Wilwood parking brake + hand brake how to?

[Damn True]

Anyone know of an article (pictures a +) explaining how to ditch the foot actuated parking brake and install a hand brake actuating a Wilwood (drum in disk) parking brake?

(68 Camaro)

[ZZ430]

Well, I did the same thing on a 69 using the Lokar handle and cables.

I only have a couple of pics on this computer.

I got the long cables from Lokar and cut them to length. I see now that Summit has them ready to bolt on.

It works pretty good.

89910

89911

[ZZ430]

BTW, if the car is real low in the rear the drive shaft can hit when using a larger diameter shaft...ask me how I know.

[Apogee]

BTW, if the car is real low in the rear the drive shaft can hit when using a larger diameter shaft...ask me how I know.

Good point, but if you raise the tunnel, then problem solved. Alternatively, I've seen some builds where they squeezed the actuator handle between the seat and the door...although I believe the builds I've seen do that were right hand drive applications. I seem to remember there being some OE applications like that as well, but I can't think of one for the life of me.

Tobin
KORE3

[Schwartz Performance]

The C4 vettes were like that Tobin. Probably some other cars too. We did it on a 69 Camaro here.. It had a MCI console with recaro seats and a TigerCage- talk about tight spaces!

-Dale

[dontlifttoshift]

True, Why? Is it to create more foot room? **edit, because roll cage, isn't it?**

The Lokar floor mount handles usually don't have enough leverage to operate the wildwood drums and the tooth count on the ratchet mechanism is too coarse so you end up with not quite engaged and the next tooth requires you to sit on the tunnel and pull with both hands. That may be an exaggeration but it is not far off.

Another issue I have come across with the Lokar style cables is there is no "balance bar" between the two cables so when you are pulling the handle you are operating two separate systems, a left and a right park brake, requiring their own individual adjustment.

All of this can be overcome, we have welded extensions on the actuating arms at the drum and meticulous adjustment can get you even brake application.

Oem handles seem to work better and usually have a balance bar built into the first cable length. I have one here that I robbed from an EVO that looks like it would work well.

The CTSV needed more room in the footwell so they used an electric actuator. They can be bought for around 200 bucks. I haven't used one yet but it seems like the hot ticket.

http://www.controlcables.com/ Can make one piece rear cables to hook up to both drums and then a factory style horseshoe. They also have a neet foot pedal that may package better for you or a pull handle that works much better.

[Damn True]

Excellent information Donny.

Yes, to clear space for foot room and for the roll cage.

I'll have a look at controlcables.com later tonight.

Off to work on the endurance racing car. We have our first race in a week.

[2yellow69]

Porsche 944's had the park brake handle between the door and seat also. I should have looked at it before I sold the car. It seems it didn't take up much space now that I'm thinking about it.

[MrQuick]

I can't stand the Lokar pull. its way too short imo. We use Corvette or F body type.

Or we may start using these just due to less cable routing. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,65217.html