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View Full Version : headers that fit - dse steering box in the way



AAQUINO11
02-16-2014, 03:47 PM
ive tried dynatech headers and they hung so low they were an inch from the ground. i bought s and p shorties. much better ground clearance but wont allow dse steering box in. i have grinded the corners of the dse box and it still wont go in. i am using trans dapt motor mounts on sbc frame stands. any suggestions? anyone use the new hooker stainless headers? need better steering box clearance

thanks

anthony

regal454
02-16-2014, 04:35 PM
How close is the header to the steering box? I'm assuming this is a first gen Camaro because of the Dynatech comment. I believe the Big Block frame stands offset the engine to the passenger side just a bit. You may want to try them before ditching the headers.

AAQUINO11
02-16-2014, 05:05 PM
I need approx 1/4". It just about fits but will be tight to touching the header.

Toddoky
02-17-2014, 07:44 AM
I need approx 1/4". It just about fits but will be tight to touching the header.
I'm not sure if these will help you, but here's two images of a Hooker LS swap header installation with the stock power steering box. Maybe you can use them to scale some usable dimensions off of to determine if they would be compatible with your DSE box.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s765.photobucket.com/user/toddoky/media/IMG_2391_zps813580e6.jpg.html)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s765.photobucket.com/user/toddoky/media/IMG_2393_zps51a1465a.jpg.html)

Toddoky
02-17-2014, 07:51 AM
How close is the header to the steering box? I'm assuming this is a first gen Camaro because of the Dynatech comment. I believe the Big Block frame stands offset the engine to the passenger side just a bit. You may want to try them before ditching the headers.

That's correct, BB frame stands shift the engine over to the right and forward from the position provided by the SB stands and they require the use of a transmission crossmember with the same right-side offset to maintain proper U-joint geometry.

Toddoky
02-17-2014, 11:19 AM
I need approx 1/4". It just about fits but will be tight to touching the header.

As a point of reference, the distance across the two surfaces indicated by the red arrows in exactly 3.5" (I measured the box personally).90340

AAQUINO11
02-17-2014, 11:53 AM
Todd, thanks for your help. I have been reading all the threads you posted about the new Hooker Headers. I am thinking about getting them and they look like they will actually fit. The other two sets i have tried do not fit at all, i had to beat them with a socket and hammer to get them in but now they dont look so appealing.

I have the trans dapt motor mount adapter plates right now not sure if those will work with your headers.

And if i do use the hooker motor mounts will it shift my motor and trans so i have to modify my transmission x member?

Toddoky
02-17-2014, 12:26 PM
Todd, thanks for your help. I have been reading all the threads you posted about the new Hooker Headers. I am thinking about getting them and they look like they will actually fit. The other two sets i have tried do not fit at all, i had to beat them with a socket and hammer to get them in but now they dont look so appealing.

I have the trans dapt motor mount adapter plates right now not sure if those will work with your headers.

And if i do use the hooker motor mounts will it shift my motor and trans so i have to modify my transmission x member?

The new Hooker headers were designed to work with the unique geometry of the new Hooker clamshell retrofit mounts, which have completely different fitment constraints than any frame stand/swap plate/old style Chevy mount combination. Since the position of the engine obtained with the Hooker mounts is lower for optimizing U-joint working angles, it's highly likely that you will encounter multiple fitment issues if you attempt to install them with frame stands/swap plates. The new Hooker headers, engine mounts and transmission crossmembers were all designed as part of a complete package solution to some of the longstanding issues with this application and are not really intended to be used piece-meal to solve issues with existing installations made up of components from various manufacturers. Because of the way the new headers split the tubes around the steering box, their successful fitment will require that the fore/aft engine position used be identical to that obtained with the Hooker engine mounts and transmission crossmembers. I have no idea if the same engine fore/aft position and height can be obtained with your mounts and crossmember, but I error on the side of caution and say no to prevent you from ultimately being dissatisfied with a combination of parts that was not designed to work together.

AAQUINO11
02-17-2014, 01:32 PM
Ok thanks for the good info. If i do change the headers i will swap out the engine mounts to make sure it fits as designed. Do you know the part numbers for the engine mount kit/ stands? and 1" 3/4 stainless headers?

Thanks

Toddoky
02-17-2014, 02:14 PM
Ok thanks for the good info. If i do change the headers i will swap out the engine mounts to make sure it fits as designed. Do you know the part numbers for the engine mount kit/ stands? and 1" 3/4 stainless headers?

Thanks

You may also need to replace your transmission crossmember as well, but you can take a wait-and-see approach to that after you install the Hooker engine mounting kit and the headers. The engine mount kit (you remove your frame stands completely to install it) is part number 12618HKR and the 1-3/4" long tube headers are part number 2275HKR for painted steel, 2275-1HKR for silver ceramic steel, 2275-3HKR for black ceramic steel and 2275-7HKR for stainless steel. You can also get 1-7/8" long tubes in the same finishes by ordering part numbers 2276HKR, 2276-1HKR, 2276-3HKR and 2276-7HKR respectively.