Need input on 434 small block ideas

[streetk14]

I will be putting a new engine in my '68 camaro soon, and have been throwing around a number of different ideas. I'm pretty into building a 434 small block. I really like how simple and clean it will look, but put out brutal power. I'd like it to put out no less than 550 hp and that much torque as well. I also don't want to have to rev it much past 6000 rpm to do so. I want to use a hydraulic roller cam and a carburetor (for now). My questions are about cam and cylinder head selection.
Heads: I'm an AFR fan, and have a set of their 195cc street heads. I don't think they are capable of supporting the 434, and I have been looking at their 210 cc competition ported heads. They do make bigger heads (220 & 227), but I don't want to go overboard and sacrifice torque. However, I want a head that is capable of supporting 600 hp or so if I feel the need to throw in a big solid roller later on. Any thoughts?

Camshaft: Like I said, I want a hydraulic roller for now. I'm not too sure on sizing one for this big-inch small block. I have an Xtreme energy 294HR (242/248, 540/562) in the 360ci motor in my car now. Peak power comes in around 6200 rpm. The thing has very little vacuum, but is pretty driveable with my trans/gearing. How would this same cam act in a 434ci motor? I would think that the extra 74 cubes would mellow it out a bit. I would like to be able to run power brakes with this motor.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks,
Andy

[Lowend]

Ok some random thoughts on a 434
1) don't use a factory 400 block, they flex too much and after all of the clearancing and filling they cost about the same as a World Sportsman block (which is MUCH tougher and can be had with 350 mains).

2) I agree the 210's are the best choice for a head, I suggest getting the CNC ported versions. Make sure when you order you tell the salesmen your cam specs and that you are going Hyd-roller. The 210's usually come with Solid Roller spec'd springs and will eat a Hyd roller cam alive.

3) Just bite the bullet and get a small base cirlce cam off the bat... It only costs an extra $25 or so. Just pony up and don't screw around.

4) I like your cam specs, I would consider going a little bigger, perhaps to a 250@050 as the long stroke of a 434 will take a lot of cam and still behave on the street.

5) With a cam that big I would use a rev-kit. As luck would have it AFR makes the only hyd roller one I know of, so order it at the same time.

6) becareful with your chamber size, with a 4" stroke you will have very high compression. Do the math early on

[chicane67]

I totally agree........

210's, small base circle and a real block. The few extra dollars now will save you lots of money and headaches later.

[streetk14]

Thanks guys, I thought I was on the right track. To answer your questions, yes I will be using a Motown block, I was looking at the CNC competition ported AFR's (w/ 76cc chambers to keep the compression in check), and I will be using a small-base circle cam. I am planning to have Shafiroff build me a short block, so I'll let them install the cam and deal with the clearance issues. Lowend, I think you are right; it should be able to take a little more cam and still be a better street motor than what I have now. I don't have a rev-kit now and my motor pulls hard right up to 6500 rpm, but I think it would be a wise investment considering the $$$ I'll have in this motor.

[Kenova]

Check out October's Hot Rod. They have an article on a 427 small block Ford (Windsor). Power hit 550 with similar torque. The cam was into the 250s for duration. :scared:
If you are buying an aftermarket block, go for a raised camshaft location and big block cam bearings. This way you will not have any worries about clearence, and the cam won't be weakened with a reduced base circle. I know I would like the extra measure of reliability in a street engine, no matter how small. I'm sure Shafiroff has delt with similar setups, so it shouldn't be much of a hassle.
Something else to consider is the 9.325" deck height with longer rods and a taller compression height (wrist pin to deck). This would also contribute (slightly) to the reliability of your engine, but can be a real pain-in-the-ass :hammer: when it comes to intake and header fitment.
I'm a big AFR fan myself :worship: and think you are headed (no pun intended) in the right direction. I agree with Lowend, spend the extra money and go for the full CNC option. Buy them without the valve springs. It is probably best to buy the springs from the same company you buy your cam from. When the time comes to sell the 195s, drop me a line. Maybe we can make a deal. :naughty:
Ken