corvette c4 performance help

[silvermonte]

I kinda hate to post something like this but Im finding a major lack of decent threads on the internet that relate to helping the performance of the c4 corvettes. It seems when someone starts a thread in any of the vette forums about 95% of the time the reply's going something like keep it stock or you will ruin the value, or keep it the way it came from the factory because you cant improve a vette.

Im mainly looking for some info on clutch and flywheel choices, the dual mass flywheel is new ground for me and im converting from auto to 6 speed. I would also like some info on suspension stuff. Any help to some decent tech data to help keep from digging thru hundreds of dead end threads would be helpfull or at least direction to a good forum that isnt full of "corvette" people if you know what I mean.Thanks.

[Rod]

I read the post 3 times and still didn't see what the question was?

[silvermonte]

Sorry, Im looking for any place that has real tech threads, mainly towards manual transmissions and suspension for c4s.

[71RS/SS396]

Sorry, Im looking for any place that has real tech threads, mainly towards manual transmissions and suspension for c4s.

I would use early 4th gen Camaro parts for the 6 spd swap since your vette has a gen 1 sbc.
Danny Popp would be the guy I would talk to about suspension mods he's been modifying vette for a long time and is very helpful with information.

[Jim Nilsen]

You are at the right place to find answers, just give us better questions.

Ridetech just came out with new shocks and VetteBrakes always has good tech help if you call them.

I understand your dilema with Vette sites but you have to deal with it and ask questions that just get direct answers. Parts don't care about opinions but they sure dish them out when they fail.

As for your clutch, you have a sea of choices and it is all about $$$$$. Myself, I had to finally step up to a Quartermaster setup to get something that fits the space and will hold up to 500+HP.

Good luck

[Mustard_N_Catchup]

Ok, Unless you can find a good used DM flywheel, you'll need a SM aftermarket, but you will get rattle with the straight cut gears in a ZF6 speed. I see your car is an auto 96, but they're 2 different ZF6 speeds 89-mid 93 they had a black tag german made gear box, then mid 93-96 the had the blue tag box that was USA made. The blue tag is a little weaker, but quieter than a black tag box, but that isn't the difference. The blue and black tag use different size throw out bearings. When ordering a clutch make sure you remember what color tag box you have. Me and alot of other C4 guys really like the Fidanza line of flywheels, but clutches is a personal preference. I can say, full disk chatter less than the puck styles in these cars.

Your car being a factory auto will only have a Dana 36 rear( D44 in 6spd cars), you might want to think about upgrading that while you are in there. Plus all 6spd cars came 3.45 gears stock.

As for suspension...
https://banskimotorsports.com/C4_Rear_Suspensioin.html
Banski motorsports make the best rear setup period!

Global west makes delalum bushing for the front of the C4. SPC makes adjustable upper control arms.

I have a question few questions for you.

What suspension did you car come with? FE1, FE2, FX3, Z51, or Z52?

How extreme are you want to go with the car?

You can go with Doug Ripple Motorsports Coilover conversion, or Exotic Muscle CO conversion. You can change you FE1&2 springs to the stiffer Z51/Z07 spring and run a Double adjustable shock. You can run your soft springs with big ZR1/Z07 sway bars with the DA shocks(Thats what I am running). VBandP.com has a ton of good stuff for these cars.

As mentioned, Ridetech has a new single adjustable shock for our cars. Viking build a NICE set of Double adjustables(thats what I have). You can also have you factory Bilsteins rebuilt for about 125-175.00 each, depending on where you go.


Bonus, You have a 96, which has the factory J55 13" front brakes, which are great unless you really get serious with road courses.

[uxojerry]

The C4 corvette forum is still the best place to get info on modding your car. You just have to disregard all of the "keep it stock" opinions. I have a C2 corvette that is heavily modded and still use the forum for a lot of good information. Look for the C4 builds where guy's are building cars for road courses. Half my C2 is guts from a C4 so you are starting with a pretty good platform to start with.

Assuming you want to make some power, look at your rear differential to determine whether you have a D36 or D44. You will need a D44 for more than 400hp or so.

[silvermonte]

Thank you for the input guys. I guess Im used to this site where you get better and more direct input from people who actually work on theirs cars, it spoils you if you get used to it.

Mustard n Catchup:

Im installing a zf6 from a 95 so its the blue tag, I knew there was some things changed but was not aware of the throw out bearings. Ive been reading about what flywheel to buy. I got a package deal with this tranny and it comes with the dual mass flywheel and a clutch, but this tranny has 80k miles on it so I think I would rather go new. Only thing this tranny didnt come with is a drive shaft and the torque arm. From what I have read the 12lb aluminum flywheel is a bit to light for street use and the stock dual mass is 38lbs or something like that. It seems the sweet spot is the 24lb camaro flywheel and then pick you style of clutch and deal with the noise from the tranny.I guess the dual mass hid the noise and thats why its there.What ever I buy if I dont stick with the dual mass will have to be a flywheel / clutch kit because this is my first time doing a manual install and I really wont have anyone to teach me so I need to avoid as many possible chances to make mistakes as possible.

As for the dana 36 it will have to stay for the time. I have the cutlass in paint jail right now and Im in the middle of building the S10, so if the part isnt broke its not getting replaced. I only plan on doing auto-x with the car and DD it, so I have my fingers crossed the d36 wont break for a summer or two. I would love to go out on a road course but I dont see me doing that with my lack of safety gear, or at least out on the track at any decent speed, and with the new safety rules coming out I doubt the vette would pass any safety regs. The cutlass and the s10 are getting cages and this vette is more of a DD so it wont get a cage.

For the suspension package I have no idea what the car came with. How do I find out? I assume a build sticker is somewhere on the car and to look there. The car has 120k miles on it and I will be replacing the normal wear items like ball joints and anything else in the front because its all original and needs replaced, and the previous owner put some cheap air shocks on the car and thats why Im looking into getting something a bit better. This is where Im trying to find some good info and I will check out the sites you guys recommended. If Im going to replace something I have no problem spending a few extra bucks to get something better. I would like to run some coilovers and replace all the suspension bushings, but Ill have to do some more reading into that.

The motor runs just fine, so unless something goes horrible wrong with it will will stay stock. I know once I get the manual in I will have to figure out who can reflash my computer so that the speedo will work. Other then that I really dont even see me ever even putting on headers unless I can get some cheap and manage to get a few more mpg out of the car.

[Mustard_N_Catchup]

If you go with the F body stocker, you'll need to get 1/8th inch milled off it.

The SPID label is in the rear storage compartment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2013/12/2n060dj-1.jpg
One for my 95.

As long as you are not running slicks and launching at 4k rpm, your D36 should last a good while behind a stock engine.

http://www.corvettenutz.com/
Contact Shawn "Sparky" for your parts needs. He is a great guy and will treat you fair.

While you are redoing the front, make sure you check your rack. You check it buy sitting on flat ground and turning the wheels lock to lock, if it has any catches in its travel, start saving for a rack rebuild. Yes it is better to have your stocker redone or buy a new GM piece. If you need a rebuild, I have a good contact that is really good and fair.

Viking DA shocks will run you a little less than 700.00 to your door, same as Ridetech SA HQ shocks.

If have any questions, of need any other help, feel free to ask.

[FlyDoc]

as for a flywheel and clutch, I'm running a Stock '93 Stock LT1 with a Fidanza 13lb aluminum flywheel, and there stage 2 clutch. I like the performance boost of the aluminum, but with the light weight and sticky disk, I do get some chatter when feathering in traffic, but if I let about 2-3 car length before start to go and let out on the clutch with a some what of a purpose and give it some skinny peddle I have no issues. I have done this with cops beside & behind me I do get a look but have never been stopped, even late night from bar row. driving with aluminum is totally different than a steel one.
with a 36 I would think that you will be making a haz-mat spill.
good luck

[Mustard_N_Catchup]

I forgot to mention, Spec has their 21LB Billet flywheel also.

FlyDoc,
Is the Fidanza Stage 2, you have a puck style clutch? I've never ran their clutches, I've only ran Specs.

[FlyDoc]

I forgot to mention, Spec has their 21LB Billet flywheel also.

FlyDoc,
Is the Fidanza Stage 2, you have a puck style clutch? I've never ran their clutches, I've only ran Specs.

no I have a full pressure plate.
I think that they classify there clutch's as stage ....
1 = to oem
2 = performance / street / RV
3 = performance / race - I think this is where they start the puck type with 6 or 8 pucks
4 = full race 4 puck pressure plate
and each stage the clamping force increases.