price but just read this thread : https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/104584-Brake-sizing-and-selection-tutorial-featuring-Ron-Sutton-and-Tobin-of-KORE3
So I prefer to go now with my first thought, D52 calipers.
Gil
Floating calipers are best for c-clip style rear axles.
Andrew
Diference compared to fixed calipers is the caliper sliding & squeeze the rotor, right ?
D52 front & D154 rear should be a nice "mild" setup
Gil
Looked a lot for a nice set of wheels for my Birthday coming soon.
Wanted an old-school look in 17" & went with Billet Specialties Rival-G.
Still need to mesure everything but here what Rival-G's are.
107832
Anyone knows the center bore diameter of the wheel ?
Thanks
Gil
Shot an E-mail this morning to Billet Specialties.
Answer came really fast : center bore diameter is 3.080”
Gil
Had to put a nut inside the frame to get one of the front sway bar bushing straps bolts tight. Threads in the frame are really weak.
Gil
Measured the wheels I have on the car, seems 15x7 BS 3.75...
mostly sure I can go 17x8 BS 4.5 four corners as I prefer same size wheels/tires front & rear.
Rear won't be a problem, I will see front @ full lock tomorrow if I can add the 0.75 BS.
Gil
armourmark
01-23-2015, 06:21 PM
The frame threads do suck. I have a nut on one side too, very common.
The frame threads do suck. I have a nut on one side too, very common.
Hi Armourmark,
Checked my 3 others & seems to be tight enough, good thing as it's not easy to acess.
Received Water neck gasket & Universal joints...
Work should be done in the next weeks.
I think U-Joints replacement will be fun as my drive shaft is stock & U-joints still drowned in plastic. I think the use of an hydraulic press is in my near future...
Gil
Justin@EntropyRad
02-02-2015, 06:22 AM
The wheels will be spot-on for the build
Thanks Justin,
I hope so too... Should be nice.
Ended up to go with 17x8 BS 4.5 four corners, with 235/45R17 Yoko's ADVAN SPORT V105S.
I know I have a little rub in the rear but nothing too difficult to solve.
For the front, I have rased a little with the new springs & button heads inner fender screws should solve the rub too.
So, in the next days I'll have to open the wallet...
Gil
FireBeater
02-02-2015, 04:47 PM
Thanks Justin,
I hope so too... Should be nice.
Ended up to go with 17x8 BS 4.75 four corners, with 235/45R17 Yoko's ADVAN SPORT V105S.
I know I have a little rub in the rear but nothing too difficult to solve.
For the front, I have rased a little with the new springs & button heads inner fender screws should solve the rub too.
So, in the next days I'll have to open the wallet...
Gil
Where did you get the button heads?
I have looked at Lowes, and another Hardware store. I still need to try Home Depot. I can find the button heads but not in the correct size.
Thanks,
Firebeater.
Sorry FireBeater,
Did not source them yet
Gil
Justin@EntropyRad
02-04-2015, 09:03 AM
Like counter-sunk allen bolts and fender washers? or just button-head sheetmetal screws
Thanks Justin,
countersunk allen bolts should be a nice idea too...
I'll see what I can find
Gil
Like counter-sunk allen bolts and fender washers?
Thanks Justin,
I now see what you are talking about, should be way nicer than just button-head screws.
108566
Gil
Hi guys,
Received a little bling today !
108933
Very nice parts from Wilwood...
Gil
Hi old boys !
Made a little progress tonight :
109010
removed water neck to see the thermostat was already drilled
(note the shinny stainless ARP's from prev. owner)
109007
But gasket was not nice, so I cleaned as much as I could
109008
Tomorrow I'll use 518 Loctite & a new gasket to put all back together
109009
See y'all
Gil
Hey y'all !
Wheels wil have a little delay... One was damaged during shipping, so...
As I need 4 wheels on the car I should have them mid. April.
Gil
lucky13firebird
03-13-2015, 06:35 AM
Nice, i really need to replace the ford water neck in my car... your car is slowly coming together good. Loving it.
Thank you Lucky,
Slowly is the word, yep.... Too slow...
Removed the rear seat, no seat belts, but the floor seems very solid, no rust is nice !
110141
Gil
Hi guys,
Rolled the passenger side rear fender lip,
Not pretty but will be out of the new tires way.
110437
Gil
Hi guys,
Wheels arrived @ my buddy shop...
Long trip to drive & pick them up, probably end April.
Teaser ?
110715
110716
110717
Seems awesome !
I need tires...
Gil
Hi all,
Ordered rear seat belt & bolts,
While I was at it, decided to remove the old stuff, cleaned the erea & ordered sound deadner.
111044
Also found & ordered black button head screws for my front inner fenders.
Gil
lucky13firebird
04-04-2015, 06:19 PM
Nice... well, much nicer than what my firebird looks like anyways... i got all kinds of oils, road dust, rust, sandwiches and whatever my kids hide back there... i DO however have seat belts...
Thanks Lucky,
Your car is a daily-driver, can't compare...
Hope mine will become a spring & summer roadtripper soon!
Only found a 5 Francs coin from 1960 when I cleaned...
Gil
Cleaned the rear seat
111122
3 coats of moisturising cleansing milk & elbow grease
111123
Gil
groho
04-06-2015, 11:49 AM
Could you do me a favor and weigh one of your billetspecialties wheel and respond, please. I'm considering a pair of their dyno series in a 17X8, but they can't (won't) tell me how much they weigh. thanks much.
Hi groho,
Sure, no problem, I'll pick them up the 24th & let you know.
Gil
Motown 454
04-06-2015, 02:40 PM
Gil I like the wheels. Floors look great under the back seat.
Thanks Wayne,
Me too ! I like the Old school look with recent 17" size...
Was thinking about spraying kind of anti-rust primer before installing the sound-deadener to protect the floors.
Gil
Buryingthesun
04-07-2015, 01:39 AM
looking good Gil
1965gp
04-07-2015, 02:58 PM
I just read through and really like this build- solid car/solid work. I love the orbit Orange on the 69- shoukd have been offered.
One question- I noticed the tools and parts on the fender; any reason you are not using fender covers or towels? It's makig me cringe- maybe the pics make the paint look better than it does in person.
Thank you guys !
Fender covers is something I have in mind, yes, you are right.
But the paint has not been done well & rust is starting to "bloat" under it, so I'm not very conscientious with tools & things I put on the fenders... I like the orange too, I think I'll keep it for future paint... Maybe with Hood & trunk in mate black, or carbon fiber... too bling bling ?
111265
I'll post pics soon of the rust I see everywhere on the body, I think nothing too hard to solve & hope the only hidden rust holes were in the trunk. Next winter is bodywork in the garage.
Gil
1965gp
04-08-2015, 06:31 PM
Not hating on you at all for it. I caught myself doing the same thing to my 66 GTO. I finally had to remind myself that every ding cost $$ eventually and there wasn't any reason to make the car worse.
I really like the build- new wheels will make the car
No worries,
I'm also here to ear constructive and justified criticism. Fender cover is in order.
Thank you ! I can't wait to have them here, the old Cooper cobra I have are so old, hard & bulged it's no more safe to drive with...
Gil
1965gp
04-09-2015, 07:43 AM
But I bet their fun to drive on!
I finally got my 69 TA clone running good and learned the BFG's I'm riding on are no match for the 455 but are sure fun....
What size tire are you putting on the rear? I had the 275's from my LeMans on the car and they rubbed really bad. That was on a 15 x 8 Rallye II. The 255's on the 15 x 7 Rallye II's fit great but I think I need a better tire.
Yes, Fun when it's raining, crazy slippery when road is wet.... Fun is not the word with Cooper's... But fine in straight lines when you don't brake, or sunny weather...
Wheels are 17x8 Front & Rear, wanted to have same tire size all 4 corners, maybe 235 or 245/45R17, not a too wide fancy tire size, probably Yoko's or Falken's, Toyo's R888 if I burn my wallet
Your GTO Vert looks nice, the blue 69 with white wheels too, got a build thread ?
Gil
Sooo...
Little work done :
2 coats of anti-rust primer
111301
Installed Dynamat Superlite I scored for a fair price & new rear seat belt for my son.
Dynamat is not really easy to install where you don't have much room, this one is also thiner than the Extreme & is a little delicate.
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111303
Put the rear seat back in & cleaned a little
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Gil
Hi,
Not much of an update,
Replaced all the rusty front inner fender bolts, used 15/16 x 3/4 button head screws with anti-seize.
Should not rub anymore...
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Also started to Dynamat behind the glove box & will try to find places of the firewall I can cover.
Gil
Almost ready for spring...
111348
Have a nice week-end
Gil
Hi all,
I have the weels @ home !
They are really nice !
Could you do me a favor and weigh one of your billetspecialties wheel and respond, please. I'm considering a pair of their dyno series in a 17X8, but they can't (won't) tell me how much they weigh. thanks much.
So, It weighs 9.1 kg for a 17x8, should be 20 lbs. Maybe Dyno serie is a little heavier.
More to come...
Gil
Sooo... Test fit :
Front is OK, nice fit...
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Rear is OK too, no rubbing issues...
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but.... I've seen one big issue...
My rear wheel studs are way too short....
Only half an inch is bolted so I have to change for longer ones before driving with the new wheels...
Voilà !! I'll still drive a couple of month with the old wheels...:hammer:
So next is rear end care, axle seals, pinion seal, longer wheel studs, Moser aluminum 8.5 10 bolt differential cover & seal...
Maybe I can replace the studs without removing the axles ?
Gil
lucky13firebird
04-26-2015, 05:37 AM
No way, gotta pull the axles to replace the studs. But don't really need all the other stuff unless you want it.
Sh8...
Not safe to hammer friendly the studs with an open bolt on them to pull them out & bolt the new with a spacer to put it in place ?
I can see the bolt heads behind the disc like in this picture, I have room to remove the old & place the new one...
112034
If not safe I won't do...
The other stuff was while I was at it, as the rear end is leaking, maybe time to take care at the same time
Gil
1965gp
04-26-2015, 01:00 PM
I would think you could knock them out from the front and use a nut to pull longer studs in? Probably not the best way but I'm pretty sure that's how a tire store would fix it.
lucky13firebird
04-26-2015, 05:47 PM
Oh wow, totaly forgot your rear end has everything cut off it... should be just fine in that case to smack em out and smack them in...
68400BIRD
04-27-2015, 09:29 AM
I would rent a ball joint press to put them in. Pulling them in with a lugnut is not a great idea. It might work but it puts undo stress on the bolt.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/DSC07021-1.jpg (http://s319.photobucket.com/user/che77vy/media/DSC07021.jpg.html)
Thanks all,
good idea with the ball joint press
Gil
68400BIRD
04-30-2015, 06:53 AM
Thanks all,
good idea with the ball joint press
Gil
It worked great with the impact gun.
I have tried to pull studs in before with lug nuts. It has worked sometimes and not others.
Hi all,
Valves & tires mounted, everything's OK. 235/45R17 Bridgestone RE050A.
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Decided to put the caps on as it's alu. from USA & not a crappy plastic from China.
Gil
One question- I noticed the tools and parts on the fender; any reason you are not using fender covers or towels? It's makig me cringe- maybe the pics make the paint look better than it does in person.
Received fender cover :naughty: & studs for the rear
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Gil
So...
Drove it last month, 30min ride, no problem, really nice ride...
Tried to start her today but the old lady is a real pain in the neck... No way... No more spark @ the plug...
I'll have to check everything from the plugs to the starter... All the wires & relays... fuses & MSD distributor, not even sure I have an ignition box & coil...
I'm in for new wires all the way too...
Any thought welcome guys...
Thanks
Gil
Investigate a little, seems I have a 8362 - MSD Street Fire HEI Distributor...
That's why I saw no box & coil as they are in the distributor, will test it later if I have juice in/out
Gil
OK, I have juice arriving @ the distributor :cool:
Next I'll open it to see the coil, Ignition Controller Module & things in to check them & see what I have to change
Gil
1965gp
05-22-2015, 10:56 PM
Just start chasing wires... Start where you know you have juice and go from there. Good luck!
1965gp
05-22-2015, 11:05 PM
If you have power to the distributor and not to plugs I would think you should start with a coil. I did read where they recommend some heat compound when you install it.
Thanks65,
Thermal grease where it sits, right ?
I'll open the coil cap & see the extent of the damages...
Should be more than a 10 year old coil, maybe time to change it.
Gil
Received Competition Ingineering subframe conectors & Global West solid body bushings to match
113453
Nice pieces
Gil
Jeff_R
05-31-2015, 03:52 AM
Gil, I love watching the progress on your car! It encourages me to work on mine.
One thing I noticed about those subframe connectors, hold them up before taking the brackets apart. I had a similar set from Summit, and I would need to cut the floor at the rear passenger footwell to make them work. I wasn't about to cut my floor, so they are sitting in my parts shelf.
Keep up the great work!
lucky13firebird
05-31-2015, 03:59 AM
Nice, i need to get the same stuff... my bushings are practically gone and a good set of subframe connectors doesnt hurt. Good luck with that ignition.
Thanks Jeff for the kind words,
well, bought them to bolt them, won't be fun if I have to cut & weld, but I bought a welder for my trunk floor & the exhaust so, B plan in case...
Thanks Lucky, yes same thought, SFC & new bushings are a must have for our cars
1) Ignition
2) wheel studs R&F + install new wheels
3) bushings & SFC
Gil
Hey y'all,
Sooo...
1) Ignition
Replace the old coil, but... still no sparks @ the plug...
Decided to replace the HEI module
113963
Was not really easy with hood in place but no pain no gain !
After changing the module, sparks are baaack !! This is sooo cool !
But the old gal decided that was not over & I found a coolant leak @ the water pump gasket....
One more thing to add in the "to do" list...
2) Have my Moroso rear studs, really nice little pieces
I can finger tight a wheel bolt on them... Not the case with the Mr Gasket's ones
113964
Next is remove the old ones & repalce them so I can mount my new wheels (in the rear)
Front will be next time work
Have a nice week-end
Gil
I would rent a ball joint press to put them in. Pulling them in with a lugnut is not a great idea. It might work but it puts undo stress on the bolt.
Well... Tried with an impact & a lugnut... Indeed it's not a good idea at all...
So, ball joint press & new studs are on the way... :banghead:
But I'll have to remove calipers & rotors... :pat:
Before you want to change wheels, just see if your studs are long enough.
Gil
Hi guys,
Removed the caliper but impossible to move the rotor... even with a torch, middle age style... Seems really rusted & welded with the axle.
114525
Waiting for "THE TOOL" so I can remove the rotor & have access to the axle to press the new studs!
Gil
"THE TOOL" is in the house !
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VERY easy to remove the rotor....
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Now I have access to the axle, so I will clean with stainless rotating brush & stop rust & paint before pressing the studs
Thanks
Gil
Z06killinSBF
07-07-2015, 11:34 AM
I'm loving the progress of this car, those wheels are going to totally change the look of the car. Very nice.
Glad you like it, thank you very much ! I try my best not to make too much crap, but sh8t happens sometimes.
I love to work on the car & just hope the result won't be worse than before ! I just have to do one thing at a time & it will be fine.
I like to follow your Stang too ! Bada$$ car & skills mate ! Would love my 455 with tri-power EFI, but I'm not even skilled enough to install a prop. valve on my brakes, sooo...
Lets clean this axle :hmm:
Gil
lucky13firebird
07-08-2015, 02:31 PM
Looking good, keep up the good work
Thanks Lucky,
try to do my best !
So, here is the cleaned axle
114924
And here is how I press the studs in with an impact gun.
114930
Seems to work fine so far ! fingers crossed !
Thanks a lot 68400BIRD for the trick !
More to come in the week-end.
Thanks
Gil
Motown 454
07-10-2015, 07:04 PM
That ball joint press is a slick idea! What is that puller used for is it actually for rotors?
Thanks Wayne,
Well, no... Hub puller for trucks, 2 to 12 inches with reversible claws, 17 Pounds.
Made in Germany !
Gil
Note for later : Clean & paint after pressing the studs ! Only paint is gone...
115031
While I wait the new rotors (front BMW Z3) I'll clean & paint the caliper and start the driver side..
Gil
Day off in France today !
115071
Caliper brushed, sprayed primer & painted
115068
Thanks
Gil
Hi guys,
Thought the rotors were rusted, but no... the axles are pressed in... so impossible to place the new ones by hand
Previous owner reduced the axles diameters but both sides are not the same measure... :hammer:
So :
Asked a buddy metal worker to remove 0.01" on one side & 0.004" on the other inner diameter of the rotors :thankyou:
so I can place them by hand & anti-seize without having too much running clearance that could result with a vibration...
Should be done on Tuesday
Thanks
Gil
Ben@SpeedTech
07-22-2015, 08:13 AM
Great project Gil! I love the color and where you're headed with the PT look. Keep it going!
Hey Ben, thanks a lot !
Just finishing the driver side, still waiting for the modified rotors...
Can't wait to bolt the rear wheels to see what it's like.
Gil
68firebird
08-03-2015, 08:11 AM
Hey bud, I haven't been on in a bit, just wanted to say she is looking great! Love the new rims!! I want!! LOL. My car is at a point where I drive it every so often when I have time and I'm not coaching one of my kids sports. Its not where I want it to be, but other things have taken more importance. talk to you later.
Hi Rene,
Thanks to chime in ! Too slow but I try to go forward !
Same here, a lot of work to do in the house & familly first, then vaca's in 2 weeks... No time for the car...
Still the rear rotors issue to solve & I can put them back. Have to fight with the prev. owner's mods,
but hey, won't be fun if all were already done the right way by someone else ! :hmm:
Gil
Hey y'all,
Finally rotors are in:seizure:
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Then I put a wheel for mock-up & pics
Voilà !!
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115900
Moroso studs, Gorilla nuts & Billet Specialties Wheels :usa:
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Thanks
Gil
Motown 454
08-09-2015, 12:40 PM
It looks nice Gil!
Thanks Wayne,
I have not enough perspective in the pics to have an overall view, but that shows roughly the result.
I think they will fit the car nicely when finished
Gil
Hi all,
Vacation trip to Normandy, went to Omaha Beach for the remembrance...
116452
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116457
Thanks
Gil
Godbolt
08-23-2015, 05:28 PM
That is a suitably sad looking beach. Poor buggers.
ICrombie
08-27-2015, 02:16 PM
Great project, nice pictures of the beaches too. I got to visit Normandy for a day while spending two weeks in Paris, it was quite a hallowing experience to step on those beaches.
I can imagine that when your car is finished it will be quite a hit in Europe, as you rarely see muscle cars there, let alone a vintage one.
Hi all,
Thanks guys, tried to do some nice shots but weather was not nice !
Back to work !
Rear is done & torqued @ specs
116787
Started the front, I need to separate the hub from the rotor to replace the old studs...
116788
116789
Fun part will begin after cleaning old grease, will also replace bearings & seals with Timken's
Thanks
Gil
Did a little work today
separate the hub from the rotor
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7250-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7250.jpg.html)
Pressed the new studs
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7255-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7255.jpg.html)
All back on with new bearings
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7258-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7258.jpg.html)
Voilà !!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7261-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7261.jpg.html)
Driver side's next !
Here is a mock-up with the Wilwood Caliper just to have an idea, looks cool !
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7259-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7259.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/09/_DSC7260-1.jpg (http://s761.photobucket.com/user/thorboyo/media/_DSC7260.jpg.html)
Thanks
Gil
andrewb70
09-03-2015, 08:13 AM
Gil,
That's looking really good.
Are you French or American living in France?
Andrew
Thanks Andrew !
I'm French, why ?
Gil
andrewb70
09-03-2015, 08:27 AM
Thanks Andrew !
I'm French, why ?
Gil
Just curious. I bet you are one of the few French guys that is into old American muscle cars. Or is there a pretty good old car scene in France?
Andrew
No worries,
French people don't have the car culture very much...
I think the American Muscle Car scene is bigger in Belgium than in France.
I have a car-body repair & paint training but I don't work as it anymore
I worked with a good friend the week-ends @ his shop when I was yonger, mostly on old Firebirds & Trans AM, but never really wanted a car before Fast & Furious, 14 years ago...
My taste is more like Vin Disel, so I looked for a muscle car... and Pro-touring went naturally to me as an upgrade
Not quite sure European oldies guys ready for the Pro-touring yet, it's just an emerging market for guys like me who wants a better handling
Gil
Ben@SpeedTech
09-03-2015, 11:05 AM
That's awesome because not only will you have a unique and cool car, you'll be a trend setter too.
68400BIRD
09-03-2015, 12:15 PM
Car is looking great. Love the wheels. Make sure to get some good pics of the front and rear tires/rims at the same time.
Hi all,
Car is looking great. Love the wheels. Make sure to get some good pics of the front and rear tires/rims at the same time.
Thanks, I surely will, but... Driver side will be a little longer.
Another crazy thing I found...
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As you can see, studs knurl diam. is not the same passenger/driver side :screwy:
passengers are 0.552 but drivers are only 0.462
I need to redrill the hubs knurl holes @ 0.550 so I can press the new 0.560 Moroso studs
Thanks
Gil
lucky13firebird
09-12-2015, 11:12 AM
Yes, one side is chevy and other side is pontiac. Even on drum cars you can get .480 knurl studs or .560 depending on where you get your drum hub from... looking good so far.
Thanks Lucky,
Yep, I though it was something like this.
When I bought the car the driver caliper was an Oldsmobile or else but not a Pontiac, so why not a Chevy rotor...
Thanks
Gil
Redrilled @ 0.551 & pressed !
Money shot with NOS Timken bearings made in USA.
117413
Need to put the caliper back, then the fourth wheel ...
Thanks
Gil
keepat
09-19-2015, 11:29 AM
Gil, The red calipers with the yellow paint look awesome! I know it's a little late but thank you for posting the Omaha Beach pictures!
Pat
Hey Pat, thank you very much !
I like the red/yellow too, my first choice was black paint, but changed my mind to add a little bling bling :headbang:
I think I'll have to paint the rear calipers in red to match the front Wilwood's. Can't wait to have them mounted.
Shame on me, I made a mistake. Pretty sure it's more Utah Beach I posted...
Gil
Finally !
117498
Will test drive this WE & take moar pics if weather's nice
Gil
Ben@SpeedTech
09-22-2015, 07:56 AM
Looks great!!!
68400BIRD
09-22-2015, 08:45 AM
Looks great, looking forward to more pics.
Thanks guys
Better in the sunshine !
117642
Went for a little test drive arround the neighborhood, I still need better brakes but the ride quality is awesome, much more stiff & responsive.
Exhaust is still too low for French speed bumps but I'll soon rebuild it... Really nice improvements so far.
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Thanks
Gil
Kenova
09-27-2015, 05:31 PM
Better get used to being stared at. That 'Bird is going to stand out in European traffic. LOL
Ken
andrewb70
09-27-2015, 07:43 PM
Gil,
The car look great. I wis I could ship my Cougar to Europe and do a month long cruise around the countryside....
Andrew
farl cogetty
09-27-2015, 10:12 PM
a few French cars (couple of 69 camaros etc ) come to the supernationals it would be nice too see a firebird..........
blade
10-01-2015, 07:51 PM
Great looking car! You have done a lot of work to get it turned into a nice ride, great job!
Better get used to being stared at. That 'Bird is going to stand out in European traffic. LOL
Ken
Thanks Ken, I don't see Muscle Cars very often, we have a monthly meeting close to my town, I'll maybe drive by & see what is there, should see nice cars.
Gil,
The car look great. I wis I could ship my Cougar to Europe and do a month long cruise around the countryside....
Andrew
Thanks Andrew,
You just need 4 to 8 weeks ship, 3 to 7K$ & an International Drivers Licence, then sell the Cougar to me if you don't want to pay & wait to get it back !
Maybe you should come with the GTO...:naughty:
a few French cars (couple of 69 camaros etc ) come to the supernationals it would be nice too see a firebird..........
Thanks Farl,
Should be nice as I live relatively close to the ferry from UK, I would love to go to Santa Pod !
Great looking car! You have done a lot of work to get it turned into a nice ride, great job!
Thanks a lot Blade,
Still a lot to do but yes, improvements took me a long time but are really worth the wait
Gil
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