67 RS camaro bi-xenon HID headlight doors won't open?

[1967ls2]

Just finished installing a bi-xenon HID kit in my 67 RS/SS. Problem is the HID kit has a harness which only plugs into one if the stock harnesses headlight pigtails leaving the other unused. Now my headlights torn on & the doors open fine but the headlights & doors won't close our turn off when I push the headlight switch in.

If I take the stock bulb & plug it into the unused pigtail everything works perfectly. However I don't want a random bulb plugged into the harness floating around the engine bay just so the headlight doors function properly. The extra bulb could light something on fire.

How do I solve this problem? I'm sure there are tons of rs camaro's out there with HID's & they must have solved this problem by now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[1967ls2]

I'm baffled here. I can't get the headlights & doors to function 100% without plugging in the stock bulb into the unused pigtail from the oem rs harness.

[Schwartz Performance]

What about splicing the wires from one side to the matching wires on the other side? There might be an easier way... Just a thought!

-Dale

[jmanel]

Measure the resistance of that extra bulb and replace it with a resistor of similar resistance. No fire that way.

[1967ls2]

I was thinking about running the wires from the unused pigtail to the used pigtail to see if that would close the loop.

I was also thinking about running a fuse or something in the unused pigtail. I think a fuse would probably be the cleanest so I don't have an excess amount of wires running back & fourth across my engine bay.

I'm just surprised I haven't seen anything on the internet about a fix for this. I'm sure there are a ton of 67 rs camaro's running HID lights who must have run into this problem also.

[1967ls2]

I wired a resistor in place of the bulb. It completes the circuit and everything works perfectly. Now the problem with this is the resistor heats up super hot. I could only find a 20 watt 8 ohm resistor at radio shack. Perry suite I'm going to need something in the 55-100 watt range. Hopefully that large of a resistor will be able to take more watts & not heat up as much.

[1967ls2]

Yep I'm at a loss here. I have found no way to get these lights & headlight doors to work with this HID system/relay harness setup. I'm going to have to return them :(

[130fe]

Which hid system are you using?

[rallystyle]

this place should have all the parts you need for a hid setup. if its not on the site I would send them a email.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-hd-load-resistors.html

they also have a new light that would work good in a 7" headlight design. may have to try it my self

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/morimoto-sealed7-headlights-48492.html

[chuckd71]

If you aren't running legit projectors please do everyone else on the road a favor and take the ricer hid kit out.
That said, would it be possible to use the extra wires to run a set of fog lights or something like that? That seems like it might be ideal (assuming you like fog lights I guess).

[1967ls2]

I actually already have converted my lower valance lights into daytime running lights. I looked into projectors and most kits are like $500+.

Attached is a pic comparison of my headlights before & after. The HID setup looks much brighter & isn't a strain on my electrical system sense it now has it's own harness/relay system.

From what I can tell all HID harness kits only utilize one of the oem harness pigtails so no matter which I choose I'm going to be in the same position. I think I'm going to get the lowest wattage h4 standard bulb I can find, put it in the unused plug, paint it with high temp black paint so it's not shining & just tie it up & call it a day.

[Bigblue73]

That looks Awesome! Nice job.

[67marina]

Just got done with this problem. Mine work perfect now. I used two 20 ohm 100 watt resistors with heat sink- one for high beam and one for low beam. For the connector on the side of your harness you need to buy an H4 MALE connector, it will plug right into your existing harness and keep everything nice and clean looking. Get some wire and solder a section about 8 or 9 inches to one side of each resistor-one for green lead one for light brown-and the otherside-black- will need to loop back around and you will need to attach both wires together and that will be attached to the black lead on your harness. That completes the circuit and the doors will open and close. This set up will run hot when your headlights are on, mine run about 250 degrees. This is where the extra wire comes in. I looped mine to the front and attached to the lower passenger side of the radiator support with an aluminum standoff. Air flow keeps them happy but even if not moving there is no problem just dont touch them. Resistors are available from ebay for under $3 each and the H4 male connector i got from amazon for $4. If someone could tell me how to upload pics i can post what it will look like when done.

Just for future reference the halogen light bulbs used in the stock circuit complete a return leg for the motors as they have continuity. The bulbs from an HID kit have no continuity as they work on an arc to produce the light. This is why when you replace the halogens wih an HID kit the doors no longer work, there is no path. Even if you ran wires to the other side the problem will still be there, the circuit for at least one side of the pigtail needs to be a complete circuit.

On another note, im using an hid kit from ONEX. I had paid a ton of money for the true projector style housings and found they are just plain garbage. I bought a set of HELLA housings from summit and installed my hid kit and couldnt be happier. After adjusting them correctly I have no problems and they DO NOT blind oncoming traffic, unless I turn the brights on!