Can any IGN Experts Identify this issue?

[obengston]

I have posted on another forum, but figure more eyes the better, someone may know..

Not 100% sure if this the correct section, but here goes.

As you can see some of the CAP buttons are discolored/corroded, as well inside the CAP the terminals are corroded with a small amount of build up, and some of the cap buttons are very clean copper.

I'm running a MSD 6AL, blaster ss coil, MSD distributor locked and controlled by the FAST 2.0 system. My timing is set at 36 deg, and i have a phasable rotor.

Very little run time on this set up, maybe 3-400 miles.

The spark plugs are not burnt, and appear clean.

Is there a issue here, and what could cause this?







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[sccacuda]

The green and white is corrosion and oxidation from moisture being trapped in the distributor cap/and or plug boot. Make sure the cap is venting, and if the distributor has a screen vent on the base, make sure it is clear with no debris. Dielectric grease on the terminals will help. Bottom line, your trapping moisture in the distributor and not giving it a place to vent.

[obengston]

Sounds good, same answer I also received from another forum, so its looking like a moisture thing so far..


The green and white is corrosion and oxidation from moisture being trapped in the distributor cap/and or plug boot. Make sure the cap is venting, and if the distributor has a screen vent on the base, make sure it is clear with no debris. Dielectric grease on the terminals will help. Bottom line, your trapping moisture in the distributor and not giving it a place to vent.

[Heleanor]

Yep, drill a hole in the cap if a vent doesn't exist. Dielectric in all the plug boots as well!

[obengston]

Well I drilled holes between each post on the cap, but seems this is a problem with MSD, might just order the FAST dist that goes with the Fast 2.0, but I just purchased this one.. The last MSD dis was pretty nasty on the inside when I replaced it with this one when I purchased the Fast 2.0..

[MonzaRacer]

OK so in may high energy ignitions you will get oxidation, especially if your getting moisture inside.
If I had my choice, I would simply replace the cap and rotor, if you want drill and tap the cap in convienent area, and install a fitting to hook to a vacuum source. Soldering the fitting shut then drilling a small hole say no bigger than 1/16" or smaller, then hook to a vacuum source.
The hole needs to be small enough to not mess with idle speed/mixture adjustments.
Now to help eleviate corrosion take a small amount of dielectric grease, rub it between your thumb and fore finger, then apply thin amount ts to all terminals including the carbon button.
It reduces corrosion AND on carbon button it reduces ignition noise in radios.
I prefer name brand ignition over "Autozone type" parts.
They used to have a real good red cap with brass terminals but lately for stock they suffice, for performance the leave a lot to be desired.
Personally I like Echlin caps and rotors. Just a dab of dielectric grease, rub each termi all and add to all boots and your good. Also don't forget to use antiseize on the plugs. I have seen three sets of heads with trashed by lack thereof and using high power ignitions.
Oh creating a vacuum in your distributor cap will allow the moisture to boil off quickly.
One thing to think about is drilling couple of small holes in bottom of distributor so as to reduce the possibility of high vacuum source sucking oil into distributor maybe run fitting andxhose to air cleaner also.