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Red67Mustang
01-25-2014, 05:40 PM
I'm working on plans to expand my home garage in a year or two and am considering the pros/ cons of having a lift. The pros are obvious but main con is in fixing the location of where I work on the car (with one 16' door, sometimes I put the car in the middle to have clearance on all sides, then get 2 cars in when the project is done.)

So, I thought I'd ask here...

How many on this forum have a lift in your home garage? If you have one, what type?

I also need to determine the concrete foundation reqts to get that into the plans now, just in case.

Thx!

raustinss
01-25-2014, 05:58 PM
I don't have one but would if I had the ceiling height, as far as concrete specs...talk to the concrete pros for what you need and if your concerned with a hoist taking up too much room consider one of those 4 post lifts that you can roll around
Ryan Austin

Enzo Damico
01-26-2014, 06:21 AM
89124

vintageracer
01-27-2014, 01:59 PM
I have 2. One 2 post and 1 four post.

IF working on your car is your main reason for a lift buy a 2 post lift. You will need 6 inches of concrete below the posts. Cut your floor if you have to and re-pour the sections with concrete adding re-bar for strength.

If storage, exhaust work and transmission work is your goal a four post is fine. I would recommend bolt this lift to the floor also.

lzdick
01-27-2014, 03:00 PM
I have a Rotary asymmetrical 10,000# unit. Everything that Mike suggested above is true. Depending on your needs the 2-post is far more versatile. If you do go with the 2-post, look into the asymmetrical units. The basic difference is the posts are not parallel to each other allowing you to open a car door without hitting the post; a very nice feature.

Here are a few pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSC_0001-1.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/lzdick/media/Rotary%20Lift/DSC_0001.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSC_0002-1.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/lzdick/media/Rotary%20Lift/DSC_0002.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/01/DSC_0003-1.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/lzdick/media/Rotary%20Lift/DSC_0003.jpg.html)

Winmon
02-17-2014, 08:38 PM
There are no cons to owning a lift :) One of the best purchases I have ever made. After a lot of research I went with a Rotary SPO10 (10k). BendPak was my second choice. As far as the post pads, I dug down about 8" deep (about 3'x 3' square). I believe Rotary says to go 6".

90425

90426

another69
02-18-2014, 03:24 PM
I went with a Bendpak 4 post to make it easier to do alignments & not have to worry about the concrete. Adding a bridge jack makes it damn near as service friendly as a 2 post.

BigDawgDavao
02-19-2014, 01:22 AM
I also have a Bendpak 4 post. Made up some wheels so can wheel it outside for any dirty/dusty stuff. My goal was to minimize bending over and having to get on hands and knees. That is the beauty of a 4 post. Just drive on and lift. No getting down under cars to make sure the posts are aligned with the lifting points. All I would recommend is getting a couple of jack trays (or the air lift ones if you can afford) and an extra bottle jack or 2 and you can do whatever you would ever need to do with a 4 post.

yellow1098Greg
02-25-2014, 12:01 PM
How much ceiling height do you need for the 2 post? And can't you just cut/modify the ceiling? I have a 8 foot ceiling maybe 8.5...thanks guys

lzdick
02-25-2014, 12:49 PM
The Rotary catalog I have shows a minimum of 10' clearance needed on their smallest model. If you are contemplating modifying the ceiling, what is upstairs/above?

My 12' lift (SPOA10 Rotary) has a cylinder that arises 12' 5" and the ceiling is 12' 0". Had to make sure the cylinders were not directly below a 2x10 ceiling joist. They enter the ceiling but do not interfere with the flooring above due to the 2x10 ceiling joists. Works fine.

riles
02-28-2014, 07:31 PM
What are you going to do with the garage door? It's not as simple as just cut/modify the ceiling. A 6" pad is the recommended depth for concrete. Like Mike said, if you intend to store your vehicle to make room to park another vehicle under it, then the 4 post is the way to go.
Nice garage there, Enzo and Winmon.

BMR Sales
03-07-2014, 09:21 AM
I've got a Rotary 4 Post - the Best Thing I've ever bought.

They make Casters for them to Roll, but I didn't like how it felt loose. Mine is Bolted to the Floor.

shmoov69
03-17-2014, 08:18 PM
My new (to me) place has a 4 post and I've never had one before.... WOW!! Freakin awesome!! Should've spent the money on one years ago, even if it wouldn't fit in my other houses!! LoL!

shmoov69
03-17-2014, 08:24 PM
Here is a pic

Well apparently the app won't let me load a pic from my phone. :-(

TheJDMan
08-18-2014, 06:23 PM
I could not have built Dust Off without my Stinger 4 post lift. By dumb luck my garage has a 12ft ceiling which allowed me to buy a taller post lift. A 2 post vs a 4 post lift is a matter of personal preference. I have used both and I prefer the 4 post with jack bridges. Most 4 post lifts can be outfitted with caster wheels so you can move them around as needed. My neighbor can roll his 4 post lift outdoors if he chooses, my garage door is not tall enough. The other advantage of the 4 post lift is that it can set on a standard concrete garage floor without needing any special reinforcement. A four post lift also does not need to be anchored to the floor. We had a 6.8 magnitude earthquake here in VA three or four years ago which did a lot of damage to a lot of buildings. Dust Off was up on the lift 6' in the air when the quake struck. The lift did not appear to have moved it just absorbed the movement and the car was uneffected. I also have installed LED light strips to the lift to light the underside of the car while working on it which could not be done with a 2 post lift.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/liftlight02-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/lift20light-1.jpg

Peter Mc Mahon
08-18-2014, 06:57 PM
Checking the Bendpak site, most of the smaller lifts 10,000lbs and under, recommend only 4" of 3000 psi concrete.

BMR Sales
08-28-2014, 01:54 PM
My Driveway is thicker than 4"

My Garage Floor is 14 Inches (House is 75 Years Old). The Installer went through 3 Drill Bits!

latamud
09-19-2014, 09:31 AM
I work abroad a lot and caught myself spending a lot of money to store cars and parts. Over the years I had spent more than the value of a car. For about 2 months, I had 4 units with 4 cars stored at one time, at $150 a month per unit. I bought my last house 2 years ago, and needed a bigger garage to cut back on storage expenses. I have a 3 car with 3 4 posts. I spent about 1 years worth of storage fees to purchase the lifts so I could fit 6 cars in my garage. They all have removeable casters and moveable. Those are my PRO.

CONS:
I now have to pull cars out of the garage to roll my tool chest out to get tools. I'm constantly shifting things around to get to other things. I don't have room for too many project parts so I ended up storing literally near a ton of parts upstairs in a spare room. AND I still need a 10x20 storage unit to store other car parts, engine hoist, engine stand, extra Cobra IRS units, wheels, tires, doors, and yet another car.



103095

103096

dmastrota
10-10-2014, 06:03 PM
Are you using it to store cars and or just work on them? If both you need a four post to support the suppension and not letting it hang. I have a Back Yard Buddy. In my opinion in is one of the best ones by far. I also have an Eagle, but one of the last American Made ones. There is no comparison at all. To see the two side by side my friends are amazed how much better the Backyard Buddy is, With the car on it, it does not move. Also I have a basement in my garage. I had a structural engineer do the loads and we have a 6 in slab.

hifi875
10-12-2014, 09:32 AM
I just purchased one this summer. A 4 post challenger lift for my 2 car garage w 10ft ceilings. Best purchase I've made. Solves a lot of problems

Goosesdad
10-14-2014, 02:22 PM
I have a BendPak asymmetrical 2 post lift. Quality is mostly good though one of the carriages was welded a little out of level which significantly puts the car out of level. Iíve been working with Bendpak but a full solution is not easy without completely disassembling the lift and replacing the carriage. Install is mostly easy with 2 guys. I complicated it by painting it black with Rust Oleum Hammer Finish but even with that it wasnít bad. Their install instructions are terrible. Iím not one to hire anyone but if I had it to do over again, I would have paid the $750 for a manufacture certified installer as I would have had them on the hook for correcting the mis-welded carriage. BendPak's entire Tech Support team are total losers...fire all of them if I had any say!!......couldnít answer a single question with anything other than canned mumbo jumbo. I ended up having to call my dealer, Garage Equipment Supply, and they hooked me up with the Tech Support supervisor. He is working with me. GES are awesome guys. Also get ready for some electrical modifications with this lift. They provide 14 AWG SO electrical cord for connection between the overhead cut off switch and the motor. That cord is not rated for the 30A circuit necessary and specified in their instructions. As well, the overhead cut off switch they provide is also rated for 15A. In a nutshell both of these are hazard. I ran my own conduit and cable though I did leave the provided switch since changing it would have required totally modifying the switch mounting bracket and frankly even though it is a ďfuseĒ there isnít anything near it that I worry about a fire. Tech support guys didnít understand anything electrical. Operation and the fit/finish is pretty good, no real complaints. I put down 6Ē of 4500 lb concrete while building my shop, worth the piece of mind. Their instructions on vehicle placement are worse than their install instructions. They have a good book with most cars/trucks listed for pad placement though when using their suggestion for my 2010 Tundra, their placement points wonít work. And that is only Ĺ of the equation, the other more difficult part is the placement fore/aft of the vehicle in the lift. Yes, many factors impact this placement that make it difficult for them to get a true location for all cases but something better than ďput it on, lift it up a foot and shake it real goodĒ isnít asking for much IMO. Idiotic answers to serious questions....anger me....especially with so much at risk. Common sense gets tapped a ton here, donít expect any help from Bendpak. All those complaints aside, the functionality is well worth the challenges.

wiedemab
10-14-2014, 05:36 PM
Rotary SPOA10 here....... Love it!

401Spirit
10-14-2014, 09:14 PM
Rotary is only way to go. I have 2 SPOA10 units in my 4 bay home shop. As a long time ASE Master tech I have worked in shops with many brands of lifts and my life is worth more than a cheap lift. Rotary lifts have 2 cylinders and dual lift locks for added safety. It's your ass...you choose.

BMR Sales
10-15-2014, 08:23 AM
Rotary is only way to go. I have 2 SPOA10 units in my 4 bay home shop. As a long time ASE Master tech I have worked in shops with many brands of lifts and my life is worth more than a cheap lift. Rotary lifts have 2 cylinders and dual lift locks for added safety. It's your ass...you choose.

And Made in America!

snappytravis
10-15-2014, 07:33 PM
I sold a few lifts when I was in the tool business. I deal with worth equipment out of texas. One of things that I remember the sales rep telling me about lifts and a lot of other equipment as far as that goes. Shipping weight. If you compare shipping weight of one lift vs another you can see that some of them are built with less steel. It is either in the uprights or in the plate that bolts to the ground. The guys name is Steve at worth equipment. There service is excellent as well. I hope to build a 50x100 shop this next year and plan to install a lift.

yellow1098Greg
10-18-2014, 12:18 PM
Has anyone ever dealt with a single post lift?

Restomod
10-24-2014, 03:12 PM
I have a 9k Bendpak 4 post that I bought the wheel set for it also ...its the best $ I ever spent on shop tools.

dragonfly jones
10-24-2014, 07:38 PM
I went with the Atlashttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/CameraZOOM20140324162320926_zps4928e734-1.jpg (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/MJNewcomb/media/Camaro/CameraZOOM-20140324162320926_zps4928e734.jpg.html)

TheJDMan
12-20-2014, 06:07 PM
Has anyone ever dealt with a single post lift?

When I was in high school back in the early 70's I worked for a Texaco service station (try to find a service station these days) and back then all service stations were equipped with single cylinder lifts. Not only were they hard to work around under the car, they would rotate as the cylinder came up and they had a very primitive safety lock. And god help you if the seal started leaking, stupid expensive to repair. Speaking of stupid expensive, the install required a huge hole in the garage floor probably 8ft to 10ft deep in order to bury the cylinder housing. With the introduction of the 2 post and 4 post lifts the single post rapidly became obsolete. I have not seen one in a new construction shop in many many years and to be honest I would bet they are not even legal anymore.

slowcpe
12-21-2014, 01:14 PM
I want one bad but having the boat in the garage really hinders the layout for one. I've about decided if I don't use the boat any more this summer then I have in the past 2 years, im selling it and installing a lift in that bay.

mitchs66
01-20-2015, 05:25 PM
My dad bought his 9000lb 2 post Mohawk 25 years ago, still working strong. Last year I bought a used 10,000lb 2 post Mohawk (a few small changes from dads, but feels like using the same hoist). Made in the good old USA and very good quality.

BonzoHansen
01-20-2015, 07:47 PM
IMO after working seven years in a shop with a variety of lift types, a two post is best for working on cars.

I wish I had the room, but my garage isn't really big enough. About 25x22, a hair over 10' for clearance. I could do a lift, but it would be tight. I have a post in the middle that pisses me off everyday that I plan on getting rid of this summer and install an lvl beam. A lift would just be another damn post, and I wouldn't be able to stand under the car anyway.

I have been kicking around buying a quick jack setup. http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-5000.aspx

yellow1098Greg
01-29-2015, 07:35 AM
What are the prices have you guys paid for the different brands? Just trying to get a feel of which brand charges what to help with figuring out what's what so to speak....thanks!

dhutton
01-29-2015, 10:10 AM
I have three lifts I purchased from Derek Weaver in Fort Worth Texas. Prices are on their website. They seem to have better testing and approvals than some other lifts.

Don

jlwdvm
01-29-2015, 12:19 PM
108308I have a 2-post and 4-post in my 3 car garage. Most of my work gets done on my 2-post. Both are Direct Lift. Customer service/tech has been excellent. I installed both of them by myself with their directions and a few videos on youtube.

mitchs66
02-01-2015, 05:10 PM
I priced a new Mohawk 10,000lb for $5800.00, installed before I found my used Mohawk 10,000lb. I bought it at an auction for $3,700 and took it down and installed it my self. I know you can buy different brands cheaper but my personal opinion is that they are one of the best on the market.

joshtownsend
02-16-2015, 10:46 AM
If you have a garage.. not a shop, 4 post is the only way to go.. get the caster set.. and move it whenever you need it, then move it back when you don't. You don't have to bolt anything down...and it take literally 5 mins to move it with one person.. I been doing it this way for right at 10 years..and its the best money spent on any tool.. I pull/drop motors out, do brakes.. i even clean my car with them..

10 ft ceiling is a much .. that way you can have the car full lifted and walk under it and work without hurting your back.

here is a few pics of using the lift for work, storage and evening moving it outside to drop the motor in my Ferrari.. perfectly safe..althoguht it doesn't look like it..

GRNOVA
02-16-2015, 10:08 PM
I like mine because when it's not in use its flat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/DSCN1492-1.jpg (http://s300.photobucket.com/user/tnt342/media/65%20nova/DSCN1492.jpg.html)

dhutton
02-17-2015, 05:25 AM
If you have a garage.. not a shop, 4 post is the only way to go.. get the caster set.. and move it whenever you need it, then move it back when you don't. You don't have to bolt anything down...and it take literally 5 mins to move it with one person.. I been doing it this way for right at 10 years..and its the best money spent on any tool.. I pull/drop motors out, do brakes.. i even clean my car with them..

10 ft ceiling is a much .. that way you can have the car full lifted and walk under it and work without hurting your back.

here is a few pics of using the lift for work, storage and evening moving it outside to drop the motor in my Ferrari.. perfectly safe..althoguht it doesn't look like it..

Wow....

FirebirdSteve
02-17-2015, 08:47 PM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/02/DSC_0112-1.jpg (http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/westcansteve/media/DSC_0112.jpg.html)


Danmar 4 post...

shmoov69
02-22-2015, 01:45 PM
Finally got the only pic to upload. I was happy to be getting the engine together. The lift is awesome!! Although I had to weld a "pull point" bracket on the front to drag a non running car on, works quite well!

FANTM58
02-28-2015, 07:42 PM
Check Craig's List
There on there all the time used .

68 SuperRam
03-09-2015, 05:21 PM
Looking to put in a home garage lift - any recommendations?

Any preference of 4 posts (ramps) over 2 posts lifts?

Thanks

hogpowr
03-09-2015, 05:59 PM
best money I ever spent!! even better than nitrous!! :) I bought a two post. rated for 9000 pounds. When I finally saved enough to build a separate shop, I built it with enough height to put my 2 post in. good luck with decision. You won't regret it!!

dragonfly jones
03-09-2015, 06:02 PM
Love my 2 post. Cant believe I went so long without it. Atlas 11K
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/CameraZOOM20140324162320926_zps4928e734-1.jpg (http://s215.photobucket.com/user/MJNewcomb/media/Camaro/CameraZOOM-20140324162320926_zps4928e734.jpg.html)

TheParker
03-09-2015, 07:31 PM
2 post is the way to go.

ChevelleNV
03-09-2015, 08:11 PM
If you want portability, look at the MaxJax lift. I have had one for a few years and it has been a great lift. it does have some pro and cons though.... it only goes up 4 feet so you need to get under the car on a roller chair, easily moveable, you can have multiple lift locations in your shop and 1 man can move the lift in 10-15 minutes. and can even be put in a corner for storage to make more room in the shop

sheck44
03-10-2015, 02:44 AM
Agree with above statement .. 'best $$ I've ever spent'

2 post all the way

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/Moto20Floor_zpspdbsgrky-1.jpg (http://s264.photobucket.com/user/SCOBRA48/media/WAAAY%20OTT/Moto%20Floor_zpspdbsgrky.jpg.html)

Rick Dorion
03-10-2015, 03:34 AM
I have had a 4 post for the past 20 years and love it. With a hydraulic center jack I can do anything except lift a body off frame which isn't an issue for me.

68 SuperRam
03-10-2015, 05:43 AM
Thanks can anyone recommend a manufacturer or vendor? Would like to put my Camaro up and my daily driver under it. What is the best height my garage should be?

BMR Sales
03-10-2015, 06:55 AM
I've had a Rotary Revolution 7 for close to 10 Years. It's a 4 Post, with a Jack Bridge & Aluminum Ramps

I chose Rotary because;
#1 - it was Made in the USA
#2 - Rotary's are in most New Car Dealership, so Service is available locally (even though I have never needed it)
#3 - Kind of related to #2 - Parts Availability (if needed). If you buy a Chinese Lift and something breaks, good luck ever getting a part!
#4 - The Local Rotary Crew brought it to my House and Installed it. This was Key, as if you buy most any other Brand it will come Truck Freight to a local Terminal, then you have to get it Transported to your house. Then you have to Buy a bunch of Beer and your Drunk friends get to put something together that you will work under and store your beauty on!

Rick Dorion
03-10-2015, 09:06 AM
I have 10' ceilings and get by. 12' would be ideal. Mine was delivered to my door in a freight truck. 4 of us unloaded and had it together in about 4 hours. The heaviest part was the side that also contained the hydraulic cylinder.

dhutton
03-10-2015, 09:19 AM
Thanks can anyone recommend a manufacturer or vendor? Would like to put my Camaro up and my daily driver under it. What is the best height my garage should be?

If you are looking for storage I would go with a 4 post. 2 post lifts aren't really intended for storage in my opinion. I have two and four post lifts made by Direct and they are decent for the money and have better certifications than most. They are made in China but that is irrelevant to me. Don't let internet legends mislead you. Derek Weaver sells them direct and on eBay. Good folks to deal with.

Don

xavier296
03-10-2015, 09:20 AM
2 post here. In a 12.5' ceiling regular 3 car garage. Use it for storing a vehicle, and have done three separate body offs in 2 years. I went bendpac 10k lbs after looking at my options at SEMA. Whatever you do, buy a well known old brand, and not some offbrand chinese lift to save a few bucks. My buddy can't get any replacement parts for his chinese lift, and it is only 5 years old.

If storage is your only use, go 4 post. But if you work on your cars regularly, a 2 post is more useful IMO.

I don't know how I am going to live without it when the Navy makes me move.

MonzaRacer
03-11-2015, 03:00 PM
If money is no object go Rotarty, if you have a budget look at Atlas. My boss put on in our Midas shop and so far its been awesome.
And they only cost $2500 pretty cool. At least in my opinion.
Solid well made and economical. I love Rotary but $5k for a lift,,,,, out of my price range.

parsonsj
03-11-2015, 06:06 PM
Mohawk is the best, but has a price to match. It uses hydraulic lines rather than a chain or cable between the posts, and has an enormous post footprint (a good thing in a residential garage that may not have 6" concrete floors). 12' ceilings are a must if you want to stand up under the car.

http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consumer/automotive-lifts/2-post-lifts/a7/

1965gp
03-11-2015, 10:08 PM
I bought two direct 4 posts from Derek Weaver in Dallas. No complaints at all and it's been a couple years. Actually planning on buying two more.

As others have said- 2 post is more efficient for work, 4 post is better for storage.

I will say that the lift is a little narrow- haven't had any problems but when I put the General Lee on it I wouldn't mind an extra 6" on each side.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/ac3a6581729fa6a1e39150460cedb012-1.jpg

partsguy57
03-12-2015, 09:12 PM
I went with a bend pac xpr10a. Love it! The only regret you will have is not doing it sooner. I enjoy working under the car more then above.

T_Raven
03-12-2015, 09:41 PM
x2 on the Bendpack. I've used Rotary lifts in every shop I've worked for. I did a lot of research before deciding on the Bendpack.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/IMG_20131017_210729_424_zpsed0ef588-1.jpg (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/stokesdope/media/House/IMG_20131017_210729_424_zpsed0ef588.jpg.html)

vintageracer
03-13-2015, 06:20 AM
ALL of the lifts mentioned are good.

If you don't believe it just ask the guy who owns one!

Having said that do your own research and buy the lift YOU like that fits your needs and budget.

As said in a previous post the 2 post lifts are the BEST for working on your car and yes you can store a car on one. The four post is BEST if vehicle storage is your primary need and yes you can work on a car with one it's just not near as easy or convenient. I have a 2 post and a 4 post lift in my home shop.

IF "I" had to have only ONE lift it would a 2 post lift without question!

03-13-2015, 08:14 AM
4-posts for the win!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/Multilevel_stack_parking_NYC_07_2010_958-1.jpg

ChevelleNV
03-13-2015, 09:21 AM
4-posts for the win!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/Multilevel_stack_parking_NYC_07_2010_958-1.jpg

That's more like 22 post for the win... Ill take 2 of em

hifi875
03-13-2015, 10:18 AM
Mine is a quality lift made by challenger. it has wider ramps but the post are tighter so it doesnt take up as much with in my garage.

TheJDMan
03-13-2015, 11:22 AM
I have owned my Stinger 4 post lift for close to 20 years made in the USA. In that time the only problem I have had is the lift cylinder packing started leaking. $15 worth of O-rings and backup rings, problem solved. http://www.stingerlifts.com/

Stupidnewbie
03-15-2015, 12:07 AM
I'm interested in this lift, as it would work well for my garage. Does anyone have experience and/or opinions? Found it for $2500 online.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/E_MobileMan_01_272x274-1.png

vintageracer
03-15-2015, 01:13 PM
we have discussed this subject before in the garage section.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/104624-how-many-with-a-lift


many times!

Restomod
03-16-2015, 07:14 AM
I have a Benpak 4 post and i love it. I guess 2 or 4 post comes down to the ammount of room or layout of your shop. For me a 2 post would have taken up most of my shop.

woodside783
03-20-2015, 09:56 AM
I have 10' ceilings and get by. 12' would be ideal. Mine was delivered to my door in a freight truck. 4 of us unloaded and had it together in about 4 hours. The heaviest part was the side that also contained the hydraulic cylinder.

how thick dose the floor need to be for this brand?

TheJDMan
08-07-2015, 07:16 PM
how thick dose the floor need to be for this brand?

Since no one has answered, a four post lift can be used on any standard 4" to 6" thick concrete garage floor with no special requirements and most can be outfitted with caster wheels so they can be moved around easily. A two post lift will require dedicated concrete mounting pads that include anchor bolts in the floor to bolt it to. Once a two post is installed it cannot be moved. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs.

MonzaRacer
09-03-2015, 12:54 PM
Here is where the previous Midas I worked in got a PV9P
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/

While its not necessarily American made they are definitely well built and seem to be rated lifts. The drive on alignment racks pretty good too.

BMR Sales
09-03-2015, 01:10 PM
Since no one has answered, a four post lift can be used on any standard 4" thick concrete garage floor with no special requirements and most can be outfitted with caster wheels so they can be moved around easily. A two post lift will require dedicated concrete mounting pads that include anchor bolts in the floor to bolt it to. Once a two post is installed it cannot be moved. There are advantages and disadvantages to both designs.

I would say that you want Thicker than 4". To me 4" is sidewalk depth, not something you want your car or lift sitting on. I was stuck with what I had (Fourteen, yes 14" thick Slab), so I have anchor Bolts.

Yes Castor Kits are available, but I don't like them

andrewb70
09-03-2015, 03:06 PM
I merged the threads to keep it tidy around here...

Andrew

67 455 Bird ragtop
02-01-2016, 05:48 AM
89124

Gotta love the disco ball .. LOL

BMR Sales
02-03-2016, 10:00 AM
4-posts for the win!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/03/Multilevel_stack_parking_NYC_07_2010_958-1.jpg

Indoors at Canepa

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/TractionControl/media/TractionControl001/4289a9e7c3bbea8718dfa916fc0191b7_zpsdmxuswhl.jpg.h tml)

yellow1098Greg
07-11-2016, 06:44 AM
I just installed a maxjax lift in my small garage and it's pretty darn cool. I still need to bleed the system as it comes up slightly shaky and uneven with nothing on it, but not by much at all. It's actually pretty dam good for a first setup. I know that a full size lift is much better but as you can see this is the best I'm going to do with my garage. If you guys have any info on how to get the system bled and solid that would be great!

The main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity on our cars? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help! Any pics would be wonderful.

Another important question I had was...I used 5 redhead 3/4 5.5 inches wedge anchor bolts...I have tightened them as hard as I can and when I put the weight of the car on the lift and set it back down... the nuts are loose again...is that the bolts are flexing with the weight of the car? Just wanna make sure it's safe before I get under it. I actually asked head this question and they replayed with this...what do you guys think? I'm not so sure........

"That will pretension the sleeve and bolt. The bolt has bell that pushes out on the sleeve which wedges the anchor in the concrete. The weight has pulled the bolt into the sleeve further which is good as it is wedged even more. The more stress on the bolt the more it wedges. Just retighten the bolts and you will be good to go"

Thanks for your help! Just wanna be as safe as possible...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/imagejpg1_zpsx6swsffk-1.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/moreira1/media/image.jpg1_zpsx6swsffk.jpg.html)

z28orshoot
07-11-2016, 10:51 PM
If you do a lot of tire and suspension stuff then the by far the 2 post. However, if its mostly for storage, cleaning and oil change type maintenance then 4 post will work. An easy way to solve these problems is to buy both. I have both (10k asymmetric and 12k alignment at the house) and my 2 post gets used more for actual work, and the 4 post is quick checks,exhaust, chassis setup etc. Both can be used for most all work but i find it easier when you dont have the runways in the way for some jobs.

Biggest concern in slab thickness. If you are not sure, then cut and re pour the mounting pads.

Be sure you invest in several (3-4+) under hoist stands if you get a 2 post. Everything is easier standing up then laying on your back.

There is no cons to owning a lift other than the money spend on mods or other cars to put on the lift. Oh yeah, you will find that friends congregate at your shop when you have a lift for simple work.........

SonomaZ
08-28-2016, 01:44 PM
Purchased a Bendpak 4-post within the last year and I have no idea how I managed without one for the last 15.
I did the LED strip lighting similar to the poster on page 1 and also have duplex outlets mounted on either end for easy electrical access and less dangling cords from battery chargers and such.

I'm sure a 2-post might be better for some things, but so far I've been able to do "wheels-off" work with a couple sliding platforms, bottle jacks and stands.

**edit**
Referenced poster with LED lights has a dedicated thread on the subject: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/113466-4-Post-Lift-Lights
Thanks TheJDMan for a great idea!!

MTZ28
10-25-2016, 08:18 AM
I went with a 2 post Challenger CL10V3. I decided to go with the challenger because of the arm configuration. They're a 3 stage design, so it can be an asymmetric lift for lighter vehicles and a symmetric lift for heavy vehicles. My vote will always go towards a two post for working on cars, if the room is available. I've worked on four post lifts and find them ackward for anything other than routine maintenance, but I hope to have one in the future for storage purposes. However, any lift is better than no lift, as long as it's a safe one.

In the pic, you'll see I have my camaro backed into the lift. With the 3 stage arm, you can be very flexible with car placement. Keeping in mind that the center of gravity changes when a car is in various phases of the build. (The wiring is temporary, just couldn't wait to try it)

Not trying to be an advertisement for this lift. I just never saw one like this before and I really like it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/imagejpg2_zpsfiix5h6o-1.jpg (http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/clneufeld/media/Camaro/image.jpg2_zpsfiix5h6o.jpg.html)

Bygblok
12-15-2016, 09:40 AM
I just installed a maxjax lift in my small garage and it's pretty darn cool. I still need to bleed the system as it comes up slightly shaky and uneven with nothing on it, but not by much at all. It's actually pretty dam good for a first setup. I know that a full size lift is much better but as you can see this is the best I'm going to do with my garage. If you guys have any info on how to get the system bled and solid that would be great!

The main question I have is what are the best lifting points for my 77 TA? I was thinking the back of the front frame and the front of the rear subframe. That is always where I have put my jack stands in the past but I know this is a slightly different situation. What is the center of gravity on our cars? As I know they are slightly front heavy. Thank so much for your input and help! Any pics would be wonderful.

Another important question I had was...I used 5 redhead 3/4 5.5 inches wedge anchor bolts...I have tightened them as hard as I can and when I put the weight of the car on the lift and set it back down... the nuts are loose again...is that the bolts are flexing with the weight of the car? Just wanna make sure it's safe before I get under it. I actually asked head this question and they replayed with this...what do you guys think? I'm not so sure........

"That will pretension the sleeve and bolt. The bolt has bell that pushes out on the sleeve which wedges the anchor in the concrete. The weight has pulled the bolt into the sleeve further which is good as it is wedged even more. The more stress on the bolt the more it wedges. Just retighten the bolts and you will be good to go"

Thanks for your help! Just wanna be as safe as possible...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/imagejpg1_zpsx6swsffk-1.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/moreira1/media/image.jpg1_zpsx6swsffk.jpg.html)

how do you like the maxjax setup so far? I'm considering doing the same thing and it only says you need 4" of concrete @3,000psi tensil strength and that's what my new shop was poured at. I'll have 10ft ceilings in the shop but don't want to put my car's roof in the sheetrock up top! I like the maxjax due to it being portable so if I'm not using it I can still have my whole shop open for door swings etc. The shop is a 30x30.

yellow1098Greg
12-16-2016, 08:54 AM
I love my maxjax for the size of my garage....the 4" of concrete will work just fine....it being portable is a great feature but mine isn't setup that way as I didn't use the threaded sleeve type of anchors...I just used the concrete wedge style which are pretty permanent. The only thing I'm looking for now are some adjustable lift pads to accommodate my subframe connectors

gator68428
12-16-2016, 09:16 PM
I have the Max Jax in my two car 8.5' ceiling garage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/MaxJax_zps69fntsh3-1.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/mitch_mac1/media/MaxJax_zps69fntsh3.jpg.html)

My Dad has three 4-posts.
After using the two post, Ideally you'd have at least one of each depending on what maintenance task you're performing.

HandOverFist
12-17-2016, 06:35 PM
Two post sure made a difference to this old body...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/lights2020wiring20011_zpseldvaitf-1.jpg

TerryD
12-17-2016, 07:34 PM
Bendpak 2 post. BEST $2500 I ever spent!

Bygblok
12-17-2016, 08:25 PM
I'd love a two-post but I think my ceilings are only a shade over 10ft which limits my vertical space. I also really like the portable aspect of the maxjax setup. It would be nice to have that area open when you don't need a lift. It sure will be nice to have the 30x30 shop though......lift or not!

yellow1098Greg
12-24-2016, 08:46 PM
One question I have is ...I just installed subframe connectors on my 77 TA...I'v been lifting the car happily with my maxjax for awhile now .... But now with the connectors on ...there is about a 2 inch differance in where the front arms will make contact with the body and where the rear will contact the connectors as that will have to be my new lift point....what is the proper way I should lift the car with this issue? Obviously a spacer on the front arms but do they sell these? Is there something I should use or make? Thanks!

HandOverFist
12-24-2016, 09:06 PM
One question I have is ...I just installed subframe connectors on my 77 TA...I'v been lifting the car happily with my maxjax for awhile now .... But now with the connectors on ...there is about a 2 inch differance in where the front arms will make contact with the body and where the rear will contact the connectors as that will have to be my new lift point....what is the proper way I should lift the car with this issue? Obviously a spacer on the front arms but do they sell these? Is there something I should use or make? Thanks!

Most have threaded/adjustable pads on the arms...there are adapters usually available for extreme instances. See image above.

foraye
11-11-2019, 01:34 PM
Getting her off the trailer...solo!. Its a 800 LB. Atlas. purchased in 2009 from Greg Smith Lifts, Home Garage/Non Industrial.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/48822968101_47864bb2c8_c-1.jpg

All setup...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/48828917203_c274787ba1_c-1.jpg

Still going strong 10 years later...:yeah:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/48823159528_f3cb7eec0d_c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/48829454792_e224b1f31a_c-1.jpg