American
11-29-2013, 08:34 PM
Mechanically it's new front to back with the best of everything. Needs some sorting still... carb adjustment, rockers readjusted, timing reset after carb, coil overs and sway bars still need a bit of adjustment. Engine/trans probably have 100 miles since install.
I've done quite a bit to this car. Recently installed the new grille, carbon fiber frame braces...things like that. Engine/Trans done in early August 2012.
Highlights:
Color when new was Frost Green and was repaitned with Z-28 stripes, with the Dark Green interior, much of which is original.
Engine:
400 SB .030 bore 406 cu in
Parrallel decked
Align honed
Scat forged crank and I beam rods - balanced
KB hypereutectic flat top piston 10.7:1 with RPM 70cc heads
Comp roller cam .500/270
Roller lifters
Roller Rockers (1.5 on there now, I have a set of 1.6 Comp Cam roller rockers which need installing as the cam setup is too mild)
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads
Ceramic coated Hooker Headers
Ceramic coated Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock 750 carb
Mallory Ignition
New billet pulleys
Aluminum radiator and electric fan
ProTorque Mini Starter
Transmission:
ArtCarr built 2004R - up to 700HP
2400 RPM Stall converter
Tubular crossmember
BowTie Overdrives TV cable assembly
Custom SS braided cooler lines
Axle:
12 Bolt out of 70 Camaro
Narrowed to 69 specs
12110 USA Alloy Axles - Camaro 67-69, 8.875”, 30-Spline Kit
Auburn Posi
RAT-315K R&P INSTALL KIT 12-BLT CAR
SUM-741203 R/P GM 12 OEM 3.73 Gears
TA-1810 Chevy 12 Bolt Car Rear End Girdle
Suspension:
Front
QA1 GMP 14501 Coil over shocks with 450lb springs
Hellwig front sway bar PN 55708 - 1 1/8" tubular
Helix tubular control arms PN HEXCA15_42974
AFR 12.5:1 steering gearbox with billet end cap
HAL-7888-108 SHOCK BOLT KIT for the rear, didn't want to use old bolts.
HAL-7888-110 SPANNER WRENCH/THRUST BEARINGS, must have for the coil overs.
Rear
AFCO 20228RF 6 3/8" arch, 176lb leaf springs
QA1 Stocker Star Rear Shocks PN: TS802
Hellwig rear sway bar PN 55824 - 3/4" tubular
2.5" Flomaster system with X pipe
Wheels/Tires:
17x8 4.5 BS 245/40 Kuhmo
17x9.5 5.5 BS 275/40 Nitto 555
Brakes:
CPP 13" F & 12" R
Russell SS braided brake lines
It's not flawless by any means but is a very nice driver that has caused more than one wreck for some reason (no joke). Paint is 15+ years old... clear is spotty in a few places, few pockmarks, scratches...little stuff that most people never notice. It's a driver, not a show car...although it shows well.
The engine and trans... really every mechanical item, is brand new. No accidents that I know of and actually spoke with the second owner who knew the original owner (now deceased) out of Oklahoma. Mostly garaged it's whole life and certainly has been with me and it looks like it.
Body is very straight. Underside is very clean. All original body panels except the hood. Interior is stock and much of it original. OEM speedo, OER 8k tach, the rest is Autometer. Shifter is stock, I used a Shiftworks kit so the stock shifter would work with the 2004R OD... shift plate shows 1-2-3-D..etc.
It just really needs someone to fine tune and sort out any initial stuff. Quite frankly I've been dealing with some health issue over the last year+ and it's been collecting dust. I don't see me having time to deal with it any time in the near future. Carb is out of adjustment, timing probably too... valves definitely . I noticed awhile back it's not keeping the battery charged so I tested the alternator... tests ok, installed a new voltage regulator but haven't driven it enough to tell if that fixed it. I keep it on a trickle charger. New Interstate battery too. If that didn't fix the problem then I'd replace the alternator... probably go to a one wire. Not anything else it could be. Absolutely every other item mechanically is new/rebuilt with less than 500 miles.... suspension, brakes, rear end, driveshaft, trans, engine and everything under the hood.
Oh... Frigidaire compressor blows 58 degrees at the vents last I checked about 2 years ago.
All of the interior lights work... even the console lights. Radio is original, doesn't' work... could just be unhooked.. never really cared to fix it as I would typically have the windows down just enjoying the engine.
I can provide you with tons of pics, anything you want. I have stacks of paperwork to back everything up.
I might take a partial trade for a decent Toyota FJ40, 45, 55 or 60 up to around 10-12k.
Located in Fort Worth, Texas. Reply here or PM with contact info to discuss further. $32,500 OBO.
I've done quite a bit to this car. Recently installed the new grille, carbon fiber frame braces...things like that. Engine/Trans done in early August 2012.
Highlights:
Color when new was Frost Green and was repaitned with Z-28 stripes, with the Dark Green interior, much of which is original.
Engine:
400 SB .030 bore 406 cu in
Parrallel decked
Align honed
Scat forged crank and I beam rods - balanced
KB hypereutectic flat top piston 10.7:1 with RPM 70cc heads
Comp roller cam .500/270
Roller lifters
Roller Rockers (1.5 on there now, I have a set of 1.6 Comp Cam roller rockers which need installing as the cam setup is too mild)
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads
Ceramic coated Hooker Headers
Ceramic coated Edelbrock intake
Edelbrock 750 carb
Mallory Ignition
New billet pulleys
Aluminum radiator and electric fan
ProTorque Mini Starter
Transmission:
ArtCarr built 2004R - up to 700HP
2400 RPM Stall converter
Tubular crossmember
BowTie Overdrives TV cable assembly
Custom SS braided cooler lines
Axle:
12 Bolt out of 70 Camaro
Narrowed to 69 specs
12110 USA Alloy Axles - Camaro 67-69, 8.875”, 30-Spline Kit
Auburn Posi
RAT-315K R&P INSTALL KIT 12-BLT CAR
SUM-741203 R/P GM 12 OEM 3.73 Gears
TA-1810 Chevy 12 Bolt Car Rear End Girdle
Suspension:
Front
QA1 GMP 14501 Coil over shocks with 450lb springs
Hellwig front sway bar PN 55708 - 1 1/8" tubular
Helix tubular control arms PN HEXCA15_42974
AFR 12.5:1 steering gearbox with billet end cap
HAL-7888-108 SHOCK BOLT KIT for the rear, didn't want to use old bolts.
HAL-7888-110 SPANNER WRENCH/THRUST BEARINGS, must have for the coil overs.
Rear
AFCO 20228RF 6 3/8" arch, 176lb leaf springs
QA1 Stocker Star Rear Shocks PN: TS802
Hellwig rear sway bar PN 55824 - 3/4" tubular
2.5" Flomaster system with X pipe
Wheels/Tires:
17x8 4.5 BS 245/40 Kuhmo
17x9.5 5.5 BS 275/40 Nitto 555
Brakes:
CPP 13" F & 12" R
Russell SS braided brake lines
It's not flawless by any means but is a very nice driver that has caused more than one wreck for some reason (no joke). Paint is 15+ years old... clear is spotty in a few places, few pockmarks, scratches...little stuff that most people never notice. It's a driver, not a show car...although it shows well.
The engine and trans... really every mechanical item, is brand new. No accidents that I know of and actually spoke with the second owner who knew the original owner (now deceased) out of Oklahoma. Mostly garaged it's whole life and certainly has been with me and it looks like it.
Body is very straight. Underside is very clean. All original body panels except the hood. Interior is stock and much of it original. OEM speedo, OER 8k tach, the rest is Autometer. Shifter is stock, I used a Shiftworks kit so the stock shifter would work with the 2004R OD... shift plate shows 1-2-3-D..etc.
It just really needs someone to fine tune and sort out any initial stuff. Quite frankly I've been dealing with some health issue over the last year+ and it's been collecting dust. I don't see me having time to deal with it any time in the near future. Carb is out of adjustment, timing probably too... valves definitely . I noticed awhile back it's not keeping the battery charged so I tested the alternator... tests ok, installed a new voltage regulator but haven't driven it enough to tell if that fixed it. I keep it on a trickle charger. New Interstate battery too. If that didn't fix the problem then I'd replace the alternator... probably go to a one wire. Not anything else it could be. Absolutely every other item mechanically is new/rebuilt with less than 500 miles.... suspension, brakes, rear end, driveshaft, trans, engine and everything under the hood.
Oh... Frigidaire compressor blows 58 degrees at the vents last I checked about 2 years ago.
All of the interior lights work... even the console lights. Radio is original, doesn't' work... could just be unhooked.. never really cared to fix it as I would typically have the windows down just enjoying the engine.
I can provide you with tons of pics, anything you want. I have stacks of paperwork to back everything up.
I might take a partial trade for a decent Toyota FJ40, 45, 55 or 60 up to around 10-12k.
Located in Fort Worth, Texas. Reply here or PM with contact info to discuss further. $32,500 OBO.