1964 Buick Skylark "Project Angry Bird" budget build

[64G-lark]

I have been a member of this site since 2004 but have never posted my projects. I enjoy following the build threads and finally decided with some prodding from a few members that I would post up some pictures of my long term project that has been slowly evolving into a Pro-touring style car. After selling my last project (72' GMC Sierra Grande truck) in 2006 I was ready to start something new. This was going to have to be a budget build since my family comes first and I would have two kids in college before long. I wanted to start with a solid A-body car, but most decent Chevelles were out of my budget.
I grew up with a Grandfather that always liked Buicks and I had a 65 Special he helped me rebuild as a teenager. Many years later I had a 72 GS cloned to a 455 stage one car. So a Buick made sense and seemed like an affordable option.

My build plan changed along the way. Starting with the stock engine (300 V-8 ), to plans of a turbo V6 to eventually swapping to a LS3.
Bear with me as I try to build this thread in a chronological order starting back in time. I purchased this car in March of 2007 out of California from a V8Buick member. It was a nicely optioned early build car with back-up lights, AM radio, all the exterior trim, bucket seats, ironing board console, and a original aluminum headed 300 4bbl / automatic. My orginal intention was to purchase a nice stock car and transplant a Grand National drivetrain but this would change. Shortly after the purchase I began to collect the parts and aquired a 87' GN engine and trans. I promised myself I wouldn't tear the car down until I had the majority of the parts for the conversion. While slowly collecting parts my family and I enjoyed the car with the stock drivetrain. We did weekend cruises and the occasional car show.
Here is what I started with in 2007.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/1.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XupjY)
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/2.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuS35)
The powerhouse 300 V8
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/3B.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuM3R)
Interior
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/4.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xu28p)

The GN engine and Trans.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/img003.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3ehG)
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/img004-640x457.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X31mk)

[64G-lark]

The car was suffering from a lot of oil leaks and horrible 4 wheel drum brakes that meant you better think about stopping long before you needed too.
The first things I addressed was The passenger inner fender and heater box. Apparently someone changed the heater core at some point with out removing the inner fender and had bent up both of them. There was also some battery corrosion issues to address.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/6.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xu3NE)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/5.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuhqT)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/7.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuBxZ)

[64G-lark]

Before starting any drive train conversions I needed to get the look I wanted for the car. The car was suffering from sagging coils that also looked as if they had been heated with a torch at one time. The first time I took it off the road in late 2007 I added Hotchkis 1" drop coils to all four corners, KYB gas shocks, some new bushings and lots of cleaning and detailing of the engine compartment. After lots of measuring and hours of looking at wheel designs I selected 17" Intro Vista Wheels and Nitto tires. I thought the wheels accented the side trim on the car with their unique finish on the spokes. This change greatly improved the handling and looks of the car but this was just the beginning.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/35.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuLsZ)

My family and I continued to enjoy the car on the occasional weekend drive and I had come to enjoy how reliable the Lil' 300 V-8 was but the 2 speed automatic was terrible. I decided to convert the car to a four speed so I sold off the GN drivetrain and began collecting all of the original four speed parts for the car. My family and I made a few road trips to collect parts and had some good times along the way.
1964 Buick four speed Skylark parts are very hard to locate. There were only 2764 cars built. If you want to learn more about them you can use this link to learn about all the hard to find parts.
http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/1964-65-sbb-4-speed-information.164721/

Original 1964 four speed shifter made for Buick by Hurst.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0290.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxmjS)

Rare consolette
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSCN0053.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxFp5)

1964 Borg Warner T-10 wide ratio
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSCN0037.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxxv4)

Original hump unique to Buick’s
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSCN0008.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxoz8)

Bell housing cover. Most got tossed.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSCN0001.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxwI3)

[64G-lark]

In the fall of 2009 I took the car out to take pictures to submit to PHR magazine for their annual readers photo contest issue. On the way home the brake booster went out. I managed to limp it home and it went into the garage for the beginning of a long hibernation to improve every mechanical part of the car. The pictures I took that day didn't win but did manage to make it into the magazine. See the Jan. 2010 issue. Ironically this same issue kicked off a magazine project car called project Olds. This was editor and photographer Robert McGaffins 65' Olds Cutlass. I would later follow a similar build on my car.

The brake booster turned out to be a tough fix. Being an early 64' car it was equipped with the Kelsey Hayes booster. After trying multiple rebuilders I could never find the correct parts to rebuild. The drum brakes had always made me nervous driving the car as you had to plan in advance to stop and leave much more distance between yourself and other cars. So I made the decision to upgrade the braking system to the Delco booster and front disc brakes.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/23-640x480.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XutOK)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_0610-640x425-640x425_zps5b9uv7lb.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFVba)


https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_0609-640x425-640x425_zpskilbazvo.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFgCc)

While I was into the brakes I decided to clean and paint the entire underside of the car. In hindsight I should have done a frame off but after all this was a budget build. We all know how one thing can lead to another and before I knew it I had stripped the car to a shell on the frame.
I started by moving the car out into the driveway and pressure washing it. Over the years the engine and transmission had both acquired leaks and it seems most of it coated the bottom of the car. Under that was a coat of undercoating then paint and finally the sheetmetal. Pressure washing in December can get a bit chilly laying on a creeper under the car. Once I cleaned as much as the pressure washer would remove I spent the next few weeks scraping, sanding, using scotchbrite pads and wire wheels to remove everything to the bare metal. I treated any corrosion with a phosphoric acid cleaner. While using the acid I wore gloves, goggles and a respirator while laying on a creeper. This stuff works great but will cause skin burns. I found out the hard way my gloves didnt go high enough and ended up with some pretty good burns around my wrist for Christmas.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/12.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuxNe)

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https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/13.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XunBw)



Once everything was cleaned I applied two coats of POR-15 and one top coat of POR-15 Blackcoat. This is great paint but don't get it on your skin as you will have to wear it off.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0189.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3DXZ)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/28.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XusJ3)

My youngest helper Chase helping on the brakes
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/9.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XuVio)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSCN0025.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XcxvZ)

Birthday surprise from my wonderful wife
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/24.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xudtn)

[64G-lark]

As is the case in most builds I did find a few rust repairs to make. Each rear inner fender had a small area by the rear body mount and I found one small place in the floor. I borrowed a friends mig and patched them up.

One of the more humorous events I had envolved sandblasting. I purchased a cheap portable pot style blaster to do parts outside as needed. I had a few places on the underside of the car I just couldn't get to with conventional tools so I thought sandblasting might just be the trick. I bought a roll of plastic and a few bags of sand and carefully planned the event. I was going to have to do this inside the garage so I planned to do this when my wife was going to be gone for the better part of the day. You have to understand my garage is in the basement and any time I use chemicals or paints my wife notices right away. As she pulled out of the drive I made a bee-line for the garage and set up a make shift booth around the car with the plastic. I proceeded to spend the next few hours blasting away at my trouble spots and anything else I could find that needed blasting. After that I tore down my booth, cleaned and swept up all of my evidence. A short while later my lovely bride arrived back home, so I ran upstairs to greet her. She asked what I had been doing and I quickly replied the usual working on the Buick. Her eyes began to pan the kitchen and she picked up some mail on the counter and when she did you could see a dusty outline of where the mail had laid. She went from room to room and each time she picked up an object the outline remained. My gig was up and I spent that evening and the next day cleaning and vacuuming the whole house. You dont realize how fine that dust becomes. Never sandblast in a closed garage no matter how well you think you have sealed it off. Sandblasting is banned to the great outdoors!

I continued to remove parts and strip, clean, repair, and paint. One by one I picked off items such as the wiper motor, heater controls, core support, bumper brackets, heater boxes, steering column, etc.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/25.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xu7Pk)

I also used a hydraulic punch to reduce weight in various parts of the car. I haves dies in multiple sizes from 1/2” to 3”. I wish I had the dimple dies as well but maybe in the future.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0009-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3oRn)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0193.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3Uoh)

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https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0197.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3kmH)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/photo32-640x478.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxV7k)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0196.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3PcN)

[64G-lark]

Next thing to address was the rear axle. The orginal rear had a open type carrier 2.78 gear which was great for gas mileage but was not what I wanted for more spirtited driving. I debated about rebuilding the orginal rear but stumbled across a 64' GTO rear on this site that was identical and had been upgraded to a Eaton Posi and a Richmond 3.55 ring gear and pinon. The 64' axle housings are unique in that the top cast ears for the upper control arm mounts have smaller diameter bushings. I tore it down inspected it, cleaned, powdercoated the backing plates, rear cover and painted the main housing. I used ARP stainless bolts for the rear cover.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/29.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xufyc)


At this time in the build I was still headed for a resto-mod type build. In May of (2012) my brother and I attended an All GM event in Commerce, Ga. at the Atlanta Dragstrip. My car was still on jackstands waiting for time and money to replace and paint suspension parts so I rode with him in his Camaro. Once there we enjoyed the show, the vendors and drag racing, but we had more fun at the autocross event than anything. This was probably the third autocross event I had attended in my life. This one was different in that there was no import cars and it was all GM stuff. My brothers car is mostly stock but he entered the event and loved it. Everyone at the event was friendly and welcoming. He left with a plaque and his car appeared in a couple magazines shortly after.
The highlight of the event for me was meeting Kyle Tucker and riding with him on the course. I had the pleasure of talking with him before and after the run and I have to say the experience of riding in the DSE 1963 Chevy II was unreal. The car handles unbelievably and the power is nothing short of crazy. The thrill from that day changed my thinking for the car. I enjoy going to car shows but I am not crazy about sitting in a chair in the hot sun for hours behind the car. I enjoy driving it the most.
Project Angry Bird begins!

http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/IMG_0758_zps48a4ce8a.mp4.html
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/th_IMG_0758_zps48a4ce8a-1.jpg (http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae328/Thelittledoos/IMG_0758_zps48a4ce8a.mp4)
Click on the Video above to see a short video of the run with Kyle taken by my 10 year old son.

[65_LS1_T56]

VERY nice Buick Mark. Thanks for sharing, I can see why Tom has been hounding you.
What happened to the Turbo Buick motor? that would be pretty cool too!

[1989GTA]

Nice build. I have just about finished up a 65 Skylark that looks very similair to your build. Mine has a 6.2L L92 motor and a 6L80 transmission. Here is a picture to show how much they look alike. Looking forward to more reports on your car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/PunchListItems004_zps820a1624-1.jpg (http://s680.photobucket.com/user/ParleyBaer/media/PunchListItems004_zps820a1624.jpg.html)

[tommycomfort]

Excellent Mark! I can't wait to follow along!

[Austin97C1500]

Sweet ride. I passed up the opportunity to buy a 64 Skylark quite a few years back but had often thought it was a mistake to not have purchased it. It was a 300 car as well but it was cat turd green so that was the main reason I let it pass. Love the stories as well.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Aaron, Tom, 1989GTA, and Austin97C1500

Aaron, I sold the GN Turbo motor and 200R4 trans. It would have been fun in a straight line but the V6 doesn't play well with a manual trans. and that is what I wanted. The Buick engines are expensive to build and the oiling system is the weak link with the external oil pump.

Nice looking Skylark 1989GTA.

All of your cars are inspiration for me. Cant tell you how many times I have followed Tom and Aarons build threads.

[64G-lark]

The Pro touring bug had taken hold so I started by addressing the sleepy steering gear. I replaced the original 800 unit with a Delphi 600. This will give me the 12.7:1 ratio I like while also losing a little over 6 lbs of weight off the front end. This is a direct bolt in with the exception of changing the rag joint and some adapters for the hoses.
I spent some time talking with members here, at Lateral G and the vendors themselves before I determined what suspension components to purchase. I wanted to use tall spindles for the improved geometry so this narrowed the field down to a handful. I also wanted to gain some articulation for the rear control arms. Ultimately I kept coming back to Detroit Speed so that is what I used for the majority of the components. I was most impressed with their patented design for the rear swivel link control arms. I think these are superior in ride, noise and wear compared with helm style or Johnny joints used in other brands. Here is the run down on my current set-up.

Front
Detroit Speed 1 ½” taller forged spindles with 2”drop
Detroit Speed upper and lower tubular control arms with delrin bushings
Hotchkis 1” drop coil springs
Viking aluminum body double adjustable shocks
Pro Forged tie rods, idler arm, center link and billet adjusters
Ride Tech Muscle bar 1.5” tubular sway bar.
Rear
Detroit Speed swivel link upper and lower rear control arms
Detroit Speed chassis brace kit.
Hotchkis 1” drop coil springs
Viking aluminum body double adjustable shocks
Detroit Speed 1 1/8” tubular sway bar

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0054.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X30FT)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0010.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3E45)

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https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0002.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3uHU)

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https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0006-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3cFK)

11” front disc brakes

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/photo19-640x478-640x478.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxhwN)

[64G-lark]

Attended the Chevy Nationals again in Commerce Ga. on 6/1/2013 to watch the autocross and keep the motivation going. Took a couple laps with Brian Finch this year in his Camaro. He drives harder than anyone I have ever rode with on an autocross track. The braking and acceleration is over the top. Of course having 14" rotors on all four corners and 750 HP on tap helps. I dont think I will ever be able to have a car that performs at the level of him or Kyle but I would be happy to be on the road again and make a few autocross events.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/th_IMG_1117_zpse24a5951-1.jpg (http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae328/Thelittledoos/IMG_1117_zpse24a5951.mp4)
Click on video above to watch a short video of the ride with Brian a little shaky taken by Chase my 10 year old.

[RMMiller]

Beautiful car! There is a 65 sitting about 1/2 mile away that I have been eye balling for the past few years.

[epeterson]

Subscribed! Love the stories and the build. I owned a 71' Skylark about 6 months ago that would always put a smile on my face :)

[Roger Poirier]

Great reading. Continue the excellent work. This project is something special! :cool:

[64G-lark]

Thanks epeterson, RMMiller, and Roger. Appreciate the comments.

Not much happened for a few months because I was struggling to determine the direction to go with the engine and transmission. I had spent a lot of time collecting original Buick 4 speed parts and now had everything I needed to put the car back together. While I had dreams of LS motors I went ahead and installed the original engine back in the car along with a T-10 4 speed transmission for the time being. I also continued to work on lots of odds and ends. Replaced all the brake lines and fuel lines cleaned and painted the underside of the hood, etc.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/IMG_1240.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xwk0c)

Centerforce clutch upgrade

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/IMG_1243.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XwsZn)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/IMG_1245.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xw4eE)

My Oldest Son Cade helping with prepping the hood for paint.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/26/DSC_0201.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X3IUe)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0284-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrEEn)

[tommycomfort]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/DSC_0201640x425_zps3bbeda59-1.jpg[/img] (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0201640x425_zps3bbeda59.jpg.html)

Man, I know that is a lot of work by itself!

[64G-lark]

On 10/25-26/2013 Attended the DSE open house and the Goodguys event in Charlotte. It was at this event that Chase and I got to meet Tom and Sam Farrington in person and finally see his beautiful 66' Chevelle. Tom and Sam are great people and we had a fun time. Both of them can drive the wheels off of that car. Tom was kind enough to answer lots of questions and take me for a run.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/IMG_1012.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEGy3)

Toms Farrington's 1966 Chevelle at Charlotte Goodguys event 10/26/2013

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/IMG_1017.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEZ24)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/03/th_IMG_1285_zps7b87930e-1.jpg (http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae328/Thelittledoos/IMG_1285_zps7b87930e.mp4)
In car video of the run with Tom.

[64G-lark]

Your not kidding Tom. I think I spent about a full week in the evenings sanding and trying to get in all the nooks and corners. Then no matter how much you blow it off and go over it with tack cloths every time you move it or go to spray primer or paint, dust or dirt comes out of some hidden place!

[64G-lark]

After Spending time with Tom and Sam at Charlotte I caught the LS bug. I began researching the engines and looking at classifieds on Craigslist, Ebay, and LS1 tech. I thought I might pull it off if I used a truck engine or a LS1. I eventually found what I thought was a pretty good deal so I talked with Tom to get his opinion. During the conversation Tom mentioned he had a L92 that he was thinking about selling. It didn't take me long to determine this was what I really wanted and after a few more conversations with Tom we closed a deal. This would give me a aluminum block engine with the better flowing LS3 type heads.
Now the hunt was on to find a T-56 transmission. After about another week Tom texted me one day to tell me Sam had one that he was going to sell so he could upgrade to a magnum version. So now the Farrington family had come through with the first two big items I needed.
After several weeks of planning my family and I set out for a road trip weekend headed to Indiana. We left out on a Friday afternoon headed north from our home in the mountains of western North Carolina. We decided to break it up a little and make it fun for Chase by spending the night in Louisville Ky. Friday night and getting up the next morning to tour the Louisville Slugger Museum. By mid day we were back on the road and made it to Mooresville, In. by about 2:00pm. We had a fun visit with the Farrington family and toured the estate, the new mega garage and collection of cars. My wife Robin got to meet Deb and talk while Tom, Sam, Chase and myself loaded the new engine and trans. You cant find a more down to earth family that is always willing to help others. Thanks guys. Saturday night we drove back as far as Harland Ky and made it home by Sunday afternoon. My only regret was not taking some pictures with the Farringtons. Heres a few pic's of what we brought back home.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0291-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrCHe)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0283-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrxO8)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0286-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrnHE)

[1989GTA]

Nice looking motor you have. A few Skylark conversions on LSTECH for you to gather information. It saved me from some posible pitfalls.

L92/6L80 in my 65 Skylark. This is an earlier picture. I have tidied it up some since then. The first time on the dyno we got 471rwhp. However come to find out that was third gear when it should have been 4th gear. Looking for 480+rwhp next time out on the dyno. I also expect to get 25+mpg.

[64G-lark]

Nice ! 1989GTA.

Next a few purchases to start the swap.
The new style Holley oil pan 302-2 and Improved Racing trap door style baffle that I hope will provide clearance for my inner tie rods and accommodate the front crossmember.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0289-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrAEi)

A 2012 Camaro LS3 intake, TB, fuel rails and injectors courtesy of LS1tech member.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0288.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrdA7)

I really wanted to run a Ricks fuel tank but its just not in the budget. I settled on a Tanks Inc. fuel injection tank with the built in fuel tray and a Walboro in tank pump.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/08/DSC_0285-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrFs3)

[1989GTA]

You are doing what I have done. I just wish Tanks Inc had that tank available when I did my swap. I used their tank but had to do it the old fashion way for the fuel pump. Same with the Holly oil pan. I have the -1 version and with the -2 that you have you should have no problems. I did have to limit my stops a little with the -1 version but no big deal as I can still make a nice u-turn.

[gearheads78]

Very cool build. I like a ton of different cars but 64-67 A-bodies are my favorite. Up until the LS swap your build was near identical to the 66 Cutlass I built a few years ago. Can't wait to see more.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Gearheads78.

The Buick motor and the 4 speed are now back out of the car for the last time along with the gas tank.
Started cleaning up the transmission. Looking for some opinions on color choice for the engine. Should I keep it black or give it a little nostalgic look by painting the block the 60's buick green color like the previous engine? Thoughts?

[1989GTA]

The Buick green would be a nice tribute to the original. I tried to keep as many original parts as posible and when making changes I tried to keep the theme of the car intact. However that is just me.

[Zoomin]

Love what you've done so far!

I'm working on a 66 Skylark myself, and mine also had the 300 in it. Reliable as a boat anchor but just lacked suds, so I'm putting an LS1 in it. Like you, I have been wondering how to give it a nod to Buick. I thought about the green route, but there are only a few people that would have a clue what that was about. Still ruminating on it.

[gearheads78]

The Buick motor and the 4 speed are now back out of the car for the last time along with the gas tank.
Started cleaning up the transmission. Looking for some opinions on color choice for the engine. Should I keep it black or give it a little nostalgic look by painting the block the 60's buick green color like the previous engine? Thoughts?

I would do block and heads Buick green. It will look great IMO

[64G-lark]

Thanks Zoomin.

Still haven't decided on what color to paint the engine. The other option would be the Buick red. In the mean time I designed some motor mount adapters, Then my oldest son who is learning machining made them on a CNC mill at school. They turned out pretty nice. I had him make them out of 1/2" thick 6061 to start with and I can mill the backside to thin them out if needed. I purchased some stainless bolts from the bolt depot.com to finish it up.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/IMG_1355-640x480.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XofjK)


Here is the completed mount on the engine. The multiple holes allow a lot of adjustment and the recessed areas clears the back side of the Energy suspension urethane motor mounts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0306-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xom7e)

[64G-lark]

I removed the truck style oil pan, oil pump pick-up and windage tray and was pleased to see the inside of the engine as clean as a pin. Tom had already upgraded the rod bolts with ARP fasteners.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0292-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMlrw)

The Holley oil pan is cast and the casting was very coarse on the inside, so before installing it I spent a little time knocking the roughness down. This turned into about a two hour project. Hopefully this will aid drain back a little. The picture doesn't do it justice, its much smoother than it appears. I also spent some time smoothing, opening up and radiusing the oil passages.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0295.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xozuc)

The truck style windage tray would not clear the front of the pan. This is the new Holley pan 302-2 that is the tightest pan in the front section to hopefully clear the inner tierods. After some careful measuring I cut out the front section to provide the needed clearance. Both the pan and the windage tray got a through bath before going back on the engine.
The Holley oil pump pickup tube has provisions for two bolts on the oil pump end so I added the second bolt with a little Loctite on both.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0301.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xorwp)

The oil pan then got the Improved Racing trap door style baffle Holley part number 302-11 bolted in.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0299-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoHgT)

My youngest helper posing with the finished install.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0304.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoD5P)

[64G-lark]

Time to start on the top side and ditch the truck style intake and fuel rails.


https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0305.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoFpH)

Test fitting the 2012 Camaro LS3 intake, fuel rails, and DBW throttle body.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0308.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XotiG)

Its been a balancing act between working on the car, engine and spending time selling off the original parts to keep funding the next purchase for the build. I have been fortunate and have had good luck selling off the Buick parts.

[1989GTA]

Very nice.

[64G-lark]

Thanks 1989GTA. Those are some nice numbers you got. What cam, ECM and harness did you use? Did you retain VVT?

[65_LS1_T56]

Nice progress Mark. Looks like you are really doing your homework! And it was nice to talk to you last week.

Oh, love the billet mounts :)

[tommycomfort]

Looking great Mark! You guys are really going to town on this thing.

[1989GTA]

Thanks 1989GTA. Those are some nice numbers you got. What cam, ECM and harness did you use? Did you retain VVT?

My first pass on a Superflow chasis dyno was 471rwhp but that was done in third gear instead of forth. By the way that was with California 91 octane gasoline. The camshaft is a Texas Speed VVT3 so yes I retained the VVT. A lot more people are doing that now because there is more power available under the curve.

I used the factory 2007 Escalade harness. However I upgraded the software to the 2011 Corvette version including the 6L80 transmission and E38 ECM. On May 6th I am going back on the chasis dyno for the final tune. We shall see what the final power numbers will be.

I like how your build is going.

[64G-lark]

A few more parts arrived over the last few days. Got an F-body bell housing for the trans. Decided to go with the BRP mid length headers. I thought it might offer the best ground clearance and I might not have to fight the issues of hitting the floor board or hanging to low while trying to get the engine where I want it. I know I may give up a few HP but I like the simplicity. Also needed some bolts for the bell housing, water pump, balancer, etc. The engine already had ARP Head bolts so I went with ARP on the balance.



https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0321-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrBEN)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0320.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrbDh)

Test fitting bell housing and factory crossmember that was lightened.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0318-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoixY)

[64G-lark]

Performed the dreaded tunnel-ectomy yesterday. This is the part I have worried about the most. I hated cutting up an original floor pan with no rust issues.

Before
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0313.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoejT)

Prepping

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0315-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoWi5)


After

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0317.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XovNi)

I purchased a cheap air saw from Northern Tool with a gift certificate from Christmas. I couldn't believe how well it worked. It really made cutting the tunnel easy with no sparks and flying debris to deal with like I would have had with a die grinder and cut-off wheel.

[64G-lark]

Chevelle mounts courtesy of the Farringtons bolted in for test fit. They will get cleaned up and painted for the final fit.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0311.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XoL2S)

Time for the first mock up of the engine and trans.

This was a challenge in the confines of the garage. I will have a taller ceiling in the next one! I had to change up the rigging several times. Its very tight getting enough angle to get the transmission started into the tunnel, and getting everything back far enough to drop the oil pan behind the front cross member. Unfortunately this wont be the last of these maneuvers. My Wife (Robin) came down to the garage to celebrate the success of seeing it in the car.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0324.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgGiE)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0325-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XrVyw)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0387-640x425-2.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xg52a)

[64G-lark]

Well as much as I hate to admit it my motor mount plan is not working out. The mounts we made work great mounting to the engine and the Chevy motor mounts bolt up fine. My problem is when I test fit the headers the drivers side tube hits the crossmember. I cant get the motor mounts bolted in the Chevelle frame stands with this header. I don't like how the Chevelle stands sit so far forward on the crossmember. The Buick style stands are a better design centered over the crossmember, but create two other issues. First the width is wrong for the Chevy motor mounts and when bolted in the spread between mounts is wrong. I could alter the width but then the spread is still an issue. I have been researching different mount options. The best option would be to fab some from scratch. I could probably do this given enough time, but the time and cost of doing this outweigh going back to BRP for their mounts that are guaranteed to fit, have the right driveline angles and clear the headers. As they say the best laid plans don't always come together.

As a side note the Holley oil pan appears to fit great. Doesn't look like it will hang below the crossmember and it looks like the tie rods will clear and no cutting on the front crossmember. Once we get it all bolted down I will report back on the clearances.

[tommycomfort]

Mark, you're starting to make me feel guilty about the amount of project work I get done in a week.

[maldo]

all i have to say is nicceeeeee

[64G-lark]

Thanks Maldo.

Well its been a while since I updated the thread. I have been working at it diligently, but I am not to good at remembering to take pictures or taking the time to update the thread. The trans. tunnel mods were not fun and took me way longer than I like to admit.
My first attempt was to reuse the stock tunnel by spacing it up and filling in the gap with some 18 Ga. sheet metal.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0376-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgBx7)

[64G-lark]

I wanted to be able to easily remove the transmission from the car and being able to remove bell housing bolts and solenoids was not going to be easy without making lots of modifications. My other issue was the tunnel was kicked out more on the drivers side due to the previous 4 speed hump.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0380-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgHdH)

So I went back to the drawing board. What I came up with was a first gen Camaro replacement hump. I used this as a starting point because it had a nice flat top to mount shifter boots and rings, was already tall enough and provided good access. I also liked a small kick-out that was already part of the hump and I lined it up to provide access and clearance for the reverse solenoid.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0382-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xgpth)

I used welding blankets to protect the dash and foil to protect some wires and stuff.

[64G-lark]

Forward of this I used 18ga. At this point everything was just tacked in place until everything was fitted. Before welding it all in place additional trimming was needed.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0383-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgDJc)

I had a lot of trouble getting a good weld. This was a constant problem throughout the process. I eventually had a couple of welding friends step in to give me a hand. The welding didn't get any easier.

[64G-lark]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0384-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xg6Dn)

[64G-lark]

After talking with Aaron Oberle and Tom Farrington I decided to extend the tunnel mods further back. They explained that the first floor support cross member can be very close to the driveshaft and in some cases rub at lowered ride heights. At this point I cut out all but the top flange.


https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0471-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgaHP)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0413-640x425-2.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgLs7)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0472-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xgi4N)

I used part of the old tunnel to get the raised ribs for strength. The previous top of the support became the new bottom. Fabbed some more 18ga for the rear portion then boxed the cross member to it. I also added some 3/16 x 3/4" around the shifter hole to have something more substantial to mount the shifter boot ring too.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0475-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpSAa)

Its hard to see but I had to make a recessed area in the most forward portion of the tunnel to clear the bottom vent on the factory heater box.

[64G-lark]

While I was at it I turned to the firewall and welded up a lot of holes I no longer needed.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0477-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpuVc)

[64G-lark]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0476-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpNGk)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0478-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpbRt)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0547-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xpxno)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/IMG_4186.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xx01T)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0249-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp103)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0560-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp0mp)

Stripped everything back out of the car and getting everything smoothed out and ready for paint. I couldn't find a close up picture but I took a note from Aarons build and notched the drivers side of the front cross member for additional header tube clearance. The tube cleared but was very tight. This will also provide additional clearance if I decide to lower the engine some more. You can see it if you look close in the above picture.

[64G-lark]

The first time I built the car I coated the floors with a product called Quite Car. Before applying any other coating I gave the floors two coats of POR-15 and then applied a final coat of the Quiet Car followed by Boom Mat.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0554-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpolZ)

[64G-lark]

Now that everything fits its time to build all of the component's, clean and paint. I started with the transmissions that was from a 2006 GTO which meant I had to make a few changes. I used an F-body bell housing, changed the offset lever in the transmission to the f-body style and replaced the plastic bushing with a brass one. This allowed me to convert to a F-body shifter. I chose a Pro 5.0 shifter. I used this shifter for mock-up as well. I cleaned up the transmission and gave it a coat of paint.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0548-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpB4n)

My Birthday was in September and my lovely wife was very sneaky. She worked with Tom Farrington without me knowing and he was able to work With Mark Bowler at Bowler Transmission to get me a LS7 clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, bolts and a F-body type hydraulic throw out bearing with a few Bowler mods. A big thanks go out to Tom, Mark and my wife!

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/IMG_4184.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxD9Z)

[64G-lark]

Next up was the engine. I took it down to essentially a long block for a few upgrades and paint. I am retaining the VVT feature on the engine and I am using a Mast Motorsports cam and springs. The cam is the 914-103 SS grind with .588 lift and 230 duration on the intake and .607 lift and 244 duration on the exhaust side with a lobe separation angle of 111 degrees. The spring are the beehive style. This required me to use a Comp Cams Phase limiter kit 5460. I upgraded the pushrods to Trickflow chrome moly in the 5/16 diameter. The roller rockers got a Summit Racing bearing and trunion upgrade kit. I did port the oil pump and the oil passages in the oil pan.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0725-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKb98)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0724-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKN8t)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0726-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKhPn)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0550-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpgU5)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0551-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp2XS)

[64G-lark]

I decided to go with the Buick green color. Used the POR15 engine paint.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0557-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp5UR)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0558-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpE4i)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0558-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpE4i)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0559-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpQoH)

[64G-lark]

Going in for the final time I hope.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0561-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpDX7)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0562-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xpjch)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0248-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpW6c)

[64G-lark]

I had to wait until we had the engine in the car to install the balancer due to the high torque required. Used the ARP bolt to retain it. Forgot to mention it but I used the SAS Corvette alignment tools along with feeler gauges and a straight edge to align the oil pump and the front cover. This shot shows the oil pan clearance to the front cross member.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0567-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpALm)

Transmission with BRP crossmember.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0570-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpTla)

[65_LS1_T56]

Looks awesome Mark! You are doing it right, that's for sure. Gonna be a very nice setup when you're done!

[Motown 454]

Great project Mark. Should get up and boogie with the LS and 6 spd.

[64G-lark]

Thanks for the complements Aaron and Wayne.

I used the Holley accessory drive for the alternator and power steering. One day I will add air conditioning and this leaves me with two options. I can add the Holley A/C kit or I can use the truck style factory A/C. I like the factory mount the best as its low and out of the way. Gives a cleaner look. I am using the truck style damper so it has two serpentine grooves. I have bolted the bracket and the compressor up just to check and they fit nicely. The one issue I have run into is I am going to have to swap water pumps to the Camaro style. The pump pictured is a truck pump and will not clear the DBW throttle body .

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0564-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp6lD)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0565-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpkmU)

This shows how the truck style A/C will mount and clear everything for future use.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0266-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2V7h)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0265-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2HgD)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0261-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X23ae)

[64G-lark]

I cleaned up all the suspension parts and mounted everything back up. I upgraded the front brakes to the Baer GT disc brakes with billet hubs and ARP 1/2" wheel studs thanks to the Farringtons.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0579-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X225N)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0573-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpCfK)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0594-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2tvT)

[tommycomfort]

Awesome Mark! The trans tunnel looks better than any I have seen.

[64G-lark]

I sold all of my original four speed parts as a package to another Buick fan. When I did he wanted the four speed steering column. In one way this helped me out, as the original column shaft is one piece from the steering wheel to the steering gear. It is a real pain to take in and out. Since I had to replace it I went with a Ididit tilt column. To connect the column to the steering gear I used Borgenson components. I bought the satin finish stainless steel joints, a damper joint and the telescoping shaft. The shaft only comes in cut to fit mild steel so after cutting and dimpling I painted it gloss black. I hit the joints with a buffing wheel on a die grinder and some emory compound and had polished joints in about thirty minutes.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_0577640x425_zpsfe6140c6.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFTaU)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0575-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpPct)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0581-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2ozw)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0584-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2xvK)

The shaft worked out really nice and has plenty of clearance. Its hard to tell in the pictures.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0599-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2TNp)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0583-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2wkk)

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom. I learned a lot on that project. My welding skills improved over the course of it and If I ever have to do one again I learned a lot I would do different.

[64G-lark]

I have been very pleased with all of the clearances with this combo. Oil pan is tucked up behind the cross member, Headers clear everywhere, Tie rods clear the oil pan. These are all of the pitfalls of the A-body LS swap. The only other thing I would change is the back side of the cross member. If I had to do it over again I would have notched it about an inch to make pulling the engine in and out easier. It clears fine once it is in but getting it in is hectic. This picture shows the oil pan sump in relation to the cross member.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0251-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XplrS)

Drivers side header tube notch as viewed from the rear.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0249-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xp103)


Tie rod to oil pan clearance at full lock.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0394-640x425-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XgTDi)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0248-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpW6c)

[64G-lark]

I picked these up used off LS1 Tech a while back for a good deal. They had multiple layers of paint and powder coat. This is after some sandblasting. I got the coil mounts as well.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0256-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2G6d)

I had to notch my heater box and weld the corner that hit the revised transmission tunnel.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0595-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2k1d)

I had been wanting to change the bolts that retain the inner fender to the outer to give a little more clearance. The original bolts are the large hex heads in a 5/16 x 12 TPI. Strange size more like a sheet metal screw. The nuts are retained in the inner fender with a special nut called a pierce nut that is pressed in to the inner fender. Small things like this eat up lots of time. My solution was to retap the nuts to 5/16 x 18 TPI. This didn't leave much thread. Probably enough thread but I didn't want chance it and strip them out. My solution was to buy 5/16 jam nuts and tack them on the back side. This allowed me to use a stainless steel button head bolts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0268-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2pum)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0254-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XpvaE)

[Motown 454]

It looks right at home in there.

[1989GTA]

Very nice installation. Well done.

[64G-lark]

Thanks 1989GTA and Motown 454. Progress always seems slower than what you think it will be.

[therobski]

Very nice work Mark, these early A-body's are my all time favorite (64-65). If I do another I may go the the LS engine selection too.

[Arctic_Ragtop]

Very nicely done. I've got a simialr project on the go, however I am still at the original photo stage, with just a set of wheels. Mine is a '65 Beaumont Convertible (canadian built cross between a chevelle / gto), and I am going in the same direction as you. I got scared of the 4-wheel drums and just completed the front disc brake conversion, then decided I should do the suspension over the winter as well. You've done an awesome job on this car so far and I am subscribed for future updates.

[64G-lark]

Thanks for the compliments therobski and Arctic Ragtop. I don't know how we used to drive with drum brakes.

[analyte]

Nice build. Subscribed!!

[Das Boot]

Nice!

Not sure how I missed this thread until now? Will be following along.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Kerry. Yours is looking good. Thanks Dasboot.

I had to make some changes for the clutch pedal so it will work with the hydraulic master cylinder. I ended up removing the pedal mounts/ column support.
I mocked up everything outside of the car and fabricated a bracket that I then welded to the pedal mount to create a mount for the stop to limit the stroke of the cylinder. I found a hood bumper to use on the stop off of a mid nineties Dodge truck. On the opposite side I used a hardware store rubber bumper used on door hinge stops. I relieved the bracket for clearance on the cylinder rod and I moved the mounting point up slightly on the pedal so that the rod is centered the best when the pedal is compressed. Here are a few pictures from some different views.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0270-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xcf7P)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0269-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XctvD)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0272-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xck1m)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0273-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XcYph)

[1989GTA]

Amazing work.

[64G-lark]

Completed a number of things over the Christmas break. In preparation for rear disc brakes I had to remove the rear axles and turn down the outer flange to fit the rotors. While I had them out I knocked out the original 7/16" wheel studs and drilled and tapped the holes for 1/2" by 20 tpi ARP bolts. This will match my front hubs.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0646-640x4254919fde45eb71daa.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XcixS)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0651.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxfj7)

I finished up painting the Mast Motorsports valve covers I had been working on.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0636-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xc118)

Swapped out the L92 style water pump for a 2012 Camaro LS3 water pump to resolve my throttle body clearance issue. Polished up and installed the throttle body.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0626-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xcs5U)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0625-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xcjke)

Fabricated a mount for the drive by wire pedal.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0628-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xcd3N)

[tommycomfort]

Great progress Mark!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom.

I broke out the radiator a Griffen dual pass with two Spal fans. I plan to use the transmission cooler for the power steering. I picked up a new Long oil cooler off Ebay from a Nascar team. I had to fabricate mounting brackets for both. I started with a universal mounting kit and combined that with some of the original mounting. I was able to use all of the original mounting holes although I did have to enlarge the bottom two from 1/4" to 3/8". I still have some final clean up and painting to do on them.
I also had to do some grinding on the lower inside corners of the core support. Fabricating all of these small items takes up a lot of time but I do find it enjoyable.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0637.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxetG)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0662.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxUPh)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0644.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxL2w)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0639-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XcPIK)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0641-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XcLpt)

[Motown 454]

Its looking really good. Nice job on the valve covers.

[65_LS1_T56]

Awesome progress Mark!

[WallaceMFG]

Car looks great! I like the detail you put into that painting you do, the little details make everything look awesome!

[srh3trinity]

Cool car. Love the 'larks

[64G-lark]

Thanks Aaron.

When I fabbed the radiator mounts I used some old silicone blue snapper exhaust grommets I had laying around to size everything. I got some new ones from Jegs for the final mounting.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0652.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxjIY)

Picture of the radiator, oil cooler, and power steering cooler mocked up before paint.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0650.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxJBK)

Heres the completed lower mounts

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0661.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxWiU)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0659.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxs9D)

I wanted a compact tank for coolant overflow and something with simple mounting. After lots of searching I came up with this. I purchased a Meziere coolant recovery tank and mounted it. The next image shows the upper radiator mount as well.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0653.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxk8H)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0655.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xx6No)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0663.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xxqxm)

[64G-lark]

I found some small rubber grommets at Lowes to use on the oil cooler. The two upper mounts are also part of the upper radiator mounts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0664.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XxPdN)

I had some stainless steel left over from an old boat project that I used to make some mounting brackets for a power steering cooler. The inlet and outlet are both on the bottom. The cooler itself is a transmission cooler from Jegs. I plan to run the lines to the internal transmission cooler in the radiator and then to this external cooler before returning to the pump.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/09/DSC_0647.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xx18k)

[tommycomfort]

Looking great Mark!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom. It never seems to move along as fast as I want.

[64G-lark]

First time out of the garage in a few years. Had a break in the weather, sunny but cold. I had been wanting to see how it was looking.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0714-640x425691aa3fe18c2532f.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMnfS)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0712-640x425ee14e3962e9db13d.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMDX4)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0709-640x4259638c2258cfb2baa.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XM5C3)

[1989GTA]

Coming along real good. Looks like you still need to do the exhaust. You can't be to far away from firing it up and getting it ready to drive.

[gabrielpgn]

This is is looking really nice and clean!!! Keep it up!

[Arctic_Ragtop]

Looks great, the stance is perfect. Nicely done

[64G-lark]

Thanks for all the complements 1989GTA, gabrielpgn, WallaceMFG srh3trinity and Artic Ragtop. Great inspiration to keep going.

Yes I still have the exhaust, wiring, brake lines and lots of plumbing to go.

A big thanks to Dave Nutting for the nice article on BangShift.com it was a big surprise to see this. A friend sent me a link out of the blue yesterday.

http://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/pro-touring-tuesdays-1964-buick-skylark-family-labor-love/

[tommycomfort]

Great write up Mark! Congratulations!

[rchaskin]

Looking good!!

I dig the motor color!

[gearheads78]

looks killer man!

[Zoomin]

Sharp looking car, Mark! There sure are a lot of little gotchas doing these larks. I assumed going in that most things that worked for Chevelles would work on these, like your motor mounts. It's all gonna be worth it to have that unique look.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom, Gearheads78, Rchaskin and Zoomin.

Hey Randy,
Kevin was the one who sent me the email to let me know my car was on Bangshift!

Worked on the master cylinder, clutch master and all the pedals today. I tried a couple of different master cylinders before settling on a Wilwood 15/16 bore. I tried a nine inch dual diaphragm booster with the DSE low angle mount. I just was not happy with how much space it took up and it was getting in the way of so many other things. Its getting real tight with valve covers, coil packs, brake lines, master cylinder, proportioning valve, clutch master and reservoir. Everything is competing for the same space. In the end I elected to go with manual brakes. I am still trying to find a good way to mount the proportioning valve. I tried the mount Wilwood supplies but the position does not give me access to the bottom ports due to proximity to the inner fender. If anyone has a good solution I am all ears.
I made a bracket to mount the clutch reservoir since there was not a good flat spot to mount. Keep in mind I work with a hand grinder and hand drill. I don't have all the fancy tools some of you have. :] Its mounting off the lower two studs below the master cylinder.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0710-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2lPN)

completed mount

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0717-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2R9m)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0708-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2PI7)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0709-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2ejD)

[64G-lark]

When I installed the engine for the final time I got into the lower heater core tube. I didn't trust it so I pulled it out, and pressure tested it. As luck would have it it leaked. I tried to fix it without any luck. I don't think anyone makes a good replacement anymore. They are smaller made of aluminum and come from China :[ . To be safe I tested it before installing and it didn't leak. I did have to make a few spacers since it was not as thick as the original. The one positive is it was much lighter.
This leads me to the latest problem. The lower tube is close to the valve cover and although I can get a hose on it, I don't like the fact its on the verge of kinking. My first thought is to cut the tube a little shorter and find a 5/8" compression fitting in a 45 degree angle with female 1/2" pipe thread on the opposite end to accept a 5/8" hose barb. I searched locally and have come up with nothing. The fun of living in a small town. Seems like every bolt or fitting I need, I have to order on line and wait 3-4 days. Ugh! Anyone else had a similar issue and found a good solution?

Home made pressure tester

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0716-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKzja)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0714-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2J3P)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0715-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2vNU)

[analyte]

Thanks for all the complements 1989GTA, gabrielpgn, WallaceMFG srh3trinity and Artic Ragtop. Great inspiration to keep going.

Yes I still have the exhaust, wiring, brake lines and lots of plumbing to go.

A big thanks to Dave Nutting for the nice article on BangShift.com it was a big surprise to see this. A friend sent me a link out of the blue yesterday.

http://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/pro-touring-tuesdays-1964-buick-skylark-family-labor-love/

Awesome article Mark!!

[Zoomin]

This might be a sign it's time to install Vintage Air....

[1989GTA]

I don't know if it will help but I has able to find a heater hose with a 90 degree on it. It was just enough to clear the passenger side cylinder head on my car. Looks like it might work on your car. I did both heater fittings with a 90 so it would look clean.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Kerry. Your car is really coming along. Looks like there is going to be a lot of new A-body cars soon.

Zoomin. Vintage Air would be nice, just not in the budget.

1989GTA tell me more about these hoses. Any pictures?

[Reckn8]

Mark, we have the Old Style hang down unit on our 65 and LOVE it!! Vintage Air Mark IV !!

[1989GTA]

Here is a picture from early on. I think I shortened them some more after this picture was taken. I believe I got them from NAPA.

[therobski]

That's some really great craftsmanship! When studying this build, once I get my F-85 on the road I may just take all apart again!

[rixtrix1]

Nice build. Thanks for sharing all the fruits of your hard work. I've got a buddy who is a Buick lover to the max, having his share of '64's, a '65 wagon, '69 GS and a fully optioned '87 GN. I've had my hand in few of his builds, mostly involving 455's. My first car was a '63 Skylark with a 200HP-215 and a BW T10. Wish I still had it. Your build brings back some fond memories of days gone past (graduated HS in 1970)!

[64G-lark]

Thanks therobski and rixtrix1.

Big thanks to 1989GTA ! I appreciate the insight. I stopped tonight on the way home and found the same style hoses with the molded 90 degree ends. I was looking into all these complicated fittings and you sure made it simple. Looks like they should work.

[64G-lark]

Didn't know it until today. Turns out there was a previous article on BangShift. Thanks Brain Lohnes!

http://bangshift.com/bangshiftapex/going-fast-class-watch-evolution-pro-touring-buick-lowered-stocker-hardcore-cornering-machine/

[64G-lark]

Started mocking up the exhaust this past weekend. I was pleasantly surprised the fit seems pretty good right out of the box. I'm a going to have to work on the the connection at the header. Contemplating a few ideas and looking for some opinions. Considering necking it down to 2.5" right after the headers for around 4-6 inches then back to 3.0" the rest of the way. I have heard some theory that this keeps the velocity up prevents reversion and picks up some low end. Any thoughts? I would like to add V band flanges after the mufflers and again after the axle to make removal easier. Dang those V-band clamps and flanges are expensive. Was also wondering about using the braided flex couplers to allow for some expansion and movement. Any recommendations?

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0718-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X2ixw)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_0720-640x425_zpsc2qyluuv.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFblw)

[64G-lark]

Mounted a Mike Norris/DSE oil catch can / breather on the front of the right cylinder head.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0654-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVRZH)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_0721-640x425_zpsas7rqtuy.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFBLK)

Still looking for ideas on the brake proportioning valve. The bracket is made to mount it on the left side of the master cylinder. This places it very close to the inner fender and also makes for a lot of tight bends to get the lines to it. I stink at bending these stainless brake lines! The third issue is the studs that the master cylinder mounts on are sticking out the perfect length for the master cylinder and the nuts, add the bracket and then I only have room for about half the nut. Has anyone mounted it on the frame and had the knob extend up through the floor beside the drivers seat?

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0722-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKSBc)

[analyte]

Mounted a Mike Norris/DSE oil catch can / breather on the front of the right cylinder head.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/DSC_072120640x425_zpsas7rqtuy-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0721%20640x425_zpsas7rqtuy.jpg.html)

Still looking for ideas on the brake proportioning valve. The bracket is made to mount it on the left side of the master cylinder. This places it very close to the inner fender and also makes for a lot of tight bends to get the lines to it. I stink at bending these stainless brake lines! The third issue is the studs that the master cylinder mounts on are sticking out the perfect length for the master cylinder and the nuts, add the bracket and then I only have room for about half the nut. Has anyone mounted it on the frame and had the knob extend up through the floor beside the drivers seat?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/DSC_072320640x425_zps4ovcqlqn-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0723%20640x425_zps4ovcqlqn.jpg.html)

Nice can!! This may not work for you, but I am having the same issue with the studs being to short for all the brackets off the master cylinder mount. I plan to grind off the back of the top studs and pop them out. I'll then replace them with longer studs to give me the length needed. No one will probably notice outside a few folks.

Kerry

[64G-lark]

Well its been a little while since I have updated. I found a location to mount the proportioning valve. I modified the original Wilwood mount and mounted it to the frame rail below the master cylinder area. Of course while mocking it up I had to take the drivers side header off and the left inner wheel well to give me plenty of room. I also ordered up some better tools for bending brake lines as well as some S.U.R. & R. (NiCopper) tubing. Between the two it made a huge difference. Much easier to work with. I retained the longer runs of SS brake lines I already had and made the rest. Glad to have all the brake lines finally completed.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0792-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKHd5)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0794-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKg2T)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0816-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XM10m)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0814-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMCf7)

[64G-lark]

Next up I started tackling the wiring. I am using a Mast Motorsports harness and ECM. Finding a place to mount the ECM and the fuse block was challenging. I preferred to mount it inside the car but this is a fairly large harness to make a hole for it to pass through. After looking at lots of grommets and other ideas I came up with a homemade way of making it work without making big holes in the firewall. I also wanted to retain my factory heater box until I can afford something like vintage air.
Like most things I install, I have to take them back off at least three times it seems. So the interior side heater box and heater core came back out. I made a hole in the top of the transmission tunnel very close to the firewall. To clear the heater box the wires have to come in from the engine side and make a 90 degree bend to go up and over the heater box. My solution came from the plumbing section.
I found a 1 1/2" PVC sink drain that had the right bend and would protect the harness. I carefully slit the pipe length wise and spread it around the harness. I temporally mounted it using some hose clamps to hold it in place. I took a piece of 18 ga. sheet metal and drilled the proper size hole with a hole type saw. Once the hole was in place I split one side so I could get it around the pipe and close up the hole I ran everything through. I used a heat gun on the PVC to close it back up and form the final fit. A little silicone to use as a gasket around the sheet metal and it was good to go. Sorry I didn't get any pictures of this part. Its in very tight places and once its all installed you cant see anything.

I did have to go back and make one small additional hole that I used a conventional grommet. The Mast harness has wires for the electric fuel pump and sending unit that come off the harness on the engine side. Rather than figuring a way to run them around the transmission or over the headers and to a frame rail I ran them back inside and will run them under the carpet back to the trunk area and pass through a grommet again right in front of the fuel tank.

[64G-lark]

For the ECM and fuse block I had to find a place inside that was accessible, and not highly visible. The glove box was my first thought but these old glove boxes are small and wont hold both. The other issue is they are cardboard and wont support much weight. My solution was to build a light weight frame from sheet metal. My criteria was add support to the existing glove box, be able to remove the glove box and new frame without having to remove heater boxes or other components, retain my factory vaccum trunk release, and keep it light weight.

I started with cardboard as a template then made it from some thin ga. sheet metal.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0795-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMjcE)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0803-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKrPi)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0809-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMTaH)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0812-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKxOY)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0813-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKEEp)



https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0831-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKsJa)

The fuse block is in the back of the original glove box and is bolted to the frame I built for additional support. The ECM is mounted below the glove box to the bottom portion of the frame. The only thing you see when sitting in the car is the bottom of the harness plug hanging just below the bottom of the dash.

The glove box used to have a small shelf for the owners manual inside. I carefully removed that and filled the holes. I cut out part of the back for the fuse block to pass through. When it was done I coated the outside with a layer of fiberglass resin and fine tee shirt type cloth. I painted the inside with grey Plastikote.

[64G-lark]

When I was making the glove box frame. Chase wanted to be involved. He loves to weld and is improving his skills. So I gave him some sheet metal, safety glasses and a grinder. He cut out pieces and made a cube that he mig welded together for practice. He will be better than me in no time.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0804-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMUoR)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0806-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMICY)

[Arctic_Ragtop]

Nice job on the glovebox frame. Car is coming along nicely. Great job so far

[tommycomfort]

That's awesome Mark. Love to see Chase involved too. Great seeing you all at Nashville last weekend.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Jayson.

Thanks Tom. We enjoyed getting to see you and Deb. I wish Sam could have come. To bad the rain washed things out Saturday.

[1968CamaroSS_Sam]

This is a very nice thread. You have done some very nice work on your car. It looks great.

[Paraman1]

Do you have the part number for your heater hoses ?

[64G-lark]

Paraman1,
The hoses for the heater core with the curved ends are 80417CS and 80406CS. Bought them at Advanced Auto Parts. thanks to 1989GTA for the insight.

1968CamaroSS_Sam
Thanks for the kind words.

It been a while since I updated. Life gets in the way sometimes.

[64G-lark]

The drain On the Mike Norris/ DSE catch can was not in a good place. It would have emptied on to the water pump so I decided to create a small aluminum bracket. Like most of the parts I have made I work with something I had left around. This was some 6061 T6 aluminum left over from the motor mount project. I wasn't sure if I could get it hot enough to bend and had heard bending it could cause it to break. I decide to try it and used a small MAP gas torch to heat it. It turned out pretty good and I'm sure it is overkill for no more than it supports. I used a drain petcock for a motorcycle since it doesn't require any tools to open and close.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0891.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XK8MS)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0893-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKWSn)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0892-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKLs4)

[64G-lark]

The exhaust pipes were hanging lower than I liked. I wanted to tuck them up tight to avoid the issues that come up with a car with a low ride height. When I moved the pipes up the transmission cross member was the one thing that prevented them from going any higher. So I made the call to modify the cross member. I bought some 5" square tube and cut it in half. I sectioned a piece into each side of the cross member to provide the clearance I needed. I should have known better but found out it flexed to much with the weight of the transmission on it. I pulled it back out and boxed it using 4" round tube and 3/16" plate. This did the trick and provided the strength and clearance I wanted.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0917-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKqW8)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0918-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XK4F3)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0919-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XK1G5)

[64G-lark]

With everything back in the car my next concern was the drive shaft contacting the exhaust cross over. I don't have a final drive shaft yet, so to check my clearance I sectioned the original drive shaft, welded it back together and used it to mock everything up. This confirmed the clearance issue I suspected when the rear suspension is at full drop. I cut out the original straight crossover pipe and cut 2.5" stainless steel pipe on a 22.5 degree angle. I tacked them together and used this to replace the original crossover without restricting the flow. I then cut 3" stainless steel pipe in half to section into the top of the cross over. I cut the crescent shape in the side facing the drive shaft.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0920.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKJAT)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0921-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKaVZ)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0923-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKRRE)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0922-640x425.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKvQd)

[Motown 454]

Looking good! Nice job on the catch can bracket.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Wayne.

[PhillipM]

Well its been a little while since I have updated. I found a location to mount the proportioning valve. I modified the original Wilwood mount and mounted it to the frame rail below the master cylinder area. Of course while mocking it up I had to take the drivers side header off and the left inner wheel well to give me plenty of room. I also ordered up some better tools for bending brake lines as well as some S.U.R. & R. (NiCopper) tubing. Between the two it made a huge difference. Much easier to work with. I retained the longer runs of SS brake lines I already had and made the rest. Glad to have all the brake lines finally completed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/DSC_079220640x425_zpsypakm5wv-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0792%20640x425_zpsypakm5wv.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/DSC_081420640x425_zpsrf6d7bx3-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0814%20640x425_zpsrf6d7bx3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/DSC_082020640x425_zpsffbikxgu-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0820%20640x425_zpsffbikxgu.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/DSC_082220640x425_zpsifbmuliv-1.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/Thelittledoos/media/DSC_0822%20640x425_zpsifbmuliv.jpg.html)

Mark what brake lines are these? They almost look copper in color...

[64G-lark]

Hey Phillip,
I started out using stainless steel lines and bending them myself. The stainless steel is hard to work with when bending and flaring. It also work hardens. I ruined a good flaring tool in the process. I then found out about the copper nickel lines. They make things so much easier. The brand I used was S.U.R and R. ( http://www.surrauto.com/index.html ) If you are making custom lines I would defiantly recommend using the copper nickel alloys. There are several brands out there. I used this company because they were reasonably priced (Amazon) and they had kits with coils of tubing and a big selection of fittings included. They do have a dull copper color. In the last picture you can see the rear line on the axle housing is still stainless.

[64G-lark]

Its been a while since I have provided any updates. Work on the car hasn't stopped just slowed down a bit. Life gets in the way sometimes. This past January the company I work for announced they would be closing the facility I work at, and relocating to Illinois. My wife and I both work for the same company, so all of our eggs are in one basket as they say. We both have over twenty years invested. We are fortunate in that they have offered to let us retain our positions as long as we are willing to move north. This has been difficult for us and many other projects have got in the way of building the car. In preparation for selling our home we have done lots of updating and we finished our entire basement. Those things are now done and our home is for sell.
I have begun to work on the car a little more lately but this will slow again after the first of the year as I will be spending a lot of time in Illinois and traveling for work.

One of the few areas I decided to splurge on were the gauges. Back in July I began talking with the Dakota Digital folks about what it would take to make some VHX gauges to fit in the Buick dash. They have no offerings for this year Buick, so Phillip in the custom shop helped me come up with a plan. I sent my dash panel to them to work with and was told the process would take 3-4 months.

While waiting for there return I began working on other interior related items. I finally settled on some seats for the car. Recaros and most of the seats I tend to like were out of my budget. I wanted something with good bolstering, and that would retain a tilt forward function. I began looking at OEM style seats and looked heavily at the late model GTO but even the used ones fetch a hefty price and most needed recovering. I ended up buying a full set of 2014 Hyundia Genesis coupe seats from a recycling yard. They are leather and perforated in the center seating area. The have some red stitching that will accent with the red carpet I am using.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0282.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMGSi)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0283.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XKi4o)

[64G-lark]

Using the seats was a bit of a challenge. I wanted to use my original mounting points. The brackets and sliders under the Hyundia seats are not centered under the seats. To correct this and get them mounted, I removed the original sliders and drilled the factory rivets out of the mounting tabs. I then fabbed up some brackets to move the mounting tabs over to meet the factory mounting holes in the Buick. Its sounds much easier than it was. Each of the four mounting points was different but in the end it turned out good.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0965.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XM2Xw)

[64G-lark]

I'm still working on making the rear seat work but from a size perspective it fits pretty well.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0974.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMB4P)

[64G-lark]

With transmission tunnel mods the factory carpet does not fit well. In keeping with the budget theme I decided to come up with a way to make it work. I split the carpet right down the middle and decided to build a center console to cover the split. I have never attempted to build a console but figured I could come up with a way. I built a light weight wooden version as a starting point, using some wood left over from building projects on the home. 1/4" plywood for most of it.
Key things I wanted to incorporate into the console were cup holders, a power outlet, USB plugs, and four rocker switches for future use. I also wanted to keep the height below the factory heater duct.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0966.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMZUp)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0968.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMbRe)

I used fiberglass resin and some felt cloth to cover it. Then lots of sanding and shaping

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0969.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMSYH)

I still have some final sanding to do before I paint it. I plan to insert some aluminum panels in the recessed areas around the shifter and to mount the switches and plugs in.

I sourced some stainless steel cup holders with red leds in the bottom and drain holes to allow condensation and spills away out. The power outlet also glows a red color when nothing is plugged in. The USB outlet and rocker switches have red lighting as well

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0982.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMELc)

[Motown 454]

They look like nice seats. The console's going to be sweet when your done.

[Steve-O-08]

Awesome build so far! I love your attention to detail. Keep up the great work.

[tommycomfort]

Everything is looking great! I really like they console build and still plan to do something similar to our 66 one of these days.

[Tincup]

Nice job.....

[64G-lark]

Thanks Wayne, Steve, Tom and Tincup.

I added a Momo steering wheel using a B & B Classics adapter then some Clayton machine works pedals covers for the brake and clutch pedals I also used their shifter handle on the Pro 5.0 shifter. I am using a trans-dapt rubber shifter boot under the carpet to help seal things up and cut down on heat getting in the car. When the console is finished I will use the Billet Specialties shifter boot ring and a leather Lokar boot.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0972.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMuVD)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0973.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XM3nh)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0975.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMVbm)

[64G-lark]

After months of waiting I received my dash back from Dakota Digital. I opted for the red lighting and the silver background. Hopefully this will make it easier for any other 64-65 A-body Buicks that want to go with the VHX style gauges.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/01/DSC_0977.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XMgUU)

[analyte]

Mark,
I love some of your ideas!! A console is in my future as well, and I have to admit you've given me several things to consider..

Kerry

[64G-lark]

Thanks Kerry. I have been watching your thread. Looks like you have been having a blast.

[Jimbo1367]

Mark,
I love your build. I am glad to see you jumped on the LS bandwagon. I ASSUME the MAST cam package designed for the heavier L92 vales?

[Pt109]

Hey Mark,

Cool car. You are very creative. Looking at so many really inspires me to let some of my ideas come out. I love to see so many different cars and the different parts from different vehicles, I never would have thought to look at a Hyundai. Keep up the great work.
Bruce

[64G-lark]

Thanks Bruce. I will be watching your build as well.

[64G-lark]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1034_zps2kbchcv8-1.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XF3nk)

This is the bracket I fabricated to support the front edge of the bottom cushion. I used some 3/4" channel and some sheet metal to form the hump support. This will keep the front portion of the seat from bending down when in use.

Once I finished the test fitting, I used plastic to protect the upholstered area of the seat and I laid down two cans of great foam on the recessed floor area under the seat area. I then bolted the seat in and let it sit over night. I probably didn't have to do this, but the bottom of the seat is now formed to the floor and wont break down the cushion over time. Plus its light weight. Once it set up overnight I removed the seat bottom and used a utility knife to carve away the area for the seat belts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1038_zpsemffvzqn.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFDZo)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1037_zpsrlv0ooj1.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFol4)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1036_zpskhzs6pi7.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFKon)

[Zoomin]

Snazzy!

[analyte]

Those look good in there!! The back seat appears to be a perfect fit.

[Pt109]

That looks great. The front seats look really comfortable, what are they out of? Its amazing how the interior changes the look of a car. You'll be tearing up the track befor you know it!!

[MTZ28]

Just read your entire thread. Great thread, it's so awesome to see a "family" involved with this car. I love the ls with the Buick paint.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Zoomin, Kerry, PT109 and MTZ28. The seats are out of a 2014 Hyundai Genesis Coupe. I was surprised how well the back seat fit. I will have to widen the original arm rests on the back side panels a little to take up about a inch on each side. I added some details above.

[Rick Giles]

This car is a work of art! Just found this thread and sorry I didn't see it a long time ago!

[1965_SS]

Nice build! I like that tunnel work. I was also thinking of starting out with a Camaro tunnel like you did. Any more updates?

[64G-lark]

Thanks Rick and Todd.
I have been traveling a lot for work so I haven't had much time on the car. I did get to hang out with Tom and Sam Farrington a few weeks ago and we did a little work on Debs wagon. I had a good time. If you can't be home working on your car, might as well hang out with good people and help them on theirs.
I have managed to catch a weekend every now and then to work on mine. I created a mount for the Dakota digital controller behind the dash. Anyone recognize what it's made out of?

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1060_zps4kqxa8zp.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFt67)

[64G-lark]

Installed the gas tank. I glued some rubber strips to the top of the tank to isolate the tank from the trunk floor and some rubber strips between the tank straps and the tank itself.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1042_zpsjhkzcguk.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFwc5)

[64G-lark]

The sending unit comes with instructions on how to determine the correct length and then cut the bracket off to length. I didn't like the idea of a open slot at the bottom, so I welded a stop on the end. Probably not a big deal, but it just didn't suit me.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1041_zpst1aixooq.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFMf3)

I had some stainless steel check valve fittings that I drilled out and used to build extensions to bring the hard lines beyond the edge of the tank to make changing the hoses easier.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1043_zpsbcb88h0v.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFELT)

I cut a couple holes in the trunk floor above the fuel pump and sending unit to make access easier. I haven't come up with a plan for a cover yet but I have couple thoughts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1055_zpszvsbosrd.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFQoi)

[64G-lark]

The first of three shipments of A & N fittings and hose. I hope this stuff last a long time, as I spent way more than I intended. The next two shipments were because I missed something or decided to route things differently. I went with the black anodized Fragola Pro - Flow for all the hoses except the power steering pressure line. I went with Russell for it. I have had good luck with the Fragola fittings and chose them because there made in the USA and readily avliable from Summit. Using number 6 lines for fuel feed, fuel return, breathers and power steering. Oil cooler and accumulator lines in number 10.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1040_zpsdp5qf6og.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFx6S)

[Zoomin]

You and I are on parallel tracks right now - I just mounted the tank in my Lemans this afternoon. A word of warning, be careful when tightening the negative terminal on the tank. It's a cheesy little stud and it won't tolerate any abuse. It just snapped off, and I was using a screwdriver with a socket, just trying to flatten the lock washer. Plan B, I used one of the mounting screws. It worked, thank goodness.

[analyte]

B&B Classics sells a fuel pump access cover that you could use to cover the holes. It's actually bigger than you need so it could allow you to enlarge the holes some if you wanted.

[Arctic_Ragtop]

Nice work and great photo documentation. Is the Dakota Box mount made from a drawer slider ? I wasn't sure how to mount it in the same spot either, didn't want to self tap it to that metal panel as the screws would show through the cowl below the windshield wipers, decided on Heavy Duty black Velcro, incase I ever have to remove or want to move it there aren't any holes to fill. Your mount looks a little bit more permanent, looks good. I am about to order a Tanks Inc EFI tank with the pump and sender for mine as well. Nice job so far

[64G-lark]

Thanks Kerry. That is a really nice cover. I think I have come up with a option I will share soon.

Hey Jayson you were close. It's actually a support for closetmaid shelving LOL. I shortened it up flattened out the end, drilled some holes and welded on a tab to mount to. It's light, I had one laying around and it worked out. Like you I didn't want to drill through into the cowl area. Just asking for a leak.

Chase helping me with the bulkhead fitting for the accusump.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1053_zps8shhklrc.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XF5Cd)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1047_zpsy1aedc13.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFnfY)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1054_zps7agdpdly.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFUrm)

[64G-lark]

The bare spots in front of the accusump are we're I had to weld up the holes from the first attempt at mounting. I miscalculated and my bulkhead fitting came to close to the spring pocket on the frame below.��.

Canton recommends mounting it with a slight rake to prevent areation of the oil. So I made three 1/4" aluminum spacers. One under the right side and two under the left. This also helped get it at the right height for the bulkhead fitting. A-body cars have this large hump in the sheet metal that make mounting options challenging. I cut and ground the mount to contour over the hump.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1061_zps2htcdunp.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFAeH)

[64G-lark]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/DSC_1056_zpsp4a7jirk.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFjcR)

[64G-lark]

It's been a while since I updated the build. Life throws you a curve ball sometimes. Previously I mentioned traveling for work a lot. The company I work for elected to close the facility I worked at and move the equipment and operations from Franklin, NC to Peoria, IL. My family and I had lots of tough decisions to make. My wife and I both work for the same company and each of us have twenty years invested. Nothing like having all your eggs in one basket! We dearly loved western NC and had to consider many options and impacts.
Over the last two years we sold our home, moved 700 miles from our previous home. Bought a home under construction, started working at a new facility with all the headaches of getting all the equipment up and training new employees. During the transition I spent two weeks at a time in the new location and then a long weekend with family back in NC. We officially made the move in June of 2016. Its taken a while to get settled but we are pretty much settled now. When we sold our home I gave up the Garage I had spent years setting up. Im still figuring out what to do for a new work space. One positive is I'm much closer to the Farrington's, and Aaron Oberle now. The Buick moved with me and I am back at it.


In route to the North.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/C52D345D-53BF-406A-8CFB-44F44AA0F472.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XV0mG)
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/E0238B11-B1AD-46AB-BDEB-322C08D322BA.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVDXK)

Arriving at our new home. As you can see the new yard required a lot of my attention for a while.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/EE31EF1E-B7EF-4DD6-AF2E-06D381759B30.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XV6lc)

[64G-lark]

When I got back to work on the car I was battling getting enough space to mount a air intake, P.S. resevoir, radiator hoses, etc. I ended up moving the motor back closer to the firewall to give me some additional space. To do this I removed the frame side BRP mounts cut the tube off and welded it further back. I added a few holes to lighten it up while I was at it.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/CDA4A96D-2FA9-49A2-A00F-CAACAF24E8D2.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVxnN)

Another issue I had was the back up light switch on the right side of the transmission. When building the tunnel I allowed for the switch, but didn't anticipate how large the plug was. Rather than adding a kick-out to the transmission tunnel to create more space I found a solution that might help others. The switch on the left is the original GM style. The plug in faces straight out and the plug and wires go straight on the end. The switch on the left is a Ford Mustang switch. The plug doesn't look a lot shorter but the black cap on the end with the wire leads unplugs. The weather pack terminals in the plug itself are just the opposite of the GM. Rather than changing the switch plug I changed my harness plug terminals.
If it ever goes out a simple visit to a auto parts store and its plug and play.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/4ABC82F9-9325-4C2B-B8E6-76F84A065C63.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVKMD)

[tommycomfort]

Great to see the update Mark! Beautiful home too!

[Motown 454]

Sweet project and a beautiful home. I can't imagine such a big decision like that. glad you got it figured out and have some time to work on the car. Good Luck in your new home and jobs.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom and Wayne.

I made this panel out of 16ga aluminum to mount in the area between the left inner fender and the core support. This holds my headlight relays and fan relays as well as the fuses.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/A9D4959C-20A2-4FCE-B211-8F4E238B185B.jpg

Power steering resivoir mounted and plumbed

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/D6F8F5E9-C0BE-40BA-A5EE-EB4B6E9A09AC.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVICS)

[64G-lark]

CAI intake cut to fit. I used a Spectra kit designed for a Chevelle and cut things to fit. I made radiator hoses from silicone hose and a splice on each one. Gates Power-grip clamps. I modified the stock steam crossover line by removing the nipple on the right side. I drilled and tapped it to take a plug then drilled and tapped the right side for a 1/4" elbow. Now the steam hose follows the upper radiator hose back to the radiator.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/3EA22E3F-FE1A-4FA9-A6CE-35447D90CCDD.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVmbw)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/D1D4644B-F8F1-4E69-89FF-70B38F33F7B6.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEIM3)

[gearheads78]

Love this car and the details

[64G-lark]

Thanks Gearheads78.

I mounted the panel with the relays and fuses in the left front between the core support and the inner fender

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/71F3019B-59D9-4295-916A-5FBFB2B9A66E.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVnYt)

[64G-lark]

Ive been busy with wiring for a while now. Electrical isn't my strong point and this has been a challenge. I won't bore you with a bunch of wiring pictures. I am using a standalone Mast harness for the engine. I have added dual electrical fans running through relays and activated by a temp. sensor as well as a manual overide. I converted the headlights from four to two because I am using the previous high beam location for air intakes. I also ran them through relays. Installing the Ididit column meant converting to the later style plug and adding hazards. Accusump wiring, trunk mounted battery, electric fuel pump, trans harness and lots of changes to add the Dakota Digital gauges. I debated using a aftermarket harness but I couldn't find one that really fit my needs. So many spools of wire, Packard 56 connectors and metric pack connectors later I made my on harness for everything from the firewall forward. I modified my existing dash harness removing all the unneeded wires and adding others. In most cases I used the same color wires as the factory to make it easier to trace. I tried to keep them as hidden as possible.

I added a bulkhead connector low on the passenger side firewall and ran the battery cable under the carpet from the trunk.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/3AE51E1B-FDF2-485A-B2CF-F21BC578DB04.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVQMa)

I chose to mount the battery in the trunk but to keep it out of the way of the accusump and save trunk space I mounted it under the package tray. I used 1/8" angle iron with welded stops on the ends to make a track the the battery holder to slide into. I added some rubber strips to the track as well as the box to dampen the battery from vibration. The battery box can be removed by lifting it and sliding it out without tools. The box itself is aluminum and the battery is a Braille.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/C5943F24-CE71-41D0-A206-3683F3E795F3.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVtnn)

[64G-lark]

I struggled to find insulated clamps in the sizes I wanted and custom lengths to protect the engine harness from the headers and moving components so I elected to make my on. I used some 16 ga aluminum, heat shrink and a few tools. To form the different diameters I used sockets.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/1112FE90-E39E-4F75-8E15-A2DD21BD2F75.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVfb4)

[64G-lark]

I made my own cables for the battery, alternator and large feeds. I used 1/0 for the long runs and 8awg for charge wires. I drill the end of each terminal end so I can solder the ends after crimping and use heat shrink to seal them up.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/3CD4EC51-75C8-4EC1-B5F2-9F89CD94C7D3.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVkm5)

[64G-lark]

I used Spectre aluminum head light funnels that I cut to length. I modified the headlight buckets to accept them. I wanted to add some screens but I wanted them recessed rather than the style Spectre offers that mount in front. I had a desk tray with a screen I liked so I cut it up and formed the screen around the back of the funnels. The buckets sandwich the screen in place once installed.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/A1AFE392-2834-4AE6-8326-E8E78BEA7E62.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVsXT)
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/31/7A518DF6-60F3-4174-AA16-31DC74191289.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XVAL3)

[tommycomfort]

Great work Mark! I love all the custom stuff even though it takes massive amounts of time.

[tim222]

Keep it coming I need inspiration!
Love the attention to detail.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tim and Tom

May 31st was a milestone day. My oldest son Cade came up for a visit and helped Chase (the youngest) and I fire the car for the first time since the swap. I expected to have a few issues but it actually went better than I expected. First time I missed getting a fitting by the tank tight and quickly found a small leak when the fuel pump kicked on. Attempt two had the feed and return lines backwards at the filter/regulator. Attempt three she tried to fire but backfired a little. Had the coil wiring connectors backwards. Once those issues were corrected she fired right up. It was sweet to hear and see some progress after all the work. Still working through some electrical bugs. The reverse lights stay on the whole time the car is on? Still no headlights, and the fans haven't worked yet. I hate electrical issues!


https://youtu.be/tyb3RRgU2Uw

[Paraman1]

I love the headlight change. What all was involved in changing it to just the 2 outside lamps and maintaining the high beams?

[Bob in St. Louis]

Love that sound!

[64G-lark]

Paraman1
I'm still working out the details. Essentially I modified the wiring harness from four to two lights. The outside lights have both low and high beam function. I also added headlight relays which I'm still working through.
Solved the fan issues!

Thanks Bob. I'm pleased with the idle. I think it will settle down a little more once I get to were I can drive it. It's a little louder than I thought it would be. Still have some things to do before I can drive it. Have to have a new driveshaft made, wheels to clear the brakes, etc.

[65Skylark]

Looks great! We have similar ideas, although your car and work is much cleaner than mine haha. I also used the spectre headlight funnels, but without any screens, ran my battery cable the same way, and mounted my headlight and fan relays in the same spot too. I'm hoping to get mine drivable by this fall.

[64G-lark]

Thanks 65Skylark

[Dr. Evil]

Just keep at it, great work! I'm way behind you guys but its still nice to see other early skylark builds here. I've been dragging my feet on my BBB build but its close.

[64G-lark]

Been a while since I have updated. I got disgusted after photobucket ruined all my links. Finally decided to fix them. A big thanks to Larry and hostmyjunk.com . Still have to fix a few strays but I think I have most fixed.

In July of 2017 we went to Gingerman Raceway to meet up with friends and enjoy a weekend of racing. It was also a good time to meet up to pick up some parts. When Aaron Oberle upgraded his rear in Grandpaw I bought his previous. This got me a nine inch Mosier housing with a Strange noduler center section, 31 spline axles, Truetrac diff and 3.70 gear. The rear is slightly narrowed.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/1DD3AB98-35CD-4B7E-BD53-E3A9C1BAE826.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XECVS)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/EF9F8AAD-F27E-4718-AFEA-DE3DC1548EEA.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEsR5)
My vicious guard dog Scout slipped in the picture.


https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/5A4D21F5-7FA9-498F-BEDC-73C4AE5345AA.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFPgw)

The Farrington wagon.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/ACB42975-022E-4C84-BADF-1033B6A9089D.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XF4ek)

Aaron and Jill’s Vette.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/43F426C1-E44D-4AF6-BD47-0C5E684332A7.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFW7G)

[64G-lark]

Labor Day weekend 2017 didn’t go as planned. Chase and I were loading the Buick rear end in my truck on Friday evening with the intentions of going to a Cars and Coffee the next morning. We had a mishap and the rear end fell on my big toe. The brake rotor specifically. I won’t post the graphic images but it was not pretty. Needless to say we never made the show and I spent the evening and next morning at the ER. This slowed me down a bit.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/15/907FE525-90D0-4673-BFC5-730596DF3CAD.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFeuK)

[Bob in St. Louis]

Ouch!

[NoNo]

Ouch ! That is some mishap... Sorry to hear about your toe !

Great work on the car, though, I don't know how I had missed this thread. Love the A bodies

[64G-lark]

The reared was set-up for coilovers and had the adapter plates to accept Kore 3 disc brake conversion for the 330mm C-5 corvette rotors with integral parking brakes in the hats.
I made the decision to upgrade to Ridetech coil overs.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/8D1D03C6-8B41-40B5-ADCF-DFDB8509E3A6.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XF10a)

Brake rotor part number
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/A7936F81-8CE0-467A-8B3D-ED530ED81910.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XmOqZ)

[64G-lark]

At times I am my own worst enemy. I am just to picky. When I started this build BRP was the only company offering mounts and headers designed to work toegether. After trying my own mounts, then eventually going with BRP I was never completely satisfied. Finding the sweet spot of engine placement that didn’t mount the engine to far forward, tie rod clearance to oil pan, header clearance. Power steering pump pulley to steering gear, room for heater hoses, room in front of the engine for fans and the cia. My last changes got me close in all respects but I compromised engine height and drive line angles due to the header design. Before I ordered a drive shaft I wanted to take another look at what Holley was doing. I was already using their FEAD. After talking with Todd at Holley about my goals and comparing dimensions with my current set-up I determined their rear mount design was what I was looking for. This would mean more changes had to be made. I started with the engine mounts and found them to be what I was looking for. The engine sat lower in the frame, I had more clearance for heater hoses, and still had clearance for the power steering pulley and tie rods. My headers would have to change and I would have to make some more changes for radiator location and the CAI.

The Holley mounts use the 4th gen. (98-02) Camaro clamshells and I opted to use them with Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/1ADCB1C0-402E-4254-8928-135C8AF434AC.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEoDe)

[64G-lark]

Next up was changing to the Holley transmission crossmember and headers. I am a fan of the mid length header and upgraded to the 1 7/8” primary.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/DB53B95F-592E-45B7-9960-17F79644031B.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XmzuT)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/092F7D9B-4119-4546-84FA-C016D7973279.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XEnHk)

The only downside I have seen with the Holley parts is the transmission crossmember and mounting is very heavy. After mocking it up for fit I decided to see I could lighten it up a little. These are the mounts that bolt to the frame rails. The one in the back is as made. The one in the front is after shedding some weight.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/8F9B78DF-D506-4C6D-AF01-0AB0AAD7607B.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XETQT)

The crossmember itself didn’t have much that could be removed. I did add two holes to make accessing the transmission mount bolts easier.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/5EF078EE-6042-4D82-994E-66CECD525FF5.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XmN5E)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/D4087D89-2459-4E58-AC70-9A52E173291B.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XmX1S)

[64G-lark]

In early December Chase and I attended the PRI Show in Indianapolis thanks to the Farringtons. Good times catching up with friends and making new ones. Also a chance to see all the new parts. We had a great dinner after the show. While there I finally ordered the driveshaft from Steve at Dynotech. Great person to deal with.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/3E3F08DD-7FE5-4C69-9A4E-D9EAFEFB044E.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Xmbzd)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/1E08C0A2-19BD-43C9-923E-9B141A4F0FB8.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XE9Aw)

3.5” aluminum driveshaft

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/2FC1B215-8E48-4854-B3E3-F148C0600BC9.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XE0GN)

[64G-lark]

When I fired the car I was shocked at how loud the car was. Since I moved the engine and changed headers I was having to rework the exhaust. I have been very impressed at how well all the Holley and Hooker components work together so I decided to try the Blackheart 3” stainless steel exhaust. Impressed again. It tucks up tighter and has a true x type crossover.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/13/81D6ABA3-E1B3-44A9-B85A-3FC6DFDB6736.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XE6QK)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/16/CB3621AE-B6D1-4E56-A8F3-38D36C1C8615.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/XFlr8)

[Sterho]

Just stumbled across this awesome thread. Not too many of us out there that are building early Buick PT rides, especially at this level. I am a few steps behind you, but working on it. Great work so far, and I would love to see your car in person some time, being you aren't located that far away from Rockford. Always looking for road destinations on the weekend.... Thanks for sharing all the detailed pics!!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Sterho it’s been a long project. Do you have a build thread? Welcome to come take a look sometime.

[65Skylark]

Would you be able to give me your passenger head to firewall measurement and frame to oil pan rail distance? I'm trying to determine if going with a holley kit will actually be worth the investment on my 65 Skylark vs the mix & match parts I have now.

Thank you

[64G-lark]

65Skylark here are a few pictures you requested. This link might help out as well.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1823793-hooker-1964-67-body-ls-swap-system-preview-thread.html

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/08EA7260-53C9-4504-85EA-0FC0FB07826D.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0ZKN)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/811D9E73-EC5E-4EA7-86A2-17AF15EBAEE7.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0Gym)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/65D37D30-26C5-4499-9801-23A6EB1F3E2F.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0NJw)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/6EAE92BD-2360-4B21-A67F-FFCEE5AA3B55.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0ztU)

[64G-lark]

Paraman1

Here are a few more pictures for you.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/BC887007-2267-49FC-ACA1-0A4A3064E8A1.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0SHG)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/6A7A1C37-6FD7-4742-885E-920BE30F9DC6.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X03Oa)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/25/DB8DAFE1-F1F9-4672-B703-2403393CC0AC.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/X0bDk)

[Paraman1]

Thanks a bunch Mark! I just ordered my headers, oil pan and motor mounts from TDS-Kreations as well as buying 2 motors to get started on my LS swap. So thankful there are some guys doing great things with the early A-bodies so that those of us following along have an easier time building ours :)

[Dlmwtvl]

Great work!!!
What brand brakes did you go with?

[64G-lark]

I have done a poor job of keeping the build updated here. But I am glad to report the car has been on the road since late September but is now put away for its winter hibernation. I have been through and still working through a few issues. I finally resolved a number of electrical gremlins. Once on the road it took some tweaking to get all of the Dakota digital gauges calibrated and working. I will try to bring the thread up to date over the coming days.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Nice!

[64G-lark]

Thanks Bob.

I’m happy to report all of the Holley components worked great. In the end I used their oil pan, front accessory drive, rearward engine mounts, 1 7/8” mid length headers, 3” exhaust, and transmission mount. I was really pleased with the exhaust system as it cleared everything and tucked up tight.
The only issue I had was a slight rub of the steering shaft on a drivers side primary header tube. This was due to the larger Borgenson collapsible steering shaft. I resolved this by adding a couple of washers between the engine block and the motor mount.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/40B84E41-8E41-4C64-B698-AF04808826AD.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/SrV7p)

[Bob in St. Louis]

Very cool! I absolutely LOVE the big 60's GM cars. ROCK ON!!
(but I predict the rubber accordion and wire tie to be short lived)

[64G-lark]

When Tom Upgraded his brakes I purchased his previous brakes as a upgrade to mine. I now have Baer 6P’s with two piece rotors on all four corners.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/F1C82CB1-696E-4AFE-BFB7-519C0F071413.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Srxvm)

One of my concerns was tire clearance on the front. I decided to make some changes to the inner fenders to allow for more clearance. The changes I made are hidden by the outer fenders but provided lots of extra room. This picture shows the in process changes.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/2BD9D95D-624C-400A-91BA-18F12FA11F8C.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/SrwkP)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/76907A66-7FB4-4D57-A6B1-50F8886056AE.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/SrN0T)

[64G-lark]

The first time I built the car I purchased Intro 17” Vista wheels. I really liked the looks and ran them for several years. My issues started when I first upgraded brakes and now with the 6P’s there was no way they would work. The two other issues were 1.) the valve stem holes were on the backside and the stems hit the calipers on the previous upgrade. 2.) they were heavy. I hunted high and low to find a affordable three piece wheel in a 18” size that could also do custom widths. I ordered one set from a unnamed company to only to be called back a month later and told they couldn’t meet the specifications I requested.
In the end I settled on Jongbloed Racing X-6 three piece wheels. They are expensive but not as high as some other brands. Ryan was able to meet all of my spec’s ( larger front hubs, big brake clearance, 1/2” studs, custom sizing, and valve steam location. They are much lighter than the previous wheels. The sizes are 18 x 9 front and rear. Backspacing in the front is 5.75” and the rears are 4.25”. Keep in mind my rear has been narrowed. With the inner fender changes I could have gone to a 9.5” front and may do that in the future. This was part of my reason for going three piece. So I could rehoop as I continue to make changes. I plan to add some mini tubs in the future.

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/36D7CC92-5314-48E9-9777-7B1FA8BF79FD.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/SrbzZ)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/D4501842-6C7F-4ED3-8006-518FE969E3F4.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/Soyg3)

[64G-lark]

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/8D141361-B7EC-46F6-9847-4F7994E402D4.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/SoCfm)

https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/26/7A87E6D5-3000-43D8-91EE-2C0DCCF640D3.md.jpg (https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/So10K)

[Bygblok]

This is really cool and makes me glad that I’m getting some time right now to love on my 66 Special. Not going this extreme but still doing the big wheels and tires and at some point a power update. For now the poor old 300 will keep it rolling until my 69 Dart, my boat and my bike go away. Clearing the herd a bit for room and my wife won’t let me sell the 70 camaro!

[skylark guy]

Skylark looks great! Your thread has motivated me to get moving on my 65!

[64G-lark]

Bob I agree. So far it’s held up but we will see how long.

Thanks Bygblok. Good luck on the 66, I started the same way but things have a way of snow balling.

Thanks Skylark guy.

[Bygblok]

Bob I agree. So far it’s held up but we will see how long.

Thanks Bygblok. Good luck on the 66, I started the same way but things have a way of snow balling.

Thanks Skylark guy.
This was part of my weekend. Out with the old and in with the new.....

[PTbuick]

Hi Mark,

I just spent a considerable amount of time reading through your thread. All I can say is wow! Thanks for taking the time to document it and glad to see it’s been a family project.

Lou

[andrewb70]

Those wheels on a white car look amazing.

Andrew

[64G-lark]

Thanks Lou and Andrew. Andrew I really like the Cougar. I have been following your steering upgrades.

[andrewb70]

Thanks Lou and Andrew. Andrew I really like the Cougar. I have been following your steering upgrades.

Thanks Mark. I hope to have that wrapped up soon. I have the electronics to wrap up, but I also want to redo some of the mechanical aspects of the epas installation.

The more I look at your Buick the more I like it. It's so much more interesting than a 64 Chevelle. Having said that, I think I'm a minority in preferring the 64-65 A-bodies, regardless of make. Seems that most people tend to favor the 66-67s, at least for the early years.

Andrew

[Paraman1]

Seems that most people tend to favor the 66-67s, at least for the early years.

Andrew

Screw those guys, nobody needs to live with that kind of negativity.....LOL

The 64-65 GM A-bodies are the best of the 60's :)

[Bygblok]

178533178534
I’ll get there some day!

[Zoomin]

Welcome back! Look forward to seeing more...

[saintd]

I’m looking to possibly go this route, did anything get salvaged from the original car? I’m in MI