68 Firebird - Build My Way - UnProEverything

[FireBeater]

Hi Crew,

Long time reader of Pro-Touring.com and now it is my turn. I have learned a lot on this site for my ride. What to do and what NOT to do, what style I like and what I do not like. I like that there are some rust buckets (like mine) and some really pro stuff on this site. Seems that everybody just wants to enjoy cars and I like that!

Well, I started working on cars in JR High and my first car back in the 90's was a 1968 Firebird. I am proud to say I still have that rust bucket. I drove it in High school, killed the 400 in it, put in an awesome 389, killed it and put in another 400 and it died too. They were all used engines but were fun. I parked the car at my parents when I went to college, then got married and after finishing my masters degree brought it home. As you see here, it needed LOTS of attention. It did not run but did have lots of RUST. I am in FL so the wet environment brings rust.

This is my journey and it is going to be built my way (slow and on a budget). I brought the car home back in 2005, shortly after bringing it home my wife delivered our first child, so it sat for more time. As my daughter got older I worked on it more. Well, one kid was fun, so lets add to the mix, we had another child and then slowly worked on it more. Made what I consider good progress, got it running and got wheels and then we had our last kid in spring of 2013. Not much progress until this past Christmas when I did more work, I am looking forward to this next stage to finish up a few things and get it out on the road.

These pictures are of it back in 1999 and when I brought it home in 2005. I will post some of the work I did since I brought it home.
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[Buryingthesun]

Looks like you have some work ahead of you!

I will be following this, please update often ;)

[FireBeater]

Hey Buryingthesun, I like your ride. I have followed it for about a year. Keep up the work and I will post more progress soon on my car.

[FireBeater]

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So this is another beauty shot of rust when I brought it home and a cool pic of the original dash sticker.

[FireBeater]

So a while back I set out to get it running. When I brought it home it had a 400 that was freshly built ( fresh is relative since years had passed). I bought it off my brother put in in while I was in college home for breaks, but it had been sitting for a few years. The carb needed a rebuild, the fuel sending filter was mush inside the tank, so I replaced it and swapped in some new plugs and it started up.

It has a electrical fuel pump. The engine was not pretty so I set out to clean it up and paint it along with the engine bay.

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[FireBeater]

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So those of you that want to use a TH400 in your first Gen and use an original dip stick tube, you will have to look hard. This is what it looks like, check out the multiple bends.

After getting the car running it liked to smoke, and that was not good with me or with the wife. I set out to stop the leaks.

I tried to find a good dip stick and due to the bends, I ended up putting in a braided hose, like a Lokar. It now looks good and the leaks is gone. Next I replaced the trans filter, and gasket. I moved to the valve cover gaskets.

I learned this trick somewhere. I used RTV and clothe pins to keep it in place while it dried. It worked awesome. I have had the valve covers off a few times and each time I put it back on, no leaks. I took them off to adjust the valve lash. I also picked up some chrome valve covers, because you know they make you go faster.... :drive1:

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[FireBeater]

ok, So I had the car running, but not stopping. I grabbed some front discs from my Dads when I brought it home. Not pretty but it was a start. I can say that it was a PIA to get the spindles to seperate from the ball joints. Well the car is 45 years old. I broke the pickle fork and the actual ball joint seperator from Harbor Freight.

I used the old threaded rod to hold the control arms and springs together while I swapped out the spindles.

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[FireBeater]

I know the rotors are ugly, but back then it was to get it rolling and stopping. The replacements are on the way. I also had to replace the master cylinder and in the back where the hard line meets the rubber hose, the pee bend was rusted along with the rubber hose was fully blocked. That all got replaced.

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After making progress to running and mostly stopping, I made a purchase to keep the encouragement going. I sold many old parts and picked up some wheels a few years back. I had a full miss match of wheels, and wanted to step up to 18's.

[FireBeater]

I read all the pages and sites about what fits and what does not. I found some good affordable wheels and got them on the car.

Ridler 695 18x8 Front
Ridler 695 18x9.5 Back

The car looks totally different from the day I brought it home with the new wheels. My wife could see some of the vision I was going for.

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This is a big lesson. Yes 18's will fit, but each car is different, I rubbed the passenger side front wheel when turning right. Well that was the next project.

[FireBeater]

I had lots of rust as mentioned. I did not want to do rust repair on the front panels, so I opted to buy front panels.

I picked up L/R Front fenders, L/R front lower side panels and front lower valance. More on that to come.

Well again the car is 45 yrs old and bolts do not come off right away. While replacing the front end pieces I broke a bolt off, ok, 2 bolts off. No big deal but they were in the body tub. I then broke off the darn drill in the bolt I was working to back out. That was a good lessen about tools. I bought two different cheep drill bits and back out sets, both broke. I then spent some money and bought quality set and was able to complete the job.


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[FireBeater]

So I mentioned I ripped off the front end and purchased new front end parts. I might as well clean the front end and make things look good.

I cleaned and painted the firewall.

I had my little helper clean the underside of the hood.

I cleaned and painted the inner fender wells.

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And I did some test painting on the new body panels that I picked up.

I have since realized that I need a much higher quality spray gun and paint.

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[Buryingthesun]

So many updates!

Thank you for checking my build, no one ever comments they just seem to be looking

[FireBeater]

alright so more progress,

I put my ride back together (front panels, etc) and I am glad to see it in one piece for now. Nicer wheels, and nicer paint and front clean engine bay.

When people ask to see pictures or I show it off, I like to show the front, well simply because it looks better. So you can see what I have come from and where I stand.


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front half is a start and well back half needs a little work.

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I used original color paint for the engine. Still a few more touch ups but better then it was by a long mile.

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:yeah:

[FireBeater]

Next I am going to dive into the suspension. Having 45yr old suspension is not cool!

I plan on rebuilding the front and the rear. I have some ideas.

Also, I plan on adding discs to the rear. I would like to stop you know!

[jazz]

Good job, keep going it always takes longer then you think. I work on my car and never seem to see progress, then one day it all starts coming together.

[FireBeater]

I tell people that this is just the first phase build, later on when I have more money for the car, I will go into phase II. At that time it would be way more professional.

So with this phase, I am making it a car that I can have fun, enjoy and do some increased cornering. When this thing was built in 1968 the technology was not like it is today.

So I am going to update the body mounts. I am set on Energy Suspension for now. I want a firm ride but not a hard ride. I will not be doing weekly autocross any time soon.

[zzfranczz]

Nice work on the build. I understand exactly what you are saying about the extended phase 1. I have the same philosophy about my build. I am trying to just get it running and have it a fun driver, then phase 2.

[FireBeater]

So I am going to order some new suspension parts. I would love to do some wild upgrades. But for starters I am going to go with the Hotchkiss TVS. This is pretty awesome!!! I have see the red 1968 Hotchkis Camaro and it can kick butt.

Also I am going with Global West upper control arms and lower control arm bushings from Global West.

I will keep you posted..

[Guyt699]

Looking good. It is nice to have a little helper also! My little helper is 3 and loves our black truck and Smokey and the Bandit. What else could you ask for!

[rohrt]

subscribing

[blade]

Nice ride, looks like you are starting to make good progress!

[FireBeater]

Looking good. It is nice to have a little helper also! My little helper is 3 and loves our black truck and Smokey and the Bandit. What else could you ask for!

I helped my dad work on the family cars all the time when I was young. I was in JR High my older brother picked up a 1969 Firebird, which started the car craze. I guess I was a little helper and I love having 3 little helpers.

[FireBeater]

Thanks for the kind note. I agree the car is making some progress. I hope to make some more coming up ( suspension, brakes, etc)

[FireBeater]

Nice ride, looks like you are starting to make good progress!


Thanks for the kind note. I agree the car is making some progress. I hope to make some more coming up ( suspension, brakes, etc)

[FireBeater]

Has Any used an Arduino board to make a digital dash? In combination with an Android device for a digital gauge display?

[FireBeater]

Hey guys, I picked up some new Energy Suspension front body mounts. This is a comparison of the old (yuck) and the new. This mount is the one directly under the firewall.


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out with the old and in with the new.

[FireBeater]

I had time to start taking the front end apart. I got the shocks, sway bar, springs and LCA off. I had trouble with the LCA, I think the car had been hit before. I saw some carnage around the bolt holes that will need to be re-welded and fixed. This is my after shot once all of it has been removed. Still need to clean it up!

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[FireBeater]

Hey Gang,

As stated, I ripped out the front end and cleaned it up and got in my new front suspension parts. I recvd my Hotchkis TVS and also Global West UCA and LCA bushings.

My brother in law brought over his MAC Tools bushing press. This was a charm!! I have read so many times that it is a pain in the a$$ to change out the control arm bushings. I did it two ways. I first drilled out the rubbers on one side and the other side I left in the rubbers. When using this MAC Tools Bushing press, I recommend not drilling out the rubbers. The Tool had more "meat" to grab and push with the rubbers in the bushing. In all, I spent about 2 hours changing out the bushings from the old junk and pressing in the new Global West bushings. Of that time I spent .5 hours drilling out the bushings and then 45 minutes on getting those bushing housings out. The other side I spent about 15 minutes to press out and press in. That tool was soooo awesome. It was strong and sturdy. I was going to pay some shop to press out and press in the bushings for $80 but did not have too. Thanks so my brother in-law. Thanks man.

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Awesome Tool!

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Also installed new Moog lower ball joints. I hear they are good, but I have not used them. I will keep you posted on how they work out. I just pressed them in using the MAC Tool. I have seen guys do a tack weld on the LBJ but did not want to. We will see what happens.

This is the LCA with new parts installed.

[FireBeater]

Ok, So This is just cool to me. I do not have the measurements on hand but it can clearly be seen here.

I have the old and new UCA in this picture. The Global West has shifted the position to increase the footing of the tire to increase the handling of the car.

You can see the angle difference between the stock and the new LCA.

This shift moves the spindle back further.

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I can not wait to drive this thing and feel the difference.

[FireBeater]

out with the old skinny and in with the new beefy sway bar

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[68400BIRD]

Before you try putting in the lower control arms that did not want to come out. Try this little trick that I found on one of my frequented car sites. Get some all thread rod with some washers and nuts. Insert the threaded rod through one side and start installing washer/nut/nut/washer so the rod is sticking out both sides. Then tighten the nuts out with the washers making contact inside of the control arm frame mounting points. Spread the frame out a little so your newly painted control arms slide right in.

[FireBeater]

that is a great idea! I have already installed the lowers control arms just the other day. I will remember that for next time. The LCA did not go in like I wanted, more work than suspected. I did put a little greasy on the bushings that touch the frame and that helped enough to slide in.

[FireBeater]

I got the front end back together.

Global West UCA

Hotchkis 2 inch drop sport springs

Hotchkis TVS Sway bar

Global West LCA bushings

KYB Front shocks

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yes, I still need new rotors... :attn:

[FireBeater]

Speaking of rotors, I read recently that Drilled and Slotted rotors are louder then stock. Anybody heard of this before? I still plan on D/S rotors but want to be prepared for any additional noise

[rustomatic]

I had a '68 Firebird about 20 years ago--it was a fun car, and had way too much motor (hotrodded 400) for me at the time. One hysterical moment was getting the throttle stuck in the middle of a city block after doing what was intended to be a short burnout: wrong. At any rate, you're smart in going for stages, rather than the whole "perfect" thing at once. I've been working on my Falcon since 2010 (bought it after it sat in someone's driveway for 10 years), and since then, it's had three engines, three transmissions, and 2.75 or so suspensions. The third motor (new!) has to come back out now, due to a bad pilot bearing--the evolution has been fun, but a breather is needed now and then. This is why it's great to be able to flog the snot out of the car during/between stages. Try to control the obsession...

[rustomatic]

If you hammer the brakes with drilled rotors, they will buzz; granted, I've only had them on motorcycles and mountain bikes. Slotted only doesn't seem to make a difference noise-wise--I've got these on the front of my Falcon. Go for long-term durability, and avoid drilled rotors if you can.


Speaking of rotors, I read recently that Drilled and Slotted rotors are louder then stock. Anybody heard of this before? I still plan on D/S rotors but want to be prepared for any additional noise

[FireBeater]

Thanks for the input. I was also going to ask about the difference between D/S and Drilled. I see some of the Vettes only have slotted.



If you hammer the brakes with drilled rotors, they will buzz; granted, I've only had them on motorcycles and mountain bikes. Slotted only doesn't seem to make a difference noise-wise--I've got these on the front of my Falcon. Go for long-term durability, and avoid drilled rotors if you can.

[FireBeater]

I enjoy cars so much and I know it is in my blood. I can not seem to shake it, even after 20 years. So I know that one day I will have Level V ride all pro. This first Level will still be fun and a great platform to build on. Thanks for the note.



I had a '68 Firebird about 20 years ago--it was a fun car, and had way too much motor (hotrodded 400) for me at the time. One hysterical moment was getting the throttle stuck in the middle of a city block after doing what was intended to be a short burnout: wrong. At any rate, you're smart in going for stages, rather than the whole "perfect" thing at once. I've been working on my Falcon since 2010 (bought it after it sat in someone's driveway for 10 years), and since then, it's had three engines, three transmissions, and 2.75 or so suspensions. The third motor (new!) has to come back out now, due to a bad pilot bearing--the evolution has been fun, but a breather is needed now and then. This is why it's great to be able to flog the snot out of the car during/between stages. Try to control the obsession...

[1965gp]

Looks lie a fun build. I still have my car from high school (20 yrs ago) and am so glad I didn't part with it! Now it is pretty much restored and my favorite car to drive..

[FireBeater]

So the bird is back on the ground. With pivot of the front suspension and lowering I think I resolved some of the fender to tire space. I think I will have more for the turns.

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[rohrt]

So the bird is back on the ground. With pivot of the front suspension and lowering I think I resolved some of the fender to tire space. I think I will have more for the turns.



How did you change to center the wheel better?

[FireBeater]

So I might not use the correct terms, but this is what I see has changed. I tried to illustrate the change in these pictures. The first picture is the old fenders, with new wheels and tires. Old body mounts, springs, bushings, etc, and spring spacers. Now notice the height and positioning of the wheel alignment and fitment. The center cap of the wheel being a visual reference. The next picture is with the new fenders, body mounts, new lowered springs and new control arms. I am lead to believe the lowering by the springs and shifting angle of the spindle by the control arm positioning all help aid in the new positioning of the tire reducing the space to rub. I still want to get button bolts to provide additional clearance.

Once I get out out on the road soon, I will let you know of the TRUTH about the tire to fender clearance.


How did you change to center the wheel better?

Original Position
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NEW Position
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[FireBeater]

It is time to tackle this beast.

Plans include new shocks, new rear sway bar, new springs, and swap to disc.

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Stay tuned.

[Buryingthesun]

as always its nice to see progress!

[FireBeater]

Ok guys, This is funny to me, I pulled out the rear leaf springs and you can see the difference between the stock, and the Hotchkis TVS springs. The funny part to me was when I pulled off the shocks the rear end dropped sooooo low. The old stock springs were like cooked spaghetti noodles. It was a striking difference compared to the Hotchkis once installed. They stayed true to there form even after the weigh from the rear end was added.

I installed the rear sway bar brace, but no pictures.

I still need to install the sway bar and other odds and ends. I will keep you posted.

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[FireBeater]

One more thing, to add. The Hotchkis TVS kit included all new mounting hardware. This is cool because it was real Beefy! Leaf spring bolts were upgrade from like 3/8's to 5/8's, same with u-bolts. The front mounting perches had the correct fit bolt clips, but were built to take a beating. I did not capture any pictures of the differences but all I can say is Hotchkis built this this to last. Thanks Hotchkis!

[firebob]

Looks like you're doing a great job. One step at a time. That's one thing that a lot of guys try to do everything at once and get frustrated and eventually give up because they get so ovewhelmed they can't see the end of the project.
I've had my 69 for 34 yrs. It sat in the garage for around 9 years while my kids grew up and when I decided to build a hot rod with my son I figured I better finish mine first. It's funny when you look back through the years and see how it has always been with us. My daughter remembers getting pulled over when she was in her car seat and I delivered her to her wedding ceremony in it. Of course, I raced it at Laguna Seca two days later. Over the years it's had 4 different paint jobs, 5 different motors and all along I just upgraded things as I went along. Never really had the money to spend on it because it was just the fun car. I started out autocrossing back in the 80s so I always kind of had an idea what I wanted it to be(still working on it). Occasionally you get side tracked but it's good to keep focus.
Some recent pics. Just replaced the original springs for the first time in 45yrs.

[FireBeater]

Thanks for the encouragement! I think it is awesome that you have kept your car for 34 years. That is some solid love for your car. I hope to do the same. I think it is awesome that you can say you have had your daughter in a baby sit and then be able to say you took her to her wedding in the same car. That is just straight up awesome.

That engine looks like it can crank out some Horsepower!!!

Whats up with the different Rocker arms? Is that the 1:5 and 1:65 ratio's?

Also, tell me more about your rear panhard bar. is that stock or a creation of your own? I have not seen anything like that before, because it looks stock.





Looks like you're doing a great job. One step at a time. That's one thing that a lot of guys try to do everything at once and get frustrated and eventually give up because they get so ovewhelmed they can't see the end of the project.
I've had my 69 for 34 yrs. It sat in the garage for around 9 years while my kids grew up and when I decided to build a hot rod with my son I figured I better finish mine first. It's funny when you look back through the years and see how it has always been with us. My daughter remembers getting pulled over when she was in her car seat and I delivered her to her wedding ceremony in it. Of course, I raced it at Laguna Seca two days later. Over the years it's had 4 different paint jobs, 5 different motors and all along I just upgraded things as I went along. Never really had the money to spend on it because it was just the fun car. I started out autocrossing back in the 80s so I always kind of had an idea what I wanted it to be(still working on it). Occasionally you get side tracked but it's good to keep focus.
Some recent pics. Just replaced the original springs for the first time in 45yrs.

[captainofiron]

Thanks for the encouragement! I think it is awesome that you have kept your car for 34 years. That is some solid love for your car. I hope to do the same. I think it is awesome that you can say you have had your daughter in a baby sit and then be able to say you took her to her wedding in the same car. That is just straight up awesome.

That engine looks like it can crank out some Horsepower!!!

Whats up with the different Rocker arms? Is that the 1:5 and 1:65 ratio's?

Also, tell me more about your rear panhard bar. is that stock or a creation of your own? I have not seen anything like that before, because it looks stock.

+1 on the panhard
I have never seen one used with Leafs, since the leafs usually keep the axle centered

[rickpaw]

Nice work on the Firebird, Firebeater.


+1 on the panhard
I have never seen one used with Leafs, since the leafs usually keep the axle centered

Actually leaf spring can and will allow side to side movement of the axle during hard cornering. Panhard bar will keep it from happening.

[FireBeater]

Thanks Tu!

I never knew the leaf spring could go side to side. I did see once that a Corvette rear wheels can move out of place under HARD acceleration, and that solid bushings can help with it.

Do you know if they were stock? I have not seen the panhard before on the Birds.



BTW. I read through you string, and I really like your car. Nice work. I hope to put in a LS one day.


Nice work on the Firebird, Firebeater.



Actually leaf spring can and will allow side to side movement of the axle during hard cornering. Panhard bar will keep it from happening.

[FireBeater]

Delayed!

So I got the disc brakes on the rear end passenger side. The kit worked out well. I put in different shims to make the bracket fit correctly.

For some reason the drums looked big like, perhaps it is because I have always seen my bird with drums. When I put the discs on the back they looks small. They are stock type discs and I think they will get the job done. I opted for the parking brake package.

I am delayed on one driver side. You can see here that the passenger side is assembled, but notice the studs are barely out the other side. I read in the past that some of the rear disc brakes move the rear wheel out due to the thicker rotors vs. drums. Well that happened to me. I can not even mount the rear wheels on because of not enough thread to grab. I will have to get new rear stud.

Oh well, gives me something else to do and have fun doing.

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[FireBeater]

Had time this weekend to install the new wheel studs. They look good and they are long enough for me to get the wheels mounted back on the car.

I used the old hammer them out method, which was really not hard at all. Then to get them in I used a few washers and an old wheel nut. I did position something in between the studs so that it would not spin.

Now onto getting the emer brake hooked up.

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[Barrrf]

Garage built rides are my favorite. Looking forward to more updates on this build!

[captainofiron]

Nice work on the Firebird, Firebeater.



Actually leaf spring can and will allow side to side movement of the axle during hard cornering. Panhard bar will keep it from happening.

I didnt think leafs would allow enough lateral movement to make someone go through the effort to get a panhard bar set up. Interesting

I would think that the leaf would roll first than flex side to side

[Gil]

Nice rear disc brake kit & nice looking car !
Have already an "home made" kit on mine from previous owner, with BMW 5 Touring front discs & French Citroën XM calipers...
Not very American Spirit but works very well
Gil

[expensivehobby22]

Hey there,

Great thread. My bird is in similar shape so it's nice to see you making progress with yours.

[rickpaw]

I didnt think leafs would allow enough lateral movement to make someone go through the effort to get a panhard bar set up. Interesting

I would think that the leaf would roll first than flex side to side

I know it can move at least 1/4". The clearance between the rear pass wheel/tail pipe on my car is 1/4", and you can see the witness mark on the pipe where the tire rubbed.

[captainofiron]

I know it can move at least 1/4". The clearance between the rear pass wheel/tail pipe on my car is 1/4", and you can see the witness mark on the pipe where the tire rubbed.

just curious, but is the exhaust pipe hard mounted?

[rickpaw]

just curious, but is the exhaust pipe hard mounted?Yes.

[FireBeater]

Hey Pro-Touring,

Thanks for the notes. Not much advancement going on. I bleed the brakes and got them working. I have a soft pedal. I need to get that worked out soon.

I ran into a BIG problem. I went for a drive and the front passengers side is rubbing. I thought I had it worked out. Totally BUMMED about it.

I created some clearance by with a BFH. That helped some, but the out fender on the passenger side is now where the rubbing is mainly occuring. I tried a few other tricks and nothing.

Any body have any ideas?

I might have to swap out the 18x8 wheels to 17x7.

[68firebird]

Hey Pro-Touring,

Thanks for the notes. Not much advancement going on. I bleed the brakes and got them working. I have a soft pedal. I need to get that worked out soon.

I ran into a BIG problem. I went for a drive and the front passengers side is rubbing. I thought I had it worked out. Totally BUMMED about it.

I created some clearance by with a BFH. That helped some, but the out fender on the passenger side is now where the rubbing is mainly occuring. I tried a few other tricks and nothing.

Any body have any ideas?

I might have to swap out the 18x8 wheels to 17x7.

ah, that sucks! might be better off swapping to the 17x7 if you can afford it, but be sure that will definitely cure your problem.

[lucky13firebird]

Might be cause those wheels are a slight negative offset. I have 255 35 18 with a 18x8.5 wheel on the front of my 68 firebird and no rubbing issues. I have a 10mm positive offset...

[FireBeater]

I picked up one wheel, it is a 15x7 with 4 inch BS. for super cheap. Share you thoughts!

I am going to get a tire mounted on it with the approximate size height that I plan to run on 17x7. This should give me the best picture of what it would turn out to be with out spending all the money.

Plus, the 15x7 would then become my spare tire.


ah, that sucks! might be better off swapping to the 17x7 if you can afford it, but be sure that will definitely cure your problem.

[FireBeater]

Might be cause those wheels are a slight negative offset. I have 255 35 18 with a 18x8.5 wheel on the front of my 68 firebird and no rubbing issues. I have a 10mm positive offset...

I think if I had more backspacing / offset, I would be set. The stock wheel of 195/70 14 is about 24.4 inches, and the 225/40 18 I have on it is 25.1 inches tall. that is only .25 bigger radius. not much to rub, so it has to be the BS.

[FireBeater]

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So it has been a LONG time since I posted some progress. I have been working on the Bird even though I have not posted.

I will try to get you updates.

Last time I had a wheel issue. I still have a wheel issue. I have a work around. I found a "spare" wheel on Craigslist and found a spare tire and got it mounted. So No more rubbing.

I know pretty lame of three wheels and on odd one. But at least I can drive it and work out the bugs, bumps and other noises when I drive. I just can not let go of the money for a wheel.

I am still hoping to "ALIGN" the subframe on the body to help remove some of the front tire rubbing. Also I hope to look at a few other options that people posted.

Here is my spare wheel.

[FireBeater]

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So since I had 4 wheel discs. I had to show them off. I did the painting of the calipers. I had the paint from a while back, but just needed to perform the job.


I also cleaned the rear wheel housing and painted. I need to do a little more cleaning.

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[Justin@EntropyRad]

Love the garage build! How much are you rubbing? Whats the offset of the front wheels? You might be able to have like 5mm shaved off the back pad of the wheel(depending on thickness) to acomodate, or get/borrow a fender roller to assist with that side

[FireBeater]

Love the garage build! How much are you rubbing? Whats the offset of the front wheels? You might be able to have like 5mm shaved off the back pad of the wheel(depending on thickness) to acomodate, or get/borrow a fender roller to assist with that side


I rub when going over bumps with a turn or a dip in the road with a turn.

When I go straight I am good with no rub.

Rub only happens when turning right, that is when the front of the wheel is out and the back of the wheel is in, and the outer side rubs.


How much does shaving the wheel cost?

[FireBeater]

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I took off the driver side door panel to clean it up and I found this junk in the door. It was just nasty to find years and years of leafs in the door.

I got it cleaned up and on to the next project.

[FireBeater]

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When I took of the door panel I opted to change the color on it.

the rest of my interior is black and it was green. There is a story behind it but not for now.

I have never painted the interior, but it worked out well,

I have another picture with it back in the car which I will post later.

[FireBeater]

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after the conversion to all disc I had a soft pedal. I checked the calipers and the lines for leaks. I bleed and bleed the brakes. I could not find the issue.

during the conversion I added in a new GM style brake valve.

I let the car sit for a few weeks and when I came back I found the leak. Out of the back of the brake valve was a very small leak. I simply tightened it up. no more leak. Now I have to deal with the paint that it screwed up.

[Gil]

Pedal feel is better now ? Brake setup looks nice
Did you change the broken lug stud in the rear ?
Gil

[Justin@EntropyRad]

I rub when going over bumps with a turn or a dip in the road with a turn.

When I go straight I am good with no rub.

Rub only happens when turning right, that is when the front of the wheel is out and the back of the wheel is in, and the outer side rubs.


How much does shaving the wheel cost?

Last time I had it done it was like $20-$25 per wheel

[FireBeater]

Pedal feel is better now ? Brake setup looks nice
Did you change the broken lug stud in the rear ?
Gil


pedal is much more solid now. I think I need to bleed one more time for any air bubbles trapped between my last bleed and finding the leak.

I recent pick up some new front rotors that I will be installing so I will do it all then.

[FireBeater]

that is not bad at all, and much less then destroying new tires. thanks

[expensivehobby22]

Your 68 reminds me of mine. Similar starting points, and similar aspirations. Keep up the good work.

[FireBeater]

I had time to clean up the rear axle housing. It looks so much better. I still need to clean up the rest of the floors.

I was really glad to have the axle cleaned so I could mount one of the last items form Hotchkis, The rear sway bar is now on. I am pumped and ready for a ride.


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[Gil]

I was really glad to have the axle cleaned so I could mount one of the last items form Hotchkis, The rear sway bar is now on. I am pumped and ready for a ride.


Cool !
I want one too...
Let us know how the rear feels on the road when you go driving
Gil

[FireBeater]

I received this at my door step the other day....

I hope to make some more progress soon and post more pictures.



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[HomeBuilt]

Loving this build! In hindsight I wish I had attacked my Chevelle in stages the same way you are doing so that I could actually be driving the car, but you know what they say hindsight is always 20/20! Good luck and keep moving forward!

[FireBeater]

Hey ProTouring,

It has been a long time since I have posted. Of course I am still checking out the site regularly. I like many of the builds going on right now.

I last received some parts and put them on the car. I ran into some issues of course. I will give you a run down of updates and later ask for your help with the issue I am having.

[FireBeater]

I finished up painting the front calipers. but things did not look right with the old rotors. I knew it was past due so I had the new rotors delivered from Jegs. I used stock rotors from Good Stuff detailing.

You can see the pictures below of before and after.

I learned something that I had no clue of before, this tells you that you will learn things the expensive way sometimes.

I like the rotors, they are nice but I did not get any outer or inner bearings with the rotors. Also I did not get the inner seal. That is all extra money. So after new calipers, rotors, brake hose, bearings, seals, pads I know I spent more than a kit. Sure I already had the spindles but I think I could have spent the extra couple hundred dollars for a big break kit and been better off for my end goal.

At this time I will be happy with what I have, because they work and look good.

If you look at earlier posts you will see me replace the drums to old used disc.

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end result of the full project of front brakes

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[FireBeater]

So a few things I do not like about old cars and with new technology that all can be resolved. Most of us on this site are not a pure restore. I am not a pure restore. I like and appreciate that work but my ride will be a mix of the old and the new.

One of my issues with old cars is the poor lighting. I do not like the dim front lights, so even though I have many other projects to do on my car, I had to resolve the driving lights issue.

I have for a long time, liked halo lights, even before they became cool and adopted onto many stock cars. I have thought about LED lighting for many years, just have not had the extra money to do it. I got a little at Christmas and went for it.

Still have many other thoughts in my head for more lighting, that will just take some time.

Here are some simple pictures of my front lights. I will get some with them light up. It uses a new H4 buld and the outer ring is LED Halo. It uses some type of light refaction as it only has 4 LEDs. You will see that more in the picture I post with the lights on.

I took the time to do the wiring correctly by installing a relay. Everything I read says the relay will help not draw so much power and produce a brighter light.

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[FireBeater]

Ok, guys, I got the pictures of the lights.

The driving lights still look yellow tin, but much better then stock lights. If you ever can not see the road than you need to update. You can get stock looking lights with new bulbs in them.

Awesome thing about these lights are I can now upgrade to HID lights or even the new LED Plasma bulbs.

Either way the H4 bulbs are way better then the stock.

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Also, I have the picture of the HALO glowing.

I think it looks awesome. It is a mix of the old and the new.

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yes you can see the chrome is pitted, and I plan on painting it body color. give me some time.....

[FireBeater]

So I told you I had a problem and here it is. I installed the Hotchkis tie rod sleeves. Very nice quality, solid and strong feeling. I also installed Right Stuff Detailing outer and inter tie rods. I was excited to have all new steering parts. They look good so I painted and installed them first on the driver side, and something did not look right. I then installed the passenger side. that is when I had serious problems. My car was serious Pigeon Toed!

I know a little angle is good for the direction and alignment of the car but this was NUTZ!. I do not have a picture yet.


Picture of the part installed. (do not mind that the tie rod sleeve was upside down)
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Picture of part un-installed and you can see the original on the bottom and new parts on top. I tried different equations with parts by mixing the old tie rod and the new outer/inner tie rods. Either way I go the new parts are longer than the old set up by about 1 inch. That changes my steering!
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I read on this site and others that guys had a similiar problem with the tie rods. They ended up putting on a nut, cutting off 1/4 to 1/2 of the end of the tie rod. well this would work if I use a stock tie rod sleeve. If I use the Hotchkis tie rod the whole thing will be still too long, as the sleeve itself is longer than the stock.

tell me what you guys think?

Also, why is the bottom inner tie rod have a bend in it, and the new once does not? It is supposed to be correct part.

[monteboy84]

I read on this site and others that guys had a similiar problem with the tie rods. They ended up putting on a nut, cutting off 1/4 to 1/2 of the end of the tie rod. well this would work if I use a stock tie rod sleeve. If I use the Hotchkis tie rod the whole thing will be still too long, as the sleeve itself is longer than the stock.

tell me what you guys think?

Also, why is the bottom inner tie rod have a bend in it, and the new once does not? It is supposed to be correct part.

You'll often find with aftermarket part suppliers that they take some 'liberties' when it comes to design of their components. The factory did things a certain way for specific reasons, that may or may not have been necessary or right. On occasion, aftermarket parts cure factory problems, on other occasions they create their own problems like what you're seeing here.

It looks to me like the source of your headache is the outer tie rod that's way too long. I'd go to NAPA and all of the other local parts stores and have them take parts out of the box to compare with your original for length, I think that's the only way you'll get the right stuff. Otherwise, Savitske offers Howe tie rod ends that are taller to improve your bump steer. Looks like $85 a pair but that might be each, I'd call him and check to be sure.

http://scandc.com/new/node/114

[FireBeater]

Thanks Monteboy84 for the feedback.

I agree with what you are saying about aftermarket parts. I did find some others out on the web that were shorter, but they were for a 1969 Firebird See the Classic link below but not much product info.

I bet I can contact these guys at your link below and get more information and size dimensions.

http://scandc.com/new/node/114

http://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/firebird/parts/es2003r.html


I will check it out and let you guys know.


anybody else have this issue? or feedback?

[Bad Bird]

I love these garage builds so much more than the big dollar shop builds. Keep up the good work!

[FireBeater]

So I am still reading pro-touring site regularly. I still drool over the hot cars out there and hope for the cars that are like mine to continue life. I have not posted in over a year and just like the others on the site, life happens. I was traveling to Mexico alot for work last year around my last post. Things changed, I am no longer going to Mexico every other week, instead my company offered me a new job and I was relocated from North Florida to the South Charlotte NC area. I am just across the boarder into SC and I love it here. Give me a shout out if you are in the area. This was a major task, we had lived in our home for 9+ years and my car had grown a new life from what it came home like to what it is now. It still has lots of work to be done but I am so very grateful I still have it. I spent many months selling off parts, tools and cool car stuff. The only way I was going to bring my stuff with me was by putting it into my Firebird. We had owned and had room. Now we are in a rental and have almost no garage. WOW that is lots of stuff that had to go because of the move. BUT prior to that I had to do a few things. I was working on striping the body, so I had to put that on hold. I was not going to have the car travel 3 southern states collecting water on bare metal. So it was sprayed a solid black. you can see the pictures below.128619128619128620128620

[FireBeater]

More stripping going on!
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[FireBeater]

Please remember I have hard working hands, not skilled hands.

I needed one color and coverage of paint on the body. I wanted to take the paint off to see how bad the body really is, and yup, it is bad. you can see some of the dents in the pictures.

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yes that is newspaper not professional painting paper. It got the job done.

[FireBeater]

after it was dried, and put back together. It waited for the trailer to take it away to a new big life adventure.

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[captainofiron]

very cool, hopefully my rust removal phase ends quickly so I can get to the fun stuff

[F-Body International]

Any updates on this build? Looks like a good build coming together.

[FireBeater]

Hey, I still have the Firebird. I have not done much on it over the past year. I was focused on work and getting settled in with the move to SC.

My awesome wife snapped this picture during the move. I left before her early in the morning but when she passed me on the highway she captured this moment.

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[FireBeater]

I did a generic version of brake lines in the past but now I picked up a full set of The Right Stuff Detailing brake lines. I am installing them now. I will let you know how it goes.

I am thinking of putting on a Holley Sniper EFI system. Any Pontiac engine people using them? Results? Any body using the system with out the timing control? Also, I am leaning toward a full new tank with in-tank pump. This will allow for easier migration to LS later on if I make it that far.

[Bennsb]

I went with a FiTech, the Holley Sniper looks nice. Unfortunately I'm a ways away from giving any operational feedback. I purchased an in-tank efi fuel tank from Tanks, Inc. thinking a 650 hp LT4 might be in the cards a decade from now... That pic is awesome, looks familiar:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/image_zpsgjbyxbgn-1.jpeg (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/bennsb/media/image_zpsgjbyxbgn.jpeg.html)

Great job so far, reading through has given me some motivation.

[gator68428]

Very cool. Just noticed this thread and that you were in north FL--that's where I am! I've had my Firebird for a good long time too and was a home built father son resto and my daily in high school back in 99 through 02 with parts exchanged between my brother's and I as well. I like to do it "my way" too! Great project. You're motivating me to finish my project thread. I only recently started it and am only up to about 2008, trying to tell whole story.

[FireBeater]

That looks to familiar! It is like a clone.

Once I am done with the brake lines and a few other catch up items, I will be looking at the EFI, but that will be within the next few months.

- - - Updated - - -


I went with a FiTech, the Holley Sniper looks nice. Unfortunately I'm a ways away from giving any operational feedback. I purchased an in-tank efi fuel tank from Tanks, Inc. thinking a 650 hp LT4 might be in the cards a decade from now... That pic is awesome, looks familiar:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/image_zpsgjbyxbgn-1.jpeg (http://s297.photobucket.com/user/bennsb/media/image_zpsgjbyxbgn.jpeg.html)

Great job so far, reading through has given me some motivation.


Default
That looks to familiar! It is like a clone.

Once I am done with the brake lines and a few other catch up items, I will be looking at the EFI, but that will be within the next few months.

[FireBeater]

Very cool. Just noticed this thread and that you were in north FL--that's where I am! I've had my Firebird for a good long time too and was a home built father son resto and my daily in high school back in 99 through 02 with parts exchanged between my brother's and I as well. I like to do it "my way" too! Great project. You're motivating me to finish my project thread. I only recently started it and am only up to about 2008, trying to tell whole story.

That is a sweet ride! I watched the video and man that is were I want to be with my Bird when done. We have a few tracks up here around Charlotte where I moved to.

[gator68428]

That is a sweet ride! I watched the video and man that is were I want to be with my Bird when done. We have a few tracks up here around Charlotte where I moved to.

Thanks yeah I love it and recently have found myself looking at money in increments of the cost of a Rival S tire (about $350 for a 315/30-18!). I think that means I have a problem. The thrill of the getting on the track will do that I suppose. Recently I've restrained myself from any big purchases and have mainly been scheming on what to do next.

What oil pan are you running? If you ever get it to a track make sure you get the canton baffled oil pan and move the PCV valve to a valve cover, and add an oil catch can to it. Also a good idea (which I don't have yet, but are on my list for next years mods) are an accusump and crankcase vacuum.